Planting Catmints

Planting catmints is rewarding for gardeners of all levels. These drought-tolerant perennials bloom for months with minimal care. Follow our guide for healthy, fragrant plants that attract pollinators.

Key Takeaways

• Choose the right variety: Select catmint types suited to your climate zone and garden space for best results.
• Full sun is essential: Plant in locations receiving at least six hours of direct sunlight daily.
• Well-draining soil prevents rot: Amend heavy clay with compost or grit to improve drainage before planting.
• Space plants properly: Allow 18 to 24 inches between plants for air circulation and mature growth.
• Water deeply but infrequently: Established catmints prefer dry conditions and develop deep roots with occasional soaking.
• Shear after first bloom: Cut back by one-third after flowering to encourage a second flush of blooms.
• Divide every few years: Separate crowded clumps in early spring to maintain vigor and prevent center die-out.

Quick Answers to Common Questions

When is the best time for planting catmints?

Spring after the last frost or early fall at least six weeks before the first hard frost are ideal times for planting catmints.

How much sun do catmints need?

Catmints need full sun, at least six hours of direct sunlight daily, for best flowering and compact growth.

How far apart should I space catmint plants?

Space most varieties 18 to 24 inches apart; larger types like ‘Six Hills Giant’ need 30 to 36 inches.

Do catmints come back every year?

Yes, catmints are hardy perennials that return reliably each spring in zones 3 through 8.

Should I deadhead catmints?

Shearing plants back by one-third after the first bloom encourages a second heavy flush of flowers in late summer.

Why Gardeners Love Planting Catmints

If you want a plant that gives you months of color with very little fuss, catmint should be at the top of your list. These hardy perennials belong to the Nepeta genus. They are cousins to catnip but much showier in the garden. Planting catmints means signing up for lavender-blue flower spikes that appear in late spring. They keep going strong until frost with just a little midseason grooming.

Bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds cannot resist the nectar-rich blooms. Deer and rabbits usually leave the aromatic foliage alone. That alone makes planting catmints a smart choice for rural and suburban gardens alike. The gray-green leaves release a pleasant minty scent when brushed. This makes them perfect for planting along pathways or near seating areas where you can enjoy the fragrance.

Choosing the Best Catmint Variety for Your Garden

Not all catmints are created equal. Some grow into neat mounds barely a foot tall. Others spread into broad, billowing clouds three feet across. Knowing the differences helps you pick the right plant for the right spot. This step is crucial before you start planting catmints in your beds.

Popular Compact Varieties

Nepeta x faassenii ‘Walker’s Low’ is the classic choice. It was named Perennial Plant of the Year in 2007. Despite the name, it grows 24 to 30 inches tall and wide. It forms a tidy mound covered in deep lavender-blue flowers. This variety is sterile so it will not self-seed aggressively. It is a reliable performer for planting catmints in borders and cottage gardens.

‘Junior Walker’ is a dwarf sport of the above. It tops out at 15 to 18 inches. This makes it ideal for the front of the border or container planting. The flower color is the same lovely blue. If you have limited space, this is the one to choose when planting catmints.

‘Kit Cat’ is even smaller at just 12 inches. It works well in rock gardens or as an edging plant. The foliage is particularly dense and neat. Consider this for planting catmints along a garden path.

Larger Varieties for Big Impact

Nepeta racemosa ‘Little Titch’ forms a low, spreading mat only 8 to 10 inches tall but up to 24 inches wide. It is perfect for spilling over walls or softening the edge of a raised bed. The flowers are a soft violet-blue. This variety excels at planting catmints as groundcover.

Nepeta subsessilis varieties like ‘Sweet Dreams’ offer pink flowers instead of blue. They grow 24 to 36 inches tall. They prefer a bit more moisture than other catmints. This opens up planting catmints in slightly damp spots where other varieties might struggle.

‘Six Hills Giant’ is an old favorite. It reaches 36 inches tall and wide. The flowers are a pale lavender. It has a looser, more relaxed habit. Use it for planting catmints in the middle or back of a large border.

Matching Variety to Purpose

Think about your goal before buying. Do you need a low edger? A tall backdrop? A pollinator magnet for the vegetable garden? A container thriller? There is a catmint for each role. Read plant tags carefully. Check the mature height and spread. This prevents the common mistake of planting catmints too close together or in the wrong spot.

