Low Growing Catmint Plants

Low growing catmint plants offer beautiful lavender-blue flowers and aromatic foliage in a compact form perfect for borders and rock gardens. These drought-tolerant perennials bloom for months with minimal care, attracting pollinators while resisting deer and rabbits.

Key Takeaways

• Compact varieties exist: Several catmint cultivars stay under 18 inches tall, making them ideal for front-of-border planting and small spaces.
• Long bloom season: Most low growing catmint plants flower from late spring through fall with proper deadheading.
• Drought tolerant once established: These Mediterranean natives thrive in dry, sunny conditions after their first growing season.
• Pollinator magnets: Bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds flock to the nectar-rich flowers all season long.
• Deer and rabbit resistant: The aromatic foliage contains compounds that deter browsing animals naturally.
• Easy propagation: Divide clumps in spring or take softwood cuttings in early summer to expand your planting.
• Versatile design uses: Works beautifully in rock gardens, herb gardens, cottage borders, and as edging along pathways.

Quick Answers to Common Questions

What is the shortest catmint variety?

‘Kit Cat’ is the shortest widely available catmint, reaching only 8-10 inches tall and 12 inches wide.

Do low growing catmint plants spread aggressively?

No, they spread slowly by short underground stems and are not invasive like true mints.

When should I cut back catmint for a second bloom?

Shear plants back by one-third to one-half in early July after the first heavy flush finishes.

Can catmint grow in clay soil?

Only if amended with coarse sand or gravel for drainage, or planted on a berm. Wet clay causes crown rot.

Are catmint flowers edible?

Yes, the flowers are edible with a mild mint flavor, suitable for salads and garnishes.

Why Gardeners Love Low Growing Catmint Plants

If you have ever walked past a sunny garden border in June and noticed a soft haze of lavender-blue flowers buzzing with bees, chances are you were looking at catmint. These charming perennials have earned a devoted following among gardeners for good reason. They bloom for months, ask for very little, and bring a relaxed, cottage-garden feel to any planting scheme.

While the classic catmint Nepeta x faassenii ‘Walker’s Low’ reaches two to three feet tall, many gardeners need something more compact. Maybe you have a narrow bed along a walkway. Maybe you garden in containers on a patio. Maybe you simply prefer a tidy mound that won’t flop over neighboring plants. That is where low growing catmint plants shine. They deliver all the charm of their taller cousins in a neat package that stays put.

Understanding the Catmint Family

What Exactly Is Catmint?

Catmint belongs to the genus Nepeta, a member of the mint family Lamiaceae. Like their culinary cousins, these plants have square stems, opposite leaves, and a distinctive aroma when crushed. But do not confuse catmint with catnip (Nepeta cataria). Catnip is the one that sends felines into ecstatic rolls. Catmint contains much less of the compound nepetalactone, so while cats may show mild interest, they generally leave the plants alone.

Most garden catmints are hybrids derived from species native to Europe, Asia, and North Africa. They evolved in rocky, well-drained soils with hot summers and cold winters. This heritage explains their toughness. Once established, they laugh at drought, shrug off poor soil, and bloom tirelessly in full sun.

Growth Habits and Forms

Catmints generally form mounding clumps of aromatic gray-green foliage. From late spring onward, they send up spikes of small, tubular flowers in shades of lavender, blue, pink, or white. The flowering period is remarkably long, often stretching from May through September with a brief pause in midsummer heat.

Height varies dramatically among cultivars. The tallest reach three feet or more. Mid-sized types settle around eighteen to twenty-four inches. And then there are the low growing catmint plants, compact selections that stay twelve to eighteen inches tall and wide. These dwarf forms result from careful breeding and selection, offering the same flower power in a smaller footprint.

Top Low Growing Catmint Varieties

‘Blue Wonder’ – The Reliable Classic

Nepeta ‘Blue Wonder’ (sometimes sold as ‘Blauwonder’) has been a garden staple for decades. It forms a dense mound twelve to fifteen inches tall and eighteen inches wide. The flowers are a rich lavender-blue, slightly larger than those of many other varieties. Bloom starts in late May and continues heavily into July, with a lighter rebloom in fall if you shear the plant back after the first flush.

