Planting Catmint Plants

Planting catmint plants is a rewarding way to add long-lasting color and fragrance to your garden. This hardy perennial thrives in full sun, tolerates drought, and attracts bees and butterflies all season long. Follow our complete guide to choose the right variety, prepare your soil, and enjoy years of low-maintenance beauty.

If you want a plant that gives you months of color, asks for very little, and brings life to your garden, planting catmint plants should be at the top of your list. This perennial herb, known botanically as Nepeta, is a workhorse in sunny borders, cottage gardens, and even tough roadside plantings. It blooms from late spring through fall, smells wonderful when brushed against, and pollinators cannot get enough of it. Best of all, it laughs in the face of heat and drought once established.

I have grown catmint for years in my own garden, and it remains one of the most reliable performers I know. Whether you are a brand-new gardener or someone with decades of dirt under your fingernails, this plant delivers. In this guide, I will walk you through everything you need to know about planting catmint plants successfully. We will cover choosing the best variety, preparing the site, the planting process itself, ongoing care, and how to solve the few problems that might pop up. Let us dig in.

Key Takeaways

• Choose the right spot: Catmint needs full sun and well-draining soil to thrive and produce abundant blooms.
• Space plants properly: Allow 18 to 24 inches between plants for good air circulation and healthy growth.
• Water wisely at first: Keep soil moist during establishment, then reduce watering as plants become drought-tolerant.
• Shear after first bloom: Cut plants back by half after the initial flush to encourage a second wave of flowers.
• Divide every few years: Split clumps in spring or fall to maintain vigor and prevent center die-out.
• Pick a variety for your space: From compact ‘Walker’s Low’ to tall ‘Six Hills Giant,’ there is a catmint for every garden size.
• Enjoy the wildlife: Bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds love catmint, while deer and rabbits typically avoid it.

Quick Answers to Common Questions

When is the best time to plant catmint?

Spring after the last frost or early fall, at least six weeks before the ground freezes, are the ideal planting times.

How much sun does catmint need?

Catmint requires full sun, meaning at least six to eight hours of direct sunlight daily for best flowering and form.

How far apart should I space catmint plants?

Space large varieties like ‘Walker’s Low’ 24 to 30 inches apart; compact types like ‘Cat’s Pajamas’ need 12 to 18 inches.

Do I need to fertilize catmint?

No, catmint prefers lean soil. A light application of compost in spring is sufficient; avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers.

How do I keep catmint blooming all summer?

Shear the plant back by half after each major bloom flush to stimulate fresh growth and repeat flowering.

Understanding Catmint: What Makes It Special

Catmint vs. Catnip: Know the Difference

First, let us clear up a common point of confusion. Catmint (Nepeta x faassenii and related hybrids) and catnip (Nepeta cataria) are cousins, but they play very different roles in the garden. Catnip is the one that sends cats into a frenzy. It is weedy, spreads aggressively by seed, and is not particularly ornamental. Catmint, on the other hand, is a sterile hybrid in most modern varieties. It does not reseed all over the place, forms tidy mounds, and puts on a spectacular floral show. If you want a beautiful garden plant, choose catmint. If you want to entertain your cat, grow catnip in a pot.

Why Gardeners Love This Plant

The appeal of catmint goes far beyond its pretty flowers. The foliage is a soft, aromatic gray-green that looks good even when the plant is not in bloom. When the lavender-blue flower spikes appear, they create a haze of color that lasts for weeks. If you shear the plant back after the first flush, you often get a second and even third round of blooms. It is deer resistant, rabbit resistant, and tolerates poor soil, heat, and humidity. Very few perennials check this many boxes.

Popular Varieties to Consider

There are several excellent catmint varieties on the market. ‘Walker’s Low’ is perhaps the most famous. Despite the name, it grows 24 to 30 inches tall and wide, making it a substantial presence. It was named Perennial Plant of the Year in 2007. ‘Cat’s Meow’ and ‘Cat’s Pajamas’ are newer, more compact introductions that stay around 12 to 18 inches tall, perfect for the front of the border or containers. ‘Six Hills Giant’ is an older, taller variety reaching 36 inches, great for the middle or back of a bed. ‘Blue Wonder’ is a dwarf type, topping out at 12 inches, ideal for edging or rock gardens. All share the same easy-care nature.

