What to Plant with Walkers Low Catmint

Walker’s Low catmint is a versatile perennial that pairs beautifully with many sun-loving plants. Companion planting with roses, salvias, and ornamental grasses creates stunning, low-maintenance garden displays that bloom from spring through fall.

Key Takeaways

• Walker’s Low catmint thrives in full sun: It needs at least six hours of direct sunlight daily for best flowering and compact growth.
• Excellent rose companion: The lavender-blue flowers hide bare rose canes and deter pests naturally.
• Pairs well with salvias: Both plants share similar water and sun needs, creating long-lasting color combinations.
• Ornamental grasses add texture: Grasses like fountain grass provide movement and contrast to catmint’s mounding habit.
• Drought tolerant once established: Perfect for water-wise gardens and xeriscaping projects.
• Attracts pollinators: Bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds love the nectar-rich flowers.
• Deer and rabbit resistant: The aromatic foliage naturally repels browsing animals.

Quick Answers to Common Questions

What are the best full-sun companions for Walker’s Low catmint?

Roses, salvias, ornamental grasses, lavender, Russian sage, coneflowers, and black-eyed Susans all thrive in the same full-sun, well-drained conditions as Walker’s Low catmint.

When should I cut back Walker’s Low catmint for a second bloom?

Shear the plant back by half in early July after the first flush of flowers fades. This triggers fresh growth and a heavy second bloom in late summer.

Can I grow Walker’s Low catmint in containers?

Yes, it works well as a filler in large pots with gritty, well-draining soil. Pair with a tall thriller like Russian sage and a trailing spiller like creeping thyme.

Is Walker’s Low catmint deer resistant?

Yes, the aromatic foliage contains compounds that deer and rabbits find unpalatable. It is rarely browsed, making it ideal for unfenced gardens.

How far apart should I space Walker’s Low catmint when planting in drifts?

Space plants 24 to 30 inches apart on center. This allows each plant to reach its natural mounding form without overcrowding neighbors.

Why Walker’s Low Catmint Deserves a Spot in Your Garden

If you have ever walked past a garden border in early summer and caught a whiff of something minty and sweet, chances are you were smelling catmint. Walker’s Low catmint, known botanically as Nepeta racemosa ‘Walker’s Low’, is one of the most reliable perennials you can grow. It forms a neat mound of gray-green foliage topped with spikes of lavender-blue flowers that seem to go on forever. The plant earned the Perennial Plant of the Year award in 2007, and for good reason. It blooms from late spring through early fall if you give it a quick haircut after the first flush. It handles heat, humidity, and drought like a champ. Deer and rabbits leave it alone. Bees and butterflies cannot get enough of it.

But here is the thing. A plant this good should not stand alone. Knowing what to plant with Walker’s Low catmint unlocks a whole new level of garden design. The right companions extend the color show, cover fading foliage, attract more pollinators, and create a planting that looks like it was designed by a pro. Whether you are planning a cottage garden border, a modern gravel garden, or a pollinator patch, this guide will walk you through the best partners for this superstar perennial.

Understanding Walker’s Low Catmint Growing Requirements

Sun and Soil Preferences

Before we talk companions, let us cover the basics. Walker’s Low catmint wants full sun. That means at least six hours of direct light each day. It will tolerate light shade, but you will get fewer flowers and floppier stems. The soil should drain well. This plant hates wet feet, especially in winter. Sandy or gritty soil is ideal. Heavy clay works if you amend it with compost and maybe some coarse sand. The pH range is flexible, anywhere from slightly acidic to slightly alkaline. If you can grow lavender or Russian sage, you can grow Walker’s Low catmint.

Water Needs and Drought Tolerance

New plants need regular water during their first growing season. Once established, they are impressively drought tolerant. The deep taproot seeks out moisture far below the surface. This makes catmint a star in water-wise gardens. Overwatering actually causes more problems than underwatering. Too much moisture leads to root rot and fungal issues. When you choose companions, pick plants with similar low-water needs. This is a key factor in deciding what to plant with Walker’s Low catmint for long-term success.

