How to Plant Walkers Low Catmint

Walkers Low Catmint is a drought-tolerant perennial that blooms lavender-blue flowers from spring to fall. This guide covers everything from site selection and soil prep to planting steps, watering schedules, and maintenance tips for healthy, long-lasting plants.

If you want a perennial that delivers months of color, handles heat like a champ, and asks for very little in return, Walkers Low Catmint should be at the top of your list. This cultivar of Nepeta x faassenii has earned its reputation as a garden workhorse. It forms neat mounds of gray-green foliage topped with spikes of lavender-blue flowers that keep coming from late spring straight through fall. Bees love it. Butterflies love it. Deer and rabbits? They walk right past it.

I first planted Walkers Low Catmint along a sunny driveway border where the soil was lean and the hose rarely reached. Three years later, those same plants are still going strong with almost zero effort on my part. That is the beauty of this plant. It thrives on neglect once established. But getting it off to the right start makes all the difference. Whether you are a first-time gardener or a seasoned pro looking for a reliable filler, this guide walks you through every step of planting and growing Walkers Low Catmint successfully.

Key Takeaways

• Choose full sun: Walkers Low Catmint needs at least six hours of direct sunlight daily for best flowering and compact growth.
• Well-draining soil is essential: Amend heavy clay with compost or grit to prevent root rot and ensure healthy establishment.
• Space plants 18 to 24 inches apart: Proper spacing allows air circulation and prevents fungal issues as the plant matures.
• Water deeply but infrequently: Once established, this perennial thrives on minimal water and prefers dry conditions over soggy soil.
• Shear after first bloom: Cutting back by one-third in midsummer encourages a second flush of flowers and tidy foliage.
• Divide every three to four years: Spring division rejuvenates older clumps and gives you free plants for other garden spots.
• Deer and rabbit resistant: The aromatic foliage naturally deters browsing animals, making it ideal for unfenced gardens.

Quick Answers to Common Questions

When is the best time to plant Walkers Low Catmint?

Spring and early fall are ideal. Spring gives roots all season to establish. Fall works in zones 5 and up if planted six weeks before ground freeze.

How much sun does Walkers Low Catmint need?

At least six hours of direct sun daily. Eight hours is better. Less sun leads to floppy growth and fewer flowers.

How far apart should I space Walkers Low Catmint plants?

Space 18 to 24 inches apart. This allows air circulation and room for the mature spread of 30 to 36 inches.

Do I need to fertilize Walkers Low Catmint?

No. Fertilizer makes it floppy. A light compost top-dressing every other year is plenty. Avoid high-nitrogen products.

How do I get a second bloom from Walkers Low Catmint?

Shear the whole plant back by one-third after the first heavy bloom fades in early July. This triggers fresh growth and flowers.

Understanding Walkers Low Catmint

What Makes This Cultivar Special

Walkers Low Catmint was discovered in the 1970s in a garden in Ireland. Despite the name, it does not stay particularly low. Mature plants reach 24 to 30 inches tall and spread 30 to 36 inches wide. The name actually comes from the garden where it was found, not its growth habit. It won the Perennial Plant Association’s Plant of the Year award in 2007, and for good reason. The flowers are a soft lavender-blue that pairs beautifully with roses, salvias, and ornamental grasses. The foliage releases a minty fragrance when brushed, which is why deer and rabbits avoid it.

Hardiness and Climate Adaptability

This catmint grows in USDA zones 3 through 8. It handles cold winters and hot, humid summers with equal grace. In the deep south, it may struggle a bit in extreme humidity but usually rebounds after a midseason trim. In northern zones, it dies back to the ground in winter and returns reliably each spring. If you garden in zone 9, you can still grow it with afternoon shade and excellent drainage, though it may be shorter-lived.

Growth Habit and Seasonal Interest

Walkers Low Catmint forms a loose, billowy mound. The stems are square, a trait of the mint family, and the leaves are small, toothed, and aromatic. Flowering begins in late May or early June in most regions. The first flush is the heaviest. After that, sporadic blooms continue until frost. In fall, the foliage often takes on a pleasant yellow hue before dying back. The dried seed heads add winter interest if you leave them standing.

