Catmint Plant
The catmint plant is a low-maintenance perennial that blooms for months with lavender-blue flowers and aromatic gray-green foliage. Perfect for borders, pollinator gardens, and drought-tolerant landscapes, it thrives in full sun and poor soil while resisting deer and rabbits.
Key Takeaways
- Easy to grow: The catmint plant thrives in full sun, well-drained soil, and requires minimal watering once established.
- Long bloom season: Expect flowers from late spring through fall with proper deadheading.
- Pollinator magnet: Bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds love the nectar-rich blooms.
- Deer and rabbit resistant: The strong minty fragrance deters browsing animals naturally.
- Versatile uses: Use catmint plant in borders, rock gardens, containers, and as a companion plant for roses.
- Medicinal and culinary value: Leaves make a calming tea and have traditional herbal uses.
- Simple propagation: Divide clumps in spring or take cuttings in summer for free new plants.
Quick Answers to Common Questions
What is the difference between catmint plant and catnip?
Catmint plant (Nepeta × faassenii) is an ornamental perennial with showy lavender-blue flowers and tidy gray-green foliage. Catnip (Nepeta cataria) is a weedy herb with coarse leaves and small white flowers. Cats react more strongly to catnip. Catmint plant is grown for garden beauty; catnip is grown for cats or tea.
How often should I water catmint plant?
Water new catmint plant weekly for the first month. After establishment, water only during prolonged drought. A deep soak every two to three weeks in dry weather is plenty. Overwatering causes root rot. The catmint plant prefers dry conditions once rooted.
When should I cut back catmint plant?
Shear catmint plant back by half after the first flush of flowers fades in early summer. Repeat after each bloom cycle. Do a final cleanup in early spring, cutting dead stems to the basal rosette. Stop major pruning six weeks before frost to allow hardening off.
Does catmint plant come back every year?
Yes, catmint plant is a hardy perennial in USDA zones 3 to 8. It returns reliably each spring. Divide clumps every three to four years to maintain vigor and prevent the center from dying out. With division, catmint plant lives indefinitely.
Can catmint plant grow in pots?
Catmint plant grows well in containers. Use a pot at least 12 inches wide and deep with drainage holes. Fill with a gritty mix: two parts potting soil, one part coarse sand, one part fine gravel. Place in full sun. Water when the top inch of soil is dry. Overwinter in an unheated garage or bury the pot.
📑 Table of Contents
- What Is Catmint Plant?
- Types and Varieties of Catmint Plant
- Growing Catmint Plant Successfully
- Caring for Your Catmint Plant
- Uses and Benefits of Catmint Plant
- Common Problems and Solutions
- Propagating Catmint Plant
- Seasonal Care Calendar
- Design Ideas Featuring Catmint Plant
- Buying Catmint Plant: What to Look For
- Catmint Plant vs. Catnip: Clearing the Confusion
- Frequently Asked Questions About Catmint Plant
- Conclusion
What Is Catmint Plant?
The catmint plant belongs to the genus Nepeta, a group of about 250 species in the mint family Lamiaceae. Despite the name, catmint plant is not the same as catnip (Nepeta cataria), though they are close relatives. Both contain nepetalactone, the compound that sends cats into euphoric rolls, but catmint plant has a milder effect on felines and a much showier garden presence.
Native to Europe, Asia, and Africa, the catmint plant has naturalized across North America. It forms neat mounds of aromatic, gray-green foliage topped with spikes of small, tubular flowers in shades of lavender, blue, pink, or white. The plant releases a pleasant, minty-lemon scent when brushed against, making it a delight along pathways and seating areas.
Gardeners prize the catmint plant for its toughness. It handles heat, drought, and poor soil with grace. Once established, it asks for little and gives months of color. The most popular cultivar, Nepeta × faassenii ‘Walker’s Low,’ was named Perennial Plant of the Year in 2007. Despite the name, ‘Walker’s Low’ grows 24 to 30 inches tall. It earned the award for reliability, long bloom, and pest resistance.
Types and Varieties of Catmint Plant
Classic Catmint Plant Varieties
Nepeta × faassenii ‘Walker’s Low’ leads the pack. This sterile hybrid does not self-seed aggressively. It forms a broad mound 30 inches tall and wide. Lavender-blue flowers appear in May and continue until frost with shearing. The foliage stays attractive all season.
