How to Plant Catmint Walker& 39

Catmint Walker’s Low is a stunning, low-maintenance perennial that thrives in full sun and well-drained soil. This guide covers everything from site selection and soil preparation to planting techniques and ongoing care. Follow these steps to enjoy months of lavender-blue blooms and aromatic foliage.

If you want a perennial that delivers months of color, asks for very little, and brings pollinators flocking to your garden, Catmint Walker’s Low is a top contender. This plant, known botanically as Nepeta ‘Walker’s Low’, is a garden workhorse. It forms a lovely mound of gray-green, aromatic leaves topped with spikes of lavender-blue flowers from late spring well into fall. Despite the name, it does not stay low. It reaches 24 to 30 inches tall and wide, making a bold statement in borders, rock gardens, or along pathways.

I have grown this catmint for years, and it remains one of the most reliable plants in my sunny beds. It handles heat, humidity, and drought once established. It also resists deer and rabbits, which is a huge plus in many areas. The secret to success is simple: give it sun, give it drainage, and do not smother it with kindness. Too much water or fertilizer makes it floppy and reduces flowering. In this guide, I will walk you through every step to get your Catmint Walker’s Low off to a perfect start and keep it thriving for years.

Key Takeaways

Sun is essential: Catmint Walker’s Low needs at least six hours of direct sunlight daily for best flowering.
Drainage is critical: These plants hate wet feet; amend heavy clay soil with grit or compost.
Space properly: Plant 18 to 24 inches apart to allow air circulation and prevent disease.
Water wisely: Water regularly until established, then only during prolonged drought.
Shear after first bloom: Cut back by half after the first flush to encourage a second heavy bloom.
Deer and rabbit resistant: The aromatic foliage naturally repels most browsing animals.
Divide every few years: Lift and divide clumps in spring or fall to maintain vigor.

Quick Answers to Common Questions

When is the best time to plant Catmint Walker’s Low?

Spring and early fall are ideal. Spring gives roots a full season to establish. Fall works in zones 5+ if planted 6 weeks before ground freeze.

How much sun does Catmint Walker’s Low need?

It needs full sun, at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. In very hot climates, light afternoon shade is acceptable.

Why is my Catmint Walker’s Low floppy and falling over?

Flopping is usually caused by too much shade, overwatering, over-fertilizing, or skipping the mid-season shear. Correct these issues for upright growth.

Do I need to deadhead Catmint Walker’s Low?

Yes. Shear the whole plant back by half after the first bloom finishes. This prevents seeding and triggers a heavy second bloom.

Is Catmint Walker’s Low invasive?

No. Unlike true mints, it does not spread by runners. It forms a clump that slowly widens. It may self-seed lightly, but seedlings are easy to remove.

Getting to Know Catmint Walker’s Low

What Makes This Cultivar Special

Walker’s Low was named Perennial Plant of the Year in 2007 by the Perennial Plant Association. That award tells you a lot. It was selected for its long bloom season, pest resistance, and adaptability across many climates. The name “Walker’s Low” is a bit misleading. It does not refer to the plant’s height. It comes from the garden in Ireland where it was discovered, possibly named after a person named Walker. The plant itself is a naturally occurring hybrid, likely between Nepeta racemosa and Nepeta nepetella.

The flowers are a soft, lavender-blue that blends beautifully with almost any color scheme. The foliage releases a minty, slightly citrusy scent when brushed. This scent comes from nepetalactone, the same compound that drives cats wild. However, Walker’s Low is generally less attractive to cats than true catnip (Nepeta cataria). You might see a neighborhood cat roll in it occasionally, but they rarely destroy the plant.

Hardiness and Growth Habit

This catmint is hardy in USDA zones 3 through 8. In the warmest parts of zone 8, it appreciates a bit of afternoon shade. It is a herbaceous perennial, meaning it dies back to the ground in winter and re-emerges from the crown in spring. The growth habit is a loose, billowing mound. The stems are square, a trait of the mint family (Lamiaceae), but it does not spread aggressively by runners like spearmint or peppermint. It stays in a clump, slowly widening over time.

Choosing the Perfect Spot

Sunlight Requirements

Full sun is non-negotiable for the best show. “Full sun” means at least six hours of direct, unfiltered sunlight per day. Eight hours is even better. In hot southern climates (zones 7b and 8), a location with morning sun and light, dappled afternoon shade can prevent the foliage from scorching in July and August. If you plant in too much shade, the stems will stretch toward the light, becoming weak and floppy. You will also get significantly fewer flowers. A sunny, open spot is ideal.

