Walker’s Low Catmint Planting

Walker’s Low catmint (Nepeta × faassenii ‘Walker’s Low’) is a hardy, low-maintenance perennial that produces stunning lavender-blue flowers from late spring through fall. This award-winning plant thrives in full sun, tolerates drought once established, and attracts pollinators while resisting deer and rabbits.

Key Takeaways

• Plant in full sun: Walker’s Low needs at least six hours of direct sunlight daily for the best flowering and compact growth.
• Well-draining soil is essential: This catmint hates wet feet. Amend heavy clay with compost or grit to improve drainage.
• Space plants 18 to 24 inches apart: Proper spacing allows air circulation and prevents fungal issues as the plant matures.
• Water deeply but infrequently: Once established, this plant is drought-tolerant. Overwatering leads to floppy stems and root rot.
• Shear after the first bloom: Cutting back by half in midsummer encourages a second flush of flowers and keeps plants tidy.
• Divide every three to four years: Division in early spring rejuvenates crowded clumps and gives you free plants for other garden spots.
• Deer and rabbit resistant: The aromatic foliage naturally deters browsing animals, making it perfect for unfenced gardens.

Quick Answers to Common Questions

When is the best time to plant Walker’s Low catmint?

Spring and early fall are ideal. Spring planting gives roots time to establish before summer heat. Fall planting should be done at least six weeks before the first frost.

How much sun does Walker’s Low catmint need?

At least six hours of direct sun daily. Eight hours is even better for compact growth and maximum flowering.

How often should I water established catmint?

Once established, water deeply only during extended dry spells every two to three weeks. Overwatering causes floppy stems and root rot.

Should I deadhead Walker’s Low catmint?

Deadheading is not necessary. Instead, shear the entire plant back by half after the first bloom fades in midsummer to encourage a second flush of flowers.

Is Walker’s Low catmint the same as catnip?

No. Catnip (Nepeta cataria) strongly attracts cats and is weedy. Walker’s Low catmint (Nepeta × faassenii ‘Walker’s Low’) is ornamental, low-maintenance, and far less appealing to cats.

Why Walker’s Low Catmint Deserves a Spot in Your Garden

If you have ever walked past a garden border buzzing with bees and butterflies, chances are you have seen Walker’s Low catmint in action. This perennial workhorse has earned its place as a garden favorite for good reason. It blooms for months on end, asks for very little in return, and looks gorgeous whether planted in drifts along a pathway or tucked into a mixed border.

I first discovered this plant when I was looking for something to soften the edge of a sunny gravel path. Three years later, those original plants are still going strong. They have survived scorching summers, a few neglectful weeks when I forgot to water, and even the curiosity of my neighbor’s cat. The lavender-blue flower spikes just keep coming, and the silvery-green foliage stays attractive from spring until frost.

In this guide, I will walk you through everything you need to know about planting and growing Walker’s Low catmint. From picking the right spot to keeping your plants looking their best year after year, you will have all the information you need to make this perennial a star in your own garden.

Getting to Know Walker’s Low Catmint

What Makes This Variety Special

Walker’s Low is a cultivar of Nepeta × faassenii, a hybrid between Nepeta racemosa and Nepeta nepetella. Despite the name, “Low” does not refer to the plant’s height. It was actually named after the garden in Ireland where it was discovered. This catmint grows 24 to 30 inches tall and spreads 18 to 24 inches wide, forming a neat mound of aromatic, gray-green leaves.

The flowers appear in late spring on spikes that rise above the foliage. Each spike carries dozens of tiny, tubular lavender-blue blossoms. The show continues through summer and often into fall, especially if you give the plant a midsummer haircut. In 2007, the Perennial Plant Association named Walker’s Low the Perennial Plant of the Year, cementing its status as a garden classic.

Catmint vs. Catnip: Clearing Up the Confusion

Many gardeners confuse catmint with catnip (Nepeta cataria). While they are cousins, they behave very differently in the garden. Catnip is the one that sends cats into a frenzy. It is also a bit weedy and not particularly ornamental. Walker’s Low catmint contains much less of the compound that affects cats. Your feline friends might sniff it or rub against it, but they will not destroy it. Meanwhile, pollinators absolutely love it. Bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds visit the flowers constantly.

