How to Plant Catmint Walkers Low

Catmint Walkers Low is a hardy, drought-tolerant perennial that produces stunning lavender-blue flowers from spring through fall. This guide covers everything you need to know about planting, spacing, soil preparation, watering, and ongoing care to help your catmint thrive in any garden setting.

Key Takeaways

• Choose the right location: Catmint Walkers Low needs full sun and well-draining soil to perform its best and produce abundant blooms.
• Space plants properly: Allow 18 to 24 inches between plants to accommodate their spreading habit and ensure good air circulation.
• Plant at the right time: Spring or early fall planting gives roots time to establish before extreme temperatures arrive.
• Water wisely during establishment: Keep soil consistently moist for the first few weeks, then reduce watering as plants become drought-tolerant.
• Shear after first bloom: Cutting plants back by half after the initial flush encourages a second heavy bloom period in late summer.
• Divide every few years: Divide clumps every 3 to 4 years in early spring to maintain vigor and prevent center die-out.
• Deer and rabbit resistant: The aromatic foliage naturally deters browsing animals, making it a low-maintenance choice for problematic areas.

Quick Answers to Common Questions

When is the best time to plant catmint Walkers Low?

Spring after the last frost or early fall at least six weeks before the first frost are the ideal planting times for catmint Walkers Low.

How far apart should I space catmint Walkers Low plants?

Space catmint Walkers Low 18 to 24 inches apart to allow for mature spread and good air circulation.

Does catmint Walkers Low need fertilizer?

No, catmint Walkers Low prefers lean soil and performs best without fertilizer. Excess nitrogen causes floppy growth and fewer flowers.

Should I cut back catmint Walkers Low after it blooms?

Yes, shear the plant back by half after the first bloom flush finishes in early summer to encourage a heavy second bloom and tidy growth.

Is catmint Walkers Low deer resistant?

Yes, the aromatic foliage of catmint Walkers Low naturally deters deer and rabbits, making it an excellent choice for gardens with browsing pressure.

Why Catmint Walkers Low Deserves a Spot in Your Garden

If you have been searching for a perennial that delivers months of color, asks for very little in return, and handles tough conditions like a champion, catmint Walkers Low might just be your new best friend. This award-winning plant has earned its reputation as a garden workhorse for good reason. It blooms its heart out from late spring straight through fall, attracts pollinators by the dozen, and laughs in the face of drought once established.

I first planted catmint Walkers Low along a sunny sidewalk strip where the soil was poor and the hose barely reached. Three years later, it is still the star of that bed. The soft gray-green foliage forms a neat mound, and the lavender-blue flower spikes just keep coming. Whether you are a seasoned gardener or just starting out, this plant makes you look good. Let us walk through everything you need to know to get yours off to the best possible start.

Getting to Know Catmint Walkers Low

What Makes This Variety Special

Catmint Walkers Low, known botanically as Nepeta x faassenii ‘Walker’s Low’, is not actually low-growing despite its name. The name honors the garden where it was discovered, not its height. This perennial reaches 24 to 30 inches tall and spreads 18 to 24 inches wide. It forms a relaxed, billowing mound of aromatic, gray-green leaves topped with spikes of small, tubular lavender-blue flowers.

It won the Perennial Plant Association’s Plant of the Year award in 2007, and for good reason. Unlike some catmints that flop open in the center, Walkers Low maintains a fairly tidy shape. The foliage releases a pleasant minty fragrance when brushed, which is why deer and rabbits tend to leave it alone. Bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds, however, cannot get enough of it.

Hardiness and Growing Zones

Catmint Walkers Low thrives in USDA hardiness zones 3 through 8. That covers a huge swath of the country, from chilly Minnesota winters to warm Georgia summers. In the coldest zones, it dies back to the ground completely and returns reliably each spring. In warmer zones, it may stay semi-evergreen through mild winters. If you garden in zone 9, you can still grow it, but provide some afternoon shade and ensure excellent drainage to prevent root rot during humid summers.

Bloom Time and Seasonal Interest

The main show starts in late spring, usually May or June depending on your zone. The first flush is the heaviest, covering the plant in a haze of blue. If you shear it back after that initial bloom, you will get a second, slightly smaller flush in late summer that often continues until frost. Even when not in bloom, the aromatic foliage adds texture and soft color to the garden. In fall, the leaves may take on a slight purplish cast before dying back.