Soil Drainage: The Make-or-Break Factor

If there is one rule you cannot break with Catmint Walker’s Low, it is drainage. These plants are native to rocky, well-drained hillsides in Europe and Asia. They have zero tolerance for soggy roots, especially in winter. Heavy clay soil that stays wet will kill them faster than cold temperatures. Before planting, do a simple drainage test. Dig a hole 12 inches deep and 12 inches wide. Fill it with water. Let it drain. Fill it again. If the water takes more than a few hours to disappear the second time, you have a drainage problem.

Soil Fertility and pH

Catmint prefers lean to average soil. Rich, heavily amended soil encourages lush, weak growth that flops over. A slightly alkaline to neutral pH (6.7 to 7.5) is perfect. If your soil is very acidic, add a handful of garden lime to the planting hole. You do not need to add fertilizer at planting time. In fact, I advise against it. A light top-dressing of compost in early spring is all the feeding a mature plant needs.

Preparing the Soil

Amending Heavy Clay

If your soil is sticky clay, you must amend the planting area, not just the hole. Amending only the planting hole creates a “bathtub effect” where water collects in the amended zone and rots the roots. Instead, work coarse builder’s sand, fine gravel (like chicken grit or pea gravel), and compost into the top 12 inches of the entire bed. Aim for a mix that feels gritty and crumbles easily in your hand. A ratio of one-third native soil, one-third coarse sand or grit, and one-third compost works well. This mimics the sharp drainage of its native habitat.

Dealing with Sandy Soil

If you have very sandy soil, you have the drainage part solved. However, sand holds little water or nutrients. Mix in a generous amount of compost or well-rotted leaf mold to help retain moisture and provide a slow-release nutrient source. A 50/50 mix of native sand and compost is a good starting point. This will help the plant establish faster without needing constant watering.

Preparing the Planting Hole

Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball but no deeper. The top of the root ball should sit level with or slightly above the surrounding soil grade. Planting too deep buries the crown, leading to rot. Loosen the soil at the bottom of the hole with your fork. If your soil is decent loam, you may not need any amendment at all. Just rough up the sides of the hole so roots can penetrate easily.

Planting Your Catmint Walker’s Low

When to Plant

Spring and early fall are the best times. Spring planting gives the roots all season to establish before winter. Fall planting works well in zones 5 and warmer, provided you plant at least six weeks before the ground freezes. This allows roots to settle in. Avoid planting in the heat of summer. If you must plant in summer, provide temporary shade and water daily for the first two weeks.

Spacing for Success

Space plants 18 to 24 inches apart, center to center. This might look sparse at first, but these plants fill in fast. Proper spacing ensures good air circulation, which prevents fungal issues like powdery mildew. It also lets each plant develop its natural, graceful mound shape without competing for light. If you are planting a drift or mass, stagger the rows in a triangle pattern for a more natural look.

Step-by-Step Planting Process

First, water the plant thoroughly in its pot an hour before planting. This reduces transplant shock. Gently remove the plant from the container. If the roots are circling the bottom (root-bound), tease them apart with your fingers or make three vertical cuts 1/2 inch deep around the root ball with a knife. This encourages outward growth. Place the plant in the hole. Check the depth. The crown (where stems meet roots) must be at soil level. Backfill with your native or amended soil. Firm it gently with your hands—do not stomp with your feet. Water deeply to settle the soil and eliminate air pockets. Apply a 2-inch layer of mulch, keeping it pulled back an inch from the stems.

Container Planting Tips

Catmint Walker’s Low grows beautifully in large containers. Choose a pot at least 16 inches wide and deep. Use a high-quality potting mix blended with 20% perlite or pumice for extra drainage. Ensure the pot has large drainage holes. Elevate the pot on feet or bricks so water exits freely. Container plants need more frequent watering and a light feed with liquid fertilizer once a month during the growing season. In winter, move pots to a protected spot (unheated garage or against a house wall) in zones 5 and colder to prevent root freeze.