Hardiness and Growing Zones

Walker’s Low catmint is hardy in USDA zones 3 through 8. That covers a huge swath of the country, from chilly Minnesota winters to the milder climates of the Pacific Northwest and the Mid-Atlantic. In the warmest parts of its range, it appreciates a bit of afternoon shade. In colder zones, it dies back to the ground in winter and returns reliably in spring.

Choosing the Perfect Spot

Sunlight Requirements

Full sun is the secret to strong, upright growth and maximum flowers. Aim for at least six hours of direct sun each day. Eight hours is even better. In partial shade, the plants will still grow, but they tend to get leggy and flop open in the center. You will also see fewer flowers. If your garden only offers four to five hours of sun, you can still grow catmint, but expect a looser habit and a shorter bloom season.

Soil Conditions

This is where many gardeners go wrong. Walker’s Low catmint is native to rocky, well-drained soils in Europe and Asia. It despises heavy, wet clay. If your soil stays soggy after rain, the roots will rot. The ideal soil is lean, gritty, and fast-draining. A slightly alkaline to neutral pH (6.5 to 7.5) is perfect, but the plant is adaptable as long as drainage is good.

Where to Plant in Your Landscape

Think about where you want waves of blue color and pollinator activity. Walker’s Low shines in these spots:

• Along sunny pathways and driveways where the foliage can spill over edges
• In rock gardens or gravel gardens where drainage is naturally sharp
• As a front-of-border plant in perennial beds, paired with taller companions behind it
• In cottage gardens mixed with roses, salvias, and ornamental grasses
• On slopes or banks where its spreading habit helps control erosion
• In containers on sunny patios (choose a pot at least 12 inches wide with drainage holes)

Companion Planting Ideas

The soft blue flowers and silvery foliage play well with almost anything. Some of my favorite combinations include:

• Roses: The classic pairing. Catmint hides the bare legs of rose bushes and blooms at the same time.
• Salvia ‘May Night’: Deep purple spikes contrast beautifully with the lighter blue catmint.
• Echinacea (coneflower): Pink or white daisies rise above the catmint mound.
• Ornamental grasses: Little bluestem or fountain grass adds texture and movement.
• Yarrow: Flat-topped flower clusters in yellow, pink, or white complement the spiky catmint blooms.
• Lavender: A Mediterranean duo that thrives in the same lean, sunny conditions.

Preparing Your Soil

Testing Drainage

Before you plant, do a simple drainage test. Dig a hole 12 inches deep and 12 inches wide. Fill it with water and let it drain completely. Fill it again. If the water disappears within two to three hours, your drainage is excellent. If it takes six to eight hours, it is acceptable. If water sits for more than eight hours, you have a drainage problem that needs fixing before planting catmint.

Amending Heavy Clay

If you garden on clay, do not just dig a hole and fill it with good soil. That creates a “bathtub effect” where water collects in the planting hole. Instead, amend a wide area. Spread two to three inches of coarse sand, fine gravel, or expanded shale over the planting bed, along with two inches of compost. Work it all in to a depth of 12 inches. This creates a transition zone that encourages roots to spread beyond the original hole.

Improving Sandy Soil

Very sandy soil drains too fast and holds few nutrients. Mix in two to three inches of compost or well-rotted manure to improve moisture retention and fertility. Catmint does not need rich soil, but pure sand will have you watering constantly.

Raised Beds and Berms

If your soil is stubbornly heavy or your water table is high, build a raised bed or berm. Mound soil 12 to 18 inches above grade using a mix of native soil, compost, and grit. Plant your catmint in the mound. This guarantees the sharp drainage these plants crave.

Planting Your Walker’s Low Catmint

When to Plant

Spring and early fall are the best planting times. In spring, wait until the soil has warmed and danger of hard frost has passed. This gives roots time to establish before summer heat. In fall, plant at least six weeks before your average first frost date so roots can settle in before winter. Summer planting works too, but you will need to water more diligently.

