Grow Catmint Plant

Grow catmint plant easily with this complete guide covering everything from site selection and planting to ongoing care and propagation. Discover why this drought-tolerant perennial is perfect for beginners and pollinator gardens alike.

If you want a perennial that practically takes care of itself while putting on a months-long flower show, it is time to grow catmint plant in your garden. This tough, beautiful herb goes by the botanical name Nepeta and has earned a devoted following among gardeners who appreciate low-maintenance beauty. Unlike its cousin catnip, which sends felines into a frenzy, catmint offers ornamental value with aromatic gray-green foliage and clouds of lavender-blue flowers that bloom from late spring through fall.

I first discovered catmint when I moved into a house with a baking-hot, dry front yard where nothing else seemed to thrive. A neighbor handed me a division of ‘Walker’s Low,’ and that single plant transformed the space. Within two seasons, it formed a billowing mound three feet across, buzzing with bees from dawn to dusk. The best part? I barely watered it after the first month. That experience taught me why so many gardeners consider catmint a backbone plant for sunny, difficult spots.

Key Takeaways

• Sun lovers: Catmint thrives in full sun with at least six hours of direct light daily for the best blooms and compact growth.
• Well-drained soil is essential: These plants hate wet feet and will rot in heavy clay or poorly draining areas.
• Drought tolerant once established: After the first growing season, catmint needs minimal watering and handles dry spells beautifully.
• Shear after first bloom: Cutting plants back by half after the initial flush encourages a second wave of flowers and tidy shape.
• Divide every few years: Splitting clumps in spring or fall rejuvenates older plants and gives you free new starts.
• Deer and rabbit resistant: The aromatic foliage naturally repels browsing animals, making it a low-maintenance choice.
• Pollinator magnet: Bees, butterflies, and beneficial insects flock to the lavender-blue flower spikes all season long.

Quick Answers to Common Questions

When is the best time to plant catmint?

Spring and early fall are ideal. Spring gives roots all season to establish. Fall works in zones 5+ if planted six weeks before ground freeze.

How often should I water established catmint?

Rarely. After the first year, catmint is drought tolerant. Water only during extreme dry spells. Overwatering causes root rot.

Why is my catmint flopping open in the middle?

Too much shade, rich soil, overwatering, or lack of shearing. Ensure full sun, lean soil, and shear by half after first bloom.

Does catmint spread aggressively?

Hybrid varieties like ‘Walker’s Low’ are sterile and clump-forming. Species types may self-seed. Deadhead to prevent volunteers.

Can I grow catmint in containers?

Yes. Use a 12-inch pot with gritty, well-draining mix. Water more frequently than in-ground plants. Fertilize lightly in spring.

Getting to Know Catmint

What Is Catmint Exactly

Catmint belongs to the mint family, Lamiaceae, which explains its square stems and aromatic leaves. The genus Nepeta contains roughly 250 species, but only a handful are commonly grown in gardens. Most garden catmints are hybrids or selections of Nepeta x faassenii or Nepeta racemosa. These plants form mounding clumps of small, scalloped leaves topped by spikes of tubular flowers in shades of blue, purple, pink, or white.

The name “catmint” can cause confusion. True catnip (Nepeta cataria) contains high levels of nepetalactone, the compound that drives cats wild. Ornamental catmints have much less of this compound. Your cat might sniff or rub against them, but they will not destroy the planting. This distinction matters if you have neighborhood cats that treat gardens as playgrounds.

Popular Varieties to Consider

‘Walker’s Low’ remains the gold standard for good reason. Named Perennial Plant of the Year in 2007, it grows 24 to 30 inches tall and wide with deep lavender-blue flowers. Despite the name, it is not particularly low-growing. The name honors the garden where it was discovered, not its height.

‘Cat’s Meow’ and ‘Cat’s Pajamas’ are newer Proven Winners introductions bred for tighter, more compact habits. ‘Cat’s Meow’ reaches 17 to 20 inches with sky-blue flowers. ‘Cat’s Pajamas’ stays even smaller at 12 to 14 inches, making it perfect for container edges or the front of borders.

‘Six Hills Giant’ is an older, larger cultivar reaching 36 inches tall. It makes a bold statement but can flop without support. ‘Blue Wonder’ and ‘Dropmore’ offer reliable mid-sized options around 18 to 24 inches. For something different, ‘Pink Cat’ and ‘Snowflake’ provide pink and white flowers respectively, though they may be less vigorous than the blue forms.