Visual guide about Catmint Plant
Image source: cdn.mos.cms.futurecdn.net
Nepeta × faassenii ‘Six Hills Giant’ is larger, reaching 36 inches tall and wide. It bears deeper violet-blue flowers on longer spikes. This variety makes a bold statement in the middle of a border. It benefits from staking in rich soil.
Nepeta × faassenii ‘Blue Wonder’ stays compact at 12 to 15 inches. Perfect for the front of the border or containers. The flowers are an intense true blue. It blooms heavily in early summer and reblooms well after cutting back.
Dwarf and Compact Catmint Plant Options
Nepeta ‘Kit Cat’ forms a tight mound just 8 to 10 inches tall. Ideal for rock gardens, troughs, and edging. The foliage is especially dense and aromatic. Flowers are soft lavender-blue.
Nepeta ‘Purrsian Blue’ is a newer introduction with a tidy 14 to 18 inch habit. It blooms earlier than most catmint plant varieties and keeps a neat shape without flopping. The flowers are a lovely periwinkle blue.
Nepeta ‘Junior Walker’ is a dwarf sport of ‘Walker’s Low.’ It tops out at 16 to 18 inches with the same long bloom season. Excellent for smaller gardens where the full-size version would overwhelm.
Species Catmint Plant for Naturalistic Plantings
Nepeta sibirica (Siberian catmint plant) grows 24 to 36 inches with larger, more spaced-out flowers in a soft violet-blue. It spreads by rhizomes to form colonies. Good for meadow plantings and cottage gardens where a looser look is welcome.
Nepeta grandiflora (large-flowered catmint plant) offers showier individual blooms on 30-inch stems. ‘Dawn to Dusk’ has pink flowers that age to lavender. ‘Bramdean’ bears deep violet-blue. These species types often self-sow modestly.
Nepeta subsessilis (Japanese catmint plant) prefers more moisture than other types. It has larger, glossier leaves and dense spikes of blue flowers. A good choice for damp spots or rain gardens in partial shade.
Growing Catmint Plant Successfully
Choosing the Right Site
The catmint plant demands full sun. Six hours of direct light is the minimum. Eight to ten hours produces the sturdiest growth and heaviest bloom. In hot southern climates, a touch of afternoon shade prevents leaf scorch, but too much shade leads to floppy stems and fewer flowers.
Soil drainage is non-negotiable. The catmint plant rots in wet clay, especially in winter. Sandy or gravelly soil is ideal. If your soil is heavy, amend generously with coarse sand, fine gravel, or perlite. Raised beds work beautifully. A slope or berm improves drainage naturally.
Soil fertility should be low to moderate. Rich soil produces lush, weak growth that flops. The catmint plant thrives in lean conditions. Skip the compost and fertilizer at planting time. A handful of grit in the planting hole is all it needs.
When and How to Plant Catmint Plant
Spring planting gives the catmint plant a full season to establish before winter. Fall planting works in zones 6 and warmer, provided you plant six weeks before the ground freezes. Space plants according to mature width: 18 inches for dwarfs, 24 to 30 inches for standard types.
Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball and the same depth. Loosen the roots gently if they are circling. Set the plant so the crown sits at soil level. Backfill with native soil. Firm gently. Water thoroughly to settle the soil. Mulch with gravel or a thin layer of shredded bark, keeping mulch away from the crown.
Water new plants weekly for the first month unless rain provides an inch. After that, taper off. The catmint plant develops deep roots that find moisture on their own. Overwatering is the surest way to kill it.
Growing Catmint Plant in Containers
The catmint plant adapts well to pots. Choose a container at least 12 inches wide and deep with drainage holes. Use a gritty mix: two parts potting soil, one part coarse sand or perlite, one part fine gravel. Avoid moisture-retentive crystals or water-holding gels.
Place the pot in full sun. Water when the top inch of soil feels dry. Fertilize once in spring with a slow-release, low-nitrogen formula. Overwinter containers in an unheated garage or bury the pot in the ground. The roots are hardy, but exposed pots freeze solid and kill the plant.