When to Plant Catmints for Success

Timing matters. Planting catmints at the right time reduces transplant shock. It gives roots a chance to establish before extreme weather hits. The best windows are spring and early fall.

Spring Planting Advantages

Spring is the most popular time for planting catmints. The soil is warming up. Rain is usually plentiful. Nurseries have the best selection. Plant after your last frost date. In most zones, this means April through May. The plants have the whole growing season to settle in. They will often bloom the same year.

If you buy plants in early spring, harden them off first. Set them outside in a sheltered spot for a few hours each day. Increase the time over a week. This toughens them up before planting catmints into the garden bed.

Fall Planting Benefits

Early fall is arguably even better for planting catmints. The soil is still warm from summer. This encourages rapid root growth. Cooler air temperatures reduce stress on the foliage. Fall rains often handle watering for you. Aim to plant at least six weeks before your first hard frost. This gives roots time to anchor before winter.

Fall-planted catmints often outperform spring-planted ones the following year. They hit the ground running when spring arrives. You may find end-of-season sales at nurseries too. Just avoid planting catmints too late in fall. Roots need time to establish before the ground freezes.

Summer Planting With Care

You can plant in summer if you must. Choose a cloudy day or plant in the evening. Water thoroughly before and after planting catmints. Provide temporary shade with a shade cloth or upside-down pot for a few days. Water daily for the first week. Then taper off. Summer planting requires more attention but works fine with diligence.

Preparing the Perfect Planting Site

Catmints are not fussy, but they have one non-negotiable requirement: excellent drainage. Wet feet kill them faster than anything else. Spending time on site preparation pays off for years. This is the foundation of successful planting catmints.

Sunlight Requirements

Full sun means at least six hours of direct sun daily. Eight hours is even better. In hot southern climates, a little afternoon shade is tolerated. But too much shade leads to floppy stems and fewer flowers. The plants stretch toward the light. They become leggy and weak. Choose the sunniest spot you have for planting catmints.

Soil Preparation Steps

Start by testing your soil drainage. Dig a hole 12 inches deep and wide. Fill it with water. Let it drain. Fill it again. If the water is gone in a few hours, drainage is good. If it sits for half a day or more, you have a drainage problem. You must fix this before planting catmints.

For heavy clay soil, amend generously. Mix in coarse sand, fine gravel, or perlite. Add compost too. Aim for a 50-50 mix of native soil and amendments in the planting zone. Do not just amend the planting hole. This creates a “bathtub effect” where water collects. Amend a wide area instead.

Sandy soil drains too fast. It cannot hold moisture or nutrients. Add plenty of compost or well-rotted manure. This improves water retention. It also feeds the soil microbes that help plants thrive. Work amendments in at least 12 inches deep. This helps when planting catmints in poor soil.

Ideal soil pH is neutral to slightly alkaline, 6.5 to 7.5. Catmints tolerate slightly acidic soil down to 6.0. If your soil is very acidic, add garden lime when preparing the bed. A soil test tells you exactly what you need. This precision helps when planting catmints for long-term health.

Bed Preparation Tips

Clear the area of weeds and grass. Remove roots of perennial weeds. They will come back through your catmint if you do not. Loosen the soil with a garden fork or tiller. Break up large clods. Rake smooth. Water the prepared bed a day before planting catmints. Moist soil settles around roots better than bone-dry soil.

Step-by-Step Guide to Planting Catmints

Now comes the fun part. Follow these steps for planting catmints correctly. Good technique ensures quick establishment and years of beauty.

Spacing Your Plants

Check the plant tag for mature width. Space plants at that distance. For most varieties, 18 to 24 inches apart works well. ‘Six Hills Giant’ needs 30 to 36 inches. ‘Kit Cat’ can go 12 inches. Proper spacing allows air flow. This prevents fungal diseases. It also lets each plant show its natural form. Crowding leads to weak, spindly growth when planting catmints too close.

Planting Depth Matters

Remove the plant from its pot. Gently loosen circling roots. If the root ball is a solid mass, make three vertical cuts with a knife. This encourages roots to grow outward. Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball. The depth should equal the height of the root ball. The crown (where stems meet roots) should sit at soil level. Not deeper. Not shallower. Planting catmints too deep causes crown rot. Planting too high exposes roots to air.