Spacing Guidelines

Space plants 18 to 24 inches apart on center. This feels wide when you are planting small nursery pots, but mature plants will fill the gap quickly. Crowded plants have poor air circulation, which invites powdery mildew and fungal issues. If you are planting a drift or mass, stagger the rows in a triangular pattern for a natural look.

Step-by-Step Planting Process

Follow these steps for a successful start:

1. Water the plant thoroughly while it is still in its nursery pot. This reduces transplant shock.
2. Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball and just as deep.
3. Loosen the roots gently with your fingers if they are circling the pot. Tease them outward so they grow into the surrounding soil.
4. Set the plant in the hole so the top of the root ball sits level with the surrounding soil. Planting too deep buries the crown and leads to rot.
5. Backfill with the native soil you removed. Do not add fertilizer or rich amendments to the planting hole. You want roots to explore outward, not stay in a pocket of luxury.
6. Firm the soil gently with your hands to eliminate air pockets.
7. Water deeply to settle the soil around the roots.
8. Apply mulch in a thin layer (one inch max) keeping it away from the crown. Gravel, shredded bark, or pine straw all work well.

Planting in Containers

Choose a container at least 12 inches in diameter with drainage holes. Use a gritty potting mix designed for cacti and succulents, or make your own by mixing two parts potting soil with one part coarse sand or perlite. Plant at the same depth as in the nursery pot. Water well after planting. Container plants need more frequent watering than in-ground plants, but the same rule applies: let the top inch of soil dry out between waterings.

Caring for Your Catmint Through the Seasons

Watering: The Goldilocks Approach

Newly planted catmint needs regular water for the first four to six weeks. Water deeply twice a week if there is no rain. The goal is to encourage roots to grow downward. Once established (usually after the first full growing season), Walker’s Low is remarkably drought-tolerant. In most climates, rainfall alone is enough. During extended dry spells, a deep soaking every two to three weeks keeps it blooming. The biggest mistake? Overwatering. Soggy soil causes floppy stems, fewer flowers, and root rot.

Fertilizing: Less Is More

Catmint thrives in lean soil. Too much nitrogen produces lush foliage at the expense of flowers and makes stems weak and floppy. In most gardens, no fertilizer is needed. If your soil is very poor, a light scattering of balanced slow-release fertilizer (like 10-10-10) in early spring is plenty. Alternatively, top-dress with an inch of compost in spring. Skip the liquid feeds and heavy manure applications.

The Midsummer Shear: Secret to Rebloom

This is the single most important maintenance task. After the first big flush of flowers fades in early to midsummer, the plant starts to look tired. Stems get long and the center may open up. Grab your hedge shears or hand pruners and cut the entire plant back by half. Yes, half. It looks drastic, but within two weeks you will see fresh gray-green growth. Within three to four weeks, a second wave of flowers appears. This shear also prevents the plant from seeding around aggressively.

Fall and Winter Care

In cold climates, leave the foliage standing through winter. The dried stems catch snow and insulate the crown. They also provide shelter for beneficial insects. In early spring, just as new growth appears at the base, cut the old stems down to about two inches above the ground. In warmer zones where the plant stays semi-evergreen, you can tidy up ragged foliage anytime, but the main cutback is still best done in early spring.

Dividing: Renewal and Free Plants

Every three to four years, the center of a catmint clump may die out, leaving a ring of growth around a bare middle. This is your cue to divide. Early spring is the ideal time, just as new shoots emerge. Dig up the entire clump. Use a sharp spade or knife to cut it into sections, each with healthy roots and several shoots. Discard the woody, dead center. Replant the divisions at the same depth, water well, and mulch. You will have vigorous new plants and plenty to share with friends.

Common Problems and Solutions

Floppy, Sprawling Stems

If your catmint flops open in the center like a bad hair day, the cause is usually too much shade, too much water, too much fertilizer, or all three. Move it to a sunnier spot, cut back on watering, stop fertilizing, and do the midsummer shear. Staking is a band-aid; fixing the cultural conditions is the cure.

