Purrsian Blue Catmint Perennial Plant

The Purrsian Blue catmint perennial plant is a compact, long-blooming variety that delivers months of lavender-blue flowers with minimal care. This drought-tolerant, deer-resistant perennial thrives in full sun and poor soil, making it perfect for busy gardeners who want reliable color from late spring through fall.

If you have ever walked past a garden in early summer and noticed a cloud of soft blue flowers buzzing with bees, chances are you were looking at catmint. But not all catmints are created equal. Some get floppy. Some spread too aggressively. Some bloom for just a few weeks and then call it quits. That is where the Purrsian Blue catmint perennial plant changes the game. This modern variety was bred to solve every frustration gardeners have faced with older catmint types. It stays compact. It blooms for months. It handles heat and drought like a champ. And it looks good doing it.

I first discovered this plant a few years ago when I was redesigning a sunny border that had terrible soil — basically clay mixed with construction debris. Nothing wanted to grow there. I planted three Purrsian Blue catmint plants as an experiment, figuring they would either survive or they wouldn’t. Three years later, they are still the stars of that bed. They ask for almost nothing and give back months of color. If you are looking for a perennial that delivers maximum impact for minimum effort, this might be the one you have been waiting for.

Key Takeaways

• Compact Growth Habit: Reaches only 14-18 inches tall and wide, making it ideal for small gardens, borders, and containers.
• Extended Bloom Season: Produces lavender-blue flowers from late spring through early fall with deadheading.
• Drought Tolerant: Once established, requires minimal watering and thrives in dry, sunny conditions.
• Pollinator Magnet: Attracts bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds while resisting deer and rabbits.
• Low Maintenance: Needs little fertilizer, rarely requires division, and stays tidy without flopping.
• Versatile Design Uses: Works in rock gardens, cottage borders, pathway edging, and mixed containers.
• Improved Over Older Varieties: Better branching, longer bloom time, and neater habit than traditional catmints.

Quick Answers to Common Questions

How tall does Purrsian Blue catmint grow?

Purrsian Blue catmint reaches 14-18 inches tall and 18-20 inches wide, making it significantly more compact than older varieties like Walker’s Low.

When should I cut back my catmint for rebloom?

Shear the plant back by half in late June or early July after the first flush of flowers fades. This triggers a heavy second bloom cycle that lasts into fall.

Is Purrsian Blue catmint deer resistant?

Yes, the aromatic foliage deters deer and rabbits. It is an excellent choice for gardens with browsing pressure.

Can Purrsian Blue catmint grow in containers?

Absolutely. Its compact habit makes it one of the best catmints for pots. Use a 12-14 inch container with gritty, well-draining soil and water when the top inch is dry.

What growing zones is Purrsian Blue catmint hardy in?

This variety is hardy in USDA zones 3-8, covering most of the continental United States except the deep South and far northern regions.

What Makes Purrsian Blue Catmint Special

A Modern Improvement on a Garden Classic

Catmint, or Nepeta, has been a garden staple for generations. The species Nepeta faassenii gave us beloved varieties like ‘Walker’s Low’ and ‘Six Hills Giant.’ These are great plants, but they have drawbacks. They can reach three feet tall and wide. They tend to flop open in the center after heavy rain. Their bloom season, while long, often slows down significantly in midsummer heat. The Purrsian Blue catmint perennial plant was developed by Walters Gardens as part of their “Cat’s Meow” series, specifically to address these issues.

This variety is a hybrid of Nepeta faassenii and Nepeta racemosa. The breeding goal was simple: create a catmint that stays naturally compact, branches well without pinching, reblooms reliably after deadheading, and maintains a tidy mound shape all season. The result is a plant that reaches just 14 to 18 inches tall and 18 to 20 inches wide. That is roughly half the size of ‘Walker’s Low.’ For gardeners with small spaces, this is a revelation. You can fit it in places where traditional catmint would swallow its neighbors.

Flower Power That Keeps Going

The flowers are the main event. Each stem produces dense whorls of tiny, tubular lavender-blue blossoms. They emerge in late spring, usually May in most zones, and continue heavily into early summer. Here is where the breeding really shines. If you shear the plant back by about half after the first flush fades — usually around late June or early July — it will rebound with a second major bloom cycle that carries right into September. In cooler climates, you might even get a third flush before frost.

The color is a true soft blue with lavender undertones, not the washed-out purple some catmints produce. It pairs beautifully with almost anything: yellow coreopsis, pink coneflowers, white shasta daisies, ornamental grasses, roses. The calyces — the little cup-like structures that hold each flower — are dark purple, which adds depth and makes the blue pop even after petals drop. This means the plant looks good even between bloom cycles.