Why Gardeners Love This Plant

The list of virtues is long. Catmint is deer resistant, rabbit resistant, drought tolerant once established, and rarely bothered by pests or diseases. It blooms for months with minimal deadheading. The flowers attract bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. The foliage stays attractive all season, forming a neat mound that suppresses weeds. It works in cottage gardens, xeric landscapes, herb gardens, and formal borders alike.

Perhaps the greatest appeal is flexibility. You can grow catmint plant specimens as edging along a path, mass them on a slope for erosion control, tuck them into a rock garden, or plant them in containers. They play well with roses, hiding bare canes while complementing the blooms. They pair beautifully with ornamental grasses, coneflowers, black-eyed Susans, and salvias.

Choosing the Right Spot

Sun Requirements

Full sun means at least six hours of direct sunlight daily. Catmint will survive in part shade, but the plants become leggy, flower production drops dramatically, and the stems tend to flop open in the center. In hot southern climates, a touch of afternoon shade can prevent leaf scorch, but morning sun is non-negotiable for good performance.

If you only have part shade, consider Nepeta subsessilis varieties like ‘Cool Cat’ or ‘Prelude,’ which tolerate more shade than other species. Even these will flower better with more light.

Soil Preferences

Sharp drainage is the single most important soil factor. Catmint evolved in rocky, gritty soils of Europe and Asia. Heavy clay that stays wet after rain will rot the crown and roots. If your soil is clay, amend generously with coarse sand, fine gravel, or expanded shale before planting. Raised beds or mounded planting areas also improve drainage.

Soil fertility should be low to moderate. Rich soil produces lush, floppy growth with fewer flowers. Avoid planting in heavily fertilized beds or where you regularly apply compost. A lean, slightly alkaline to neutral pH (6.5 to 7.5) is ideal. If your soil is very acidic, add lime at planting time.

Space and Airflow

Give each plant room to reach its mature width without crowding. Most varieties need 18 to 30 inches of space. Good air circulation prevents fungal issues like powdery mildew, which can occasionally appear in humid climates or crowded plantings. Space plants at the wider end of their range if your summers are humid.

Planting Your Catmint

When to Plant

Spring and early fall are the best planting times. Spring planting gives roots all season to establish before winter. Fall planting works well in zones 5 and warmer, provided you plant at least six weeks before the ground freezes. Summer planting is possible but requires diligent watering during establishment.

Container-grown plants from nurseries can go in the ground anytime the soil is workable. Bare-root divisions from friends or mail-order sources should be planted promptly upon arrival, keeping roots moist until they are in the ground.

Step-by-Step Planting Process

Start by watering the plant thoroughly in its pot a few hours before planting. This reduces transplant shock and makes the root ball easier to handle. Dig a hole twice as wide as the container but no deeper. You want the crown (where stems meet roots) to sit at the same level it was in the pot, or very slightly higher to allow for settling.

If your soil needs amendment, mix the native soil with your drainage material at a ratio of roughly two parts native soil to one part amendment. Do not amend the bottom of the hole only. This creates a “bathtub effect” where water collects in the amended zone.

Gently remove the plant from its pot. If roots are circling the bottom, tease them apart with your fingers or make a few vertical cuts with a knife. This encourages outward growth. Place the plant in the hole, backfill with your soil mix, and firm gently around the roots. Water deeply to settle the soil and eliminate air pockets.

Apply a thin layer of mulch — gravel, crushed stone, or pine bark — keeping it away from the crown. Organic mulches like wood chips can hold too much moisture against the stems in wet climates. Gravel mulch reflects heat and improves drainage right at the crown, which catmint appreciates.

Container Planting Tips

Catmint grows beautifully in pots, which is great news if you have heavy clay soil or want to enjoy it on a patio. Choose a container at least 12 inches wide and deep with drainage holes. Use a gritty potting mix designed for succulents or Mediterranean herbs, or make your own by mixing two parts quality potting soil with one part perlite or coarse sand.

Container plants need more frequent watering than in-ground plants. Check daily in hot weather. Fertilize lightly once in spring with a slow-release balanced fertilizer. Over-fertilizing containers leads to the same floppy, flower-poor growth as rich garden soil.

Caring for Established Plants

Watering Wisdom

The first growing season is critical. Water deeply once or twice a week during dry spells, enough to moisten the root zone to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. Frequent shallow watering encourages shallow roots that cannot withstand drought. After the first year, established plants rarely need supplemental water except during extreme drought.

