Planting Catmint

Catmint (Nepeta) is a low-maintenance perennial that thrives in full sun and well-drained soil. Plant it in spring or fall, space plants 18-24 inches apart, and water regularly until established. This drought-tolerant herb attracts pollinators and resists deer and rabbits.

Key Takeaways

• Choose the right variety: Select catmint cultivars suited to your climate zone and garden space, from compact ‘Walker’s Low’ to taller ‘Six Hills Giant.’
• Plant in full sun: Catmint needs at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily for best flowering and compact growth.
• Ensure excellent drainage: Well-drained soil prevents root rot; amend heavy clay with compost or grit before planting.
• Space plants properly: Allow 18-24 inches between plants for air circulation and mature spread.
• Water wisely during establishment: Water regularly the first season, then reduce to occasional deep watering once established.
• Shear after first bloom: Cut back by one-third after spring flowering to encourage a second flush of blooms.
• Divide every 3-4 years: Lift and divide clumps in early spring to maintain vigor and prevent center die-out.

Quick Answers to Common Questions

When is the best time to plant catmint?

Spring after the last frost or early fall 6-8 weeks before the first frost. Spring gives a full growing season; fall encourages strong root growth.

How much sun does catmint need?

At least 6 hours of direct sun daily. Eight hours is better. In very hot climates, light afternoon shade helps.

How often should I water established catmint?

Only during extended drought. Water deeply once every 2-3 weeks in dry weather. Catmint is very drought-tolerant once established.

Should I fertilize catmint?

No. Fertilizer causes floppy growth and fewer flowers. A spring top-dressing of compost is all it needs.

How do I keep catmint from flopping over?

Do the Chelsea Chop in late May (cut back by 1/3), avoid fertilizer, ensure full sun, and stake tall varieties early.

Why Catmint Deserves a Spot in Your Garden

If you want a plant that gives you months of color, asks for almost nothing in return, and brings bees and butterflies flocking to your yard, catmint is the answer. This tough perennial has been a garden favorite for generations, and for good reason. It blooms from late spring through fall, shrugs off heat and drought, and keeps deer and rabbits at bay with its aromatic foliage.

I first planted catmint along a sunny driveway border where nothing else would thrive. The soil was poor, the sun was relentless, and I forgot to water more often than I care to admit. The catmint not only survived, it thrived. It formed a soft mound of gray-green leaves topped with spikes of lavender-blue flowers that seemed to go on forever. That experience taught me why this plant has earned its place in gardens worldwide.

Getting to Know Catmint

What Is Catmint?

Catmint belongs to the genus Nepeta, a member of the mint family (Lamiaceae). Despite the name, it is not the same as catnip (Nepeta cataria), though they are close cousins. Catnip drives cats into a frenzy. Catmint has a milder effect on felines but offers far superior ornamental value. The plants form mounding clumps of aromatic, gray-green foliage with square stems typical of the mint family. From late spring onward, they send up spikes of small, tubular flowers in shades of blue, lavender, pink, or white.

Popular Catmint Varieties

Choosing the right variety makes all the difference. Here are some standout options:

• ‘Walker’s Low’: Despite the name, this grows 24-30 inches tall and wide. It was named Perennial Plant of the Year in 2007. Long-blooming, reliable, and tidy.
• ‘Six Hills Giant’: A taller, older cultivar reaching 3-4 feet. Great for the back of a border. Can flop without support.
• ‘Cat’s Meow’: Compact at 18-20 inches with a neat, mounded habit. Excellent for smaller spaces.
• ‘Purrsian Blue’: Even smaller at 14-18 inches. Dense flowering and very tidy.
• ‘Junior Walker’: A dwarf version of ‘Walker’s Low’ at 15-18 inches. Perfect for containers or edging.
• ‘Blue Wonder’: Early bloomer with deep blue flowers. Grows 12-15 inches tall.
• ‘Snowflake’: Pure white flowers on 12-14 inch plants. Nice for moon gardens.
• ‘Pink Cat’: Soft pink blooms on compact 12-18 inch plants.

Catmint vs. Catnip: Know the Difference

Gardeners often confuse these two. Catnip (Nepeta cataria) is the one that sends cats into euphoria. It has a weedy habit, coarse foliage, and white flowers with pale purple spots. It self-seeds aggressively. Catmint (Nepeta x faassenii and other ornamental species) has showier flowers, neater foliage, and a clumping habit that stays put. Cats may roll in catmint, but they do not destroy it. If you want ornamental value, choose catmint. If you want to entertain your cat, grow catnip in a pot.