Foliage That Stays Clean

The leaves deserve attention too. They are small, gray-green, and aromatic, with a soft texture that invites touch. When brushed, they release that classic minty-catnip scent that gives the genus its common name. Unlike some perennials that look ratty by August, Purrsian Blue foliage stays fresh and dense all season. It forms a neat mound that suppresses weeds naturally. The stems are sturdy enough to hold the flower spikes upright without staking, even after summer storms.

Growing Conditions for Success

Sun Requirements

Full sun is non-negotiable for the best performance. This means at least six hours of direct sunlight daily. Eight to ten hours is even better. In partial shade, the plant will survive but become leggy, produce fewer flowers, and lose its compact shape. The stems stretch toward the light, and the mound opens up in the center. If your garden has dappled shade or only morning sun, you will be disappointed. Plant it where the sun hits hard and long.

Soil Preferences

Here is the good news: this plant is not picky. Average, well-drained soil is perfect. It tolerates poor soil, sandy soil, rocky soil, and even clay — provided the clay drains reasonably well. What it cannot handle is wet feet. Standing water, especially in winter, will rot the crown. If you have heavy clay, amend with compost and coarse sand or plant in a raised bed. The ideal pH range is 6.0 to 7.5, but it adapts outside that range without complaint. Rich, fertile soil actually produces weaker growth and fewer flowers. Lean conditions make for a stronger, more floriferous plant.

Water Needs

Water regularly during the first growing season to establish a deep root system. After that, the Purrsian Blue catmint perennial plant is remarkably drought tolerant. Its taproot system seeks moisture deep in the soil. In most regions, established plants need supplemental water only during extended dry spells. Overwatering is a bigger risk than underwatering. Wet soil promotes root rot and fungal diseases. If you have an irrigation system, zone this plant with other xeric perennials, not with thirsty annuals or hydrangeas.

Hardiness Range

This variety is hardy in USDA zones 3 through 8. That covers most of the continental United States except the deep South and the far northern tier. In zone 3, provide winter mulch after the ground freezes. In zone 8, afternoon shade can help during brutal summers. The plant is herbaceous, meaning it dies back to the ground each winter and re-emerges from the crown in spring. It does not spread by rhizomes or runners, so it stays where you put it.

Planting and Establishment

When to Plant

Spring and fall are both excellent planting times. Spring planting gives the roots a full season to establish before winter. Fall planting takes advantage of cooler temperatures and autumn rains, but should be done at least six weeks before the ground freezes. Summer planting works too if you are diligent about watering. Avoid planting during heat waves. Container-grown plants from nurseries can go in the ground any time the soil is workable.

Spacing and Layout

Space plants 18 to 24 inches apart, measured from center to center. This allows each plant to reach its full width without crowding. For a solid border edge, plant on 18-inch centers. For a more natural drift with visible individual mounds, go with 24 inches. When planting in groups, use odd numbers — three, five, seven — for a more natural look. Stagger the rows rather than planting in a straight line. This creates better visual flow and air circulation.

Planting Technique

Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball and just as deep. Loosen the soil at the bottom and sides. Remove the plant from its pot and gently tease apart any circling roots. Place the plant so the crown sits at soil level — not buried, not exposed. Backfill with the native soil, firming gently to eliminate air pockets. Water thoroughly to settle the soil. Apply a two-inch layer of shredded bark or compost mulch, keeping it a few inches away from the crown. Do not fertilize at planting time. The plant needs to focus on root growth, not top growth.

First Season Care

The first year is all about roots. Water deeply once or twice a week during dry spells, more often in extreme heat. Do not shear or deadhead the first flush of flowers unless they look truly terrible. Let the plant put energy into establishment. You can remove spent flowers later in summer if you want, but it is not necessary. In late fall, after several hard frosts, you can cut the stems back to a few inches above ground, or leave them for winter interest and cut in early spring. Both approaches work.

Ongoing Maintenance

The Chelsea Chop and Deadheading

This is the secret to months of bloom. Around late June, when the first heavy flush is fading, shear the entire plant back by one-third to one-half. Use hedge shears or sharp pruners. Cut into a rounded mound shape. This looks drastic, but within two weeks you will see fresh growth emerging from the base. By mid-July, flower buds will form on the new stems. The second bloom is often even heavier than the first. If you skip this step, the plant will still rebloom sporadically, but the show will be much less impressive.

You can also deadhead individual spent spikes throughout the season if you prefer a lighter touch. This works well for container plants or small groupings. For mass plantings, the shear method is faster and produces a more uniform display. Some gardeners do a lighter “Chelsea chop” in late May, cutting back by one-third before the first bloom. This delays flowering by a few weeks but produces an even bushier plant with more stems and ultimately more flowers. Experiment to see what works in your climate.