Signs of underwatering include wilting that does not recover by morning and leaf edges turning brown. Signs of overwatering include yellowing lower leaves, mushy stems, and a general lack of vigor. When in doubt, err on the dry side. Catmint recovers from drought much better than from root rot.

Fertilizing — Less Is More

In most gardens, catmint needs no fertilizer at all. An annual top-dressing of compost in early spring is plenty. If your soil is very poor, a light application of balanced slow-release fertilizer (such as 10-10-10) at half the recommended rate in spring is acceptable. Never fertilize after midsummer. Late-season growth will not harden off before winter.

Container plants are the exception. Nutrients leach out with frequent watering. Apply a slow-release fertilizer in spring and perhaps a half-strength liquid feed in early summer if growth seems weak.

The Shearing Secret

This is the single most impactful maintenance task. After the first heavy flush of bloom fades — usually late June to early July — shear the entire plant back by one-third to one-half. Use hedge shears or a string trimmer for large plantings. This looks brutal but triggers fresh, compact growth and a second (sometimes third) bloom cycle that continues until frost.

Without shearing, plants become woody at the base, flop open in the center, and flower production declines. The foliage can also look tired and dusty by late summer. Shearing rejuvenates everything. In long-season climates, you can shear again after the second flush if plants get rangy.

If you prefer a more natural look or want to provide winter interest and seed for birds, skip the final shearing of the season. Let the last flush go to seed. Cut the whole plant back to 3 to 4 inches in late winter or early spring before new growth emerges.

Winter Care

Catmint is hardy in USDA zones 3 through 8, with some varieties pushing zone 9. In cold zones, the crown benefits from a light layer of evergreen boughs or straw after the ground freezes. This prevents freeze-thaw cycles from heaving the plant. Do not apply heavy mulch directly over the crown, as this traps moisture.

In wet winter climates, the biggest threat is not cold but rot. Ensure excellent drainage. Planting on a slight mound or in a raised bed helps. Some gardeners in the Pacific Northwest treat catmint as a short-lived perennial, replacing plants every three to four years when they decline from winter wet.

Propagating and Dividing

Division — The Easy Way

Division is the fastest, most reliable propagation method. Do it in early spring as new growth emerges, or in early fall at least six weeks before frost. Water the plant well the day before. Dig up the entire clump, going wide to get as many roots as possible. Shake or wash off excess soil so you can see the root structure.

Using a sharp spade, knife, or even an old pruning saw, cut the clump into sections. Each division needs several healthy shoots and a good root mass. Discard the woody, dead center of old clumps. Replant divisions immediately at the same depth, water well, and mulch lightly. They may look sad for a week but will bounce back quickly.

Plan to divide every three to four years. Signs it is time include a dead center, reduced flowering, and the plant outgrowing its space. Division rejuvenates the plant and gives you free plants to expand your garden or share with friends.

Stem Cuttings

Softwood cuttings taken in late spring or early summer root easily. Choose non-flowering stems 4 to 6 inches long. Cut just below a leaf node. Remove lower leaves, leaving two or three pairs at the top. Dip the cut end in rooting hormone (optional but helpful). Insert into a pot of moist perlite, vermiculite, or a 50-50 mix of peat and sand.

Cover with a clear plastic bag or dome to maintain humidity. Place in bright, indirect light. Roots form in two to three weeks. Gently tug to check for resistance. Once rooted, pot up into individual containers and grow on before planting out.

Growing from Seed

Species catmints come true from seed. Hybrids like ‘Walker’s Low’ do not — seedlings will vary. If you want to experiment, sow seeds indoors 8 to 10 weeks before the last frost. Barely cover with soil; light aids germination. Keep at 65 to 70°F. Germination takes 10 to 20 days. Transplant seedlings to individual pots when they have two sets of true leaves. Harden off and plant out after frost danger passes.

Direct sowing in the garden is possible in spring but less reliable. Seeds are tiny and easily washed away or eaten. If you try it is a cold frame or protected nursery bed works better.

Common Problems and Solutions

Flopping and Open Centers

This is the number one complaint. Causes include too much shade, rich soil, overwatering, over-fertilizing, or simply the natural habit of larger varieties. The fix: ensure full sun, lean soil, and shear after the first bloom. For tall varieties like ‘Six Hills Giant,’ install grow-through supports or peony rings in early spring before growth gets tall. Shearing twice a season keeps plants shorter and sturdier.