Growth Habit and Maintenance

Walker’s Low reaches about 24 to 30 inches tall and wide. It forms a billowy mound that softens hard edges. The stems can flop after heavy rain or in rich soil. A quick shear back by half after the first big bloom keeps it tidy and triggers a second flush. In early spring, cut the whole plant back to a few inches above ground. That is pretty much it for maintenance. No staking, no deadheading required unless you want to. This easy-care nature means companions should also be relatively low maintenance.

Classic Companion: Roses and Catmint

Why This Pairing Works

Ask any experienced gardener what to plant with Walker’s Low catmint, and roses will top the list. This is a classic combination for several reasons. Roses often have bare, thorny canes at the base. Catmint’s mounding habit hides those “knees” beautifully. The lavender-blue flowers complement almost any rose color, from pure white to deep crimson. Both plants love full sun and well-drained soil. Catmint’s aromatic foliage may help deter aphids and other rose pests. The long bloom season of catmint fills gaps when roses are between flushes.

Design Tips for Rose and Catmint Borders

Plant catmint in drifts of three or five along the front of a rose bed. Space plants about 24 inches apart to allow for spread. Choose rose varieties with similar mature heights so one does not swallow the other. Shrub roses, floribundas, and David Austin English roses work especially well. Avoid vigorous climbers that might shade out the catmint. Mulch with gravel or shredded bark to keep soil moisture even and foliage clean. The combination looks romantic and established even in a young garden.

Best Rose Varieties to Pair

Some standout roses for this combo include ‘The Fairy’ with its clusters of small pink blooms, ‘Knock Out’ series for nonstop color, ‘Munstead Wood’ for deep velvety red, and ‘Iceberg’ for pure white flowers that make the catmint pop. Yellow roses like ‘Graham Thomas’ create a stunning complementary color scheme. The blue-purple catmint flowers make yellow roses look more vibrant. This is color theory in action, and it is one of the easiest wins when planning what to plant with Walker’s Low catmint.

Salvia and Catmint: A Match Made in Pollinator Heaven

Shared Cultural Needs

Salvias and catmint are like cousins. Both belong to the mint family, Lamiaceae. Both have aromatic foliage, square stems, and tubular flowers that pollinators adore. Both thrive in full sun, lean soil, and dry conditions once established. This shared DNA makes them incredibly easy to grow together. You water them the same way. You fertilize them the same way, which is barely at all. You cut them back at the same time. When you are figuring out what to plant with Walker’s Low catmint, salvias should be near the top of your list.

Color Combinations That Sing

Walker’s Low catmint brings a cool lavender-blue to the party. Salvias offer a huge color range. For a monochromatic cool scheme, pair with ‘May Night’ salvia (deep indigo), ‘Caradonna’ (dark purple stems with violet flowers), or ‘Blue Hill’ (soft sky blue). For contrast, try ‘Hot Lips’ (red and white bicolor), ‘Radio Red’ (vivid scarlet), or ‘Amistad’ (deep purple with near-black calyces). Yellow-flowered salvias like ‘Sierra San Antonio’ create a bold complementary pairing. The flower shapes differ enough to add interest. Catmint has small flowers on loose spikes. Salvias have larger flowers on denser spikes. Together they create rhythm and repetition.

Bloom Time Coordination

Most perennial salvias bloom late spring to early summer, then again in fall if cut back. Walker’s Low catmint follows a similar schedule. Shear both plants after the first flush, usually in early July, and you get a synchronized second act in August and September. This coordination is a huge advantage when planning what to plant with Walker’s Low catmint. You do not have to remember different pruning times for different plants. One haircut serves the whole border.

Ornamental Grasses for Texture and Movement

Why Grasses Complete the Picture

Perennial borders need more than just flowers. They need structure, movement, and winter interest. Ornamental grasses provide all three. The fine, linear blades of grass contrast beautifully with catmint’s soft, rounded mounds. When the wind blows, grasses dance. Catmint sways. The whole border comes alive. Many grasses also hold their shape through winter, providing architecture when catmint is cut to the ground. This seasonal handoff is a key design principle when choosing what to plant with Walker’s Low catmint.