When to Plant Catmint

Spring Planting Advantages

Spring is the classic planting time for catmint. Plant after the last frost date when soil has warmed to at least 50°F (10°C). In most regions, this means April through May. Spring planting gives roots a full growing season to establish before winter. You will often see flowers the first summer, though the real show comes in year two. Nurseries have the best selection in spring. You can also start seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost.

Fall Planting Benefits

Fall planting works beautifully in zones 5-8. Plant 6-8 weeks before the first hard frost. The soil is still warm, encouraging root growth, while cooler air temperatures reduce stress. Plants focus energy on roots rather than top growth. They emerge stronger next spring. Fall-planted catmint often blooms earlier and more heavily the following summer. Water well until the ground freezes. Mulch after the ground freezes to prevent frost heaving.

Regional Timing Guide

• Zones 3-4: Spring only. Fall planting risks winter kill.
• Zones 5-6: Spring preferred. Early fall (September) works with mulch.
• Zones 7-8: Spring or fall both excellent. Fall often better.
• Zones 9-10: Fall through winter. Avoid summer heat.

Choosing the Perfect Location

Sun Requirements

Catmint demands full sun. That means at least 6 hours of direct, unfiltered sunlight daily. Eight hours is even better. In hot southern climates (zones 8-9), light afternoon shade helps prevent scorching. Too little sun leads to leggy growth, fewer flowers, and floppy stems. The plant stretches toward light, losing its neat mounded form. Powdery mildew also becomes more likely in shade. If your garden is shady, catmint will disappoint. Choose a different plant.

Soil Preferences

Here is the good news: catmint is not fussy about soil fertility. It prefers lean, well-drained soil. Rich soil produces lush foliage at the expense of flowers. The plant may also flop. The critical factor is drainage. Catmint hates wet feet. Heavy clay soil spells trouble unless amended. Sandy or gravelly soil is ideal. A pH between 6.0 and 7.5 works fine. Slightly alkaline soil is tolerated. Test drainage by digging a hole 12 inches deep, filling with water, and timing how long it takes to drain. If water remains after 4 hours, improve drainage or choose a raised bed.

Improving Poor Drainage

If you have clay soil, do not despair. You can make it work:

• Amend the planting area (not just the hole) with coarse sand, fine gravel, or perlite. Mix in 30-50% by volume.
• Add compost to improve structure, but do not overdo it. Too much organic matter holds water.
• Create raised beds or berms 8-12 inches high.
• Plant on a slope where water naturally runs off.
• Install drainage tile if the area stays soggy.

Spacing for Success

Give catmint room to breathe. Space plants 18-24 inches apart for most varieties. Dwarf types like ‘Purrsian Blue’ can go 12-15 inches. ‘Six Hills Giant’ needs 30-36 inches. Proper spacing ensures good air circulation, which prevents fungal diseases. It also lets each plant develop its natural mounded shape without crowding neighbors. If planting in a mass, stagger plants in a triangular pattern rather than straight rows for a more natural look.

Step-by-Step Planting Guide

Prepare the Planting Area

Start by clearing the area of weeds and grass. Remove any rocks or debris. Loosen the soil to a depth of 12-15 inches using a garden fork or tiller. If your soil is heavy clay, this is the time to incorporate your drainage amendments. Spread 2-3 inches of compost over the area and work it in. Rake smooth. Water the area lightly the day before planting so the soil is moist but not soggy.

Remove the Plant from Its Pot

Water the potted catmint thoroughly an hour before planting. This reduces transplant shock and helps the root ball hold together. Turn the pot on its side and gently slide the plant out. If roots are circling the bottom (root-bound), gently tease them apart with your fingers. Make 3-4 vertical cuts 1/2 inch deep around the root ball with a clean knife. This encourages roots to grow outward into the surrounding soil.

Dig the Hole

Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball and just as deep. The wider hole gives roots loose soil to expand into. The depth should match the soil level in the pot. Planting too deep causes crown rot. Planting too high exposes roots. Place the plant in the hole and check the level. Adjust by adding or removing soil from the bottom.