Powdery Mildew

This fungal disease appears as a white powdery coating on leaves, usually in late summer during humid weather. It is rarely fatal but unsightly. Prevention: space plants for good airflow, avoid overhead watering, and choose resistant varieties. ‘Walker’s Low’ and ‘Cat’s Meow’ show good resistance. If mildew appears, remove affected leaves and spray with a homemade baking soda solution (1 tablespoon baking soda plus 1 teaspoon horticultural oil per gallon of water) or a commercial fungicide labeled for ornamentals.

Root and Crown Rot

Yellowing, wilting, and sudden plant death in wet conditions point to rot caused by Phytophthora or Pythium fungi. Once established, rot is usually fatal. Prevention is everything: sharp drainage, no mulch against the crown, no low spots where water collects. If you lose a plant to rot, do not replant catmint in the same spot for at least two years. Solarize the soil or plant a resistant species like yarrow or Russian sage instead.

Aphids and Spider Mites

These pests occasionally appear but rarely cause serious damage. Aphids cluster on new growth in spring. Blast them off with a strong jet of water or spray with insecticidal soap. Spider mites show up in hot, dry weather, causing stippled, bronzed leaves. Increase humidity with regular water sprays. Predatory insects usually keep both in check naturally.

Cat Damage

While ornamental catmint is far less attractive to cats than catnip, some determined felines will roll on young plants, breaking stems. Protect new plantings with a cage of chicken wire or twiggy branches for the first few weeks. Once established, the woody stems are less appealing. Sprinkling citrus peels or using commercial cat deterrents around the planting can help.

Design Ideas and Companion Planting

Classic Combinations

Catmint and roses are a timeless pairing. The soft gray-green foliage and blue flowers hide bare rose canes and complement every rose color from white to deep red. Plant catmint 18 inches from the rose base to avoid competition. ‘Walker’s Low’ works well with shrub roses. ‘Cat’s Pajamas’ suits miniature roses.

With ornamental grasses, catmint provides color contrast to the grassy texture. Try it with feather reed grass (Calamagrostis), fountain grass (Pennisetum), or little bluestem (Schizachyrium). The catmint blooms while grasses are still building foliage, then the grasses take center stage in fall.

In a pollinator garden, combine catmint with coneflowers (Echinacea), bee balm (Monarda), black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia), and salvias. The overlapping bloom times feed bees and butterflies from spring to frost. Add native milkweed for monarchs.

Edging and Borders

A row of catmint along a path or driveway creates a soft, fragrant edge that releases scent when brushed. Compact varieties like ‘Cat’s Pajamas,’ ‘Junior Walker,’ or ‘Blue Wonder’ stay neat without constant trimming. Space plants 12 to 15 inches apart for a continuous hedge effect.

Rock Gardens and Slopes

Catmint’s drought tolerance and spreading habit make it ideal for dry slopes and rock gardens. It cascades beautifully over retaining walls. Plant near rocks that absorb and radiate heat — the plant loves the extra warmth. Combine with sedums, creeping thyme, ice plant, and dwarf conifers.

Container Displays

In pots, catmint plays the “spiller” role in thriller-filler-spiller designs. Pair a tall grass or upright salvia as the thriller, a mounding annual like petunia or calibrachoa as filler, and catmint spilling over the edge. Use a large container (18 inches minimum) so the catmint does not dry out too fast.

Harvesting and Uses

Cut Flowers

Catmint makes a charming, informal cut flower. Harvest stems when about half the flowers on a spike are open. Cut in the morning after dew dries. Strip lower leaves and place immediately in cool water. Vase life is 5 to 7 days. The stems are somewhat delicate, so arrange in a supportive vase or use floral foam.

Herbal Uses

While not as potent as catnip, catmint leaves make a pleasant, mildly relaxing tea. Steep a tablespoon of fresh leaves (or a teaspoon dried) in a cup of boiling water for 5 to 10 minutes. The flavor is minty with floral notes. Some people use it as a culinary herb in salads, sauces, or as a garnish. The flowers are edible and pretty scattered on desserts or in summer drinks.

Traditionally, catmint tea was used for digestive upset, anxiety, and colds. Modern research on Nepeta species shows antimicrobial, antioxidant, and insect-repellent properties. However, pregnant women should avoid medicinal doses, and anyone on sedatives should consult a doctor before regular use.

Drying for Crafts

Harvest stems at peak bloom. Hang small bundles upside down in a dark, airy place. Once dry, the flowers hold their color well for months. Use in wreaths, potpourri, or sachets. The dried leaves retain fragrance and can be sewn into cat toys — though your cat may prefer the real catnip.