Top Grass Companions

Fountain Grass (Pennisetum alopecuroides): ‘Hameln’ is a compact variety reaching 24 inches. The bottlebrush plumes appear in late summer, just as catmint starts its second bloom. The tan plumes persist into winter. Blue Fescue (Festuca glauca): ‘Elijah Blue’ forms neat 12-inch domes of intense silver-blue foliage. It echoes catmint’s gray-green leaves but in a totally different form. Mexican Feather Grass (Nassella tenuissima): This grass is pure motion. The thread-thin blades catch the slightest breeze. It self-sows gently, creating a naturalistic look. Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium): A native prairie grass with blue-green summer foliage that turns copper-orange in fall. ‘The Blues’ is a great cultivar. Prairie Dropseed (Sporobolus heterolepis): Fine-textured, fountain-shaped, with a subtle cilantro fragrance in late summer. Gold fall color.

Designing with Grasses and Catmint

Plant grasses in groups of three or five, just like catmint. Alternate them in a drift for a meadow look. Or use a row of grasses as a backdrop with catmint spilling over the front edge. In a small garden, one specimen grass anchored by a mass of catmint creates a focal point. Grasses and catmint both prefer lean soil. Do not amend with rich compost. That causes floppy growth in both. A gravel mulch looks great and keeps crowns dry.

Mediterranean Herbs and Xeriscape Partners

Creating a Dry Garden Vibe

Walker’s Low catmint is a Mediterranean native at heart. It feels right at home with lavender, rosemary, thyme, oregano, and sage. These plants share a love for sun, heat, and sharp drainage. Together they create a garden that smells amazing on a warm afternoon. The foliage textures vary from needle-like rosemary to fuzzy lamb’s ear to felty catmint. The color palette stays in silvers, grays, greens, and blues with pops of purple, pink, and white flowers. This is a sophisticated, water-wise look that works in modern and traditional gardens alike.

Lavender and Catmint: The Ultimate Silver Duo

English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) and Walker’s Low catmint are perhaps the most famous silver-leaved pairing. ‘Hidcote’ and ‘Munstead’ are classic compact lavenders. ‘Phenomenal’ handles humidity better than most. Plant them in alternating drifts or mixed together. Both bloom in early summer. Lavender finishes earlier. Catmint keeps going. Shear both after bloom. The combined fragrance on a summer evening is unforgettable. This pairing answers what to plant with Walker’s Low catmint for fragrance and foliage contrast in one go.

Other Mediterranean Stars

Russian Sage (Perovskia atriplicifolia): Tall, airy, lavender-blue spires. ‘Little Spire’ and ‘Denim ‘n Lace’ are shorter cultivars. Blooms mid-summer to fall. Yarrow (Achillea millefolium): Flat flower clusters in yellow, pink, red, or white. Ferny foliage. ‘Moonshine’ (yellow) and ‘Paprika’ (red) are reliable. Lamb’s Ear (Stachys byzantina): Velvety silver leaves form a ground-hugging mat. ‘Helene von Stein’ has huge leaves and rarely flowers. Sedum ‘Autumn Joy’: Succulent leaves, broccoli-like flower heads that age from pink to rust. Winter interest. Euphorbia ‘Ascot Rainbow’: Variegated foliage, chartreuse bracts in spring. Evergreen in mild zones.

Pollinator Powerhouses: Native Perennials

Supporting Local Ecology

If you want your garden to buzz with life, pair Walker’s Low catmint with native perennials. Catmint is a pollinator magnet on its own. Add natives, and you create a full-service habitat. Native bees, butterflies, and beneficial insects evolved with these plants. They provide nectar, pollen, and sometimes larval host foliage. Many natives are also drought tolerant and low maintenance. This ecological approach to what to plant with Walker’s Low catmint gives you a garden that feels alive.