Backfill and Firm

Fill the hole halfway with native soil (no fertilizer needed). Water gently to settle soil and eliminate air pockets. Finish backfilling. Firm the soil lightly with your hands. Do not stomp with your feet. This compacts soil and reduces oxygen to roots. The crown (where stems meet roots) should sit at or slightly above the surrounding soil level.

Water Thoroughly

Give the newly planted catmint a deep soaking. Use a gentle stream or watering can rose. Water until the soil is moist to the depth of the root ball. This settles soil around roots and eliminates remaining air pockets. Check the next day. If soil has settled, add more to keep the crown at the proper level.

Mulch Wisely

Apply 2 inches of mulch around the plant, keeping it 2-3 inches away from the crown. Good choices: shredded bark, pine straw, gravel, or crushed stone. In humid climates, gravel or stone mulch improves air circulation at the base and reduces fungal issues. In dry climates, organic mulch conserves moisture. Replenish mulch annually in spring.

First Season Care: Getting Established

Watering Schedule

The first growing season is critical. Water deeply twice a week for the first month if no rain. After that, reduce to once a week. Water at the base of the plant, not overhead. Wet foliage invites disease. Check soil moisture by sticking your finger 2 inches deep. If dry, water. If moist, wait. Established catmint (year two onward) needs water only during extended drought. Signs of underwatering: wilting, leaf curl, reduced flowering. Signs of overwatering: yellowing lower leaves, soft stems, fungal growth.

Fertilizing: Less Is More

Catmint does not need fertilizer. Really. In fact, fertilizer hurts more than helps. Nitrogen produces floppy, leafy growth with fewer flowers. It also reduces essential oil content, making plants less aromatic and less pest-resistant. If your soil is extremely poor (pure sand), a single application of balanced slow-release fertilizer (10-10-10) at half rate in early spring is acceptable. Otherwise, skip it. A top-dressing of 1 inch of compost in spring provides all the nutrition needed.

Pinching for Bushier Growth

When new growth reaches 6-8 inches in spring, pinch back the tips by 1-2 inches. Use your thumb and forefinger or clean scissors. This encourages branching and creates a denser, more compact plant with more flower spikes. Do this once. Do not pinch after flower buds form or you will delay blooming.

Staking Tall Varieties

‘Six Hills Giant’ and other tall cultivars (over 3 feet) often flop, especially after rain. Install supports early, before plants need them. Use grow-through grid stakes, peony rings, or bamboo stakes with twine. Place supports when plants are 12 inches tall. Grow stems through the grid. This looks natural and prevents the “bundled” look of last-minute staking.

Ongoing Maintenance for Years of Blooms

The Chelsea Chop: Timing and Technique

This British gardening technique transforms catmint. In late May or early June (around the Chelsea Flower Show), cut plants back by one-third to one-half. This delays flowering by 2-3 weeks but produces shorter, sturdier stems that do not flop. It also extends the bloom season. You can chop the front half of a clump and leave the back half for staggered blooms. Use clean, sharp shears. Water well after cutting.

Deadheading for Repeat Blooms

After the first flush of flowers fades (usually late June to July), shear the entire plant back by one-third. Remove spent flower spikes and some foliage. This tidies the plant and triggers a second heavy bloom in late summer. Do not be timid. Catmint responds vigorously. If you skip this, you get a sparse second bloom and a messy-looking plant. The exception: if you want seeds for birds or self-sowing, leave some flower heads.

Fall Cleanup

After hard frost kills the top growth, you have two choices. Cut stems to 2-3 inches above ground. Or leave them standing until early spring. Leaving stems provides winter interest, catches snow for insulation, and houses beneficial insects. In wet climates, cutting back reduces crown rot risk. In cold climates, leaving stems adds protection. Either way, remove dead foliage before new growth emerges in spring.

Dividing: When and How

Catmint clumps expand outward. After 3-4 years, the center often dies out, leaving a ring of growth. This signals division time. Early spring is best, just as new growth appears. Fall works too, 6 weeks before frost. Water the plant well the day before. Dig up the entire clump. Shake off excess soil. Use a sharp spade or knife to cut the clump into sections, each with 3-5 healthy shoots and roots. Discard the woody, dead center. Replant divisions immediately at the same depth. Water well. Mulch. Divisions often bloom the same year.