Fertilizing — Less Is More

Catmint thrives on neglect. In average soil, no fertilizer is needed. In very poor soil, a light application of balanced slow-release fertilizer in early spring is plenty. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers. They produce lush foliage at the expense of flowers and make stems weak and floppy. If your plant looks pale or stunted, a top-dressing of compost in spring is better than synthetic fertilizer. Compost improves soil structure and feeds slowly. The Purrsian Blue catmint perennial plant is adapted to lean conditions. Treat it like a Mediterranean herb, not a heavy-feeding perennial.

Division and Longevity

Unlike many perennials that need division every three to five years to stay vigorous, Purrsian Blue can go seven to ten years or more without division. The crown stays dense and productive. If you do want to divide — perhaps to share with a friend or fill another spot — early spring is best. Dig the entire clump, shake off soil, and pull or cut the crown into sections, each with several stems and healthy roots. Replant immediately at the same depth. Water well. Divisions may bloom lightly the first year but reach full stride in year two.

Winter Care

In zones 5 and warmer, no special winter care is needed. The dead stems catch snow and provide insulation. In zones 3 and 4, apply a loose mulch of straw, pine needles, or shredded leaves after the ground freezes. This prevents freeze-thaw cycles from heaving the crown. Remove the mulch gradually in early spring as new growth appears. Do not cut back in fall in cold zones — the standing stems protect the crown. In all zones, clean up dead foliage in early spring before new growth emerges.

Design Ideas and Companion Plants

Border and Edging Superstar

The compact, mounding habit makes this plant a natural for the front of the border. Plant it in a sweeping drift along a pathway or driveway edge. The soft blue flowers and gray-green foliage create a cooling visual transition between hardscape and planting beds. Because it stays under 18 inches, it never blocks sightlines or flops onto pavement. Pair it with low-growing companions like sedum ‘Angelina,’ dwarf fountain grass, or creeping thyme for a tapestry effect at ground level.

Rose Companion

This is a classic pairing for good reason. The blue catmint flowers hide the bare canes of roses. The aromatic foliage may help deter aphids and Japanese beetles. The bloom seasons overlap beautifully — catmint peaks just as many roses take their midsummer break. Plant catmint in a ring around each rose bush, or in a ribbon along the front of a rose border. Choose rose colors that harmonize: apricot, cream, soft pink, deep red. Avoid orange roses — the color clash can be jarring.

Rock Garden and Gravel Garden Star

The Purrsian Blue catmint perennial plant excels in lean, well-drained conditions typical of rock gardens. Its taproot anchors it between stones. The soft mound contrasts beautifully with spiky succulents, upright grasses, and architectural plants like yucca or agave. In a gravel garden, let it self-sow gently (it rarely does, but seedlings are easy to remove) for a naturalistic look. Combine with lavender, salvia, penstemon, and ornamental oregano for a Mediterranean palette that thrives on neglect.

Container Culture

This variety is one of the best catmints for pots. Its compact size means it won’t outgrow a 12- to 14-inch container in a single season. Use a gritty, well-draining potting mix — add perlite or coarse sand to standard mix. Ensure the pot has drainage holes. Water when the top inch of soil is dry. Fertilize monthly with half-strength balanced liquid fertilizer during active growth. In winter, move containers to an unheated garage or bury the pot in the ground in zones 5 and colder. In warmer zones, they can stay outdoors year-round.

Pollinator and Wildlife Garden

If you garden for wildlife, this plant is essential. The nectar-rich flowers attract native bees, honeybees, bumblebees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. The long bloom season provides a reliable food source when other flowers are scarce. Deer and rabbits avoid the aromatic foliage. It is a rare plant that feeds pollinators while resisting browsers. Plant it in groups of five or more for maximum pollinator traffic. Avoid pesticides — the whole point is to support insect life.

Color Combinations That Work

Blue is a bridging color in the garden. It harmonizes with almost everything. For a cool, serene palette: pair with white flowers (shasta daisy, white phlox, white coneflower), silver foliage (artemisia, lamb’s ears, dusty miller), and pastel pinks. For high contrast: combine with golden yellow (coreopsis, black-eyed susan, goldenrod), orange (butterfly weed, geum, daylily), or chartreuse (sedum ‘Angelina,’ golden creeping jenny). For a monochromatic blue-purple scheme: add salvia ‘May Night,’ Russian sage, lavender, and purple coneflower.

