What Kind of Plant Is Catmint

What Kind of Plant Is Catmint

Catmint (Nepeta) is a hardy perennial herb belonging to the mint family Lamiaceae, prized for its aromatic foliage, lavender-blue flowers, and ability to attract pollinators. Unlike its famous cousin catnip, catmint is primarily grown as an ornamental garden plant that offers months of color with minimal maintenance.

If you have ever wandered through a sunny garden in early summer and noticed clouds of lavender-blue flowers buzzing with bees, chances are you were looking at catmint. This charming perennial has become a staple in gardens across the country, and for good reason. It offers months of color, asks for very little in return, and brings life to the landscape in more ways than one.

But what kind of plant is catmint exactly? Is it the same thing as catnip? Will it take over your garden like mint? And why do cats seem to like it but not go crazy for it? We are going to answer all of those questions and more. Think of this as your complete guide to understanding, growing, and loving catmint.

Key Takeaways

  • Botanical identity: Catmint belongs to the genus Nepeta in the mint family, with over 250 species worldwide
  • Not the same as catnip: While related, catmint (Nepeta × faassenii) is ornamental while catnip (Nepeta cataria) drives cats wild
  • Long blooming season: Most varieties flower from late spring through fall with proper deadheading
  • Drought tolerant: Once established, catmint thrives in dry conditions and poor soil
  • Pollinator magnet: Bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds flock to the nectar-rich blooms
  • Low maintenance: Requires minimal watering, no fertilizer, and only annual pruning
  • Versatile landscape uses: Works in borders, rock gardens, containers, and as ground cover

Quick Answers to Common Questions

Is catmint the same as catnip?

No. Catmint (Nepeta × faassenii) is an ornamental perennial grown for flowers. Catnip (Nepeta cataria) is grown for its effect on cats. They are related but distinct plants.

Does catmint come back every year?

Yes. Catmint is a hardy perennial in USDA zones 3-8. It dies back in winter and returns from the roots each spring.

How much sun does catmint need?

Catmint needs full sun, at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily, for best flowering and compact growth.

When should I cut back catmint?

Shear back by half in early July after the first bloom flush (the Chelsea Chop) to encourage a heavy second bloom. Cut dead foliage to the ground in early spring.

Will catmint spread and take over my garden?

No. Catmint forms neat clumps and does not run by underground rhizomes like true mint. Sterile hybrids do not self-seed.

Understanding the Botany: What Exactly Is Catmint?

The Family Tree

Let us start with the science. Catmint belongs to the genus Nepeta, which sits inside the family Lamiaceae. You might know this family better as the mint family or the deadnettle family. It is a huge group that includes heavy hitters like basil, rosemary, sage, thyme, lavender, and of course, true mint.

There are roughly 250 to 300 species of Nepeta found naturally across Europe, Asia, and Africa. They range from low-growing creepers to upright clumps reaching three feet tall. The name Nepeta is believed to come from Nepete, an ancient Etruscan city in what is now Italy, where the plant grew abundantly.

Catmint vs. Catnip: The Critical Distinction

This is the number one source of confusion. People use the terms interchangeably, but they refer to different plants with very different purposes.

Catnip (Nepeta cataria) is the one that sends cats into a frenzy. It contains high levels of nepetalactone, the compound that triggers the euphoric response in about two-thirds of cats. It is a somewhat weedy, coarse plant with white flowers spotted with pale purple. Gardeners rarely grow it for looks. They grow it for their cats.

Catmint (usually Nepeta × faassenii or Nepeta racemosa) is the ornamental superstar. It has been bred for dense mounds of gray-green foliage and masses of showy flowers in shades of blue, lavender, pink, and white. It contains nepetalactone too, but in much lower concentrations. Your cat might roll on it or nibble a leaf, but you will not see the wild zoomies and drooling that catnip inspires.

What Does Catmint Look Like?

Picture a rounded mound of small, aromatic, gray-green leaves. The leaves are opposite, heart-shaped at the base, and have scalloped edges. They release a pleasant, minty-spicy scent when brushed or crushed.

From late spring well into fall, the plant sends up spikes of two-lipped tubular flowers. The classic color is a soft lavender-blue, but cultivars exist in deep violet, pale pink, and crisp white. The calyxes (the green base holding the petals) often stay colorful after the petals drop, extending the show.

The Classics: Nepeta × faassenii Cultivars

This hybrid group is the backbone of the catmint world. They are sterile, meaning they do not set seed and will not pop up all over your garden uninvited.

  • ‘Walker’s Low’: Despite the name, this is not a ground cover. It reaches 24 to 30 inches tall and wide. It was named Perennial Plant of the Year in 2007. The flowers are a rich lavender-blue.
  • ‘Six Hills Giant’: A larger, older cultivar hitting 36 inches. Great for the back of a border. The flowers are a slightly paler blue.
  • ‘Blue Wonder’: Compact at 12 to 15 inches. Perfect for the front edge or containers.
  • ‘Junior Walker’: A dwarf version of ‘Walker’s Low’ topping out around 18 inches. Ideal for small spaces.