Backfilling and Watering In

Fill the hole with the amended soil. Firm gently with your hands. Do not stomp with your foot. This compacts soil and reduces oxygen. Create a shallow basin around the plant. This directs water to the roots. Water thoroughly until the soil is saturated. This settles soil and eliminates air pockets. Add more soil if it settles below the crown. This final step in planting catmints is critical for root contact.

Mulching for Success

Apply a 2-inch layer of mulch. Keep it away from the crown. Leave a 2-inch gap around the stems. Mulch conserves moisture. It suppresses weeds. It moderates soil temperature. Good choices are shredded bark, pine straw, or compost. Avoid rock mulch right against the plant. It reflects heat and can bake the crown. Proper mulching completes the planting catmints process.

Watering and Feeding Newly Planted Catmints

The first growing season is all about root establishment. Your watering and feeding routine should support this goal. Once established, catmints are incredibly drought tolerant. But they need help getting there.

First Season Watering Schedule

Water deeply after planting catmints. Then water every two to three days for the first two weeks. Adjust for rain. Check soil moisture by sticking your finger in 2 inches. If dry, water. If moist, wait. After two weeks, stretch to twice a week. After a month, once a week. By late summer, water only during dry spells. The goal is to encourage roots to chase moisture deep down. Frequent shallow watering creates shallow roots. Deep, infrequent watering creates resilient plants.

Signs of Overwatering and Underwatering

Overwatered catmints turn yellow. Lower leaves drop. Stems may rot at the base. The soil smells sour. Underwatered plants wilt in the heat of the day. Leaves curl. Flower buds may abort. The soil pulls away from the pot or bed edges. Learn to read these signs. They guide your watering after planting catmints.

Fertilizing: Less Is More

Catmints thrive in lean soil. Rich soil produces lush foliage but few flowers. It also makes stems weak and floppy. If you amended with compost at planting, skip fertilizer the first year. In subsequent years, a light application of balanced organic fertilizer in early spring is plenty. Or top-dress with an inch of compost. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers. They defeat the purpose of planting catmints for flowers.

Ongoing Care for Thriving Catmints

Once established, catmints are among the lowest-maintenance perennials. But a few timely tasks keep them looking their best. These practices extend the bloom season and plant lifespan.

The Chelsea Chop Technique

In late May or early June (around the Chelsea Flower Show in England), shear plants back by one-third to one-half. This delays flowering by a few weeks. But it produces bushier, more compact plants. It prevents the center from opening up. It increases total flower count. This is especially useful for taller varieties when planting catmints in formal beds.

Deadheading for Repeat Blooms

After the first big flush fades, shear the whole plant back by one-third. Use hedge shears or a string trimmer for large plantings. This removes spent flowers and tired foliage. New growth emerges quickly. A second heavy bloom follows in a few weeks. You can repeat this in late summer for a fall show. Regular shearing is the secret to months of color when planting catmints.

Dividing to Renew Vigor

Every three to four years, the center of the clump may die out. The plant becomes a ring with a bare middle. This signals it is time to divide. Do this in early spring as new growth appears. Dig up the whole clump. Use a sharp spade or knife to cut into sections. Each division needs roots and shoots. Replant the healthiest pieces. Discard the woody center. Water well. Dividing rejuvenates the plant. It also gives you free plants for expanding your planting catmints project.

Winter Care

In cold zones (3-5), leave the dead foliage standing over winter. It protects the crown. Cut back to 3 inches in early spring before new growth starts. In warmer zones, you can cut back in late fall if you prefer a tidy look. Or leave it for winter interest and wildlife shelter. A light mulch of straw or leaves helps in zone 3 and 4. Remove it early spring. Winter protection ensures survival after planting catmints in harsh climates.

Design Ideas for Planting Catmints in the Landscape

Catmints are versatile design elements. Their soft color and texture blend with almost anything. Here are inspiring ways to use them.

Classic Companions

Roses and catmints are a legendary pairing. The blue flowers hide bare rose canes. The minty scent may deter rose pests. Plant catmints 18 inches from the rose base. ‘Walker’s Low’ is the traditional choice. This combination has graced English gardens for generations.

Peonies and catmints work beautifully. Peonies bloom early. Catmints cover the fading foliage later. The blue flowers contrast with peony greens. Both like full sun and good drainage. This succession planting extends the season of interest.

Ornamental grasses like ‘Karl Foerster’ feather reed grass or blue fescue add vertical structure. Catmints provide the soft mound. The combination moves gracefully in wind. It looks natural and modern at once.