Top Native Companions

Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea): The classic purple coneflower blooms mid-summer. ‘Magnus’ has horizontal petals. ‘White Swan’ is pure white. Newer cultivars offer orange, red, and yellow. Seed heads feed goldfinches in winter. Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia fulgida): ‘Goldsturm’ is the gold standard. Bright yellow daisies with dark centers. Blooms for months. Tough as nails. Bee Balm (Monarda didyma): Shaggy red, pink, or purple flowers. Hummingbirds love it. ‘Jacob Cline’ resists powdery mildew. Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuberosa): Orange flowers. Monarch host plant. Taproot makes it drought tolerant. Slow to emerge in spring. Blazing Star (Liatris spicata): Vertical purple spikes. Blooms top-down. Great cut flower. Goldenrod (Solidago): ‘Fireworks’ arching sprays. Late summer bloom. Not the allergy culprit (that is ragweed). Aster (Symphyotrichum): ‘October Skies’ and ‘Raydon’s Favorite’ are bushy, mildew-resistant, and covered in blue-purple daisies in fall.

Designing a Pollinator Border

Plant in drifts of at least three of each species. Pollinators forage more efficiently when they can move from flower to flower of the same type. Include early, mid, and late-season bloomers. Catmint covers late spring to early summer. Coneflower and bee balm take mid-summer. Asters and goldenrod finish the season. Add a shallow water dish with stones for landing pads. Leave some bare soil for ground-nesting bees. Avoid pesticides. The result is a garden that supports nature while looking gorgeous.

Annuals and Tender Perennials for Seasonal Color

Filling Gaps and Adding Punch

Perennials have their moments. Annuals bloom nonstop until frost. Tucking a few annuals among your Walker’s Low catmint keeps the color coming during perennial downtime. This is especially useful in new gardens where perennials have not filled in yet. Annuals also let you experiment with color schemes without long-term commitment. When considering what to plant with Walker’s Low catmint for instant impact, annuals are your secret weapon.

Best Annual Companions

Zinnias: ‘Profusion’ series is compact and disease resistant. ‘Benary’s Giant’ for cutting. Colors from lime green to deep red. Cosmos: ‘Sonata’ series stays short. ‘Sensation’ gets tall for back of border. Feathery foliage adds texture. Verbena bonariensis: Technically a tender perennial. Tall, airy, purple clusters on wiry stems. Self-sows. Butterflies go crazy for it. Salvia farinacea ‘Victoria Blue’: Annual salvia. Deep blue spikes all summer. Compact. Angelonia: “Summer snapdragon.” Heat lover. Spikes of purple, pink, or white. No deadheading needed. Gomphrena: Globe amaranth. Clover-like blooms. ‘Fireworks’ is tall and airy. ‘Buddy’ is short. Dries beautifully. Cleome: Spider flower. Tall, dramatic, self-sows. Thorns on stems deter browsing.

Tender Perennials Worth the Effort

Dahlias: Lift tubers in fall in cold zones. Endless forms and colors. ‘Bishop of Llandaff’ has dark foliage and red flowers. Cannas: Tropical foliage, bright flowers. ‘Pretoria’ has striped leaves. Agastache: Hummingbird mint. ‘Blue Fortune’ is hardy to zone 5. Others are annuals in cold climates. Licorice-scented foliage. Penstemon: ‘Husker Red’ has maroon foliage and white flowers. Many western species need sharp drainage.

Bulbs for Early Season Interest

Extending the Show Before Catmint Wakes Up

Walker’s Low catmint emerges in mid-spring. Before that, the border can look bare. Spring bulbs solve this problem perfectly. They bloom, then their foliage ripens just as catmint hits its stride. The catmint’s fresh growth hides the yellowing bulb leaves. This is a classic succession planting technique. It is one of the smartest answers to what to plant with Walker’s Low catmint for a longer season of interest.