Choosing the Perfect Planting Site

Sunlight Requirements

Full sun is non-negotiable for the best performance. Walkers Low Catmint needs a minimum of six hours of direct sun daily. Eight hours is even better. In partial shade, the plants become leggy, flop open in the center, and produce fewer flowers. If your only option is a spot with morning sun and afternoon shade, you will still get blooms, just not as many. Avoid deep shade entirely.

Soil Conditions and Drainage

This plant hates wet feet. The number one killer of Walkers Low Catmint is poor drainage, especially in winter. Sandy or gravelly soil is ideal. Loam works well too. Heavy clay is a problem unless you amend it. If water puddles in the planting area after rain, do not plant there until you improve drainage. A raised bed or berm solves this beautifully. The plant tolerates a wide pH range, from 6.0 to 7.5, so pH adjustments are rarely needed.

Space Planning and Companion Plants

Give each plant 18 to 24 inches of space in all directions. This allows air to circulate, reducing the risk of powdery mildew. In a mass planting, space them 24 inches apart on center. They will knit together into a continuous drift within two seasons. Good companions include Salvia nemorosa, Echinacea, Perovskia, Achillea, and ornamental grasses like Pennisetum or Schizachyrium. The blue flowers also look stunning under yellow roses or beside orange daylilies.

Preparing the Soil Before Planting

Testing and Amending

Before you dig, check your soil drainage. Dig a hole 12 inches deep and fill it with water. If it drains in under an hour, you are good. If it takes several hours, amend heavily with coarse sand, fine gravel, or compost. Mix amendments into the top 12 inches of soil. Do not just fill the planting hole with amended soil. That creates a bathtub effect where water collects around the roots. Improve the whole bed instead.

Adding Organic Matter

Walkers Low Catmint does not need rich soil. In fact, too much fertility makes it floppy. A modest amount of compost, about two inches worked into the top six inches of soil, is plenty. This improves structure without overfeeding. Avoid manure-based composts. They can be too high in nitrogen. Leaf mold or mushroom compost are excellent choices.

Creating a Planting Hole

Dig the hole twice as wide as the root ball but no deeper. The top of the root ball should sit level with the surrounding soil. If you plant too deep, the crown stays wet and rots. If you plant too high, the roots dry out. Rough up the sides of the hole with your shovel. Smooth walls can act like a clay pot, discouraging roots from venturing out.

Step-by-Step Planting Instructions

Timing Your Planting

Spring and early fall are the best times to plant Walkers Low Catmint. Spring planting gives roots all season to establish before winter. Fall planting works well in zones 5 and warmer, provided you plant at least six weeks before the ground freezes. Avoid planting in the heat of midsummer unless you can water diligently. Container-grown plants can technically go in any time the ground is workable, but they establish faster in cool weather.

Removing the Plant from Its Pot

Water the plant thoroughly an hour before planting. This reduces transplant shock and makes the root ball slide out easier. Turn the pot on its side and gently squeeze the sides. If it resists, run a knife around the inside edge. Never pull the plant by its stems. Once free, inspect the roots. If they are circling the bottom, tease them apart with your fingers. Make a few vertical slices an inch deep with a knife if the root ball is severely pot-bound. This encourages outward growth.

Setting the Plant and Backfilling

Place the plant in the center of the hole. Check the depth. The soil line of the root ball should match the garden soil line. Adjust by adding or removing soil from the bottom. Once level, backfill with the native soil you removed. Do not amend the backfill. Tamp gently with your hands as you go to eliminate air pockets. Do not stomp with your foot. That compacts the soil too much.

Watering In and Mulching

Water thoroughly after planting. Use a gentle stream to settle the soil around the roots. Apply a two-inch layer of mulch around the plant, keeping it two inches away from the stems. Shredded bark, pine straw, or gravel all work well. Gravel is especially good in humid climates because it does not hold moisture against the crown. Mulch conserves moisture, suppresses weeds, and moderates soil temperature.

Watering and Establishment Care

The First Two Weeks

Newly planted Walkers Low Catmint needs consistent moisture. Water every two to three days if there is no rain. Check the soil with your finger. If the top inch is dry, water. The goal is to keep the root zone evenly moist, not soggy. Overwatering is just as dangerous as underwatering during establishment.

Weaning Off Supplemental Water

After two weeks, stretch the interval to every four to five days. By week six, water once a week deeply. By week eight, the plant should be established enough to rely on rainfall in most climates. The key is deep, infrequent watering. This trains roots to chase moisture downward, making the plant more drought-tolerant. Frequent shallow watering creates shallow roots that fry in summer heat.