Choosing the Perfect Planting Location

Sun Requirements for Maximum Blooms

Full sun is non-negotiable if you want the flower power this plant is famous for. Catmint Walkers Low needs at least six hours of direct sunlight daily, and eight is even better. In hot southern climates, it will tolerate a touch of afternoon shade, but too much shade leads to leggy growth, fewer flowers, and floppy stems. The plant will literally lean toward the light source, so plant it where it gets even sun exposure all around if possible.

I learned this the hard way when I tucked a few plants near a large shrub that cast more shade than I realized. They survived, but they stretched toward the sun and bloomed at half capacity. The following spring, I moved them to an open bed, and the difference was night and day. Full sun equals compact growth and maximum flowers.

Soil Preferences and Drainage Needs

Here is the good news: catmint Walkers Low is not fussy about soil fertility. It actually prefers lean, well-draining soil over rich, amended beds. Heavy clay is its enemy. If your soil holds water after rain, you will need to amend it or choose a different spot. Sandy or gravelly soil? Perfect. Average garden loam? Works great. The key is drainage. Wet feet, especially in winter, will kill this plant faster than anything else.

If you have clay soil, mix in coarse sand, fine gravel, or expanded shale at planting time. You can also plant on a slight mound or in a raised bed to improve drainage. Avoid heavy compost or manure in the planting hole. Too much organic matter holds moisture and encourages weak, floppy growth. Lean soil produces stronger stems and more essential oils in the foliage, which means better fragrance and pest resistance.

Spacing for Air Flow and Future Growth

Space catmint Walkers Low plants 18 to 24 inches apart, measured from center to center. This might look sparse at first, but these plants fill in quickly. Proper spacing allows air to circulate between plants, which prevents fungal issues like powdery mildew. It also lets each plant develop its natural mounded shape without competing for light.

If you are planting a drift or mass planting for impact, you can space them at the tighter 18-inch mark. For a more defined specimen look, go with 24 inches. When planting near paths or edges, set them back at least 12 inches from the hardscape. The foliage will spill over beautifully, but you do not want to be constantly trimming it back from the walkway.

When to Plant Catmint Walkers Low

Spring Planting Advantages

Spring is the classic planting time for perennials, and catmint Walkers Low is no exception. Plant after your last frost date when the soil has warmed up and is workable. In most zones, April through early June is ideal. Spring planting gives the roots a full growing season to establish before winter arrives. You will often see flowers the first summer, though the display will be more modest than in year two.

One advantage of spring planting is availability. Nurseries stock up in spring, so you will have the best selection. You can also see the plant’s form and sometimes even early blooms before you buy. Water consistently through the first summer, especially during dry spells. The root system is still developing and cannot forage for moisture like an established plant.

Fall Planting Benefits

Early fall is arguably even better for planting catmint Walkers Low in zones 5 through 8. The soil is still warm from summer, which encourages root growth, but air temperatures are cooler, reducing transplant shock. Rainfall is often more reliable in fall, meaning less supplemental watering for you. Plant at least six weeks before your average first frost date so roots can anchor before the ground freezes.

Fall-planted catmint often outperforms spring-planted specimens the following year because the root system had a head start. You might not see many flowers the first fall, but the plant will explode with growth next spring. In zones 3 and 4, stick with spring planting. The fall window is too short for reliable establishment before deep cold sets in.

Avoiding Summer and Winter Planting

Summer planting is possible but stressful. If you must plant in July or August, choose a cloudy day, provide temporary shade, and water daily for the first two weeks. Winter planting is a no-go in cold zones. In frost-free areas, you can plant in winter, but growth will be minimal until spring. The plant sits essentially dormant, and wet winter soil increases rot risk. Spring and fall are your sweet spots.

Step-by-Step Planting Process

Preparing the Planting Hole

Dig a hole twice as wide as the nursery pot but no deeper. You want the plant to sit at the same level it was in the container, or very slightly higher to allow for settling. A wide hole encourages roots to spread outward into the surrounding soil rather than circling in the planting pocket. If your soil is compacted, use a garden fork to loosen the bottom and sides of the hole. This prevents the “bathtub effect” where water collects in the planting hole and rots the roots.