The Species Types

Nepeta racemosa (Racemose Catmint): One parent of the hybrids above. It is lower and spreads more freely. ‘Little Titch’ is a tiny cultivar at just 8 to 10 inches.

Nepeta sibirica (Siberian Catmint): Upright and bushy to 3 feet. Blooms a bit later with larger, darker violet-blue flowers. ‘Souvenir d’Andre Chaudron’ is a popular selection.

Nepeta grandiflora (Large-flowered Catmint): As the name suggests, bigger blooms on a 30-inch plant. ‘Bramdean’ and ‘Dawn to Dusk’ (pale pink) are standouts.

Newer Introductions Worth Watching

Breeders keep pushing the envelope. ‘Cat’s Pajamas’ and ‘Cat’s Meow’ from Proven Winners are bred for extreme flower power and tidy habits. ‘Neptune’ offers deep blue flowers on a compact 12-inch mound. ‘Purple Haze’ spreads wider than tall, making a great ground cover.

Why Gardeners Love Catmint: Benefits Beyond Beauty

A Pollinator Powerhouse

If you want to support bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds, plant catmint. The tubular flowers are perfectly shaped for long-tongued pollinators. Honeybees, bumblebees, mason bees, and leafcutter bees all visit constantly. Butterflies like skippers and swallowtails nectar on the blooms. Hummingbirds zip in for a quick sip.

Because catmint blooms for months, it provides a reliable food source when other flowers have faded. It is especially valuable in early summer, bridging the gap between spring bulbs and high-summer perennials.

Deer and Rabbit Resistance

Here is a huge win for rural and suburban gardeners. The aromatic oils that make catmint smell good to us make it taste bad to deer and rabbits. They almost always leave it alone. I say “almost” because a starving animal will eat anything, but in normal conditions, catmint is one of the most reliable critter-proof plants you can grow.

Drought Tolerance Once Established

Catmint hails from dry, rocky hillsides in the Mediterranean and Central Asia. It has a deep taproot and woody crown that store water. After the first growing season, you can pretty much forget about watering it unless you hit a serious drought. This makes it a star for xeriscaping, hellstrips, and any spot the hose does not reach.

Soil Adaptability

Rich soil? Fine. Poor soil? Fine. Sandy? Great. Clay? Okay if it drains. Alkaline? Acidic? Neutral? Catmint does not care much. The only non-negotiable is drainage. It will rot in soggy winter soil.

Long Season of Interest

Most perennials bloom for two to three weeks. Catmint blooms for two to three months. With a mid-summer haircut (more on that later), you get a second flush that carries right up to frost. The foliage stays attractive all season, forming a neat mound that suppresses weeds.

How to Grow Catmint Successfully

Choosing the Right Spot

Full sun is best. That means at least six hours of direct sun daily. In the hottest southern zones, a little afternoon shade is appreciated and can prevent the foliage from bleaching. Too much shade leads to floppy stems and fewer flowers.

Air circulation matters. Space plants according to their mature width. Crowding invites fungal issues like powdery mildew, especially in humid climates.

Planting Catmint

Spring and early fall are ideal planting times. Summer works if you are diligent about watering until established.

  1. Dig a hole twice as wide as the pot and just as deep.
  2. Loosen the root ball gently if it is pot-bound.
  3. Set the plant so the crown sits at soil level.
  4. Backfill with native soil. No need to amend unless your soil is truly terrible.
  5. Water thoroughly to settle the soil.
  6. Mulch with an inch of gravel, shredded bark, or pine straw. Keep mulch away from the crown.

Watering and Feeding

Water regularly the first season to develop that deep root system. Once established, catmint is remarkably self-sufficient. In average rainfall areas, you may never need to water it again.

Fertilizer? Skip it. Rich soil makes catmint leggy and floppy with fewer flowers. Lean conditions keep it compact and floriferous. A shovel of compost around the base in early spring is plenty if you feel compelled to do something.

The Chelsea Chop and Deadheading

This is the secret to non-stop blooms. Around late June or early July, when the first flush is fading, shear the whole plant back by half. Use hedge shears or a string trimmer. It looks brutal for a week, then fresh growth erupts from the base and you get a second heavy bloom in August and September.

If you cannot bring yourself to shear it all, at least deadhead spent flower spikes. Snip them back to a leaf node. This prevents seeding (though hybrids are mostly sterile) and encourages rebloom.

Dividing and Longevity

Catmint can live for many years, but the center of the clump may die out after three to five years, leaving a donut shape. In early spring, dig up the clump, discard the woody center, and replant the vigorous outer sections. You will get free plants and rejuvenate the original.

