Catmints Flowering Plants Sun

Catmints flowering plants sun requirements are straightforward: these hardy perennials need at least six hours of direct sunlight daily to produce their signature lavender-blue blooms and aromatic foliage. With proper sun exposure, well-draining soil, and minimal maintenance, catmint rewards gardeners with months of color, pollinator activity, and drought-tolerant performance from late spring through fall.

If you have ever walked past a garden border in early summer and noticed a cloud of soft lavender-blue flowers buzzing with bees, chances are you were admiring catmint. These reliable perennials have earned their place in sunny gardens across the country, and for good reason. Catmints flowering plants sun gardens benefit from their long bloom season, aromatic foliage, and remarkable toughness. Whether you are a seasoned gardener or just starting your first perennial bed, understanding how to give catmint the sunlight it craves will set you up for years of low-maintenance beauty.

In this comprehensive guide, we will explore everything you need to know about growing catmint in full sun. From selecting the right variety for your space to mastering the art of the mid-season shear, you will learn practical tips that make the difference between a floppy, sparse plant and a dense mound of color. We will also cover soil preparation, watering strategies, companion planting ideas, and solutions to common problems. By the end, you will feel confident designing with catmint and keeping it thriving through every season.

Key Takeaways

• Full sun is essential: Catmints flowering plants sun exposure should be at least six hours daily for optimal bloom production and compact growth.
• Well-draining soil prevents root rot: These plants thrive in lean, sandy, or rocky soils and suffer in heavy clay or consistently wet conditions.
• Shearing after first bloom encourages rebloom: Cutting plants back by half after the initial flush promotes a second wave of flowers and tidy foliage.
• Catmint attracts beneficial pollinators: Bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds flock to the nectar-rich tubular flowers throughout the growing season.
• Deer and rabbit resistant: The aromatic, minty foliage naturally deters browsing mammals, making catmint ideal for unfenced gardens.
• Drought tolerant once established: Deep taproots allow mature plants to withstand dry spells, reducing watering needs significantly.
• Versatile design applications: Use catmint as edging, in mass plantings, rock gardens, or as a companion to roses and other sun-loving perennials.

Quick Answers to Common Questions

How much sun does catmint need to flower well?

Catmint needs at least six hours of direct sunlight daily for optimal flowering. Eight to ten hours produces the most compact growth and heaviest bloom cycles.

When should I cut back catmint for a second bloom?

Shear catmint back by one-half to two-thirds immediately after the first flush of flowers fades, typically in late June or early July. This triggers fresh foliage and a full second bloom within four weeks.

Is catmint drought tolerant?

Yes, established catmint is highly drought tolerant due to its deep taproot. It only needs supplemental watering during prolonged dry spells of three weeks or more.

Does catmint attract cats like catnip does?

Most garden catmints (Nepeta x faassenii hybrids) have low nepetalactone content and do not attract cats. True catnip (Nepeta cataria) is the one that causes feline euphoria.

What soil type is best for catmint?

Catmint thrives in lean, gritty, well-drained soil such as sandy loam or rocky terrain. Heavy clay or rich, moist soils cause floppy growth and root rot.

Understanding Catmint Sun Requirements

Let us start with the most critical factor: sunlight. Catmints flowering plants sun needs are non-negotiable if you want the best performance. These plants evolved in the open, sunny hillsides of Europe and Asia, where they bake in direct light for most of the day. In the garden, that translates to a minimum of six hours of unfiltered sun. Eight to ten hours is even better, especially in cooler northern climates where light intensity is lower.

What Happens in Too Much Shade

Plant catmint in part shade, and you will quickly see the consequences. Stems stretch toward the light, becoming long and weak. The plant loses its naturally compact, mounding habit and flops open in the center, a look gardeners call “balding.” Flower production drops dramatically. The few blooms that do appear are smaller and paler. Foliage may turn a lighter green and lose some of its pungent aroma, which also reduces its deer resistance. Powdery mildew becomes more likely in the damp, still air of shady spots.

Measuring Your Garden Sun Exposure

Before planting, spend a day observing your proposed site. Note when the sun hits the area and when shadows from trees, buildings, or fences creep in. A spot that gets morning sun but afternoon shade might only offer four hours of direct light, which is insufficient. South-facing beds usually provide the strongest, longest exposure. West-facing sites work well too, though they may miss the gentler morning light. East-facing locations often fall short unless they are wide open to the sky.