Caring for Your Catmint Plant
Watering Wisdom
Established catmint plant is remarkably drought tolerant. In most regions, rainfall alone suffices. During prolonged dry spells, a deep soak every two to three weeks keeps it blooming. Water at the base, not overhead. Wet foliage invites fungal issues.
Signs of underwatering: leaves curl, color dulls, flowering slows. Signs of overwatering: yellowing lower leaves, soft stems, crown rot. When in doubt, wait. The catmint plant recovers from drought faster than from soggy roots.
Pruning and Deadheading for Continuous Bloom
The first flush of flowers peaks in late spring to early summer. When blooms fade, shear the entire plant back by half. Use hedge shears or sharp pruners. This looks drastic but stimulates fresh growth and a second heavy bloom in four to six weeks.
Repeat the shearing after each flush fades. In long-season climates, you may get three or four bloom cycles. Stop major cutting back six weeks before your first frost date. This allows the plant to harden off for winter.
In early spring, cut back all dead growth to the basal rosette. New shoots emerge from the crown. Don’t cut into the woody base. The catmint plant blooms on new wood, so spring cleanup is essential for a good show.
Dividing Catmint Plant
Divide clumps every three to four years in early spring. The center of old plants often dies out, leaving a donut shape. Dig the whole clump. Use a sharp spade or knife to cut into sections, each with roots and shoots. Replant the vigorous outer pieces. Discard the woody center.
Division rejuvenates the catmint plant and gives you free plants. Water divisions well for the first few weeks. They establish quickly in cool spring soil.
Fertilizing: Less Is More
The catmint plant needs little to no fertilizer. A light scattering of compost around the base in spring is plenty. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers. They produce soft, floppy growth that attracts aphids and collapses in rain.
If your soil is extremely poor, a single application of balanced organic fertilizer (5-5-5) in early spring won’t hurt. But lean soil makes stronger, more aromatic, more floriferous plants.
Uses and Benefits of Catmint Plant
Garden Design with Catmint Plant
The catmint plant shines in countless roles. Its soft mounds and airy spikes blend with almost anything. Plant it along the front of a sunny border where the gray foliage sets off brighter flowers. Use it to hide the bare legs of roses. The lavender-blue flowers complement pink, yellow, white, and orange roses beautifully.
In a cottage garden, let catmint plant self-sow gently among foxgloves, delphiniums, and poppies. In a Mediterranean scheme, pair it with lavender, rosemary, sage, and thyme. The similar cultural needs make maintenance easy.
Rock gardens and gravel gardens suit the catmint plant perfectly. The sharp drainage mimics its native habitat. Let it spill over stone walls or soften the edge of a patio. Dwarf varieties tuck into crevices and troughs.
For a pollinator meadow, mix catmint plant with coneflowers, black-eyed Susans, bee balm, and ornamental grasses. The long bloom season provides nectar when other sources are scarce.
Catmint Plant as a Companion Plant
The catmint plant benefits its neighbors. The strong scent confuses pests seeking host plants by smell. Plant it near vegetables to deter aphids, flea beetles, squash bugs, and cabbage moths. It works well with tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, brassicas, and squash.
Under fruit trees, catmint plant attracts pollinators for better fruit set. Its shallow roots don’t compete with tree roots. Mow or shear it after flowering to keep it tidy in an orchard setting.
Roses and catmint plant are classic partners. The catmint plant covers the thorny canes at ground level. Its bloom coincides with the first rose flush. The blue flowers make red, pink, and yellow roses pop. Both want full sun and good drainage.
Pollinator Powerhouse
Few perennials match the catmint plant for pollinator appeal. Honeybees, bumblebees, native solitary bees, butterflies, moths, and hummingbirds visit constantly. The tubular flowers are perfectly shaped for long-tongued pollinators. The bloom season bridges the gap between spring bulbs and summer perennials.
Plant catmint plant in drifts of three or more for maximum pollinator traffic. Single plants get lost. Masses create a visual target and efficient foraging. Avoid pesticides on or near catmint plant. Even organic sprays can harm the very insects you want to attract.