Resist the urge to amend the backfill soil with compost, peat moss, or fertilizer. Research shows that perennials establish better when planted in native soil. Amended backfill creates a texture difference that discourages roots from leaving the planting hole. The exception is very poor sandy soil that cannot hold any moisture. In that case, mix in a small amount of compost, no more than 10 percent by volume.

Removing the Plant from Its Container

Water the plant thoroughly an hour before planting. This reduces transplant shock and helps the root ball hold together. Turn the pot on its side and gently squeeze or tap the sides to loosen the root ball. Slide the plant out. Never pull a plant out by its stems. If roots are circling the bottom or sides of the root ball, gently tease them apart with your fingers. If they are severely pot-bound, use a clean knife to make four vertical slices about half an inch deep around the root ball. This sounds harsh, but it encourages new outward growth.

Setting the Plant and Backfilling

Place the plant in the center of the hole. Check the depth by laying a tool handle across the hole. The top of the root ball should be level with or a hair above the handle. Adjust by adding or removing soil from the bottom. Once the depth is right, hold the plant upright and begin backfilling with the native soil you removed. Firm the soil gently with your hands as you go to eliminate large air pockets. Do not stomp with your foot. Over-compaction destroys soil structure and makes it harder for roots to penetrate.

Watering In and Initial Mulching

Water thoroughly after planting, even if the soil feels moist. This settles the soil around the roots and eliminates any remaining air gaps. Apply a two-inch layer of mulch around the plant, keeping it pulled back an inch from the stems. Shredded bark, pine straw, or leaf mold work well. Avoid piling mulch against the crown. Wet mulch against the stems invites crown rot, especially in humid climates. Mulch conserves moisture, suppresses weeds, and moderates soil temperature.

First Season Care for Strong Establishment

Watering Schedule for New Plants

The first growing season is all about root development. Water deeply two to three times per week for the first month, depending on rainfall and temperature. “Deeply” means soaking the root zone, not just wetting the surface. Check soil moisture by sticking your finger two inches down. If it feels dry at that depth, water. After the first month, reduce to once a week unless you get a good soaking rain.

By late summer, established catmint Walkers Low is quite drought-tolerant. But first-year plants still need attention during dry spells. A two-inch layer of mulch cuts watering needs significantly. In fall, taper off watering as temperatures cool and growth slows. You want the plant to harden off before winter, not go into the cold with soft, succulent growth from late-season watering and fertilizing.

To Fertilize or Not to Fertilize

Skip the fertilizer at planting time. Catmint Walkers Low grows best in lean conditions. Excess nitrogen produces lush, weak foliage at the expense of flowers and essential oils. If your soil is truly depleted, a light application of balanced slow-release fertilizer in early spring of the second year is plenty. Better yet, top-dress with a half-inch of compost around the plant each spring. This feeds the soil, which feeds the plant, without forcing weak growth.

I made the mistake of fertilizing a new catmint planting with a high-nitrogen lawn fertilizer that drifted into the bed. The plants grew huge and floppy, fell open in the center, and bloomed poorly. The next year, I did nothing but add a little compost. They were shorter, sturdier, and covered in flowers. Lesson learned. Lean and mean is the way to go with this plant.

Pinching for Bushier Growth

If your young plants look a bit leggy or you want to encourage a fuller mound, pinch back the growing tips by a third in late spring when the plant is about eight inches tall. This stimulates branching from lower nodes and creates a denser plant with more flower spikes. Use clean scissors or just pinch with your fingernails. Do not pinch after early summer, or you will delay the main bloom.

Ongoing Maintenance for Years of Beauty

The All-Important Mid-Season Shear

This is the single most important maintenance task for catmint Walkers Low. After the first heavy bloom finishes, usually late June to early July, shear the entire plant back by half. Use hedge shears or large scissors. Cut right into the foliage mound, not just the spent flower spikes. This looks brutal, and the plant will look like a buzz cut for a week. But within two weeks, fresh gray-green growth emerges, and within four weeks, you get a second massive flush of flowers that often lasts until frost.