Pollinator and Herb Gardens

Plant catmints in the vegetable garden. They attract beneficial insects that prey on pests. Bees pollinate your squash and tomatoes. Hoverflies eat aphids. Plant catmints at bed corners or in dedicated pollinator strips. They belong in every herb garden too. Their Mediterranean heritage makes them perfect companions for lavender, rosemary, thyme, and sage. All share the same cultural needs.

Edging and Pathway Plantings

Low varieties like ‘Kit Cat’ or ‘Little Titch’ make fragrant edging. Brush against them as you walk by. They soften hard edges of pavers or stone. They tolerate occasional foot traffic. Planting catmints along paths engages the senses.

Container Combinations

Catmints thrive in pots. Use a gritty, well-draining potting mix. Add perlite or coarse sand. Ensure the pot has drainage holes. Combine with trailing plants like calibrachoa or verbena. Add a thriller like purple fountain grass. The catmint fills the middle. Water when the top inch of soil is dry. Fertilize monthly with dilute liquid fertilizer. Overwinter pots in an unheated garage in cold zones. Container planting catmints brings them up close on patios and decks.

Slopes and Erosion Control

The spreading habit and deep roots of varieties like ‘Little Titch’ stabilize slopes. Plant them in drifts. Space closer than normal, 12 to 15 inches. They knit together into a living mulch. This suppresses weeds and holds soil. Planting catmints on banks solves a problem beautifully.

Troubleshooting Common Catmint Problems

Even easy plants have issues sometimes. Knowing what to watch for keeps your planting catmints healthy.

Floppy, Leggy Growth

Cause: Too much shade, too much fertilizer, or too much water. Fix: Move to full sun. Stop fertilizing. Water less. Shear back hard in early summer. The new growth will be sturdier. The Chelsea Chop prevents this when done proactively.

Center Die-Out

Cause: Age and congestion. The woody center stops producing new shoots. Fix: Divide in spring. Discard the dead center. Replant vigorous outer sections. This is normal maintenance, not a failure. Plan to divide every few years when planting catmints long-term.

Powdery Mildew

Cause: Humid weather, poor air circulation, overhead watering. Fix: Space plants properly. Water at the base. Remove affected leaves. Apply neem oil or potassium bicarbonate spray if severe. Resistant varieties help. ‘Walker’s Low’ shows good resistance.

Root Rot

Cause: Poor drainage, overwatering, heavy clay. Fix: Improve drainage before replanting. Amend soil deeply. Plant on a slight mound. Water only when dry. Once rot sets in, the plant is usually lost. Prevention during planting catmints is the only cure.

Cat Damage

Cause: Neighborhood cats rolling in the plants. They love the nepetalactone compound. Fix: Place wire cages over young plants. Use prickly mulch like pine cones. Plant catnip (Nepeta cataria) elsewhere as a decoy. Mature plants usually recover from occasional feline attention.

Propagating More Catmints for Free

Once you have one healthy plant, you can make many. This saves money and lets you expand your planting catmints throughout the garden.

Division

As described earlier, division is the easiest method. Do it in spring. Each division becomes a full-sized plant in one season. This is the most reliable propagation method.

Stem Cuttings

Take 4-inch cuttings in late spring or early summer. Choose non-flowering stems. Strip lower leaves. Dip in rooting hormone. Stick in moist perlite or sand. Cover with a plastic bag. Place in bright indirect light. Roots form in 3 to 4 weeks. Pot up and grow on. This works well for sterile varieties that do not set seed.

Seed Starting

Species catmints come true from seed. Hybrids like ‘Walker’s Low’ do not. Collect seeds from dried flower heads in fall. Store cool and dry. Sow indoors 6 to 8 weeks before last frost. Barely cover seeds. They need light to germinate. Keep moist at 65 to 70 degrees. Transplant seedlings after frost. Seed-grown plants bloom in their second year. Growing from seed adds genetic diversity to your planting catmints collection.

Catmints Through the Seasons

Understanding the annual cycle helps you anticipate needs and enjoy the show.

Spring Awakening

New shoots emerge from the crown in early spring. They are soft and gray-green. This is the time to divide if needed. Apply compost around the base. Remove winter mulch. Watch for slugs on tender new growth. The plant grows rapidly in cool weather.