Regional Sun Intensity Considerations

Gardeners in the Deep South or Southwest face a different challenge: sun that is almost too intense. In zones 8 through 10, the combination of scorching afternoon rays and high heat can stress even sun-loving perennials. If you garden in these regions, a site with morning sun and light, dappled afternoon shade can actually produce better results than full, unrelenting exposure. The plants will still get their six-plus hours, but the midday break reduces water loss and heat stress.

Choosing the Right Catmint Variety for Your Sun Garden

Not all catmints are created equal. The genus Nepeta includes dozens of species and cultivars, ranging from low-growing groundcovers to upright clumps over three feet tall. Selecting a variety that matches your space and design goals ensures you won’t be fighting the plant’s natural habit.

Classic Tall Varieties

Nepeta x faassenii ‘Walker’s Low’ is the industry standard for a reason. Despite the name, it reaches 24 to 30 inches tall and wide, forming a broad, billowing mound. It was named Perennial Plant of the Year in 2007. ‘Six Hills Giant’ is another classic, slightly taller at 30 to 36 inches, with larger leaves and a more vigorous spread. Both bloom heavily in late spring to early summer and rebloom reliably after shearing. These are ideal for the middle of a sunny border or massed on a slope.

Compact and Dwarf Selections

For the front of the border, rock gardens, or containers, look to the newer breeding lines. ‘Junior Walker’ tops out at 15 to 18 inches with the same flower power as its larger cousin. ‘Kit Cat’ and ‘Little Trudy’ stay under 12 inches, forming tight, neat mounds. ‘Blue Wonder’ reaches about 18 inches and is notably heat tolerant. These compact varieties maintain their shape better in wind and rain and rarely need staking.

Unique Colors and Forms

While lavender-blue is the signature hue, breeders have expanded the palette. ‘Pink Cat’ offers soft shell-pink flowers on a 12-inch plant. ‘Snowflake’ and ‘White Wonder’ bring pure white blooms that glow in evening light. ‘Purple Haze’ has deeper violet flowers and a more spreading habit, useful as a flowering groundcover. Nepeta sibirica ‘Souvenir d’André Chaudron’ stands apart with larger, darker violet flowers on 18-inch stems and a later bloom start, extending the catmint season.

Species Catmints for Naturalistic Plantings

If you favor a wilder look, consider straight species like Nepeta racemosa or Nepeta grandiflora. These tend to be looser, more informal, and often self-sow gently. Nepeta cataria, true catnip, is the one that sends felines into ecstasy, but it is rangy and less ornamental. Most garden catmints are hybrids with low nepetalactone content, so they won’t attract neighborhood cats to roll in your beds.

Soil Preparation and Planting for Success

Sunlight gets the glory, but soil does the heavy lifting. Catmints flowering plants sun gardens thrive when the underground conditions match their native preferences. These are not rich-soil plants. In fact, too much fertility produces lush, weak growth that flops and flowers poorly.

The Ideal Soil Profile

Think lean, gritty, and exceptionally well-drained. Sandy loam is perfect. Rocky or gravelly soil works beautifully. The key is that water never sits around the roots. Heavy clay is the enemy. If you have clay, you have two options: amend heavily or build raised beds. To amend, incorporate coarse sand, fine gravel, or expanded shale at a 1:1 ratio with native soil. Add a modest amount of compost for structure, but skip the manure or rich organic matter. The goal is a soil that dries quickly after rain.

Planting Technique

Spring and early fall are the best planting times. Space plants according to their mature width, usually 18 to 30 inches apart depending on variety. Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball but no deeper. Rough up the sides of the hole to prevent glazing in clay soils. Set the plant so the crown sits at soil level or very slightly above. Backfill with your amended mix, firm gently, and water deeply to settle the soil. Apply a thin layer of gravel mulch or shredded bark, keeping it away from the crown.

Container Planting Considerations

Catmint performs beautifully in pots, which is great news for patio gardeners or those with terrible soil. Choose a container at least 12 inches deep and wide with multiple drainage holes. Use a gritty potting mix: two parts coarse sand or perlite, one part compost, one part peat or coir. Avoid moisture-retentive crystals or water-holding gels. Place the pot in full sun. Water when the top two inches of mix are dry. Feed sparingly with a slow-release, low-nitrogen fertilizer in spring.