Best Bulb Companions

Alliums: Ornamental onions. ‘Globemaster’ and ‘Gladiator’ have huge purple globes on tall stems. ‘Purple Sensation’ is earlier and shorter. ‘Schubertii’ looks like fireworks. Allium foliage emerges early and dies back early. Perfect. Daffodils (Narcissus): Choose early and mid-season varieties. ‘Tete-a-Tete’ is miniature. ‘Ice Follies’ is white with yellow cup. ‘Thalia’ is pure white, fragrant, and late. Deer proof. Species Tulips: ‘Tarda’, ‘Clusiana’, ‘Kaufmanniana’ types. They perennialize better than hybrid tulips. Short stature. Crocus: Tommies (Crocus tommasinianus) resist squirrels. Bloom very early. Muscari: Grape hyacinth. Intense blue spikes. Spreads gently. Camassia: Native North American bulb. Blue or white spires. Tolerates moist soil. Blooms late spring.

Planting Bulbs with Catmint

Plant bulbs in fall. Dig holes between catmint crowns. Add a little bulb fertilizer. Cover and water. In spring, let bulb foliage yellow completely before removing. The catmint will cover it. Mark bulb locations so you do not accidentally dig them up when dividing catmint. A bulb planter with a long handle makes this easy. This layering technique is used in the world’s great gardens. It works in yours too.

Design Principles for Companion Planting

Repetition and Rhythm

Great gardens repeat plants, colors, and forms. When you decide what to plant with Walker’s Low catmint, buy multiples. Three, five, seven, or nine of each companion. Plant them in drifts, not polka dots. A drift of catmint, then a drift of salvia, then a drift of coneflower. The eye moves smoothly along the border. Repetition creates cohesion. It makes a garden look designed, not collected.

Height Layering

Arrange plants by height. Tall in back (or center of island bed), medium in middle, short in front. Walker’s Low catmint is medium height at 24 to 30 inches. Put taller plants behind it: Russian sage, tall grasses, Verbena bonariensis, hollyhocks. Put shorter plants in front: blue fescue, lamb’s ear, sedum ‘Angelina’, thyme, dianthus. This layering ensures every plant gets its moment in the sun.

Foliage First, Flowers Second

Flowers are fleeting. Foliage lasts all season. Choose companions with interesting leaves. Silver, gold, burgundy, variegated, fine, bold, spiky, round. Catmint has soft gray-green foliage. Contrast it with the needles of rosemary, the straps of daylilies, the paddles of bergenia, the lace of yarrow. When flowers fade, the foliage tapestry remains beautiful.

Color Theory in the Garden

Catmint’s lavender-blue is a cool color. It plays well with others. Analogous scheme: Blue, purple, pink. Salvias, coneflowers, bee balm. Harmonious and soothing. Complementary scheme: Blue with orange/yellow. Yarrow ‘Moonshine’, black-eyed Susan, butterfly weed, marigolds. High energy, vibrant. Monochromatic scheme: Shades of blue and purple only. Catmint, ‘May Night’ salvia, ‘Walker’s Low’ catmint, ‘Blue Hill’ salvia, alliums, asters. Sophisticated and calm. Pastel scheme: Add white, pale pink, soft yellow. ‘Iceberg’ rose, white coneflower, pale yellow yarrow. Romantic and soft.

Seasonal Care Calendar for Catmint and Companions

Early Spring (March-April)

Cut back catmint to 3-4 inches. Cut back grasses to 6 inches before new growth starts. Remove winter mulch from crowns. Divide overcrowded perennials. Plant new companions. Apply a light topdressing of compost. No heavy fertilizer.

Late Spring (May-June)

First catmint flush begins. Stake tall companions if needed (delphiniums, tall dahlias). Deadhead spring bulbs but leave foliage. Watch for aphids on new growth. Blast with water or use insecticidal soap. Enjoy the first big show.

Early Summer (July)

Catmint first flush fades. Shear catmint by half. Shear salvias by half. Deadhead roses. Water deeply if drought persists. Mulch bare soil. This is the “Chelsea Chop” time for many perennials.

Mid to Late Summer (August-September)

Second flush on catmint and salvias. Coneflowers, black-eyed Susans, Russian sage, grasses in full glory. Deadhead spent blooms to encourage more. Leave some seed heads for birds. Divide bearded iris if needed.