This variety is exceptionally cold hardy, thriving in USDA zones 3 through 8. It tolerates heat better than many catmints, making it a good choice for southern gardens where taller types might melt out in humidity. The foliage stays attractive all season, resisting the browning that plagues some cultivars in midsummer.

‘Kit Cat’ – Tiny but Mighty

If you need a truly miniature catmint, ‘Kit Cat’ delivers. This selection reaches only eight to ten inches tall and spreads to about twelve inches. Do not let the small stature fool you. Flower production is prolific, covering the plant in soft blue blossoms from late spring through early summer. A quick shear after the first bloom encourages a tidy second flush.

‘Kit Cat’ excels in rock gardens, trough plantings, and the front edge of borders. It also performs beautifully in containers, where its compact habit prevents it from overwhelming companions. The foliage is particularly fine-textured and aromatic, releasing a pleasant minty scent when brushed.

‘Little Titch’ – The British Gem

Introduced from the United Kingdom, ‘Little Titch’ forms a perfect dome ten to twelve inches high and wide. The name comes from British slang for a small person, and it suits this diminutive plant perfectly. Flowers are a clear, soft blue that reads well from a distance. Bloom begins in early June and continues sporadically all summer without deadheading.

This variety shows excellent resistance to powdery mildew, a fungal disease that sometimes affects catmints in humid climates. The foliage remains clean and silver-green throughout the growing season. ‘Little Titch’ earned the Royal Horticultural Society’s Award of Garden Merit, a testament to its garden worthiness.

‘Junior Walker’ – A Compact Sport

‘Junior Walker’ originated as a natural mutation of the popular ‘Walker’s Low.’ It retains the same lavender-blue flowers and gray-green foliage but tops out at fifteen to eighteen inches. The habit is notably upright and mounded, less prone to the center-opening that sometimes afflicts the parent plant.

This variety blooms heavily in late spring, takes a brief rest in July heat, then rebounds with a strong fall display. It is sterile, meaning it will not self-seed around the garden. For gardeners who love ‘Walker’s Low’ but lack the space, ‘Junior Walker’ is an ideal substitute.

‘Purrsian Blue’ – The New Contender

Released by Walters Gardens in 2017, ‘Purrsian Blue’ has quickly gained fans. It forms a tight, rounded clump fourteen to eighteen inches tall and eighteen to twenty-four inches wide. The flowers are a saturated periwinkle blue, darker than most catmints, held on dark calyces that extend the color show even after petals drop.

What sets ‘Purrsian Blue’ apart is its bloom duration. In trials, it flowered continuously from early June into October with no deadheading required. The plant maintains a neat habit without flopping, even in rich soil. It also shows superior heat and humidity tolerance, performing well in the Southeast where catmints often struggle.

‘Cat’s Pajamas’ – Early and Often

Another Walters Gardens introduction, ‘Cat’s Pajamas’ blooms two to three weeks earlier than most catmints, often starting in mid-May. The plant reaches twelve to fourteen inches tall and eighteen to twenty inches wide. Flowers are a vibrant indigo blue with rosy purple calyces, creating a bicolor effect.

This variety is notable for its dense, bushy habit. The flower spikes are held just above the foliage, creating a solid dome of color. Like ‘Purrsian Blue,’ it reblooms reliably without intervention. The foliage is exceptionally fragrant, releasing strong mint scent on warm days.

Growing Conditions for Success

Sun Requirements

Low growing catmint plants demand full sun. They need at least six hours of direct sunlight daily, and eight is even better. In partial shade, plants become leggy, flower production drops dramatically, and stems flop open. The center of the clump may die out, leaving an unsightly bare spot.

If your garden offers only morning sun or dappled light, consider alternatives like lady’s mantle (Alchemilla mollis) or hardy geraniums. Catmint simply will not thrive without abundant light. This makes it perfect for south-facing borders, west-facing foundations, and open island beds.

Soil Preferences

Sharp drainage is non-negotiable. Catmints evolved in gritty, lean soils. Heavy clay that stays wet in winter will rot the crowns. If you garden on clay, amend generously with coarse sand, fine gravel, or expanded shale. Raised beds and berms also improve drainage.