If you skip this shear, the plant gets leggy, the center opens up, and flowering peters out. You also get a mess of brown seed heads. Some gardeners worry about removing potential seeds for birds, but the second bloom provides far more nectar for pollinators than the seeds feed birds. Goldfinches will still find plenty of seeds on other plants. The shear keeps the plant looking fresh and compact all season.

Dividing Mature Clumps

Every three to four years, usually in early spring just as new growth emerges, dig up and divide your catmint Walkers Low. The center of the clump often dies out, leaving a ring of growth slow, creating a donut shape. Division rejuvenates the plant and gives you free plants to expand your garden or share. Water the plant well the day before dividing.

Dig up the entire clump with a spade, getting as many roots as possible. Shake or wash off excess soil so you can see the root structure. Use a sharp knife or spade to cut the clump into sections, each with several healthy shoots and a good root system. Discard the woody, dead center. Replant divisions immediately at the same depth, water well, and mulch. They may look sad for a week but will bounce back quickly.

Fall and Winter Care

After the first hard frost kills the foliage, you have two choices. Cut the dead stems back to a few inches above ground, or leave them standing until early spring. Leaving them provides some winter protection for the crown and adds winter interest with frost-covered seed heads. It also marks the plant’s location so you do not accidentally dig it up during spring planting fever.

In cold zones, a light layer of evergreen boughs or straw over the crown after the ground freezes can help prevent frost heaving. Do not apply heavy mulch over the crown. Wet winter mulch causes crown rot. In spring, cut back any remaining dead stems to the ground before new growth appears. Rake away excess mulch from the crown to allow air circulation and prevent rot as the plant wakes up.

Design Ideas and Companion Plants

Classic Pairings for Sun Gardens

Catmint Walkers Low plays well with so many sun-loving perennials. Its soft blue flowers and gray foliage act as a neutral that ties together bolder colors. Plant it in front of tall ornamental grasses like Calamagrostis ‘Karl Foerster’ or Panicum ‘Northwind’. The grass provides vertical structure; the catmint softens the base. Pair it with roses for a classic English garden look. The catmint hides the rose’s bare knees and deters aphids with its aromatic foliage.

For a hot color scheme, combine it with Echinacea ‘Hot Papaya’, Rudbeckia ‘Goldsturm’, and Asclepias tuberosa. The blue catmint cools down the reds and oranges beautifully. For a pastel palette, try it with Salvia ‘May Night’, Achillea ‘Moonshine’, and Perovskia ‘Little Spire’. All share similar cultural needs: full sun, lean soil, good drainage.

Using Catmint Walkers Low in Different Garden Styles

In a cottage garden, let it self-sow gently among foxgloves, delphiniums, and poppies. It fills gaps and knits the planting together. In a Mediterranean or gravel garden, it is a star. Plant it in drifts among lavender, rosemary, thyme, and Cistus. The silver foliage echoes the hardscape. In a modern landscape, use it in mass plantings as a low hedge or border along a path. Its uniform height and long bloom season create a clean, contemporary line.

It also works beautifully in containers, provided the pot is large enough (at least 16 inches wide and deep) and has excellent drainage. Use a gritty potting mix with added perlite or pumice. Container plants need more frequent watering and a light spring feeding. They will not be as drought-tolerant as in-ground plants. In zones 5 and colder, move pots to an unheated garage for winter or plant them in the ground for the cold months.

Edging and Pathway Plantings

One of my favorite uses for catmint Walkers Low is along a garden path. The foliage spills over the edge, softening hard lines, and releases its minty scent when brushed by passersby. Plant it 12 to 18 inches back from the path edge. It will grow forward naturally. The long bloom season means color at ankle level for months. It handles foot traffic nearby without complaint, though do not plant it where it will be regularly stepped on.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Floppy Stems and Open Centers

If your catmint Walkers Low flops open in the center, the usual culprits are too much shade, too rich soil, too much water, or too much fertilizer. It can also happen if the plant is overdue for division. The fix: ensure full sun, stop fertilizing, reduce watering, and shear hard after the first bloom. If the center is dead, divide in spring. Sometimes a support ring placed early in the season helps, but addressing the cultural cause is better.