Caring for Your New Plants

Watering: The Establishment Phase

Newly planted catmint needs consistent moisture for the first 4 to 6 weeks. Water deeply two to three times a week, depending on rain and heat. “Deeply” means soaking the root zone, not just wetting the surface. Check the soil with your finger; if the top inch is dry, water. Once you see new growth and the plant resists a gentle tug (indicating roots have anchored), you can back off. Established Catmint Walker’s Low is very drought tolerant. In most climates, rainfall is enough. Only water during extended dry spells (three weeks with no rain). Overwatering established plants causes weak stems and root rot.

Mulching Do’s and Don’ts

Mulch helps conserve moisture and suppress weeds. Use gravel, crushed stone, pine straw, or shredded bark. Apply a 2-inch layer. Critical rule: Keep mulch away from the crown. Wet mulch against the stems is an invitation for crown rot. Pull it back to create a small “donut” of bare soil around the base. In humid climates, gravel or stone mulch is superior to organic mulch because it does not hold moisture against the stems.

Fertilizing: Less Is More

I cannot stress this enough: do not fertilize heavily. Catmint thrives in lean conditions. A single application of a balanced, slow-release organic fertilizer (like 5-5-5) in early spring is plenty. Or simply top-dress with 1 inch of compost. High-nitrogen fertilizers (like lawn fertilizer) produce floppy, leafy growth with few flowers. If your plant looks pale or stunted in poor soil, a light feed is okay. Otherwise, skip it.

The Chelsea Chop and Deadheading

This is the secret to a tidy, reblooming plant. After the first heavy flush of bloom fades (usually late June or early July), shear the entire plant back by one-third to one-half. Use hedge shears or sharp pruners. This “Chelsea Chop” removes spent flowers, prevents seeding, and forces fresh, compact growth and a second massive bloom in late summer. It also keeps the mound dense and prevents the center from opening up. If you don’t shear, the plant gets leggy and bloom declines. In fall, after frost kills the tops, you can cut dead stems to the ground. Or leave them for winter interest and cut in early spring before new growth starts.

Common Problems and Solutions

Floppy, Leggy Growth

This is the number one complaint. The cause is almost always too much shade, too much water, too much fertilizer, or lack of the mid-season shear. Fix it by moving to full sun (if possible), stopping irrigation, stopping fertilizer, and shearing hard after the first bloom. Staking with grow-through supports in early spring can help, but correcting the cultural issues is better.

Powdery Mildew

This appears as a white, powdery coating on leaves, usually in late summer when humidity is high and air circulation is poor. It rarely kills the plant but looks unsightly. Prevention: space properly, water at the base (not overhead), and ensure full sun. If it appears, remove badly affected leaves. A spray of 1 part milk to 9 parts water, applied weekly, can slow the spread. Neem oil or potassium bicarbonate sprays also work.

Root Rot and Crown Rot

Symptoms: wilting despite wet soil, yellowing leaves, blackened stems at the base. This is caused by poor drainage or overwatering. There is no cure for advanced cases, the plant must be removed. Improve drainage before replanting. In heavy soil, consider planting in a raised bed or mound.

Pests: Aphids and Spider Mites

Catmint is largely pest-free. Occasionally, aphids cluster on new growth in spring. Blast them off with a strong jet of water or spray insecticidal soap. Spider mites may appear in hot, dry, dusty conditions. They cause stippled, bronzed leaves. Increase humidity with overhead watering (early morning only) and spray with neem oil if severe. The aromatic oils deter most chewing insects.

Design Ideas and Companion Plants

Classic Pairings

The lavender-blue spikes of Catmint Walker’s Low are a designer’s dream. They bridge warm and cool colors effortlessly. Pair them with roses. The soft blue hides the bare “knees” of rose bushes and complements pink, yellow, white, or red blooms. The catmint also attracts beneficial insects that eat rose pests. Other stellar companions: Salvia ‘May Night’ (deep purple spikes), Echinacea (coneflowers) in any color, Achillea (yarrow) for flat-topped contrast, Perovskia (Russian sage) for a haze of blue, and ornamental grasses like Pennisetum (fountain grass) or Stipa (feather grass) for texture.

Using It in the Landscape

Plant it along a path or driveway where brushing against it releases the scent. Use it to edge a sunny border. Mass it on a slope for erosion control—its roots hold soil well. It thrives in hellstrips (the strip between sidewalk and street) where heat and drought kill lesser plants. It works in rock gardens, gravel gardens, and Mediterranean-style plantings. Because it is deer resistant, it is a great choice for unfenced rural gardens.