Powdery Mildew

This fungal disease appears as a white, powdery coating on leaves. It shows up in humid weather with poor air circulation. Prevention is key: space plants properly, water at the base (not overhead), and ensure full sun. If mildew appears, remove affected leaves and improve airflow. A spray of neem oil or potassium bicarbonate can help, but the plant usually outgrows it once conditions improve.

Root Rot

Yellowing leaves, wilting despite moist soil, and a foul smell from the root zone spell root rot. This is almost always a drainage issue. If caught early, you can dig up the plant, trim away rotted roots, and replant in a better-drained location or raised bed. Often, though, the plant is a goner. Prevention through proper soil preparation is far easier than treatment.

Spider Mites

These tiny pests show up in hot, dry weather. Leaves look stippled or bronzed, and you may see fine webbing. A strong blast of water from the hose knocks them off. Insecticidal soap or neem oil works for heavier infestations. Keeping plants well-watered during drought reduces stress and makes them less susceptible.

Cat Damage

While Walker’s Low is far less attractive to cats than true catnip, some felines still like to roll on it or nap in the center, flattening the plant. If this is a recurring issue, place a few short stakes or a decorative wire cage over the plant in spring. The foliage will grow through and hide the support, but cats cannot crush the crown.

Designing With Walker’s Low Catmint

Mass Plantings for Maximum Impact

One plant is pretty. A drift of seven or nine is breathtaking. When space allows, plant in odd-numbered groups spaced 18 inches apart. The mounds will knit together into a continuous river of blue. This works beautifully along a long border, beside a driveway, or on a sunny slope. The massed flowers create a haze of color that reads from a distance.

Edging and Pathways

Walker’s Low is a classic edging plant. Plant it 12 to 18 inches back from the edge of a path or patio. As it grows, the stems will spill over, softening hard lines and releasing fragrance when brushed. The silvery foliage defines the edge even when the plant is not in bloom.

Gravel and Rock Gardens

This is catmint’s native habitat. Plant it among stones, gravel, and other drought-lovers like sedums, thymes, and dwarf conifers. The gray-green foliage echoes the stone colors. The flowers add a soft vertical accent among low, mounding companions.

Underplanting Roses and Shrubs

Plant catmint in a ring around the base of roses, hydrangeas, or butterfly bushes. It covers bare legs, suppresses weeds, and blooms in sync with many roses. The informal mound contrasts nicely with the upright structure of shrubs. Just make sure the shrub does not cast too much shade as it leafs out.

Container Combinations

In a large pot, Walker’s Low plays the “filler” role. Pair it with a tall “thriller” like purple fountain grass or a small ornamental tree, and a trailing “spiller” like creeping thyme or calibrachoa. The catmint fills the middle with months of color. Remember that container plants need winter protection in cold zones. Move pots to an unheated garage or bury them in the ground for winter.

Propagation: Making More Plants

Division

As mentioned in the care section, division is the easiest and most reliable method. Do it in early spring. You get instant, mature plants that bloom the same year.

Stem Cuttings

In late spring or early summer, take 4-inch cuttings from non-flowering stems. Strip the lower leaves, dip the cut end in rooting hormone (optional but helpful), and stick them in a pot of moist sand or perlite. Cover with a plastic bag to maintain humidity. Place in bright, indirect light. Roots form in three to four weeks. Pot up and grow on until fall planting.

Seed

Walker’s Low does not come true from seed. Seedlings will vary in height, flower color, and habit. If you want the exact same plant, stick with division or cuttings. That said, letting some flowers go to seed can yield interesting volunteers. Just do not expect them to be identical to the parent.

Walker’s Low Through the Year: A Month-by-Month Guide

March to April: Spring Awakening

Cut back old stems to 2 inches as new growth emerges. Apply a thin layer of compost around the base. Divide crowded clumps now. Water if spring is dry.

May to June: First Bloom

Enjoy the first heavy flush of lavender-blue flowers. Deadhead spent spikes if you are tidy-minded, but it is not necessary. Watch for pollinators.

July: The Big Shear

After the first bloom fades, cut the whole plant back by half. Water well after shearing to push new growth.

August to September: Second Bloom

Fresh foliage and a new wave of flowers appear. Continue to enjoy the show. Water during dry spells.