Growing Catmint in Containers

Container Selection

Catmint grows well in pots. Choose a container at least 12 inches wide and deep for dwarf varieties. Use 18-24 inches for standard types. The pot must have drainage holes. Terra cotta, concrete, and fabric pots work well. They breathe, reducing root rot risk. Plastic holds moisture longer, useful in hot climates. Avoid saucers that hold water. Elevate pots on feet or bricks for drainage.

Potting Mix

Use a high-quality potting mix designed for perennials or herbs. Do not use garden soil. It compacts in containers. Look for mixes with peat moss or coconut coir, perlite or vermiculite, and compost. Add extra perlite (20% by volume) for sharper drainage. Mix in a slow-release fertilizer at half the recommended rate. Catmint in containers needs more feeding than in-ground plants because nutrients leach out.

Container Care

Water when the top inch of soil feels dry. This may mean daily in summer heat. Water until it drains from the bottom. Fertilize monthly with liquid fertilizer at quarter strength, or use slow-release granules in spring. Stop fertilizing by August. In winter (zones 5-7), move pots to an unheated garage or bury them in the ground. In zones 8+, they can stay outdoors. Repot every 2-3 years in spring, moving up one pot size or dividing.

Companion Planting with Catmint

Best Flower Companions

Catmint’s soft blue-lavender flowers and gray-green foliage pair beautifully with many perennials:

• Roses: Classic combination. Catmint hides bare rose canes. Colors complement each other. Both love sun and drainage.
• Salvia: Similar spikes in blue, purple, or red. Bloom together. Same care needs.
• Echinacea (Coneflower): Bold daisy flowers contrast with catmint’s spikes. Both drought-tolerant.
• Rudbeckia (Black-eyed Susan): Golden yellow pops against lavender blue. Long bloom overlap.
• Coreopsis: Fine texture and yellow flowers. Airy and cheerful together.
• Allium: Purple globes rise above catmint mounds in late spring. Dramatic.
• Lavender: Mediterranean cousins. Similar needs. Silver foliage harmony.
• Russian Sage: Taller, airy blue spikes behind catmint. Same tough constitution.
• Yarrow: Flat flower heads contrast with spikes. Many colors available.
• Ornamental Grasses: Feather reed grass, fountain grass, or blue fescue add movement and winter interest.

Vegetable Garden Benefits

Catmint earns its keep in the vegetable garden. Plant it near:

• Tomatoes: Repels aphids, whiteflies, and tomato hornworms.
• Peppers: Same pest-repelling benefits.
• Squash and cucumbers: Deters squash bugs and cucumber beetles.
• Brassicas (cabbage, broccoli, kale): Repels cabbage moths and flea beetles.
• Carrots: Masks carrot scent from carrot flies.

The strong scent of catmint foliage confuses pests seeking host plants. It also attracts beneficial insects: hoverflies, parasitic wasps, lacewings, and bees. These predators and pollinators improve overall garden health. Plant catmint as a border around vegetable beds or interplant between rows.

Plants to Avoid

Catmint does not play well with plants that need rich, moist soil. Avoid pairing with:

• Hostas (need shade and moisture)
• Astilbe (needs consistent moisture)
• Ferns (need shade and humidity)
• Impatiens (need shade and water)
• Lobelia (needs moist soil)

These plants have opposite needs. One will suffer.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

Floppy, Leggy Growth

Cause: Too much shade, too much fertilizer, too much water, or overcrowding.

Fix: Move to full sun. Stop fertilizing. Reduce watering. Divide or thin crowded plants. Do the Chelsea Chop next spring.

Yellowing Leaves

Cause: Overwatering, poor drainage, or nutrient deficiency (rare).

Fix: Check soil drainage. Reduce watering. If drainage is poor, consider moving the plant or improving soil. A soil test can reveal deficiencies.

Powdery Mildew

Cause: High humidity, poor air circulation, overhead watering, too much shade.

Fix: Improve spacing. Water at base only. Remove affected leaves. Apply neem oil or potassium bicarbonate spray. Choose resistant varieties like ‘Walker’s Low’.

Root Rot

Cause: Soggy soil, poor drainage, overwatering.

Fix: Usually fatal. Improve drainage before replanting. Use raised beds. Water only when soil is dry 2 inches down.

Center Die-Out

Cause: Age. The plant expands outward, center gets woody and dies.

Fix: Divide in early spring. Discard dead center. Replant vigorous outer sections.

No Flowers or Few Flowers

Cause: Too much shade, too much nitrogen, plant too young, or improper pruning timing.