Designing with Catmint: Garden Companions and Uses

Classic Pairings

Catmint’s soft blue flowers and gray foliage play well with almost everything. Some time-tested combos:

  • Roses: The classic English garden pairing. Catmint hides the bare knees of rose bushes and blooms at the same time. The blue contrasts beautifully with pink, yellow, white, or red roses.
  • Salvias: Both love sun and drainage. Try catmint with ‘May Night’ salvia for a blue-on-blue effect, or ‘Hot Lips’ for contrast.
  • Yarrow (Achillea): Flat-topped yarrow flowers in yellow, pink, or red float above the catmint spikes.
  • Coneflowers (Echinacea): The daisy shapes complement the spikes. ‘Magnus’ purple coneflower with ‘Walker’s Low’ is a knockout.
  • Ornamental Grasses: Fine-textured grasses like Stipa tenuissima (Mexican feather grass) or Pennisetum (fountain grass) add movement.

Landscape Roles

Border Edge

Low cultivars like ‘Blue Wonder’ or ‘Little Titch’ make a tidy, flowering edging along paths and beds. They soften hard lines and release fragrance when brushed.

Rock Gardens and Slopes

The drainage catmint demands is exactly what rock gardens provide. It cascades beautifully over stones and stabilizes slopes with its root system.

Container Plantings

Catmint thrives in pots. Use a gritty, well-draining mix. Combine with other sun-loving, drought-tolerant plants like sedums, thyme, or dwarf lavenders. Remember pots dry out faster, so water when the top inch of soil is dry.

Ground Cover

Spreading types like Nepeta racemosa ‘Walker’s Low’ (ironically a spreader despite the name) or ‘Purple Haze’ can cover large sunny banks. Space them 18 inches apart for quick fill.

Herb and Vegetable Gardens

Plant catmint near vegetables to draw pollinators for squash, cucumbers, and tomatoes. Its scent may also confuse pests looking for their host plants. Just keep it contained so it does not crowd your crops.

Catmint and Cats: What to Expect

The Cat Reaction

As mentioned, catmint contains nepetalactone, but less than catnip. Reactions vary wildly. Some cats ignore it completely. Others rub against it, chew a few leaves, or nap in the mound. A few get mildly silly. You will not typically see the intense rolling, drooling, and hyperactivity triggered by catnip.

If you have outdoor cats, they may flatten young plants by sleeping on them. Mature plants usually bounce back. If it is a problem, lay chicken wire over the crown until the plant toughens up, or plant a sacrificial patch of actual catnip elsewhere to distract them.

Is Catmint Safe for Cats?

Yes. Catmint is non-toxic to cats, dogs, and horses according to the ASPCA. Eating large amounts might cause mild stomach upset, but cats generally self-regulate. The bigger risk is your cat crushing the plant, not the plant hurting your cat.

Troubleshooting Common Catmint Problems

Floppy, Leggy Growth Habits

If your catmint splits open in the middle, exposing woody stems, it usually means one of three things: too much shade, too much fertilizer, or it needs dividing. Full sun, lean soil, and division every few years prevent this.

Powdery Mildew

In humid climates or with poor air circulation, you may see a white powdery coating on leaves. It is rarely fatal but looks unsightly. Improve spacing, avoid overhead watering, and choose resistant cultivars like ‘Walker’s Low’. A spray of neem oil or potassium bicarbonate at first sign helps.

Root Rot

This is the killer. Heavy clay soil that stays wet in winter will rot the crown. If your soil drains poorly, plant catmint in raised beds, berms, or containers. Amending with coarse sand or fine gravel at planting time helps.

Aphids and Spider Mites

Occasionally aphids cluster on new growth or spider mites appear in hot, dry weather. A strong blast of water dislodges both. Insecticidal soap works if needed. Beneficial insects usually keep them in check naturally.

Winter Survival

Catmint is hardy in USDA zones 3 to 8, some cultivars to zone 9. In the coldest zones, leave the dead foliage standing over winter. It insulates the crown. Cut back in early spring before new growth emerges. A light mulch of evergreen boughs helps in zone 3.

Harvesting and Using Catmint

For Tea and Culinary Use

Yes, you can drink catmint tea. The leaves make a pleasant, mild mint tea with subtle citrus notes. It is caffeine-free and traditionally used as a relaxing evening beverage. Harvest stems just as flowers open for the best flavor. Dry upside down in small bundles in a dark, airy place. Store dried leaves in airtight jars.

Fresh leaves can be chopped into fruit salads, used as a garnish for desserts, or muddled into summer cocktails. The flowers are edible too and make a pretty garnish.