Common Problems and Solutions

Flopping and Open Centers

If your plant flops open in the center, the cause is usually too much shade, too much water, too much fertilizer, or lack of the midseason shear. Fix the cultural issues first. Move to full sun if possible. Cut back watering. Stop fertilizing. Do the hard shear in late June. If the plant is old and woody in the center, division in early spring will rejuvenate it. The Purrsian Blue catmint perennial plant is bred to resist flopping better than older varieties, but no plant is immune to poor conditions.

Powdery Mildew

This fungal disease appears as white powdery coating on leaves, usually in late summer during humid weather. It is unsightly but rarely fatal. Prevention is key: full sun, good air circulation (proper spacing), and avoid overhead watering. If it appears, remove badly affected leaves. A spray of neem oil or potassium bicarbonate can slow the spread. The plant will outgrow it next spring. Some gardeners simply ignore it — the flowers keep coming regardless.

Root Rot

Yellowing leaves, wilting despite moist soil, and a foul smell from the root zone indicate root rot. This is almost always caused by poor drainage or overwatering. If caught early, you can dig the plant, trim rotted roots, and replant in a better-drained location or raised bed. But prevention is far easier. Plant in well-drained soil. Water deeply but infrequently. Mulch to conserve moisture, not create a swamp.

Cat Damage

Yes, cats love catmint. Some will roll on it, chew it, or nap in it. This rarely kills the plant but can make it look messy. If neighborhood cats are a problem, surround the plant with chicken wire until established, or use a commercial cat repellent. Some gardeners plant a sacrificial patch of regular catnip (Nepeta cataria) elsewhere to distract them. The Purrsian Blue catmint perennial plant is less attractive to cats than true catnip, but not immune.

Lack of Flowers

If your plant produces lots of leaves but few flowers, check these factors: insufficient sun (needs 6+ hours), excess nitrogen fertilizer, overcrowding, or failure to deadhead/shear. Also, very young plants may bloom lightly their first year. By year two, they should flower heavily. If an established plant suddenly stops blooming, it may need division or the soil may have become too rich from years of mulch breaking down. A light shear in early summer can sometimes trigger a bloom cycle.

Propagation Methods

Division

As mentioned, division is the easiest and most reliable method. Do it in early spring as new growth emerges. Dig the whole clump. Use a sharp spade or knife to cut the crown into sections. Each division needs 3-5 stems and a good root system. Replant immediately. Water well. Keep shaded for a few days if the weather is hot. Divisions bloom the same year, though perhaps less heavily.

Stem Cuttings

Take softwood cuttings in late spring or early summer. Choose non-flowering stems 4-6 inches long. Cut just below a node. Remove lower leaves. Dip the cut end in rooting hormone. Insert into moist perlite-vermiculite mix or sandy potting soil. Cover with a plastic bag or dome to maintain humidity. Place in bright indirect light. Roots form in 3-4 weeks. Transplant to individual pots. Grow on until fall, then plant out or overwinter in a cold frame.

Seed

Purrsian Blue is a patented cultivar (PP24,788), so propagation by seed is not permitted for commercial sale. However, home gardeners can collect seed for personal use. Be aware that seedlings will not come true to type — they will be variable hybrids. If you want the exact plant, use division or cuttings. If you enjoy experimentation, sow seeds in fall or early spring. They need light to germinate, so press into soil surface without covering. Germination takes 10-20 days at 65-70°F.

Buying Guide: What to Look For

At the Nursery

Choose plants with healthy gray-green foliage, no yellowing or brown spots. Check the crown — it should be firm, not mushy. Avoid plants with roots circling the pot bottom (rootbound). Some root growth through drainage holes is fine. Look for compact, bushy growth, not tall and leggy. If flowers are present, they should be fresh, not faded. Ask when the plant was last fertilized — recently fertilized plants may struggle to transition to lean garden soil.

Online Ordering

Many reputable online nurseries ship Purrsian Blue as plug plants or in quart/gallon pots. Order early in the season for best selection. Spring shipments arrive as dormant crowns or just-breaking dormancy. Fall shipments are actively growing. Unpack immediately. Water if dry. Plant within a day or two. If you must hold them, keep in bright shade and water daily. Report any damage or poor condition to the seller immediately with photos.

Price Expectations

Expect to pay $8-15 for a quart pot, $12-22 for a gallon. Plug trays (32-72 cells) wholesale for $1.50-3 per plant but require growing on. Sales and end-of-season clearances can yield deals. Remember that a smaller, less expensive plant often establishes faster and outperforms a larger, rootbound one within a season. The Purrsian Blue catmint perennial plant grows quickly. A quart pot in spring will be a showpiece by midsummer.