Soil fertility should be low to moderate. Rich, heavily amended soil produces lush foliage at the expense of flowers. It also encourages floppy growth. A lean, slightly alkaline soil with a pH between 6.5 and 7.5 is ideal. If your soil is strongly acidic, add lime at planting time.

Watering Wisely

New plants need regular water during their first growing season to establish deep roots. Water deeply once a week, more often in extreme heat. After the first year, low growing catmint plants are remarkably drought tolerant. In most climates, established plants need supplemental water only during prolonged dry spells.

Overwatering is far more dangerous than underwatering. Wet crowns invite root rot and fungal diseases. Water at the base of the plant, keeping foliage dry. Drip irrigation or soaker hoses work well. If you use overhead sprinklers, run them early in the day so leaves dry quickly.

Temperature and Hardiness

Most low growing catmint plants are hardy in USDA zones 3 through 8. Some varieties, particularly ‘Blue Wonder’ and ‘Little Titch,’ handle zone 3 winters with reliable snow cover. In zones 9 and 10, catmints may struggle with summer humidity and lack of winter chill. They often perform as short-lived perennials or annuals in the deep South.

Heat tolerance varies among cultivars. The newer introductions like ‘Purrsian Blue’ and ‘Cat’s Pajamas’ were bred specifically for better performance in hot, humid climates. If you garden in the Southeast or Midwest, these are your best bets.

Planting and Establishment

When to Plant

Spring planting gives catmints the longest possible season to establish before winter. Aim to plant after the last frost date when soil has warmed to at least 50°F. Fall planting works well in zones 6 and warmer, provided you plant at least six weeks before the ground freezes. This allows roots to settle in before dormancy.

Avoid planting during the heat of midsummer. If you must plant in July or August, provide temporary shade and water diligently. Container-grown plants can technically go in the ground any time the soil is workable, but spring and fall give the best results with least effort.

Spacing Guidelines

Space low growing catmint plants according to their mature width. Most compact varieties spread eighteen to twenty-four inches. Plant them on eighteen-inch centers for a quick fill, or twenty-four inches if you prefer distinct mounds with visible soil between. For edging a path, space plants twelve to fifteen inches apart to create a continuous line.

Remember that catmints spread slowly by underground stems. They are not aggressive runners like true mints, but a single plant will widen over time. Plan for this expansion when designing your layout. Divide clumps every three to four years to maintain vigor and control spread.

Planting Technique

Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball but no deeper. Loosen the soil at the bottom and sides. If your soil is heavy, mix in coarse grit or perlite at a ratio of one part amendment to three parts native soil. Do not add compost, manure, or fertilizer to the planting hole. Catmints prefer lean conditions.

Remove the plant from its pot and gently tease apart any circling roots. Set the plant so the crown sits at soil level or slightly above. Backfill with amended soil, firming gently to eliminate air pockets. Water thoroughly to settle the soil. Apply a thin layer of gravel mulch or coarse sand around the base, keeping it away from the crown.

Ongoing Care and Maintenance

Deadheading and Shearing

Deadheading individual spent flowers is tedious on catmints because the spikes bloom progressively from bottom to top. A better approach is shearing. After the first heavy bloom flush finishes, usually in early July, cut the entire plant back by one-third to one-half. Use hedge shears or handheld grass shears for speed.

This hard cutback accomplishes several things. It removes tired, possibly mildewed foliage. It prevents the plant from setting seed, redirecting energy into new growth. And it stimulates a fresh flush of basal shoots that will bloom in late summer and fall. The plant looks rough for a week or two, then rebounds with clean foliage and abundant flowers.

If you prefer a lighter touch, simply shear off the spent flower spikes, leaving the foliage mound intact. This works well for varieties like ‘Purrsian Blue’ that rebloom without a hard cut. In any case, stop deadheading by early September to allow the plant to harden off before winter.

Dividing Clumps

Every three to four years, the center of a catmint clump may become woody and less productive. Spring is the ideal time to divide. Dig up the entire plant as new growth emerges. Use a sharp spade or knife to cut the clump into sections, each with healthy roots and several shoots. Discard the woody center.