For Cats

Dry stems and leaves, then crumble into cloth sachets or sprinkle on scratching posts. Stuff a sock with dried catmint for a DIY cat toy. Remember, the effect is milder than catnip.

For Crafts

The dried flower spikes retain their color well. Use them in wreaths, potpourri, or pressed flower projects. The aromatic foliage adds scent to sachets and drawer fresheners.

Catmint Through the Seasons

Spring

New growth emerges from the woody base as a tidy mound of gray-green leaves. This is the time to divide old clumps, apply a thin compost layer, and remove any winter mulch from the crown.

Early Summer

First major bloom begins. The plant is a cloud of color. Bees are everywhere. Enjoy the show.

Mid-Summer

First flush fades. Time for the Chelsea Chop. Shear back by half. Water well after cutting to push new growth.

Late Summer to Fall

Second bloom arrives, often heavier than the first. Continues until hard frost. Foliage stays clean and attractive.

Winter

Plant goes dormant. In mild climates, some basal foliage may persist. In cold climates, it disappears entirely. Leave stems standing for winter interest and crown protection.

Frequently Asked Questions About Catmint

Does catmint spread aggressively like mint?

No. True mint (Mentha) runs by underground runners and can take over a garden. Catmint (Nepeta) is a clump-former. It slowly expands outward but does not send runners across the bed. The sterile hybrids like ‘Walker’s Low’ do not self-seed either. It is well-behaved.

Can I grow catmint indoors?

It is difficult. Catmint needs intense light, excellent air circulation, and a winter dormancy period. Indoors it tends to get leggy, attract spider mites, and decline. Grow it outside. If you need indoor cat greens, grow catnip or cat grass instead.

Why is my catmint not blooming?

Usually insufficient sun (needs 6+ hours), too much nitrogen fertilizer, or the plant is old and woody. Move to a sunnier spot, stop fertilizing, or divide and replant the vigorous outer pieces.

Is catmint invasive?

In most of North America, the cultivated hybrids are not invasive. They are sterile and clump-forming. However, the straight species Nepeta cataria (catnip) and Nepeta racemosa can self-seed readily. Check your local extension office for regional concerns.

Can I grow catmint from seed?

You can, but named cultivars will not come true from seed. You will get variable seedlings. For specific varieties, buy plants or propagate by division or cuttings. Species types like Nepeta racemosa grow easily from seed sown indoors 6-8 weeks before last frost.

How do I propagate catmint?

Division in early spring is easiest. Dig the clump, pull or cut into sections with roots and shoots, replant. Softwood cuttings in late spring root quickly in moist perlite. Layering works too: pin a low stem to the soil, cover with soil, wait for roots, then sever.

Conclusion: Why Catmint Deserves a Spot in Your Garden

So, what kind of plant is catmint? It is a hardworking, beautiful, pollinator-friendly perennial that asks for little and gives months of color. It bridges the gap between herb garden and flower border. It handles heat, drought, and poor soil with grace. It resists deer and rabbits. It gives you flowers for cutting, leaves for tea, and entertainment for your cat.

Whether you choose the classic ‘Walker’s Low’ for a romantic rose companion, ‘Blue Wonder’ to edge a sunny path, or ‘Purple Haze’ to cascade down a stone wall, catmint delivers. It is one of those plants that makes gardening feel easy. You plant it once, shear it once in July, and enjoy the show for years.

If you have a sunny spot with decent drainage, do yourself a favor and add catmint this season. Your bees will thank you. Your cats might thank you. And you will wonder how you ever gardened without it.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between catmint and catnip?

Catmint (Nepeta × faassenii) is an ornamental perennial bred for showy flowers and tidy habits. Catnip (Nepeta cataria) is a weedy species high in nepetalactone that causes euphoria in cats. Catmint has lower nepetalactone levels and is grown for landscape value.

How do I keep catmint blooming all summer?

Perform the Chelsea Chop in early July by shearing the plant back by half after the first flush fades. This triggers fresh growth and a second heavy bloom period lasting into fall. Deadheading spent spikes also helps.

Is catmint deer resistant?

Yes. The aromatic oils in catmint foliage make it highly unpalatable to deer and rabbits. It is one of the most reliable deer-resistant perennials for sunny gardens.

Can catmint grow in shade?

Catmint tolerates light shade but performs best in full sun. In shade, plants become leggy, produce fewer flowers, and are more prone to powdery mildew. At least 6 hours of sun is recommended.

How do I divide catmint?

In early spring, dig up the entire clump. Discard the woody, dead center. Separate the vigorous outer sections with roots and shoots. Replant divisions at the same depth, water well, and mulch lightly.

Is catmint safe for pets?

Yes. The ASPCA lists catmint as non-toxic to cats, dogs, and horses. Cats may nibble or roll on it, but the effect is much milder than catnip. Large ingestion could cause mild stomach upset.

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