Fix: Ensure 6+ hours sun. Stop fertilizing. Wait for maturity (year 2). Do not prune after flower buds form.

Aphids or Spider Mites

Cause: Stressed plants, hot dry weather (spider mites), or new growth (aphids).

Fix: Blast with water. Apply insecticidal soap or neem oil. Encourage ladybugs and lacewings. Healthy plants resist pests better.

Propagating Catmint: More Plants for Free

Division

Covered above. Easiest and most reliable method. Spring or fall. Instant mature plants.

Stem Cuttings

Take 4-6 inch cuttings in late spring or early summer from non-flowering stems. Cut just below a node. Remove lower leaves. Dip cut end in rooting hormone (optional but helpful). Insert into moist perlite-vermiculite mix or sandy potting soil. Cover with a plastic bag or dome. Place in bright, indirect light. Roots form in 2-3 weeks. Pot up and grow on.

Seed

Catmint seeds need light to germinate. Sow indoors 6-8 weeks before last frost. Press seeds onto moist seed-starting mix. Do not cover. Keep at 65-70°F. Germination in 10-20 days. Transplant seedlings after frost. Note: named cultivars do not come true from seed. You get variable offspring. Species types (Nepeta racemosa, N. sibirica) come reasonably true.

Layering

In spring, bend a low stem to the ground. Wound the underside slightly. Bury the wounded section under 1 inch of soil. Pin with a landscape staple or rock. Keep moist. Roots form in 4-6 weeks. Cut from mother plant and transplant.

Catmint Through the Seasons

Spring

New growth emerges from the crown. Gray-green leaves unfurl. This is the time to divide, fertilize lightly (or not), pinch for bushiness, and apply the Chelsea Chop if desired. Watch for slugs on tender new shoots. Apply organic slug control if needed.

Summer

First flush of blooms begins late spring to early summer. Bees and butterflies arrive in droves. Deadhead spent blooms or shear back by one-third after first flush for second bloom. Water during drought. Enjoy the show.

Fall

Second bloom continues into fall. Foliage may develop purple tints in cool weather. Stop fertilizing. Reduce watering. Leave stems standing for winter interest or cut back after frost. Mulch in cold zones.

Winter

Dormant in cold climates. Evergreen or semi-evergreen in mild zones (7+). Stems catch snow, insulating crown. Provides shelter for beneficial insects. Plan next year’s companions. Order new varieties.

Design Ideas: Using Catmint in the Landscape

Border Edging

Dwarf varieties like ‘Purrsian Blue’ or ‘Blue Wonder’ make perfect edging along paths or flower beds. Their neat mounds stay tidy all season. Plant 12-15 inches apart for a continuous line. The soft foliage softens hard edges.

Mass Planting

Plant 5, 7, or 9 of the same variety in a drift. Space 18-24 inches apart. The effect is a sea of lavender-blue that moves with the breeze. Stunning on a slope or in a large bed. Mix with ornamental grasses for texture contrast.

Rock Garden

Catmint thrives in the sharp drainage of rock gardens. Its cascading habit spills over stones beautifully. Pair with sedums, creeping thyme, and dwarf conifers.

Cottage Garden

Essential for the informal, romantic cottage garden look. Let it mingle with roses, foxgloves, delphiniums, and hollyhocks. Self-sows gently (some varieties) for that natural, unplanned feel.

Pollinator Garden

Plant in blocks of 3-5 near vegetable gardens or fruit trees. The constant bee activity improves pollination of food crops. Add other pollinator favorites: bee balm, coneflower, butterfly weed, and herbs like oregano and thyme.

Hellstrip Planting

That difficult strip between sidewalk and street? Catmint handles heat, drought, salt, and poor soil. Compact varieties stay within bounds. Check local regulations on height.

Container Combinations

Use catmint as the “filler” in thriller-filler-spiller container designs. Pair with a tall grass or salvia (thriller) and trailing verbena or calibrachoa (spiller). Silver foliage varieties like ‘Walker’s Low’ contrast beautifully with dark-leaved plants.

Catmint and Wildlife

Pollinator Magnet

Catmint is one of the best plants for bees. Honeybees, bumblebees, native solitary bees, and hoverflies cover the flowers on sunny days. Butterflies visit frequently. Hummingbirds occasionally sip nectar. The long bloom season provides sustained forage. Plant it and they will come.