Culinary and Herbal Uses
The catmint plant has a long history in the kitchen and apothecary. The leaves make a pleasant, mildly minty tea. Steep a tablespoon of fresh leaves (or a teaspoon dried) in a cup of boiling water for five minutes. Sweeten with honey if desired. The tea is traditionally used for relaxation, digestion, and mild colds.
Young leaves add a subtle mint flavor to salads, fruit salads, and summer drinks. Use sparingly. The flavor is stronger than it smells. Flowers are edible and pretty as a garnish on desserts and cocktails.
Herbalists value catmint plant for its calming, antispasmodic, and diaphoretic properties. It has been used for anxiety, insomnia, menstrual cramps, and fever. The essential oil contains nepetalactone, which has documented insect-repellent effects. Crushed leaves rubbed on skin may deter mosquitoes briefly.
Always identify plants with certainty before consuming. Avoid use during pregnancy. Consult a healthcare provider if you take medications or have health conditions.
Catmint Plant and Cats
Yes, cats love catmint plant. But the reaction varies. About 50 to 70 percent of cats respond to nepetalactone. Kittens under six months and senior cats often show no interest. The response is genetic.
Cats may roll, rub, drool, vocalize, or become hyperactive for 10 to 15 minutes. Then they lose interest for an hour or two. It is harmless and non-addictive. Some gardeners plant a dedicated patch for their cats away from prized specimens.
If neighborhood cats flatten your catmint plant, protect young plants with a wire cage until established. Mature plants tolerate occasional feline attention. The plant grows back fast.
Common Problems and Solutions
Flopping and Leggy Growth
The number one complaint about catmint plant is flopping. Causes: too much shade, too much water, too much fertilizer, or overcrowding. Fix: move to full sun, stop fertilizing, water less, divide crowded clumps. Shearing back by half in early summer (the “Chelsea chop”) produces shorter, sturdier stems.
Some varieties are naturally more upright. ‘Walker’s Low’ and ‘Purrsian Blue’ hold their shape better than ‘Six Hills Giant.’ Choose compact cultivars for windy sites.
Powdery Mildew
Powdery mildew appears as white dust on leaves in humid weather with poor air circulation. It rarely kills the catmint plant but looks unsightly. Prevention: space plants for airflow, water at the base, avoid evening watering. Treatment: remove affected leaves, spray with potassium bicarbonate or neem oil. Shearing back after the first bloom removes mildewed foliage and stimulates clean new growth.
Root Rot and Crown Rot
Wet soil, especially in winter, causes rot. The plant wilts despite moist soil. Leaves yellow and brown. Stems turn black at the base. Prevention is the only cure. Ensure sharp drainage. Plant on a berm or in a raised bed. Amend heavy soil with grit. Mulch with gravel, not bark, to keep the crown dry.
If rot strikes, dig the plant. Cut away all blackened tissue. Dust cuts with sulfur. Replant in a better spot or a container with gritty mix. Often the plant is too far gone. Start fresh with a new plant in a better location.
Aphids and Spider Mites
Aphids cluster on new growth in spring. Spider mites appear in hot, dry weather, causing stippled, dusty leaves. Both are usually minor on catmint plant. Blast with a strong jet of water. Encourage ladybugs and lacewings. Insecticidal soap works if needed. Healthy plants in full sun rarely suffer serious damage.
Winter Survival
The catmint plant is hardy in USDA zones 3 to 8, sometimes zone 9 with afternoon shade. Winter kill usually comes from wet soil, not cold. Cut back dead stems in late fall only if disease was present. Otherwise, leave them. The foliage catches snow and insulates the crown.
In zone 3 and 4, a light mulch of straw or evergreen boughs after the ground freezes helps. Remove mulch early in spring. Don’t smother the crown.
Propagating Catmint Plant
Division
Division is the easiest, fastest method. Do it in early spring as new growth appears. Dig the clump. Pull or cut apart into sections with roots and shoots. Replant immediately. Water well. Divisions bloom the same year.
Stem Cuttings
Take cuttings in early summer from non-flowering shoots. Cut 4-inch pieces just below a node. Strip lower leaves. Dip in rooting hormone (optional). Stick in moist perlite or sand. Cover with a plastic bag. Place in bright shade. Roots form in two to three weeks. Pot up and grow on.