Watering, Feeding, and Ongoing Care

Once established, catmint asks for very little. But the establishment phase, roughly the first six to eight weeks, requires attention. Understanding the watering curve prevents both drought stress and the root rot that kills more catmint than anything else.

Establishment Watering

Water new plants deeply two to three times per week for the first month, assuming no significant rain. “Deeply” means soaking the root zone to a depth of six to eight inches. Check with a trowel or finger. After the first month, reduce to once a week. By week eight, most plants are established enough to handle normal rainfall. In hot, windy weather, you may need to supplement longer.

Mature Plant Watering

Established catmint is remarkably drought tolerant. Its deep taproot seeks moisture far below the surface. In most regions, supplemental watering is unnecessary except during prolonged droughts of three weeks or more. If you do water, do it deeply and infrequently. Frequent shallow watering encourages surface roots that are vulnerable to heat and cold. A good rule: water when the top three inches of soil are dry and the plant shows slight wilting in early morning.

Fertilizing: Less Is More

Catmint grows naturally in nutrient-poor soils. Excess nitrogen produces soft, sappy stems that flop and attract aphids. If your soil is reasonably decent, no fertilizer is needed. In very sandy or depleted soils, a single application of slow-release, balanced fertilizer (such as 5-5-5) in early spring is plenty. Alternatively, top-dress with a half-inch of compost every other year. Avoid liquid feeds, manure, and high-nitrogen lawn fertilizers that drift into beds.

The All-Important Mid-Season Shear

This is the single most impactful maintenance task for catmints flowering plants sun gardens. After the first heavy flush of bloom fades, usually in late June or early July, the plant looks tired. Stems elongate, flowers turn brown, and the center may open up. Grab your hedge shears or large scissors and cut the entire plant back by one-half to two-thirds. Yes, it looks drastic. But within two weeks, fresh gray-green foliage emerges, and within four weeks, a second full bloom cycle begins. This shear also prevents the plant from seeding aggressively and keeps the mound dense and attractive.

Fall and Winter Care

In cold climates (zones 3-5), leave the faded foliage standing over winter. It catches snow, insulates the crown, and provides habitat for beneficial insects. Cut back to the ground in early spring before new growth emerges. In milder zones (6-8), you can shear lightly in late fall for neatness, but the plant often stays semi-evergreen. A spring cleanup is still recommended to remove any winter-damaged stems.

Designing with Catmint in Sunny Spaces

Catmint’s soft texture, long bloom, and versatile habit make it a designer’s dream. It plays well with almost any sun-loving plant and solves numerous garden challenges.

Classic Rose Companions

The pairing of catmint and roses is legendary. Catmint’s billowy mounds hide the bare knees of rose bushes. Its lavender-blue flowers complement every rose color from deepest crimson to purest white. The aromatic foliage may help deter rose pests like aphids and Japanese beetles. Plant catmint 18 inches from the rose base in a ring or drift. ‘Walker’s Low’ and ‘Six Hills Giant’ are the right scale for most shrub roses. For miniature roses, use ‘Junior Walker’ or ‘Kit Cat’.

Pollinator and Wildlife Gardens

If you want a garden alive with buzzing and fluttering, catmint is essential. The tubular flowers are perfectly shaped for long-tongued bees, bumblebees, and butterflies. Hummingbirds visit frequently. Plant in drifts of five or more for maximum impact. Combine with other pollinator magnets like coneflower (Echinacea), bee balm (Monarda), salvia, and ornamental oregano. Succession planting with early bulbs and late asters ensures continuous nectar from spring to frost.

Edging and Border Fronts

Compact varieties create a tidy, flowering edge along paths, driveways, and bed fronts. The gray-green foliage provides a cooling visual break between lawn and taller plants. Because catmint tolerates light foot traffic once established, it works beside stepping stones. The aromatic leaves release scent when brushed, adding a sensory dimension. ‘Little Trudy,’ ‘Kit Cat,’ and ‘Blue Wonder’ stay low enough to not flop onto paving.