Fall (October-November)

Stop deadheading. Let seed heads form. Plant spring bulbs among catmint. Add mulch after ground freezes. Leave grasses and seed heads standing for winter interest and wildlife. Clean up only diseased foliage.

Winter (December-February)

Enjoy the structure. Grasses catch snow. Seed heads feed birds. Catmint crowns rest under snow. Plan next year’s additions. Order bare-root roses and perennials for early spring planting.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Overwatering and Overfertilizing

This is the number one killer of Walker’s Low catmint and its Mediterranean companions. Rich soil and frequent water produce lush, floppy growth that falls apart. It also reduces essential oils, meaning less fragrance and less pest resistance. Lean soil, infrequent deep watering, and zero fertilizer (or a single light compost topdressing in spring) produce the strongest, most floriferous plants. Treat them mean, keep them keen.

Planting in Shade

Catmint needs sun. Six hours minimum. Eight is better. In shade, it stretches, flops, and flowers poorly. Powdery mildew becomes an issue. Companions like lavender, Russian sage, and most salvias also demand full sun. Do not try to force this combination in a shady spot. Choose shade-tolerant plants instead: hostas, ferns, heucheras, brunnera.

Ignoring Mature Size

That little 4-inch pot becomes a 3-foot mound. Space plants accordingly. Crowding causes poor air circulation, disease, and maintenance headaches. Check labels for mature width. Add a few extra inches. You can always fill gaps with annuals while perennials bulk up. Proper spacing is crucial when planning what to plant with Walker’s Low catmint.

Skipping the Summer Shear

The July haircut is non-negotiable for a tidy, reblooming catmint. Skip it, and you get a woody, sprawling mess with a few sad flowers at the tips. Shear it, and you get a fresh mound of foliage and weeks more blooms. Same for many salvias. Put it on your calendar. It takes ten minutes per plant.

Container Combinations Featuring Walker’s Low Catmint

Thriller, Filler, Spiller Formula

Walker’s Low catmint makes a fantastic “filler” in large containers. Its mounding habit fills the middle layer beautifully. Pair it with a “thriller” (tall focal point) and a “spiller” (trailing over the edge). Use a gritty, well-draining potting mix. Add perlite or pumice. Ensure the pot has drainage holes. Water when the top inch of soil is dry. Fertilize monthly with diluted balanced fertilizer.

Container Recipe Ideas

Mediterranean Pot: Thriller: Dwarf olive tree or upright rosemary. Filler: Walker’s Low catmint. Spiller: Creeping thyme or ‘Silver Falls’ dichondra. Pollinator Pot: Thriller: ‘Little Spire’ Russian sage. Filler: Walker’s Low catmint. Spiller: Calibrachoa ‘Superbells Lemon Slice’. Modern Monochrome: Thriller: ‘Karl Foerster’ feather reed grass. Filler: Walker’s Low catmint. Spiller: ‘Silver Falls’ dichondra. Cottage Container: Thriller: ‘Guardian Blue’ delphinium (staked). Filler: Walker’s Low catmint. Spiller: Lobelia ‘Techno Heat Upright Blue’.

Overwintering Containers

In zones 5 and colder, containers need protection. Move pots to an unheated garage after a few hard freezes. Water once a month. Or sink pots in the ground and mulch heavily. In zones 6-7, group pots against a protected wall and mulch with straw. In zone 8 and up, containers usually survive outdoors with minimal protection. Catmint is hardy to zone 4 in the ground but less hardy in pots.

Walker’s Low Catmint in Different Garden Styles

Cottage Garden

This is catmint’s native habitat. Billowy, romantic, slightly chaotic. Pair with old roses, foxgloves, delphiniums, hollyhocks, lady’s mantle, hardy geraniums, and peonies. Let plants self-sow and mingle. The catmint softens paths and hides bare legs. Shear it once in July. Otherwise, let it be its wild self.