Replant divisions immediately at the same depth they grew previously. Water well and mulch with gravel. Divisions may look sparse the first year but will fill in quickly. Fall division works in mild climates but risks winter loss in colder zones.

Fertilizing – Less Is More

Low growing catmint plants rarely need fertilizer. In fact, feeding produces weak, floppy growth and fewer flowers. If your soil is extremely poor or you see yellowing leaves, apply a light scattering of balanced organic fertilizer in early spring. A half-inch layer of compost around the base (not touching the crown) is plenty.

Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers. They promote leafy growth at the expense of blooms. If you mulch with wood chips or bark, the decomposition may tie up nitrogen. In that case, a light feed in spring can help. But in most gardens, catmints thrive on neglect.

Winter Care

In cold climates, leave the dead foliage standing over winter. It catches snow, insulating the crown. The dried stems also provide shelter for beneficial insects. Cut back to the ground in early spring before new growth emerges.

In wet winter climates, consider a gravel mulch to keep excess moisture off the crown. A cloche or cold frame can protect marginally hardy varieties in zone 3. Container-grown catmints need protection in zones 6 and colder. Move pots to an unheated garage or bury them in the ground for winter.

Design Ideas and Companion Plants

Front of the Border

Low growing catmint plants excel at the front of sunny borders. Their mounded habit creates a soft edge that spills gracefully onto paths or lawn. Plant them in drifts of three, five, or seven for maximum impact. The lavender-blue flowers bridge warm and cool colors, harmonizing with almost any palette.

Pair catmint with roses for a classic combination. The catmint hides the bare knees of rose bushes while attracting beneficial insects that prey on rose pests. Other excellent companions include salvias, penstemons, coreopsis, and dwarf coneflowers. The silver foliage echoes lamb’s ears (Stachys byzantina) and artemisias.

Rock Gardens and Gravel Beds

The natural habitat of catmint species is rocky slopes and scree. Recreate this in a rock garden or gravel bed. Plant among stones, letting the mounds soften hard edges. The gray-green foliage looks right at home with sedums, sempervivums, and dwarf ornamental grasses like blue fescue (Festuca glauca).

Gravel mulch is ideal for catmints. It reflects heat, improves drainage, and prevents soil splash on the foliage. Use pea gravel, crushed granite, or chicken grit. Avoid organic mulches that retain moisture against the crown.

Herb and Kitchen Gardens

Catmint belongs in the herb garden both for its aromatic foliage and its pollinator appeal. Plant it near tomatoes, peppers, and squash to attract bees for better fruit set. The flowers are edible, adding a mild mint flavor to salads and desserts. Leaves can be dried for tea, though they are less potent than true mint.

Good herb companions include thyme, oregano, lavender, and sage. All share similar cultural needs: full sun, lean soil, sharp drainage. Group them together in a dedicated herb bed or interplant with vegetables.

Containers and Window Boxes

Compact catmints thrive in containers. Choose a pot at least twelve inches wide and deep with excellent drainage holes. Use a gritty potting mix: two parts coarse sand or perlite to one part quality potting soil. Do not use moisture-retentive mixes with water-holding crystals.

Container plants need more frequent watering than in-ground plants. Check daily in hot weather. Fertilize lightly once in spring with a slow-release balanced fertilizer. Overwinter pots in a protected location in cold climates. ‘Kit Cat,’ ‘Little Titch,’ and ‘Cat’s Pajamas’ are especially suited to container culture.

Pathway Edging

Few plants edge a sunny path as beautifully as low growing catmint. The mounds spill over the edge, softening hard lines and releasing fragrance when brushed. Plant twelve to fifteen inches apart for a continuous hedge effect. Shear lightly after the first bloom to keep the edge neat.

This placement also makes maintenance easy. You can deadhead, shear, and divide without stepping into beds. The flowers are at nose level for enjoying the scent. And pollinators put on a show right alongside your daily walk.

Common Problems and Solutions

Flopping and Center Opening

Even compact catmints can flop open in the center if grown in rich soil, too much shade, or without regular shearing. The solution is prevention. Plant in lean soil and full sun. Shear after the first bloom to encourage dense basal growth. If a plant already flops, cut it back hard in early summer. It will regrow tighter.