Slopes, Banks, and Erosion Control

Catmint’s spreading root system and drought tolerance make it excellent for stabilizing sunny slopes. Plant in a staggered grid, 18 inches apart. The interlocking roots hold soil. The dense foliage shades out weeds. On steep banks, use landscape fabric pinned down, cut planting holes, and mulch with gravel until plants fill in. ‘Walker’s Low’ and Nepeta racemosa are particularly effective for this purpose.

Rock Gardens and Gravel Beds

Few perennials look more at home among stones than catmint. Its natural habitat includes rocky hillsides. In a rock garden, tuck compact varieties into crevices and pockets. The foliage softens hard edges. The flowers echo the blues of nearby alpine plants like creeping thyme, sedum, and dwarf iris. Gravel mulch mimics the sharp drainage catmint loves and prevents crown rot.

Container Combinations

In large pots, catmint plays the “filler” role beautifully. Pair a compact variety like ‘Junior Walker’ with a tall “thriller” such as purple fountain grass or dwarf canna, and a trailing “spiller” like sweet potato vine or creeping jenny. The catmint blooms all season, bridging the gap between spring bulbs and fall mums. Use the gritty potting mix described earlier. Group pots for a mini pollinator oasis on a sunny deck.

Troubleshooting Common Catmint Problems

Even with ideal sun and soil, issues occasionally arise. Most are easily diagnosed and corrected.

Floppy, Open Centers

This is the number one complaint. Causes include too much shade, over-fertilizing, over-watering, or simply the natural growth habit of tall varieties after bloom. The fix: ensure full sun, stop fertilizing, reduce watering, and shear hard after first bloom. For chronic floppiness, try a Chelsea chop in late May: cut stems back by one-third before buds form. This produces shorter, sturdier stems and slightly delays bloom.

Powdery Mildew

A white, dusty coating on leaves indicates powdery mildew. It thrives in humid conditions with poor air circulation, often in part shade. Prevention: full sun, proper spacing, avoid overhead watering. Treatment: remove affected leaves, improve air flow, apply a homemade spray of one tablespoon baking soda plus one teaspoon horticultural oil per gallon of water weekly. Resistant varieties include ‘Walker’s Low,’ ‘Blue Wonder,’ and ‘Junior Walker’.

Root Rot and Crown Rot

Sudden wilting, yellowing, and plant death in wet weather usually signal rot. The roots turn brown and mushy. This is almost always a drainage issue. If caught early, dig the plant, trim rotted roots, dust with sulfur, and replant in a raised, well-drained spot. Often, the plant is a total loss. Prevention is key: gritty soil, gravel mulch, no irrigation near crown.

Aphids and Spider Mites

Aphids cluster on tender new growth in spring. Spider mites appear in hot, dry weather, causing stippled, bronzed leaves. Both are usually minor. Blast with a strong jet of water. Encourage ladybugs and lacewings. Insecticidal soap or neem oil works for heavier infestations. Healthy, unstressed plants in full sun rarely suffer serious damage.

Aggressive Spreading

Some catmints, particularly Nepeta racemosa and ‘Six Hills Giant,’ spread by underground runners and can colonize beyond their allotted space. The mid-season shear reduces seeding. For runners, install a deep edging barrier (12-inch plastic or metal) or dig and divide wandering sections in spring. Planting in a bottomless pot sunk into the ground also contains roots.

Propagating Catmint for More Plants

Catmint is one of the easiest perennials to propagate, which is good news for budget-conscious gardeners or those wanting to expand a drift.

Division

Spring is the ideal time to divide established clumps, just as new growth emerges. Dig the entire plant. Use a sharp spade or knife to cut the root ball into sections, each with several shoots and a healthy root portion. Replant immediately at the same depth. Water well. Divisions often bloom the same year. Divide every three to four years to maintain vigor.

Stem Cuttings

Take softwood cuttings in late spring or early summer from non-flowering shoots. Cut four- to six-inch pieces just below a node. Strip lower leaves. Dip in rooting hormone (optional but helpful). Insert into a gritty mix of half perlite, half peat. Cover with a clear plastic bag to maintain humidity. Place in bright, indirect light. Roots form in three to four weeks. Pot up and grow on before planting out.

Seed

Catmint seeds readily, but hybrids like ‘Walker’s Low’ do not come true from seed. Species types and open-pollinated varieties will. Collect seed heads when brown and dry. Sow directly in prepared beds in fall or spring, or start indoors six to eight weeks before last frost. Surface sow; light aids germination. Thin or transplant seedlings to 12-inch spacing.