Seed
Species catmint plant comes true from seed. Hybrids like ‘Walker’s Low’ are sterile or produce variable offspring. Sow seed indoors 8 weeks before last frost. Barely cover. Keep at 65 to 70°F. Germination takes 10 to 20 days. Transplant seedlings after frost. Seed-grown plants bloom in their second year.
Seasonal Care Calendar
Spring
Cut back dead stems to the basal rosette. Divide crowded clumps. Apply a thin layer of compost if desired. Watch for aphids on new growth. Water only if unusually dry.
Early Summer
Enjoy the first big bloom. Shear back by half when flowers fade. Water deeply if drought persists. Scout for powdery mildew in humid weather.
Mid to Late Summer
Second bloom cycle. Repeat shearing after each flush fades. Take cuttings for propagation. Monitor for spider mites in heat.
Fall
Stop major pruning six weeks before frost. Let the last blooms stand for pollinators. Clean up fallen leaves if disease was present. Plant new catmint plant in zones 6+.
Winter
Leave stems standing for insulation. Apply winter mulch in cold zones after ground freezes. Plan next year’s additions. Order plants early for best selection.
Design Ideas Featuring Catmint Plant
The Classic Rose Underplanting
Plant catmint plant 18 inches from rose bushes in a ring or drift. The blue flowers bloom with the first rose flush. The gray foliage hides thorny canes. Both plants want the same conditions. Shear catmint plant after bloom to keep it tidy under roses.
The Pollinator Pathway
Line a sunny path with catmint plant on both sides. Space plants 18 inches apart. The billowing mounds soften the hardscape. Bees and butterflies accompany your walk. Brush against the foliage to release fragrance.
The Gravel Garden Ensemble
In a gravel bed, combine catmint plant with lavender, salvia, yarrow, sedum, and ornamental grasses. All thrive in lean, dry soil. The mix provides texture, color, and movement from spring to frost. Maintenance is minimal.
The Container Trio
In a large pot, plant a dwarf catmint plant in the center. Surround with trailing calibrachoa and upright angelonia. All want full sun and good drainage. The catmint plant provides structure and fragrance. The annuals fill in with nonstop color.
The Herb Garden Edge
Border your herb garden with catmint plant. It pairs naturally with rosemary, thyme, oregano, and sage. The similar cultural needs simplify care. The flowers attract pollinators to flowering herbs. Harvest catmint plant leaves for tea alongside your culinary herbs.
Buying Catmint Plant: What to Look For
Buy catmint plant from reputable nurseries. Look for healthy, green foliage without yellowing or spots. Check the roots. They should be white and firm, not brown and mushy. Avoid pot-bound plants with roots circling the bottom.
Choose plants in bud, not full bloom. They establish faster. Labels should list the cultivar name. ‘Walker’s Low,’ ‘Six Hills Giant,’ ‘Blue Wonder,’ ‘Purrsian Blue,’ and ‘Kit Cat’ are reliable performers. Generic “catmint” may be a seedling variable in habit and flower color.
Mail-order plants arrive bare-root or in small pots. Pot them up immediately. Grow on in a protected spot for a few weeks before planting out. Spring shipping is best. Fall shipping works in mild climates.
Expect to pay $8 to $15 for a quart pot, $12 to $25 for a gallon. Dwarf varieties cost more due to slower production. Buying in groups of three or five saves money and gives instant impact.
Catmint Plant vs. Catnip: Clearing the Confusion
Catmint plant (Nepeta × faassenii and other ornamental species) and catnip (Nepeta cataria) are different plants. Catnip is a weedy, short-lived perennial with coarse, hairy leaves and small white flowers with purple spots. It self-sows aggressively. Cats go wild for it.
Catmint plant is a tidy, long-lived perennial with showy flowers and attractive foliage. Cats like it but less intensely. It rarely self-sows. Gardeners grow catmint plant for beauty. They grow catnip for cats (or for tea).
Both contain nepetalactone. Both make tea. Both repel some insects. But in the garden, catmint plant is the star. Catnip belongs in a cat patch or herb garden, not the flower border.
Frequently Asked Questions About Catmint Plant
Does catmint plant spread aggressively?