Some gardeners use peony rings or grow-through supports placed early in the season. This keeps the mound upright without visible stakes. For a natural look, plant catmint among sturdy companions like dwarf Russian sage (Perovskia ‘Little Spire’) that provide physical support.

Powdery Mildew

Powdery mildew appears as a white, powdery coating on leaves, usually in late summer during humid weather. It rarely kills the plant but looks unsightly. Prevention starts with spacing for good air circulation. Avoid overhead watering. Choose resistant varieties like ‘Little Titch,’ ‘Purrsian Blue,’ and ‘Cat’s Pajamas.’

If mildew appears, remove affected leaves. A spray of one tablespoon baking soda plus one teaspoon horticultural oil per gallon of water can slow the spread. But the best remedy is the July shear. Removing the old foliage eliminates the infection source and stimulates clean new growth.

Root and Crown Rot

Rot is the number one killer of catmints. Symptoms include wilting despite moist soil, yellowing leaves, and a mushy crown. The cause is almost always poor drainage or overwatering. Once rot sets in, the plant is usually lost.

Prevention is everything. Plant in well-drained soil. Use gravel mulch. Water deeply but infrequently. Never irrigate on a schedule; check soil moisture first. In heavy clay, plant on a berm or in a raised bed. If a plant shows early signs, dig it up, trim away rotted roots, dust with fungicide, and replant in a better location.

Pests – Rare but Possible

Catmints are notably pest-free. Deer and rabbits avoid them due to the aromatic oils. Aphids occasionally cluster on new growth in spring. A strong blast of water or insecticidal soap handles them. Spider mites may appear in hot, dry weather, especially on stressed plants. Regular watering and humidity prevent outbreaks.

Cats may roll on young plants, flattening them. If this is a problem, place a few twigs or a wire cage over new plantings until they establish. Once the plant is full-sized, cats rarely cause damage.

Propagation Methods

Division

Division is the easiest and most reliable way to propagate low growing catmint plants. Do it in spring as new growth emerges. Dig the clump, cut into sections with a sharp knife or spade, and replant immediately. Each division needs roots and at least three to five shoots. Water well and shade for a few days if the weather is hot.

Divisions flower the same year, often reaching full size by fall. This method also rejuvenates old plants. Plan to divide every three to four years as routine maintenance.

Softwood Cuttings

Take cuttings in late spring or early summer from non-flowering shoots. Cut four to six inch tips, remove lower leaves, and dip the cut end in rooting hormone. Stick in a gritty mix of half perlite, half peat or coir. Cover with a plastic dome or bag to maintain humidity. Place in bright, indirect light.

Roots form in three to four weeks. Gradually acclimate to lower humidity. Pot up and grow on for a month before planting out. Cuttings produce genetic clones of the parent, ensuring you get the exact variety characteristics.

Seed – With Caveats

Species catmints come true from seed. But named cultivars are hybrids that will not breed true. Seedlings from ‘Walker’s Low’ or ‘Purrsian Blue’ will vary in height, flower color, and habit. If you want a specific variety, buy plants or propagate vegetatively.

That said, growing catmint from seed can be fun. Sow indoors six to eight weeks before last frost, or direct sow in spring. Barely cover seeds; they need light to germinate. Keep moist at 65 to 70°F. Germination takes seven to twenty-one days. Transplant seedlings after frost danger passes.

Seasonal Care Calendar

Spring (March – May)

• Cut back dead foliage to ground level as new growth appears
• Divide crowded clumps every 3-4 years
• Plant new catmints after last frost
• Apply light compost mulch if soil is very poor
• Watch for aphids on new growth

Summer (June – August)

• Enjoy first heavy bloom flush in June
• Shear plants back by 1/3 to 1/2 after first bloom ends (early July)
• Water deeply during extended drought
• Monitor for powdery mildew in humid weather
• Take softwood cuttings for propagation

Fall (September – November)

• Enjoy second bloom flush on reblooming varieties
• Stop deadheading by early September
• Reduce watering as temperatures cool
• Plant new catmints in zones 6+ (6 weeks before freeze)
• Leave foliage standing for winter protection

Winter (December – February)

• No active care needed in most climates
• Check container plants in unheated garage; water monthly if dry
• Brush heavy snow off plants to prevent breakage
• Plan next year’s additions and divisions
• Order new varieties for spring planting

Frequently Asked Questions

Will catmint attract cats to my garden?