Seasonal Calendar for Catmint Care

Here is a quick-reference guide to keep your catmints flowering plants sun beds on track throughout the year.

Early Spring (March-April)

• Cut back last year’s foliage to the ground.
• Apply a thin layer of compost if soil is poor.
• Divide overcrowded clumps.
• Plant new purchases.

Late Spring (May)

• Chelsea chop tall varieties if desired (cut back by one-third).
• Watch for aphids on new growth.
• Water new plants regularly.
• Enjoy first flower buds forming.

Early Summer (June)

• Peak first bloom. Deadhead spent spikes if you have time, but not required.
• Monitor for powdery mildew in humid weather.
• Water only during extended dry spells.

Mid Summer (July)

• First flush fades. Perform the major shear: cut back by half to two-thirds.
• Water deeply after shearing to support regrowth.
• Apply a light side-dressing of compost if plants look pale.

Late Summer (August)

• Second bloom cycle begins.
• Continue monitoring for spider mites in heat.
• Enjoy peak pollinator activity.

Fall (September-October)

• Second bloom winds down.
• In zones 3-5, leave foliage standing.
• In zones 6-8, optional light trim for neatness.
• Plant new divisions or container-grown plants.

Winter (November-February)

• No maintenance needed.
• Brush heavy, wet snow off if stems are bending.
• Plan next year’s additions.

Catmint in Challenging Conditions

Real gardens rarely match textbook ideals. Here is how to adapt catmint culture to common difficult situations.

High Heat and Humidity (Southeast, Gulf Coast)

Choose heat-tolerant varieties: ‘Blue Wonder,’ ‘Junior Walker,’ ‘Walker’s Low.’ Provide morning sun with afternoon filtered shade. Ensure excellent air circulation with wider spacing. Mulch with gravel to keep crown dry. Expect a shorter lifespan (three to five years) and plan to replace or divide more frequently.

Cold, Short Seasons (Zones 3-4, High Elevation)

Select the hardiest varieties: ‘Walker’s Low,’ ‘Six Hills Giant,’ Nepeta sibirica. Plant in the warmest microclimate: south-facing slope, near a stone wall. Use gravel mulch for winter drainage. Don’t cut back in fall; the dead foliage protects the crown. Spring emergence may be late; be patient.

Coastal Salt Spray

Catmint has moderate salt tolerance. Plant behind a windbreak or on the lee side of a dune. Rinse foliage with fresh water after storms. Use raised beds with sandy, well-drained soil. ‘Walker’s Low’ and Nepeta racemosa perform best in trials.

Urban Pollution and Compacted Soil

Catmint handles city conditions better than many perennials. Break up compaction deeply before planting. Incorporate compost and coarse sand. Mulch with wood chips to gradually improve soil structure. Water deeply during dry spells, as urban heat islands increase evaporation.

Companion Planting Strategies

Great garden design is about relationships. Catmint’s long season and mounding form make it a team player in countless combinations.

Color Echoes and Contrasts

For a harmonious blue-purple palette, pair catmint with Russian sage (Perovskia), salvia ‘May Night,’ catmint’s taller cousin Nepeta grandiflora, and lavender. Add yellow for classic contrast: coreopsis ‘Moonbeam,’ black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia), yarrow ‘Moonshine,’ or daylilies. For a pastel romance, combine with pink coneflower, white shasta daisy, and pink yarrow.

Texture Play

Catmint’s fine, aromatic foliage begs for bold neighbors. Large-leaved plants like hosta (in part sun), bergenia, or rodgersia create drama. Grasses add movement: feather reed grass (Calamagrostis ‘Karl Foerster’), switchgrass (Panicum), or little bluestem (Schizachyrium). Succulents like sedum ‘Autumn Joy’ echo the drought tolerance.

Seasonal Succession

Catmint’s main bloom is late spring to early summer. Bridge the gaps. Underplant with early bulbs: species tulips, alliums, crocus. The catmint foliage hides ripening bulb leaves. For late summer, let tall annuals like cosmos or zinnias rise through the catmint mound after its shear. Fall bloomers like sedum, aster, and goldenrod take over as catmint fades.