October to November: Wind Down

Flowering tapers off. Stop watering. Let foliage stand for winter interest and crown protection.

December to February: Dormancy

Plant is dormant in cold zones. In mild zones, it may stay semi-evergreen. No care needed. Dream about next year’s garden.

Frequently Asked Questions About Walker’s Low Catmint

Is Walker’s Low catmint invasive?

No, it is not invasive. It spreads slowly by underground stems to form a clump, but it does not run aggressively like mint. It may self-seed lightly, but seedlings are easy to pull or transplant. The midsummer shear prevents most seeding.

Why is my catmint not flowering?

The most common reasons are too much shade (needs 6+ hours of sun), too much nitrogen fertilizer (produces leaves, not flowers), or the plant is old and needs division. Move to a sunnier spot, stop fertilizing, or divide in spring.

Can I grow Walker’s Low catmint in a pot?

Yes, it does well in containers. Use a pot at least 12 inches wide with drainage holes. Use a gritty, well-draining potting mix. Water when the top inch of soil is dry. Protect the pot in winter in zones 5 and colder.

Does Walker’s Low catmint attract bees?

Absolutely. It is a magnet for honeybees, bumblebees, native bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. The long bloom season provides nectar for months. It is one of the best pollinator plants you can grow.

Will deer eat Walker’s Low catmint?

Deer rarely browse catmint. The aromatic oils in the foliage make it unpalatable. In severe drought or overpopulation, deer may nibble anything, but catmint is highly deer-resistant.

How do I keep my catmint from flopping over?

Full sun, lean soil, minimal water once established, and the midsummer shear. These four things keep growth compact and upright. If it still flops, the site may be too shady or the soil too rich.

Conclusion: A Perennial That Gives Back

Walker’s Low catmint is one of those rare plants that seems to have it all. Long bloom season? Check. Drought tolerance? Check. Deer resistance? Check. Pollinator magnet? Check. Low maintenance? Double check. Whether you are a new gardener looking for a sure-fire winner or an experienced plant collector wanting a reliable backbone for your sunny borders, this catmint delivers.

The key to success is simple: give it sun, give it drainage, and give it a haircut in July. Do those three things, and you will be rewarded with months of lavender-blue flowers, clouds of pollinators, and a plant that asks for so little and gives so much. I have grown dozens of perennials over the years, but Walker’s Low remains a constant in my garden. It is the friend who shows up early, stays late, and never causes drama.

So find a sunny spot, prepare the soil well, and plant a few this season. In a year’s time, you will wonder how you ever gardened without it. And when the neighbors ask what that beautiful blue plant is, you can tell them: it’s Walker’s Low catmint, and it’s the easiest beauty you’ll ever grow.

Frequently Asked Questions

How tall and wide does Walker’s Low catmint grow?

Walker’s Low catmint typically grows 24 to 30 inches tall and spreads 18 to 24 inches wide. Despite the name “Low,” it forms a substantial mound that works well in the middle or front of borders.

Can Walker’s Low catmint grow in shade?

It can tolerate light shade (4-5 hours of sun), but flowering will be reduced and stems may become leggy and flop open. For best performance, plant in full sun with at least 6 hours of direct light.

Why is my catmint dying in the center?

A dead center usually means the clump is old and needs division. This typically happens every 3-4 years. Dig up the plant in early spring, discard the woody center, and replant the healthy outer sections.

Does Walker’s Low catmint spread aggressively?

No, it spreads slowly by short underground rhizomes to form a clump. It does not run like mint. It may self-seed lightly, but the midsummer shear prevents most seeding, and any volunteers are easy to remove.

What is the best fertilizer for catmint?

Catmint prefers lean soil and usually needs no fertilizer. Too much nitrogen causes floppy growth and fewer flowers. If soil is very poor, a light application of balanced slow-release fertilizer or an inch of compost in early spring is sufficient.

How do I prepare Walker’s Low catmint for winter?

In cold climates, leave the dried foliage standing through winter to protect the crown. In early spring, cut the old stems back to about 2 inches above ground just as new growth emerges at the base.