Clump-forming hybrids like ‘Walker’s Low’ stay put. They expand slowly by widening the crown. Species types like Nepeta sibirica spread by rhizomes and can colonize. Deadhead hybrids to prevent any chance of seeding.
Why is my catmint plant not blooming?
Too much shade, too much nitrogen, or failure to deadhead. Move to full sun. Stop fertilizing. Shear back after the first bloom to trigger rebloom. Young plants may not bloom heavily until their second year.
Can I grow catmint plant indoors?
Not successfully long-term. The catmint plant needs full sun, air movement, and winter dormancy. It becomes leggy and weak indoors. Grow it outside. Bring a pot in for a few days of fragrance, then return it to the sun.
Is catmint plant toxic to pets?
Catmint plant is non-toxic to dogs and cats. Large amounts may cause mild stomach upset. The essential oil is concentrated and should not be applied to pets. The plant itself is safe.
How long does catmint plant live?
With division every few years, catmint plant lives indefinitely. Individual crowns may last 5 to 10 years before the center dies out. Division resets the clock. Undivided plants eventually decline.
Can catmint plant grow in shade?
No. It needs full sun. In shade, it becomes leggy, flops, blooms sparsely, and succumbs to mildew. If you have only shade, choose a different plant. Try Japanese anemone, hosta, or ferns instead.
Conclusion
The catmint plant earns its place in every sunny garden. Few perennials offer so much for so little effort. Months of lavender-blue blooms. Fragrant foliage that deters pests. A magnet for pollinators. Tolerance for drought, heat, and poor soil. Resistance to deer and rabbits. Versatility in design from formal borders to wild meadows.
Start with one reliable cultivar like ‘Walker’s Low’ or ‘Purrsian Blue.’ Plant it in full sun with sharp drainage. Water until established, then step back. Shear after the first bloom. Divide every few years. That’s the whole recipe.
Soon you’ll wonder how you gardened without catmint plant. You’ll find spots for it everywhere: under roses, along paths, in containers, beside vegetables, in the herb garden. You’ll share divisions with friends. You’ll watch bees dance on the spikes at dusk. You’ll brew tea from the leaves on a quiet afternoon.
The catmint plant gives back far more than it asks. It’s the kind of plant that makes a gardener look good. Plant some this spring. Your garden, your pollinators, and maybe even your cat will thank you.
Frequently Asked Questions
What are the best growing conditions for catmint plant?
Catmint plant thrives in full sun (6+ hours) with sharp drainage. It prefers lean, sandy or gravelly soil and tolerates drought once established. Avoid rich soil, heavy clay, and excessive moisture. These conditions produce the sturdiest growth and heaviest bloom.
How do I prevent my catmint plant from flopping over?
Flopping results from too much shade, water, or fertilizer. Ensure full sun, stop fertilizing, and water sparingly. Shear the plant back by half in early summer (the Chelsea chop) to promote shorter, sturdier stems. Choose compact cultivars like ‘Purrsian Blue’ for windy sites.
Is catmint plant deer resistant?
Yes, catmint plant is highly deer and rabbit resistant. The strong minty fragrance and fuzzy foliage deter browsing animals. It is an excellent choice for gardens with high deer pressure. No plant is completely deer-proof, but catmint plant is rarely damaged.
Can I eat catmint plant leaves?
Yes, catmint plant leaves are edible and make a pleasant, mildly minty tea. Young leaves can be used sparingly in salads and drinks. Flowers are edible as a garnish. Traditionally used for relaxation and digestion. Avoid during pregnancy and consult a healthcare provider if you have health conditions.
Why is my catmint plant turning yellow?
Yellowing usually indicates overwatering or poor drainage leading to root rot. Catmint plant needs dry conditions. Check soil moisture. Improve drainage with grit. Remove affected leaves. If the crown is mushy, the plant may not recover. Replant in a better-drained location.
How do I propagate catmint plant?
Divide established clumps in early spring every 3-4 years. Take 4-inch stem cuttings from non-flowering shoots in early summer. Root in moist perlite. Species types grow from seed sown indoors 8 weeks before last frost. Hybrids like ‘Walker’s Low’ are sterile and must be propagated vegetatively.