Choosing the Perfect Location

Sunlight Requirements

When planting catmint plants, sunlight is non-negotiable. These plants need full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sun per day. Eight hours is even better. In partial shade, the plants will get leggy, flop over, and produce far fewer flowers. The stems stretch toward the light, becoming weak. If you only have a partly sunny spot, you might still get some blooms, but the plant will not look its best. Pick the sunniest spot you have.

Soil Conditions and Drainage

Catmint hails from the Mediterranean region and similar climates. It evolved in lean, gritty, well-drained soils. Heavy clay that stays wet in winter is a death sentence. The roots will rot. If your soil is clay-heavy, you have two options. You can amend the planting area generously with coarse sand, fine gravel, and compost to improve drainage. Or, you can plant in a raised bed or mound where excess water drains away quickly. The ideal soil pH is neutral to slightly alkaline, roughly 6.5 to 7.5, but catmint is adaptable.

Space and Air Flow

Good air circulation prevents fungal diseases like powdery mildew, which can occasionally affect catmint in humid climates. When planting catmint plants, space them according to their mature width. For ‘Walker’s Low’ and similar large types, allow 24 to 30 inches between centers. For compact varieties like ‘Cat’s Pajamas,’ 12 to 18 inches is fine. Do not crowd them against buildings, fences, or dense shrubs. A little breathing room goes a long way.

When to Plant Catmint

Spring Planting Advantages

Spring is the classic time for planting catmint plants. The soil is warming up, rains are usually reliable, and the plant has a full growing season to establish roots before winter. Aim to plant after your last frost date, when the soil is workable and not soggy. In most regions, April through early June is ideal. Spring-planted catmint often blooms modestly in its first summer, then puts on a full show in year two.

Fall Planting Benefits

Fall is actually my preferred time for planting catmint plants, especially in zones 6 through 9. The soil is still warm from summer, which encourages rapid root growth. The air is cooler, reducing transplant stress. Rainfall is often more consistent. The plant focuses entirely on root development rather than top growth. By the time spring arrives, you have a well-established plant ready to explode with flowers. Plant at least six weeks before your ground freezes solid.

Avoiding Summer and Winter Planting

Summer planting is possible but requires diligent watering. The heat and sun can stress a new transplant severely. If you must plant in summer, do it on a cloudy day, water deeply, and provide temporary shade for a week. Winter planting is only feasible in the warmest zones (9-10) where the ground does not freeze. In cold climates, winter planting leads to heaving and root damage. Stick to spring or fall for the best results.

Step-by-Step Planting Process

Gather Your Tools and Materials

Before you start planting catmint plants, get everything ready. You will need a shovel or spade, a garden fork, a watering can or hose, compost or well-rotted manure, coarse sand or grit if your soil is heavy, and mulch. A pair of gardening gloves protects your hands. If you are planting several, a measuring tape helps with spacing. Having everything at hand makes the job smooth and enjoyable.

Prepare the Planting Hole

Dig a hole twice as wide as the plant’s root ball and just as deep. The wider hole loosens the surrounding soil, making it easy for new roots to spread horizontally. If your soil is compacted, use the garden fork to loosen the bottom and sides of the hole. Mix the excavated soil with about 25 percent compost. If drainage is questionable, add an equal part of coarse sand or fine gravel to the mix. Do not use fine sand; it can create a concrete-like texture in clay.

Remove the Plant from Its Pot

Water the catmint in its nursery pot an hour before planting. This reduces shock and helps the root ball hold together. Turn the pot on its side and gently slide the plant out. If it is root-bound, with roots circling the bottom, tease them apart with your fingers or make three or four vertical slices in the root ball with a knife. This sounds harsh, but it encourages roots to grow outward into the new soil rather than continuing to circle.

Position and Backfill

Place the plant in the hole so the top of the root ball sits level with the surrounding soil. Planting too deep buries the crown and invites rot. Planting too high exposes roots to air and drying out. Step back and check the plant’s orientation. Catmint often has a “front” side where growth is fuller. Face that toward the viewer. Backfill with your amended soil, firming gently with your hands as you go to eliminate large air pockets. Do not stomp with your feet; that compacts the soil too much.

Water Thoroughly

After planting catmint plants, water deeply. Apply water slowly so it soaks in rather than running off. You want to saturate the entire root zone and the surrounding backfilled soil. This settles the soil around the roots and ensures good contact. If the soil settles significantly, add a bit more backfill mix to bring it level again. A thorough initial watering is the single most important step for transplant success.