Powdery Mildew and Fungal Issues

Catmint Walkers Low has good resistance to powdery mildew, but it can occur in humid climates with poor air circulation. Space plants properly. Water at the base, not overhead. If mildew appears, remove affected leaves and improve air flow. A preventive spray of diluted milk (1 part milk to 9 parts water) or potassium bicarbonate can help in prone areas. But honestly, in full sun with good spacing, this is rarely a problem.

Root Rot and Winter Losses

Winter wet kills more catmint than winter cold. If plants disappear over winter, drainage is the issue. Heavy clay, low spots, and over-mulching are common causes. Amend soil with grit at planting. Plant on mounds in problem areas. Pull mulch back from crowns in fall. In very wet climates, consider planting in raised beds or containers. Once established in the right spot, catmint Walkers Low is remarkably long-lived.

Pests: Rare but Possible

The aromatic foliage deters most pests. Deer and rabbits avoid it. Aphids occasionally cluster on new growth in spring. Blast them off with a strong jet of water or let ladybugs handle them. Spider mites can appear in hot, dry, dusty conditions. Regular overhead watering (early day only) discourages them. Slugs and snails may nibble young spring growth in damp climates. Use organic slug bait if needed. Overall, this is one of the most pest-free perennials you can grow.

Propagation Methods for More Plants

Division: The Easiest Method

As described in the maintenance section, division in early spring is the fastest way to get mature, blooming-size plants. You get instant clones of the parent plant with zero guesswork. Do it every three to four years as routine maintenance, and you will always have plenty to share or expand your plantings.

Softwood Cuttings in Late Spring

Take four-inch cuttings from non-flowering shoots in late spring or early summer. Strip the lower leaves, dip the cut end in rooting hormone, and stick in a pot of moist perlite or sand. Cover with a plastic bag to maintain humidity. Place in bright, indirect light. Roots form in three to four weeks. Pot up and grow on until fall, then plant out or overwinter in a cold frame.

Growing from Seed: Not True to Type

Catmint Walkers Low is a sterile hybrid. It does not produce viable seed. Any seedlings that appear nearby will be from other catmint varieties in the area and will not be true to Walkers Low. If you want this exact cultivar, you must buy plants or propagate vegetatively by division or cuttings. Do not waste time trying to grow it from seed.

Conclusion: A Perennial That Gives Back Tenfold

Planting catmint Walkers Low is one of those gardening decisions you will thank yourself for every single year. It asks so little: sun, drainage, a haircut in July. In return, it gives you months of pollinator-filled blooms, aromatic foliage that deer ignore, and a presence that ties the whole garden together. Whether you tuck one plant into a sunny corner or plant a sweeping drift along a path, it delivers.

I have moved houses three times since I first grew this plant, and it has come with me every time. That is the highest compliment a gardener can pay a perennial. It is reliable, beautiful, and tough as nails. Follow the planting and care steps in this guide, and your catmint Walkers Low will thrive for years to come. Get your trowel ready. That sunny spot in your garden is waiting.

Frequently Asked Questions

How tall does catmint Walkers Low grow?

Catmint Walkers Low reaches 24 to 30 inches tall and spreads 18 to 24 inches wide at maturity, forming a mounded shape.

Can catmint Walkers Low grow in shade?

Catmint Walkers Low requires full sun (at least 6 hours) for best flowering and compact growth. Too much shade causes leggy, floppy plants with few blooms.

Is catmint Walkers Low invasive?

No, catmint Walkers Low is a sterile hybrid that does not self-seed aggressively. It spreads slowly by clumping and is easily managed by division every few years.

Why is my catmint Walkers Low flopping open in the middle?

Flopping is usually caused by too much shade, rich soil, overwatering, or over-fertilizing. Shear back after first bloom and ensure full sun and lean, well-drained soil.

Can I grow catmint Walkers Low in a container?

Yes, catmint Walkers Low grows well in large containers (16+ inches wide and deep) with gritty, well-draining potting mix. Water more frequently than in-ground plants.

How do I prepare catmint Walkers Low for winter?

After frost kills the foliage, cut stems back to a few inches or leave until spring. Apply light mulch away from the crown. In cold zones, evergreen boughs over the crown after ground freezes help prevent frost heaving.