Modern Minimalist

Clean lines, mass plantings, limited palette. Plant catmint in a long drift along a path or wall. Pair with one grass (like ‘Karl Foerster’ feather reed grass) and one structural shrub (like boxwood balls or yew columns). Mulch with dark gravel. The repetition and restraint create sophistication. Catmint’s softness balances the geometry.

Prairie and Meadow Style

Inspired by Piet Oudolf and the New Perennial Movement. Mix catmint with native grasses (little bluestem, prairie dropseed) and native perennials (coneflower, blazing star, butterfly weed, goldenrod, aster). Plant in interlocking matrices, not blocks. Let seed heads stand all winter. Cut everything down in early spring. This style is ecological, dynamic, and low maintenance.

Gravel Garden and Xeriscape

Sharp drainage, inorganic mulch, drought-tolerant plants. Catmint thrives here. Companions: lavender, Russian sage, yarrow, sedums, euphorbias, agastaches, cistus, phlomis, ornamental onions. The gravel mulch keeps crowns dry and reflects heat. This is the closest to catmint’s native habitat. It performs beautifully with almost zero input.

Pollinator and Wildlife Garden

Focus on nectar, pollen, host plants, and shelter. Catmint provides months of nectar. Add milkweed for monarchs. Add herbs for swallowtails (dill, fennel, parsley). Add berries for birds (serviceberry, viburnum, elderberry). Add a brush pile and bee hotel. Provide water. Avoid all pesticides. Catmint is a cornerstone plant in this garden type.

Propagation: Making More Catmint and Companions

Division

Walker’s Low catmint benefits from division every 3-4 years. Do it in early spring as new growth emerges. Dig the whole clump. Pull or cut into sections with roots and shoots. Replant immediately. Water well. Discard the woody center. Divisions establish fast. This is also the perfect time to divide companion grasses, coneflowers, yarrow, and bee balm. Share extras with friends.

Stem Cuttings

Take 4-inch cuttings in late spring or early summer. Remove lower leaves. Dip in rooting hormone. Stick in moist perlite or sand. Cover with a plastic bag. Place in bright indirect light. Roots in 2-3 weeks. Pot up. This works for catmint, salvias, lavender, rosemary, penstemon, and many other companions. Free plants!

Seed

Catmint does not come true from seed. ‘Walker’s Low’ is a cultivar. Seedlings will vary. But many companions grow easily from seed. Coneflowers, black-eyed Susans, yarrow, coreopsis, blanket flower, and annuals like zinnias and cosmos. Collect seed in fall. Sow in winter (winter sowing in milk jugs) or start indoors in late winter. Direct sow hardy annuals in early spring.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Floppy Catmint

Causes: Too much shade, too rich soil, too much water, too much fertilizer, or missing the July shear. Fix: Move to full sun. Stop fertilizing. Water less. Shear hard in July. Stake temporarily with twine and bamboo if needed. Consider a support ring installed in spring.

Powdery Mildew

White powdery coating on leaves. Causes: Poor air circulation, overhead watering, humidity, shade. Fix: Thin crowded plants. Water at soil level. Improve airflow. Remove badly affected leaves. Spray with milk solution (1 part milk to 9 parts water) or potassium bicarbonate. Choose mildew-resistant companions like ‘Jacob Cline’ bee balm and ‘David’ phlox.

Root Rot

Plant wilts despite wet soil. Roots are brown and mushy. Causes: Poor drainage, overwatering, heavy clay soil. Fix: Improve drainage with grit and raised beds. Water less. Replant in better location if caught early. Prevention is easier than cure. This is why soil prep matters so much when deciding what to plant with Walker’s Low catmint.

Winter Kill

Plant does not emerge in spring. Causes: Wet winter soil, extreme cold without snow cover, late fall fertilization promoting tender growth. Fix: Ensure sharp drainage. Do not fertilize after July. Leave stems standing for winter insulation. Mulch with straw after ground freezes in cold zones. Choose hardy companions rated for your zone.