Apply Mulch

Spread a two-inch layer of mulch around the plant, keeping it a few inches away from the crown. Shredded bark, pine straw, or composted leaves all work well. Mulch conserves moisture, suppresses weeds, and moderates soil temperature. In winter, it helps prevent freeze-thaw cycles that can heave shallow-rooted perennials out of the ground. Do not pile mulch against the stems; that creates a moist highway for pests and diseases.

First Season Care: Getting Established

Watering Schedule for New Plants

The first growing season is critical. While established catmint is famously drought-tolerant, new plants have limited root systems. Water deeply twice a week for the first month, unless you get a good soaking rain. After that, reduce to once a week. Check the soil by sticking your finger in two inches. If it feels dry, water. If it feels moist, wait. The goal is to encourage roots to chase moisture downward, creating a deep, resilient system.

Fertilizing: Less Is More

Catmint thrives in lean soil. Too much fertilizer, especially nitrogen, produces lush, floppy growth with few flowers. When planting catmint plants, the compost you mixed into the backfill is usually enough for the first year. In subsequent springs, a light scattering of balanced organic fertilizer or a shovelful of compost around the base is plenty. Avoid high-nitrogen lawn fertilizers nearby. If your plant looks pale or stunted, a soil test will tell you what it actually needs.

Pinching for Bushier Growth

If your young catmint looks a bit leggy or sparse, pinch back the growing tips in late spring. Use your thumb and forefinger to snap off the top inch or two of each stem. This stimulates branching from lower nodes, creating a fuller, more compact plant with more flower spikes. Do this before flower buds form, typically in May. It delays blooming slightly but pays off with a better show.

Dealing with First-Year Flop

Some varieties, particularly ‘Walker’s Low’ and ‘Six Hills Giant,’ have a tendency to flop open in the center after their first big bloom, especially if grown in rich soil or partial shade. This is normal. After the first flush fades, shear the whole plant back by half. It looks drastic, but within two weeks you will see fresh, tidy growth and a new set of buds forming. This “Chelsea chop” technique keeps the plant looking great all season.

Long-Term Maintenance for Years of Blooms

The Art of Deadheading and Shearing

Deadheading individual spent flowers on catmint is tedious and unnecessary. Instead, use hedge shears or large scissors to shear the entire plant back by one-third to one-half after each major bloom cycle. This removes the spent spikes, tidies the foliage, and triggers a fresh flush of growth and flowers. You can do this two or three times a season. The plant responds beautifully. Stop shearing in early fall to let the plant harden off for winter.

Dividing Mature Clumps

After three to five years, the center of a catmint clump may become woody and die out, with all the vigorous growth on the outer edges. This is your signal to divide. The best times are early spring, just as new growth emerges, or early fall, at least six weeks before frost. Dig up the entire clump. Use a sharp spade or an old serrated knife to cut it into sections, each with healthy roots and several shoots. Discard the woody center. Replant the divisions immediately at the same depth, water well, and mulch. You just turned one plant into three or four.

Winter Care and Cleanup

In cold climates (zones 3-5), leave the dead foliage standing over winter. It catches snow, which insulates the crown, and provides shelter for beneficial insects. In late winter or early spring, before new growth starts, cut the old stems down to a few inches above the ground. In warmer zones, the plant may stay semi-evergreen. You can still trim it back in late winter to freshen the appearance. A light mulch after cleanup helps protect the crown in marginal zones.

Managing Pests and Diseases

Catmint is remarkably trouble-free. The aromatic oils that cats love repel most insect pests. Aphids occasionally cluster on tender new growth in spring. A strong blast of water or a spray of insecticidal soap handles them. Powdery mildew can appear in humid, crowded conditions with poor air flow. Prevention is the cure: space plants properly, water at the base rather than overhead, and shear to open the center. Root rot only happens in poorly drained soil. Fix the drainage, and the problem disappears.

Designing with Catmint in the Garden

Companion Planting Ideas

Catmint’s soft blue-lavender flowers and gray-green foliage pair beautifully with many plants. For a classic combination, plant it with roses. The catmint hides the bare legs of rose bushes and blooms at the same time. The blue contrasts gorgeously with pink, yellow, or white roses. Other great partners include salvia, coneflower (Echinacea), black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia), yarrow (Achillea), and ornamental grasses like fountain grass or blue fescue. The fine texture of catmint softens bold-leaved plants like hostas or bergenia in part-sun transitions.