Succession Planting for Continuous Color

Walker’s Low blooms heavily in late spring/early summer, takes a brief pause, then reblooms after shearing. To fill the gap, plant early bulbs like Allium ‘Purple Sensation’ or Tulips among the dormant catmint crowns in fall. The catmint foliage will hide the dying bulb foliage later. For late summer, the catmint’s second bloom pairs perfectly with Sedum ‘Autumn Joy’, Rudbeckia (black-eyed Susan), and Helianthus (perennial sunflower).

Propagation: Making More Plants

Division

Divide clumps every 3 to 4 years in early spring just as new growth appears, or in early fall. Dig up the whole clump. Use a sharp spade or knife to cut it into sections, each with several shoots and roots. Discard the woody, dead center. Replant divisions immediately at the same depth. Water well. This rejuvenates old plants and gives you free plants for elsewhere.

Stem Cuttings

Take 4-inch cuttings from non-flowering shoots in late spring or early summer. Strip lower leaves. Dip in rooting hormone (optional but helpful). Stick in a pot of moist perlite/sand mix. Cover with a plastic bag to hold humidity. Place in bright, indirect light. Roots form in 3 to 4 weeks. Pot up and grow on until ready to plant out.

Seed

Walker’s Low is a sterile hybrid. It does not come true from seed. Seeds may be produced but will not yield identical plants. If you want the exact cultivar, propagate vegetatively (division or cuttings).

Seasonal Care Calendar

Early Spring (March-April)

Cut back last year’s dead stems to the ground.
Apply 1 inch of compost around the base.
Divide crowded clumps if needed.
Check drainage after winter rains.

Late Spring (May-June)

Enjoy first heavy bloom.
Monitor for aphids on new growth.
Water only if very dry.

Mid-Summer (July)

Shear plant back by half after first bloom fades (The Chelsea Chop).
Water deeply after shearing to support regrowth.
Watch for powdery mildew in humid weather.

Late Summer/Fall (August-October)

Enjoy second bloom flush.
Stop watering unless severe drought.
Plant new divisions or container plants.

Winter (November-February)

Leave dead stems for winter interest and crown protection (optional).
In very cold zones (3-4), apply loose straw mulch over crown after ground freezes.
Plan new locations for spring planting.

Conclusion

Planting Catmint Walker’s Low is one of the smartest moves you can make for a sunny garden. It asks for so little—sun, drainage, a yearly haircut—and gives back months of color, fragrance, and pollinator activity. I have watched bees drunk on its nectar, butterflies dancing above the mounds, and hummingbirds darting between spikes. It is a plant that makes a garden feel alive. Remember the core lessons: choose the sunniest spot you have, ensure sharp drainage, resist the urge to fertilize, and shear it hard after the first bloom. Do these things, and your Catmint Walker’s Low will be a star performer for years. Happy planting.

Frequently Asked Questions

How tall does Catmint Walker’s Low grow?

Catmint Walker’s Low typically reaches 24 to 30 inches tall and wide. Despite the name “Low,” it is a medium-sized perennial that forms a broad, billowing mound.

Is Catmint Walker’s Low the same as catnip?

No. Catnip is Nepeta cataria, a weedy plant cats love. Walker’s Low is a hybrid ornamental catmint (Nepeta x faassenii ‘Walker’s Low’). It contains less nepetalactone and is far less attractive to cats.

Can Catmint Walker’s Low grow in shade?

It will survive in part shade (4-6 hours sun) but will not thrive. Expect fewer flowers, leggy stems, and increased risk of powdery mildew. Full sun is strongly recommended.

How often should I water established Catmint Walker’s Low?

Established plants are very drought tolerant. Water only during prolonged dry spells (3+ weeks without rain). Overwatering causes root rot and floppy growth.

When should I cut back Catmint Walker’s Low for winter?

You can cut dead stems to the ground in late fall after hard frost, or leave them for winter interest and cut in early spring before new growth emerges. Both methods work fine.

Why is my Catmint Walker’s Low not blooming?

Lack of blooms usually means insufficient sun (less than 6 hours), too much nitrogen fertilizer, or the plant is too young. Ensure full sun, stop fertilizing, and shear after any weak bloom to encourage a better second flush.