Budget-Friendly Ways to Fill a Border

Start Small, Think Big

Perennials in 1-gallon pots cost $10-20 each. A border needs dozens. That adds up. Smart strategies: Buy plugs or liners online in bulk. They are small but establish fast. Start from seed for easy perennials (coneflower, yarrow, coreopsis). Divide friends’ plants in spring. Shop end-of-season sales (50-75% off in fall). Join a local plant swap. Check community garden sales. One mature catmint yields 4-6 divisions every few years. Do the math. A $15 plant becomes dozens over time.

Phase Your Planting

Plant the backbone first: catmint, grasses, shrubs. These are the investment pieces. Fill gaps with annuals and fast-growing perennials (coreopsis, gaillardia, annual salvias) while the backbone matures. Add bulbs each fall. Add choice specimens (peonies, tree peonies, special roses) as budget allows. A garden builds over years. Enjoy the process.

Final Thoughts on Companion Planting Success

Knowing what to plant with Walker’s Low catmint opens up a world of garden possibilities. This humble perennial is a team player of the highest order. It makes roses look better. It makes salvias bloom longer. It makes grasses look softer. It makes bulbs disappear gracefully. It feeds bees when little else is blooming. It asks for so little and gives so much.

The best combinations share cultural needs: full sun, sharp drainage, lean soil, low water. They vary in height, texture, bloom time, and form. They repeat in drifts. They layer from ground to sky. They provide interest in every season. Whether you have a tiny urban courtyard or a sprawling country border, the principles are the same.

Start with a few proven pairs. Catmint and ‘Knock Out’ roses. Catmint and ‘May Night’ salvia. Catmint and ‘Hameln’ fountain grass. Catmint and ‘Globemaster’ alliums. Watch how they interact. Take photos. Move things if they are not happy. Gardening is a conversation with nature. Walker’s Low catmint is one of the best listeners out there. Plant it. Pair it. Enjoy it.

Conclusion

Walker’s Low catmint is more than just a pretty plant. It is a design tool. A problem solver. A pollinator cafe. A deer deterrent. A fragrance factory. And the ultimate team player. The companions we have explored; roses, salvias, grasses, Mediterranean herbs, native perennials, annuals, and bulbs; each bring something unique to the partnership. Together, they create gardens that are greater than the sum of their parts.

When you plan your next border, start with catmint. Build around it. Use the design principles of repetition, layering, foliage contrast, and color harmony. Respect the cultural needs. Shear in July. Divide every few years. And most importantly, take time to sit nearby on a summer evening. Watch the bees. Smell the mint. Feel the satisfaction of a garden that works. That is what happens when you know what to plant with Walker’s Low catmint. Happy planting.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does Walker’s Low catmint spread aggressively?

Walker’s Low catmint forms a clump that slowly expands outward but does not run or self-sow aggressively. It stays well-behaved in the border and only needs division every 3-4 years to maintain vigor.

What is the difference between catmint and catnip?

Catmint (Nepeta x faassenii) is grown for ornamental flowers and foliage. Catnip (Nepeta cataria) is a weedy herb grown for cats. Walker’s Low is a sterile hybrid catmint that does not attract cats the way catnip does.

Can Walker’s Low catmint grow in partial shade?

It tolerates light shade but flowers poorly and becomes leggy. For best results, provide at least six hours of direct sun. In hot southern climates, afternoon shade is acceptable.

Why is my Walker’s Low catmint flopping open in the center?

Flopping is usually caused by rich soil, too much water, too much shade, or missing the mid-summer shear. Plant in lean soil, water deeply but infrequently, and cut back by half after the first bloom.

When is the best time to divide Walker’s Low catmint?

Early spring, just as new growth emerges, is the ideal time. Dig the clump, pull apart into sections with roots and shoots, and replant immediately. Water well until established.

What spring bulbs pair well with Walker’s Low catmint?

Alliums, daffodils, species tulips, crocus, muscari, and camassia all bloom before or alongside catmint’s first flush. Catmint’s emerging foliage neatly hides the bulbs’ yellowing leaves.