Using Catmint as Edging and Ground Cover

Compact varieties like ‘Blue Wonder,’ ‘Cat’s Pajamas,’ or ‘Junior Walker’ make excellent edging plants along paths or the front of borders. They form a neat, low hedge of color. Space them 12 to 15 inches apart for a continuous line. Because they tolerate light foot traffic once established, they work well between stepping stones. For a larger-scale ground cover on a sunny slope, mass ‘Walker’s Low’ or ‘Six Hills Giant’ 24 inches apart. Their spreading habit and dense roots help control erosion.

Container Growing Success

Catmint thrives in containers, which is perfect if you have heavy clay soil or limited space. Choose a pot at least 12 inches wide and deep with drainage holes. Use a high-quality potting mix amended with perlite or coarse sand for extra drainage. Water when the top inch of soil feels dry. Fertilize lightly once a month with a balanced liquid fertilizer at half strength. In winter, move pots to an unheated garage or sheltered spot in cold zones, or sink the pot in the ground. Repot every two to three years in spring.

Catmint in Pollinator and Herb Gardens

If you are planting for pollinators, catmint is a superstar. Bees of all kinds, butterflies, and hummingbirds visit the flowers constantly. Plant it in drifts of three or five for maximum impact. In an herb garden, catmint fits right in with lavender, thyme, oregano, and sage. They share the same Mediterranean preferences: sun, lean soil, good drainage. The foliage can be harvested for tea. It has a mild, minty flavor with citrus notes and is traditionally used as a relaxing digestive aid. Dry the leaves in a single layer out of direct sun.

Troubleshooting Common Catmint Problems

Leggy, Floppy Growth

If your catmint grows tall, sparse, and falls over, it is usually getting too much shade, too much water, or too much fertilizer. Move it to a sunnier spot next spring. Stop fertilizing. Water less frequently but more deeply. Shear it back hard after the first bloom. If the variety is simply too tall for its spot, replace it with a compact cultivar. ‘Cat’s Meow’ and ‘Cat’s Pajamas’ were bred specifically to stay upright.

Yellowing Leaves

Yellow leaves often indicate overwatering or poor drainage. Check the soil. If it is soggy, you may need to lift the plant, amend the area with more grit, and replant higher. Yellowing can also mean nutrient deficiency, usually nitrogen or iron, but this is rare in catmint. A soil test removes the guesswork. In alkaline soils, iron can become unavailable, causing interveinal chlorosis (yellow leaves with green veins). Chelated iron spray provides a quick fix while you work on soil pH.

Center Die-Out

As mentioned, a dead center with a ring of growth around the outside means the plant needs division. This is not a disease; it is just the plant’s natural aging process. The center becomes woody and unproductive. Dig and divide in spring or fall. You will be amazed at how vigorous the divisions are. It rejuvenates the plant completely.

Lack of Flowers

If your catmint produces lots of leaves but few flowers, the culprit is usually insufficient sun or excess nitrogen. Move it to full sun. Stop using high-nitrogen fertilizer. Sometimes a plant that was sheared too late in the season (after July) will not have time to set buds for a fall bloom. Time your shearing for right after a flush finishes, typically June and again in late July. In very hot climates, catmint may take a summer siesta and bloom again in fall.

Propagation: Making More Plants for Free

Division: The Easiest Method

We covered division as maintenance, but it is also the primary way to propagate catmint. Because most named cultivars are sterile hybrids, they do not come true from seed. Division gives you an exact genetic copy of the parent plant. Do it in spring or fall. Water the plant well the day before. Dig, divide, replant. It is that simple. You can share divisions with friends or fill new beds.

Stem Cuttings in Summer

You can also root softwood cuttings in early summer. Take 4-inch cuttings from non-flowering shoots. Strip the lower leaves. Dip the cut end in rooting hormone (optional but helpful). Stick them in a pot of moist perlite or sand. Cover with a plastic bag to maintain humidity. Place in bright, indirect light. Roots form in two to three weeks. Pot them up and grow on for a month before planting out. This is a great way to produce many plants from one.

Seed Sowing: Species vs. Cultivars

If you grow the straight species Nepeta racemosa or Nepeta mussinii, they will come true from seed. Sow indoors 6-8 weeks before last frost or direct sow after frost. Barely cover the seeds; they need light to germinate. Keep moist. Germination takes 10-20 days. However, if you sow seeds from ‘Walker’s Low’ or other hybrids, the offspring will be variable. They may be taller, shorter, or different flower colors. For predictable results, stick with division or cuttings.