Edible and Herb Garden Integration

Catmint belongs to the mint family (Lamiaceae) and fits naturally in herb gardens. Plant alongside lavender, thyme, oregano, sage, and rosemary. All share the same sun and drainage needs. The combined aromatics confuse pests. Harvest catmint leaves for tea (mild, minty, relaxing) or dry for cat toys. Just be sure you are growing Nepeta x faassenii or similar ornamental types, not Nepeta cataria, if you want ornamental value.

Frequently Asked Questions About Catmint Sun Needs

Let us address the questions gardeners ask most often about catmints flowering plants sun requirements.

Can catmint grow in part shade?

It will survive in four to six hours of sun, but performance declines significantly. Expect fewer flowers, leggier growth, reduced fragrance, and higher disease risk. If part shade is your only option, choose ‘Walker’s Low’ or ‘Blue Wonder,’ which are more shade-tolerant, and accept a looser habit.

How many hours of sun does catmint really need?

Six hours of direct, unfiltered sun is the minimum for good performance. Eight to ten hours produces the most compact plants and heaviest bloom. In hot climates, six hours of morning sun plus bright indirect light all afternoon can suffice.

Will catmint burn in full sun?

No. Catmint is adapted to full, open sun. Leaf scorch only occurs if a shade-grown plant is suddenly moved to full sun without hardening off, or if the plant is severely drought-stressed. Established plants in proper soil handle intense sun beautifully.

Does catmint need afternoon shade in the South?

In zones 8-10, afternoon shade or dappled light improves longevity and reduces watering needs. Morning sun until 1 or 2 PM, then filtered shade, is ideal. Avoid dense shade, which causes the same problems as in cooler climates.

Can I grow catmint indoors in a sunny window?

Not successfully long-term. Catmint needs the intensity of outdoor sun, seasonal temperature fluctuations, and a winter dormancy period. Indoor light, even in a south window, is too weak. The plant will stretch, weaken, and eventually die. Grow it outdoors.

What if my sunny spot has terrible soil?

That is actually good news. Catmint prefers lean, gritty, well-drained soil over rich loam. If you have sand, gravel, or rocky soil, you may not need to amend at all. Just avoid heavy clay or low spots that collect water.

Conclusion

Growing catmints flowering plants sun gardens is one of the most rewarding perennial endeavors you can undertake. These plants give so much and ask for so little: a sunny spot, decent drainage, and a yearly haircut. In return, you get months of lavender-blue clouds, clouds of pollinators, aromatic foliage that deer ignore, and a plant that bounces back from drought, heat, and neglect.

Whether you tuck a compact ‘Kit Cat’ along a garden path, mass ‘Walker’s Low’ on a sunny slope, or pair catmint with roses in a classic border, you are participating in a gardening tradition that spans centuries. The key takeaway is simple. Give catmint the sun it evolved for. Resist the urge to coddle with fertilizer and frequent water. Shear it boldly in midsummer. Then step back and watch the magic unfold.

Your garden, your pollinators, and your sense of satisfaction will all be richer for it. Now grab your trowel, find that sunny patch, and plant some catmint. You won’t regret it.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can catmint grow in partial shade?

Catmint can survive in partial shade with four to six hours of sun, but it will produce fewer flowers, develop a leggy open habit, and be more susceptible to powdery mildew. For best results, provide at least six hours of direct sunlight.

How often should I water catmint?

Water new plants deeply two to three times per week for the first month, then weekly until established. Mature catmint rarely needs supplemental water except during extended droughts of three weeks or more.

When is the best time to plant catmint?

Spring and early fall are ideal planting times. Spring planting allows roots to establish before summer heat. Fall planting gives a head start for the following year. Avoid planting during the hottest summer weeks.

Why is my catmint flopping open in the middle?

Flopping is usually caused by too much shade, over-fertilizing, over-watering, or the natural post-bloom habit of tall varieties. Ensure full sun, stop fertilizing, reduce watering, and shear back hard after the first bloom.

Do I need to deadhead catmint?

Deadheading individual spent spikes is not necessary. Instead, perform a single major shearing of the entire plant by half to two-thirds after the first bloom cycle ends. This is faster and triggers a better second flush.

Is catmint deer resistant?

Yes, catmint is highly deer and rabbit resistant due to its pungent, minty aromatic foliage. It is an excellent choice for unfenced gardens in areas with high deer pressure.