Seasonal Care Calendar

Early Spring (March-April)

Cut back dead stems to 2-3 inches. Remove winter mulch. Apply compost top-dressing if desired. Divide if needed. Watch for new growth at the crown.

Late Spring (May-June)

First major bloom begins. Enjoy! Water during dry spells. No fertilizer needed. Stake only if unusually floppy (rare).

Early Summer (Late June-July)

First flush fades. Shear back by half. Water well after shearing. New growth emerges within days.

Midsummer (July-August)

Second bloom cycle develops. Monitor for powdery mildew in humid weather. Water deeply during drought. Deadhead spent spikes if desired.

Late Summer (August-September)

Second bloom peaks. Continue watering as needed. Stop fertilizing. Enjoy pollinator activity.

Fall (October-November)

Bloom winds down. Leave stems standing for winter interest and crown protection. Apply winter mulch in zones 3-4 after ground freezes.

Winter (December-February)

Dormant. No care needed. Plan next year’s companions. Order new plants if desired.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Purrsian Blue catmint invasive?

No. Unlike some mint family members, this catmint does not spread by runners or rhizomes. It forms a clump that slowly expands at the crown. It may self-seed lightly in ideal conditions, but seedlings are easy to recognize and remove. It is well-behaved in the garden.

Can I grow it indoors?

Not recommended. Catmint needs full sun, seasonal dormancy, and good air circulation. Indoors, it becomes leggy, attracts spider mites, and rarely flowers well. Grow it outside where it belongs.

Why is my catmint not blooming?

Most common causes: too much shade, too much nitrogen fertilizer, failure to shear after first bloom, or the plant is too young (first-year plants bloom lightly). Correct the conditions and it will bloom.

Does it really attract cats?

Yes, but less intensely than true catnip (Nepeta cataria). Some cats ignore it. Others roll on it occasionally. It rarely suffers serious damage. If cats are a persistent problem, use physical barriers or repellents.

Can I grow it in a hanging basket?

It can work in a large hanging basket (14+ inches) with gritty, well-draining mix. The mound will cascade slightly over the edges. Water frequently — baskets dry fast. Fertilize monthly at half strength. Overwinter in a protected location in cold zones.

How long does it live?

With good conditions, 10-15 years or more. The crown slowly expands and may eventually develop a dead center. Division every 7-10 years rejuvenates it indefinitely.

Conclusion

The Purrsian Blue catmint perennial plant is one of those rare perennials that truly delivers on the promise of low maintenance and high reward. It asks for so little — sun, decent drainage, an annual haircut — and gives back months of pollinator-friendly color, aromatic foliage, and a tidy presence that never wears out its welcome. Whether you are a new gardener looking for a confidence-building success or an experienced plantsman needing a reliable workhorse for tough spots, this plant earns its keep.

I have watched mine sail through drought, heat waves, neglect, and clay soil without missing a beat. The bees thank me. The neighbors ask what it is. The cats ignore it (mostly). And I get to enjoy a garden that looks professionally designed with a fraction of the effort. If you have a sunny spot and a desire for months of easy blue flowers, make room for Purrsian Blue. You will not regret it.

Plant it this spring. Shear it in June. Stand back in July. And tell me you are not already planning where to put the next three.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does Purrsian Blue catmint spread aggressively?

No, Purrsian Blue catmint forms a well-behaved clump that expands slowly at the crown. It does not spread by runners or rhizomes like some mint family members. Light self-seeding may occur but seedlings are easily removed.

How much sun does Purrsian Blue catmint need?

This plant requires full sun — at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily, with 8-10 hours being ideal. In partial shade, it becomes leggy, produces fewer flowers, and loses its compact mounded shape.

Should I fertilize my Purrsian Blue catmint?

Generally no. Catmint thrives in lean soil and excess fertilizer (especially nitrogen) produces weak, floppy growth with fewer flowers. A light compost top-dressing in spring is sufficient if your soil is very poor.

Why is my catmint flopping open in the center?

Flopping is usually caused by too much shade, overwatering, excess fertilizer, or skipping the midseason shear. Ensure full sun, well-drained soil, minimal fertilizer, and cut back by half after the first bloom flush.

Can I divide Purrsian Blue catmint?

Yes, divide in early spring every 7-10 years or when the center becomes woody. Dig the clump, cut into sections with 3-5 stems and roots each, and replant immediately at the same depth.

Is Purrsian Blue catmint the same as catnip?

No. Catnip is Nepeta cataria, which is intensely attractive to cats but less ornamental. Purrsian Blue is a hybrid ornamental catmint (Nepeta x faassenii) bred for compact growth, long bloom, and garden performance. Cats may show mild interest but rarely damage it.