Seasonal Care Calendar

Spring: Wake Up and Clean Up

In early spring, cut back last year’s dead stems to 2-3 inches. Apply a thin layer of compost around the base. If the clump is old and woody in the center, divide it now. Water if spring is dry. Watch for the first flush of growth. Pinch tips if you want bushier plants. This is also a good time to plant new catmint.

Summer: Bloom and Shear

Enjoy the first big bloom in late spring to early summer. When it fades, shear the plant back by half. Water during extended dry spells. Watch for aphids on new growth. Enjoy the second bloom in mid to late summer. Shear again if you want a third flush. Stop shearing by early August in cold climates.

Fall: Prepare for Winter

Early fall is a great planting and dividing time. Stop fertilizing. Reduce watering as temperatures cool. Let the last blooms go to seed for winter interest and bird food. In warm climates, you may get sporadic blooms until frost. Do not cut back the foliage yet.

Winter: Rest and Protect

In cold zones, leave stems standing. Apply a light mulch after the ground freezes to prevent heaving. In warm zones, the plant may stay green. You can trim it lightly for appearance. Plan next year’s garden. Order new varieties in winter for spring planting.

Frequently Asked Questions About Catmint

Is catmint invasive?

No, modern catmint cultivars are sterile hybrids that do not set viable seed. They spread slowly by clumping, not by runners or seeds. They are well-behaved garden citizens. The straight species Nepeta cataria (catnip) can be aggressive, but that is a different plant.

Will catmint attract cats to my garden?

Catmint contains nepetalactone, the compound that affects cats, but in much lower concentrations than catnip. Some cats may rub on it or nibble it, but most ignore it. It will not turn your garden into a neighborhood cat hangout like catnip does.

Can I grow catmint indoors?

Catmint needs full sun and good air circulation, making it a poor long-term houseplant. It gets leggy and prone to pests indoors. You can overwinter a pot in a cool, bright window or under grow lights, but it will not thrive. It is much happier outside.

How long does catmint live?

With division every few years, a catmint planting can last indefinitely. Individual undivided clumps may decline after 4-6 years due to center die-out. Division resets the clock. I have clumps in my garden that are descendants of plants I put in 15 years ago.

Does catmint need staking?

Tall varieties like ‘Six Hills Giant’ may need support if grown in rich soil or part shade. In full sun and lean soil, they usually stand upright. Compact varieties never need staking. A peony ring or grow-through support installed early works if needed.

Can I eat catmint?

Yes, the leaves and flowers are edible. They make a pleasant, mild mint tea with citrus undertones. Use fresh or dried. Pregnant women should avoid medicinal quantities. As with any herb, try a small amount first to check for sensitivity.

Conclusion: A Plant That Gives Back

After years of gardening, I have learned to treasure plants that ask little and give much. Planting catmint plants is one of the smartest moves you can make in a sunny garden. You get months of lavender-blue blooms, fragrant foliage, a magnet for pollinators, and a plant that shrugs off heat, drought, and pests. It fits in formal borders, wild meadows, herb gardens, and containers. It plays well with roses, grasses, and native wildflowers. And if you ever need more, you just divide it.

Whether you choose the classic ‘Walker’s Low,’ the tidy ‘Cat’s Pajamas,’ or the towering ‘Six Hills Giant,’ the planting principles are the same. Sun. Drainage. Space. A little water to start. Then step back and watch the show. Shear it after bloom. Divide it when it gets woody. That is the whole secret. I hope this guide gives you the confidence to add catmint to your garden this season. Your bees, your butterflies, and your future self will thank you. Happy planting.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does catmint come back every year?

Yes, catmint is a hardy perennial that returns reliably each spring in USDA zones 3 through 8, and often in zone 9 with afternoon shade.

What is the difference between catmint and catnip?

Catmint (Nepeta x faassenii) is a sterile, ornamental hybrid with showy flowers, while catnip (Nepeta cataria) is a weedy species grown for cats.

Why is my catmint flopping over?

Flopping is usually caused by too much shade, rich soil, overwatering, or excess fertilizer. Shear it back and move to a sunnier, leaner spot.

Can catmint grow in clay soil?

Catmint struggles in heavy clay unless drainage is improved with grit and compost, or plants are grown in raised beds or mounds.

Is catmint deer resistant?

Yes, the aromatic foliage makes catmint highly deer and rabbit resistant, though no plant is completely proof against starving animals.

How do I divide catmint?

Dig up the clump in spring or fall, cut into sections with roots and shoots using a sharp spade, discard the woody center, and replant divisions.