Troubleshooting Quick Reference

Plant Not Blooming

Check sun exposure first. Less than six hours equals fewer flowers. Next, consider age. Very young plants may not bloom heavily their first year. Old, undivided plants often bloom poorly — divide in spring. Excess nitrogen from nearby lawn fertilizer can also suppress flowers. Shearing at the wrong time (late summer) removes flower buds. Stop shearing by early August in most climates.

Yellow Leaves

Uniform yellowing of older leaves often means overwatering or poor drainage. Yellowing of new growth with green veins suggests iron deficiency in alkaline soil — apply chelated iron. Yellowing with brown crispy edges indicates underwatering or fertilizer burn. Random yellow spots may be spider mite damage — check leaf undersides.

Woody, Bare Center

This is natural aging. The plant is telling you it is time to divide. Dig in spring, discard the woody center, and replant the vigorous outer sections. Regular division every three to four years prevents this.

Spreading Too Aggressively

Some species, particularly Nepeta cataria (catnip) and Nepeta racemosa species types, self-seed readily. Deadhead faithfully after bloom to prevent seedlings. Hybrids like ‘Walker’s Low’ are sterile or nearly so and do not self-seed. If clumps spread outward beyond their allotted space, divide and remove excess sections.

Seasonal Care Calendar

Early Spring (March-April)

Cut back last year’s dead growth to 3 to 4 inches. Apply a thin layer of compost around the base. Divide overcrowded clumps. Plant new purchases. Water if dry.

Late Spring (May-June)

First flush of bloom begins. Monitor for aphids on new growth. Water new plantings regularly. Established plants need water only in drought.

Early Summer (Late June-July)

First bloom fades. Shear plants back by half. Water well after shearing to support regrowth. This is a good time to take cuttings.

Mid to Late Summer (August-September)

Second bloom cycle. Deadhead spent spikes if you want a tidier look, or leave for pollinators. Watch for powdery mildew in humid weather. Water containers daily in heat.

Fall (October-November)

Final bloom winds down. In zones 5 and warmer, early fall is a good division time. Stop fertilizing. Reduce watering as temperatures drop. Leave foliage standing for winter interest and crown protection.

Winter (December-February)

In cold zones, apply light winter mulch after ground freezes. In wet climates, ensure crowns are not waterlogged. Plan next year’s additions. Order bare-root plants for early spring shipping.

Final Thoughts

Few perennials give so much for so little effort. When you grow catmint plant varieties suited to your space, you gain months of color, a haven for pollinators, aromatic foliage, and a plant that asks only for sun and drainage in return. Whether you choose a classic like ‘Walker’s Low’ for a billowing border, a compact ‘Cat’s Pajamas’ for a pot by the front door, or a drift of ‘Six Hills Giant’ on a sunny slope, catmint delivers.

The keys to success are simple. Plant in full sun. Ensure sharp drainage. Water regularly the first season, then step back. Shear after the first bloom. Divide every few years. That is the entire recipe. No fussy pH requirements, no complex pruning regimes, no constant pest battles. Just a beautiful, reliable plant that makes you look like a skilled gardener with minimal effort.

If you have never grown catmint, start with one plant this spring. Put it in your toughest sunny spot — the one where the hose does not reach, where the soil is gritty, where other perennials have failed. Watch what happens. By midsummer, you will likely be planning where to put the divisions next year. That is the catmint effect. Once you experience it, you will wonder how you ever gardened without it.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is catmint the same as catnip?

No. Catnip (Nepeta cataria) contains high levels of nepetalactone that strongly attracts cats. Ornamental catmints have much less of this compound and are grown for flowers and foliage, not for feline entertainment.

What growing zones are suitable for catmint?

Most catmint varieties are hardy in USDA zones 3 through 8. Some tolerate zone 9 with afternoon shade. In zone 3, provide winter mulch after the ground freezes.

How do I prevent powdery mildew on catmint?

Plant in full sun with good air circulation. Space plants at mature width. Avoid overhead watering. Choose resistant cultivars like ‘Walker’s Low’ or ‘Cat’s Meow’.

Should I deadhead catmint flowers?

Shearing the whole plant back by half after the first bloom flush is more effective than individual deadheading. It triggers a second bloom and keeps plants compact.

Why did my catmint die over winter?

Winter wet is the usual killer, not cold. Heavy clay, low spots, or mulch against the crown trap moisture and rot roots. Ensure sharp drainage and plant on a slight mound.

Can I divide catmint in summer?

Spring and early fall are best. Summer division is stressful due to heat. If you must divide in summer, cut foliage back hard, water diligently, and provide temporary shade.