Signs of Overwatering and Underwatering

Yellowing lower leaves and mushy stems signal too much water. Wilting that does not recover by morning, crispy leaf edges, and stunted growth mean too little. Walkers Low Catmint is forgiving. It will usually bounce back from a dry spell once watered. Recovery from root rot is much harder. When in doubt, let it dry out a bit.

Ongoing Maintenance for Years of Blooms

Deadheading and Shearing

You do not have to deadhead individual flowers. That would be tedious. Instead, shear the whole plant back by one-third after the first heavy bloom fades, usually in early July. Use hedge shears or sharp pruners. This removes spent flowers, tidies the foliage, and triggers a fresh flush of growth and buds. You will get a second show in August that often lasts until frost. If you skip this step, the plant looks rangy and blooms sparsely the rest of the season.

Fertilizing: Less Is More

Walkers Low Catmint does not need fertilizer. In rich soil, it grows tall and flops. If your soil is very poor, a light application of balanced slow-release fertilizer in early spring is fine. Think one tablespoon per plant. Better yet, top-dress with an inch of compost every other year. That feeds the soil, not just the plant. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers. They produce lush leaves at the expense of flowers.

Dividing Mature Clumps

Every three to four years, the center of the plant may die out, leaving a ring of growth. This is your cue to divide. Do it in early spring just as new growth appears. Dig up the whole clump. Use a sharp spade or knife to cut it into sections, each with roots and shoots. Discard the woody center. Replant the divisions immediately at the same depth. Water well. They will bloom that same year.

Winter Care

In zones 3 through 6, leave the dead foliage standing over winter. It insulates the crown and provides habitat for beneficial insects. Cut it back to the ground in early spring before new growth starts. In zones 7 and 8, you can cut back in late fall if you prefer a tidy look. A light mulch of straw or evergreen boughs helps in the coldest zones, especially the first winter after planting.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

Flopping and Leggy Growth

If your Walkers Low Catmint flops open in the center, it usually means too much shade, too much water, or too much fertilizer. Move it to a sunnier spot next spring. Stop fertilizing. Shear it back hard after the first bloom. Staking is rarely needed if you shear regularly. Some gardeners use a peony ring placed early in the season for support.

Powdery Mildew

This fungal disease appears as white powder on leaves. It thrives in humid conditions with poor air circulation. Prevention is easier than cure. Space plants properly. Water at the base, not overhead. Shear after blooming to open up the center. If mildew appears, remove affected leaves. A spray of one part milk to nine parts water applied weekly can slow the spread. Severe cases may need a copper-based fungicide.

Root Rot

Wilting despite moist soil, blackened roots, and a foul smell indicate root rot. This happens in poorly drained soil. There is no cure for advanced cases. Dig the plant, trim away rotted roots, dust with sulfur, and replant in a better-drained location or a raised bed. Prevention through proper site selection and soil prep is your best strategy.

Pests: Rare but Possible

Aphids sometimes cluster on new growth. Blast them off with a hose. Spider mites appear in hot, dry weather. Increase humidity with occasional overhead watering in the morning. Cats may roll on young plants. If this is a problem, lay chicken wire over the plant until it toughens up. The good news? Deer, rabbits, and groundhogs almost never touch Walkers Low Catmint.

Design Ideas and Landscape Uses

Border Edging and Pathway Softening

Plant Walkers Low Catmint along the front of a sunny border. Its mounding habit softens hard edges. The lavender-blue flowers create a cooling effect next to hot colors. Space plants 18 inches apart for a continuous hedge effect. They stay neat enough for formal gardens but relaxed enough for cottage styles.

Rock Gardens and Slopes

The drought tolerance and love of lean soil make this catmint perfect for rock gardens and sunny slopes. Plant it among stones where its roots can run deep. It holds soil on gentle slopes and cascades beautifully over retaining walls. Pair with sedums, thyme, and dwarf conifers for a tapestry effect.

Pollinator and Wildlife Gardens

Bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds visit Walkers Low Catmint constantly. Plant it in drifts of five or more for maximum pollinator appeal. Combine with Echinacea, Asclepias, Monarda, and Liatris for a season-long nectar source. The aromatic foliage also supports beneficial predatory insects that keep pests in check.