Early Summer Glory

First flower spikes appear in late May to June. The plant is a mound of color. Bees are constant visitors. This is the peak show. Enjoy it. Take photos. Cut a few stems for bouquets. They last a week in water.

Midseason Refresh

After the first flush fades, the plant looks tired. Stems elongate. Flowers turn brown. This is shear time. Cut back by one-third. Water well. Apply a light feed. In two weeks, fresh growth appears. In four weeks, buds form again.

Late Summer Encore

Second bloom arrives in August. It may be slightly less heavy but still impressive. Continue deadheading spent spikes. This encourages more flowers. The plant stays attractive until frost.

Fall and Winter Rest

After hard frost, foliage turns brown. In cold zones, leave it. In warm zones, cut back if desired. The plant goes dormant. Roots are alive underground. They are storing energy for next year. Mulch in cold zones. Dream of next spring’s planting catmints display.

Frequently Asked Questions About Planting Catmints

Do catmints spread aggressively?

Most modern hybrids like ‘Walker’s Low’ are clump-forming and sterile. They do not run or self-seed aggressively. Species types like Nepeta racemosa can self-sow moderately. Deadheading prevents unwanted seedlings. Planting catmints hybrids eliminates spreading concerns.

Are catmints the same as catnip?

No. Catnip is Nepeta cataria. It is a weedy plant with white flowers grown for cats. Catmints are ornamental hybrids like Nepeta x faassenii. They have showy blue flowers and better garden habits. Cats may still enjoy them but less intensely. Planting catmints gives you beauty; planting catnip gives you crazy cats.

Can I grow catmints in shade?

They tolerate light shade but flower poorly. Stems become weak and floppy. Foliage may be greener but less dense. For best results, give them full sun. If shade is your only option, try Nepeta subsessilis varieties. They handle more shade than others. But honestly, planting catmints in shade is disappointing.

Why is my catmint not blooming?

Common reasons: too much shade, too much nitrogen fertilizer, the plant needs dividing, or it was pruned too late in spring. Ensure full sun. Stop fertilizing. Divide old clumps. Prune only in early spring or after first bloom. Correcting these usually restores flowering when planting catmints.

Are catmints deer resistant?

Yes, highly. The aromatic oils in the foliage repel deer and rabbits. No plant is 100% proof in a famine. But catmints are rarely browsed. This makes planting catmints a top choice for unfenced rural gardens.

Can I plant catmints in clay soil?

Only if you amend it significantly. Pure clay holds water and rots the roots. Mix in coarse sand, grit, and compost. Create a raised bed or mound. Plant high. Excellent drainage is non-negotiable. Many gardeners succeed at planting catmints in improved clay.

Conclusion: Start Planting Catmints This Season

You now have everything you need for successful planting catmints. From choosing the right variety to preparing the site, from proper spacing to seasonal care, the steps are clear. These plants ask for so little and give so much. Months of blue flowers. Clouds of pollinators. Fragrant foliage. Deer resistance. Drought tolerance. Few perennials offer this much value.

Pick a sunny spot this week. Grab a few plants. Follow the guide. In a year, you will wonder why you waited. Your garden deserves the soft blue haze and busy bee traffic that only catmints provide. Happy planting catmints!

Frequently Asked Questions

What soil is best for planting catmints?

Well-draining soil is essential for planting catmints. They thrive in lean, sandy, or gravelly soil with a neutral to slightly alkaline pH. Heavy clay must be amended with coarse sand and compost to prevent root rot.

How often should I water newly planted catmints?

Water deeply every two to three days for the first two weeks, then twice weekly for a month, then weekly until established. After the first season, water only during extended dry spells.

Can catmints grow in containers?

Yes, catmints grow well in containers with gritty, well-draining potting mix. Ensure pots have drainage holes. Water when the top inch of soil is dry and fertilize monthly with dilute liquid fertilizer.

Why are my catmint plants flopping open in the middle?

Flopping is caused by too much shade, rich soil, overwatering, or age. Shear back by half in late spring (the Chelsea Chop) to promote bushier growth. Divide congested clumps every three to four years.

Are catmints invasive?

Most popular hybrids like ‘Walker’s Low’ are sterile and clump-forming, not invasive. Species types may self-seed moderately. Deadheading prevents unwanted seedlings when planting catmints.

Do catmints attract bees and butterflies?

Absolutely. Catmints are magnet plants for bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. Their long bloom season provides nectar from late spring through fall, making them valuable for pollinator gardens.