Catmint contains much less nepetalactone than catnip. Most cats show little interest beyond an occasional sniff or brief roll. Neighborhood cats are unlikely to be drawn to your garden specifically for catmint. If you have a particularly cat-sensitive feline, ‘Kit Cat’ and ‘Little Titch’ have the lowest nepetalactone levels.

Can I grow catmint in shade?

No. Catmint requires full sun, defined as at least six hours of direct sunlight daily. In shade, plants become leggy, flower poorly, and are prone to powdery mildew and crown rot. For shady spots, consider alternatives like Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa), coral bells (Heuchera), or lungwort (Pulmonaria).

How long do catmint plants live?

With proper care and regular division, catmints can live ten years or more. Without division, the center of the clump often dies out after four to six years, leaving a ring of growth. Division every three to four years resets the clock and maintains vigor indefinitely.

Is catmint invasive?

Garden catmints (Nepeta x faassenii and similar hybrids) are clump-formers that spread slowly by short underground stems. They are not aggressive runners like true mints (Mentha species). Some species catmints, particularly Nepeta cataria (catnip), can self-seed prolifically. Deadhead hybrids to prevent any volunteer seedlings.

Can I grow catmint indoors?

Catmint is not a good houseplant. It needs intense light, excellent air circulation, and a winter dormancy period. Indoors, it becomes leggy, attracts spider mites, and rarely flowers. If you want aromatic foliage indoors, grow true mint (Mentha) or basil instead.

Why is my catmint not blooming?

The most common reasons: insufficient sun (needs 6+ hours), too much fertilizer (especially nitrogen), overwatering, or the plant needs division. Young plants may not bloom heavily their first year. Established plants that stop blooming usually need a hard shear in early summer to stimulate new flower buds.

Conclusion

Low growing catmint plants offer something rare in the perennial world: months of color, fragrance, and pollinator activity in a tidy, well-behaved package. Whether you choose the time-tested ‘Blue Wonder,’ the miniature ‘Kit Cat,’ or one of the exciting new introductions like ‘Purrsian Blue,’ you are getting a plant that punches far above its weight class.

Success comes down to three things: full sun, sharp drainage, and an annual shear. Provide these, and your catmints will reward you with wave after wave of lavender-blue flowers from late spring until frost. They ask for so little and give so much. In a gardening world full of divas, catmint is the reliable friend who always shows up, looks great, and never complains.

Start with one or two plants in a sunny spot. Watch the bees arrive. Smell the minty fragrance on a warm afternoon. See how the soft mounds knit together into a living mulch that suppresses weeds and delights the eye. Before long, you will be dividing clumps to share with friends, tucking them into every sunny corner, and wondering how you ever gardened without them.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between catmint and catnip?

Catmint (Nepeta x faassenii and hybrids) is an ornamental perennial with low nepetalactone content. Catnip (Nepeta cataria) is a weedy species high in nepetalactone that strongly attracts cats. Catmint is grown for flowers and foliage; catnip is grown for cats.

How far apart should I plant low growing catmint?

Space plants 18-24 inches apart for distinct mounds, or 12-15 inches apart for continuous edging. Most compact varieties spread 18-24 inches wide at maturity.

Does catmint need fertilizer?

Catmint rarely needs fertilizer. Rich soil causes floppy growth and fewer flowers. A light scattering of compost in spring is sufficient for most gardens.

Why does my catmint flop open in the middle?

Flopping results from too much shade, rich soil, overwatering, or lack of shearing. Plant in full sun, lean soil, and shear after the first bloom to maintain a tight mound.

Can I grow catmint in a container?

Yes, compact varieties like ‘Kit Cat,’ ‘Little Titch,’ and ‘Cat’s Pajamas’ thrive in containers. Use a gritty, well-drained mix and a pot at least 12 inches wide and deep.

Is catmint deer resistant?

Yes, catmint is highly deer and rabbit resistant due to its aromatic foliage. It is rarely browsed except in extreme drought when animals eat almost anything.