Deer and Rabbit Resistance

The strong minty aroma of catmint foliage repels deer and rabbits. They rarely browse it, even in high-pressure areas. No plant is 100% proof, but catmint is among the most reliable. This makes it invaluable in unfenced gardens.

Beneficial Insects

Parasitic wasps, tachinid flies, lacewings, and ladybugs are attracted to catmint flowers and foliage. These predators control aphids, caterpillars, and other pests. Catmint serves as an insectary plant, supporting biological control.

Birds

Finches and sparrows eat catmint seeds in fall and winter. Leave some flower heads standing. The dense foliage also provides cover for ground-feeding birds.

Harvesting and Using Catmint

For Tea

Catmint makes a pleasant, mild herbal tea. Harvest stems just before flowering for best flavor. Cut in mid-morning after dew dries. Hang small bundles upside down in a dark, airy place. When crisp-dry, strip leaves and store in airtight jars. Steep 1 teaspoon dried leaves per cup of boiling water for 5 minutes. The tea is calming, digestive, and caffeine-free.

For Cats

If your cat enjoys catmint, harvest fresh stems and let them air-dry for a few days. Stuff into cloth toys or sprinkle on scratching posts. The effect is milder than catnip but still enjoyable for many cats. About 50-70% of cats respond.

Cut Flowers

Catmint stems make lovely filler in casual bouquets. Cut when half the flowers on a spike are open. Strip lower leaves. Condition in cool water for a few hours. They last 5-7 days. The gray-green foliage adds texture.

Dried Arrangements

Harvest at peak bloom. Hang upside down in bundles. Dried spikes retain color well. Use in wreaths, swags, or potpourri.

Buying Catmint: What to Look For

At the Nursery

Choose plants with:

• Healthy gray-green foliage, no yellowing or spots
• Compact, bushy shape, not leggy
• White, firm roots visible at drainage holes (not circling heavily)
• No weeds growing in the pot
• Labels with cultivar name and zone rating

Avoid plants with flowers already open in early spring. They were forced and may struggle to establish. Buy in 4-inch or 1-gallon pots. Larger pots establish faster but cost more.

Mail Order

Reputable online nurseries ship healthy bare-root or potted plants. Order early for best selection. Spring shipments arrive at proper planting time. Fall shipments should arrive 6 weeks before frost. Unpack immediately. Water if dry. Plant within 2 days. If delayed, heel in (temporarily plant in a trench) in a shady spot.

Conclusion: A Plant That Gives Back

Catmint is one of those rare plants that asks so little and gives so much. It blooms for months, feeds pollinators, resists pests, tolerates drought, and looks good doing it. Whether you edge a path with ‘Purrsian Blue,’ create a lavender river of ‘Walker’s Low,’ or tuck a few plants among your roses, catmint earns its keep.

Start with one plant this spring. Watch it grow. Shear it back after the first bloom and marvel at the second flush. Divide it in a few years and share divisions with friends. Before you know it, you will wonder how you ever gardened without it. The bees will thank you. The butterflies will thank you. And your garden will have that effortless, abundant look that only tough, beautiful perennials can provide.

Happy planting.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is catmint the same as catnip?

No. Catmint (Nepeta x faassenii and ornamental species) is grown for flowers and foliage. Catnip (Nepeta cataria) is grown for cats. Catmint has showier flowers, neater habit, and milder effect on cats.

Will catmint spread aggressively?

Catmint forms clumps that slowly expand. It does not run by rhizomes like mint. Some varieties self-seed modestly. Deadheading prevents unwanted seedlings. Division every 3-4 years controls size.

Can catmint grow in shade?

Catmint needs full sun (6+ hours). In shade, it becomes leggy, flowers poorly, and is prone to powdery mildew. Choose a different plant for shady spots.

Why is my catmint dying in the middle?

This is normal aging. After 3-4 years, the center becomes woody and dies. Dig up the plant in early spring, discard the dead center, and replant the vigorous outer sections.

Can I grow catmint in a pot?

Yes. Use a 12+ inch pot with drainage holes, well-draining potting mix, and water when the top inch of soil is dry. Fertilize monthly at quarter strength. Protect pots in winter in cold zones.

Does catmint attract bees?

Absolutely. Catmint is a top pollinator plant. Honeybees, bumblebees, native bees, butterflies, and hoverflies visit constantly during its long bloom season.