Container Growing

You can grow Walkers Low Catmint in pots. Use a container at least 16 inches wide and deep. Fill with a gritty mix: two parts potting soil, one part perlite or coarse sand. Water when the top two inches are dry. Fertilize once in spring with slow-release granules. Overwinter in an unheated garage in zones 5 and colder. Repot every two years.

Propagation Methods

Division

As mentioned, division is the easiest and most reliable method. Do it in spring. You get instant plants that are true to type. Divisions establish faster than cuttings or seedlings.

Stem Cuttings

Take four-inch cuttings from non-flowering shoots in late spring or early summer. Strip the lower leaves. Dip the cut end in rooting hormone. Stick in a pot of moist perlite or sand. Cover with a plastic bag to maintain humidity. Place in bright, indirect light. Roots form in three to four weeks. Harden off and transplant.

Seed

Walkers Low Catmint does not come true from seed. Seedlings will vary. If you want to experiment, collect seeds in fall. Cold stratify for four weeks in the fridge. Sow indoors in late winter. Transplant outdoors after frost. Most gardeners buy plants or divide instead.

Buying Healthy Plants

What to Look For at the Nursery

Choose plants with sturdy stems, healthy green-gray foliage, and no yellowing leaves. Check the root ball. It should hold together but not be a solid mat of circling roots. Avoid plants with weeds growing in the pot. That signals poor nursery care. If flowers are present, that is fine, but younger plants without blooms often establish faster because they put energy into roots first.

Mail-Order Tips

Reputable online nurseries ship bare-root or in small pots. Order for spring delivery. Open the box immediately. Water if dry. Plant within two days. If you must wait, keep in a sheltered spot out of direct sun and wind. Bare-root plants should be soaked for an hour before planting.

Cost Considerations

Quart pots cost $8 to $12. Gallon pots run $15 to $25. Since you need multiple plants for a drift, costs add up. Buying smaller pots and waiting a year saves money. Dividing your own plants after three years gives you free plants forever. A single gallon plant can yield six divisions in four years.

Conclusion

Planting Walkers Low Catmint is one of the smartest moves you can make in a sunny garden. It gives you months of color, feeds pollinators, resists pests, and asks for almost nothing in return. The keys to success are simple. Full sun. Sharp drainage. Proper spacing. A good start with consistent watering. An annual shear in midsummer. That is it. No fussy pruning schedules. No special fertilizers. No constant deadheading.

I have watched this plant thrive in clay amended with gravel, in sandy soil beside a driveway, and in a raised bed with roses. It adapts. It endures. And it looks good doing it. Whether you plant three or thirty, Walkers Low Catmint will become a backbone of your garden. The kind of plant you recommend to friends. The kind you divide and share. The kind that makes you look like a better gardener than you are. So pick a sunny spot, grab your shovel, and get planting. Your bees will thank you. Your back will thank you. And every time you walk past that cloud of lavender-blue, you will be glad you did.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Walkers Low Catmint invasive?

No, Walkers Low Catmint is a sterile hybrid that does not self-seed aggressively. It spreads slowly by clumping and stays where you plant it. It is not considered invasive in any region.

Can Walkers Low Catmint grow in shade?

It tolerates light shade but performs poorly in deep shade. Expect fewer flowers, leggy stems, and increased risk of powdery mildew. Full sun is strongly recommended for best results.

Why is my Walkers Low Catmint flopping open in the middle?

Flopping usually indicates too much shade, overwatering, or excess fertilizer. Shear it back after the first bloom, ensure full sun, and stop fertilizing. Division every few years also prevents center die-out.

Does Walkers Low Catmint attract cats like catnip?

It contains nepetalactone but in much lower concentrations than true catnip (Nepeta cataria). Some cats may show mild interest, but most ignore it. It is not a cat magnet like catnip.

How do I overwinter Walkers Low Catmint in containers?

In zones 5 and colder, move pots to an unheated garage or shed after dormancy. Water once a month to prevent desiccation. In zones 6 and up, they can often stay outdoors in a sheltered spot.

Can I grow Walkers Low Catmint from seed?

You can, but it will not come true to type. Seedlings vary in height, flower color, and habit. For reliable results, buy plants or divide existing clumps. Named cultivars like Walkers Low are propagated vegetatively.