Planting Catmint in Fall

Planting catmint in fall gives your plants a head start on root development before winter dormancy. This comprehensive guide covers everything from ideal planting windows and soil preparation to winter protection and spring care for thriving, pollinator-friendly perennials.

Key Takeaways

• Best planting window: Plant 6-8 weeks before your first hard frost for optimal root establishment
• Soil requirements: Well-draining soil with pH 6.0-7.0 is essential; catmint hates wet feet
• Sun exposure: Full sun (6+ hours) produces the most flowers and strongest fragrance
• Water wisely: Water deeply at planting, then reduce frequency as temperatures drop
• Skip fall fertilizer: Avoid nitrogen-rich fertilizers that stimulate tender growth before winter
• Mulch for protection: Apply 2-3 inches of mulch after ground freezes to prevent heaving
• Spring reward: Fall-planted catmint blooms earlier and more abundantly than spring plantings

Quick Answers to Common Questions

When is the latest I can plant catmint in fall?

Plant at least 6-8 weeks before your average first hard frost date. In most regions, this means late September to mid-October. Check your local frost dates and count backward.

Should I fertilize catmint when planting in fall?

No. Avoid fertilizing in fall. Nitrogen stimulates tender growth that won’t harden off before winter. Compost mixed into the planting hole provides all the nutrients needed.

How much water does fall-planted catmint need?

Water deeply every 2-3 days for the first two weeks, then gradually reduce to once weekly. Stop watering when the ground freezes. A final deep soak before hard freeze helps winter survival.

Will catmint survive winter in my zone?

Most catmint varieties are hardy in USDA zones 3-8. In zones 3-4, plant early in the fall window and mulch heavily after ground freezes. Choose varieties rated for your zone.

Should I cut back catmint in fall or spring?

Leave foliage standing through winter. The dead stems protect the crown and provide habitat for beneficial insects. Cut back to 3-4 inches in early spring when new growth appears at the base.

Why Fall Is the Secret Season for Planting Catmint

Most gardeners reach for their trowels in spring. It feels natural. The weather warms. The nurseries fill up. Everyone plants at once. But here is a little secret that experienced gardeners know. Planting catmint in fall often yields better results than spring planting. The reasons are simple and rooted in plant biology.

When you plant in autumn, the soil is still warm from summer. Warm soil encourages root growth. Meanwhile, air temperatures are cooling. This reduces stress on the top growth. The plant puts its energy underground. It builds a strong root system before the ground freezes. Come spring, that plant is ready to explode with growth. It does not waste weeks adjusting to its new home. It is already settled in.

Catmint, or Nepeta, is a tough perennial. It handles this transition beautifully. It is drought-tolerant once established. It resists deer and rabbits. Bees and butterflies adore it. And it blooms for months with almost no effort. If you have been thinking about adding this garden workhorse to your beds, fall is your moment. Let us walk through exactly how to do it right.

Understanding Catmint Basics Before You Plant

What Exactly Is Catmint?

Catmint belongs to the genus Nepeta. It is a member of the mint family, Lamiaceae. Do not confuse it with catnip (Nepeta cataria). Catnip drives cats wild. Catmint is more ornamental. It has a milder effect on felines. Most garden cats ignore it or just nap nearby.

The plants form mounds of aromatic, gray-green foliage. The leaves release a pleasant, minty scent when brushed. From late spring through fall, they send up spikes of small, tubular flowers. Colors range from soft lavender-blue to deep violet, pink, and white. The bloom time is incredibly long. Many varieties flower for three months or more.

Popular Varieties to Consider

Not all catmints are created equal. Some are compact edgers. Others are sprawling giants. Choosing the right variety saves you headaches later.

• ‘Walker’s Low’: The classic choice. Perennial Plant of the Year in 2007. Grows 24-30 inches tall and wide. Lavender-blue flowers. Reliable and floriferous.
• ‘Cat’s Meow’: A newer introduction. Very compact at 17-20 inches. Dense habit. Does not flop open in the center. Great for small spaces.
• ‘Purrsian Blue’: Even smaller. 14-18 inches tall. Perfect for containers or front of border. Intense blue flowers.
• ‘Six Hills Giant’: The big one. 3-4 feet tall and wide. Needs space. Spectacular mass planting.
• ‘Junior Walker’: A dwarf version of ‘Walker’s Low’. 15-18 inches. Same great performance in a smaller package.
• ‘Pink Cat’: Soft pink flowers. 18-24 inches. Adds a different color to the palette.
• ‘White Wonder’: Pure white blooms. 24-30 inches. Glows in the evening garden.

Hardiness and Climate Considerations

Most catmint varieties are hardy in USDA zones 3-8. Some handle zone 9 with afternoon shade. They dislike hot, humid summers in the deep South. In those regions, treat them as short-lived perennials or annuals. They thrive in the Intermountain West, the Northeast, the Midwest, and the Pacific Northwest. They love the cool nights and low humidity of these areas.

If you garden in a marginal zone, fall planting is even more critical. The extra root development time makes the difference between survival and loss. In zones 3-4, plant early in the fall window. In zones 7-8, you have a wider window. You can plant later into autumn.

Timing Your Fall Planting Perfectly

The Golden Rule: Six to Eight Weeks Before Frost

The single most important factor in planting catmint in fall is timing. You need to give the roots time to establish before the ground freezes hard. The general rule is 6-8 weeks before your average first hard frost date. A hard frost means temperatures dropping to 28°F (-2°C) or below for several hours.

Check your local frost dates. Your county extension office has this data. Online tools like the National Gardening Association frost date calculator work well. Once you have your date, count backward. Mark your calendar. This is your planting deadline.

Regional Planting Windows

Let us look at what this means in practice across different regions.

• Zones 3-4 (Northern tier): First hard frost often arrives in late September to early October. Plant in late August to early September. Do not push it.
• Zones 5-6 (Midwest, Northeast, Pacific Northwest): First hard frost typically mid to late October. Plant mid-September to early October. This is the sweet spot.
• Zone 7 (Mid-Atlantic, parts of South): First hard frost early to mid-November. Plant late September to late October. You have flexibility.
• Zone 8 (Coastal South, parts of West): First hard frost late November to December. Plant October through early November. In warmest parts, you can plant into December.

Reading the Weather, Not Just the Calendar

Frost dates are averages. Weather varies year to year. Watch the forecast. If an early cold snap threatens, plant immediately. It is better to plant a week early than a day late. If fall stays warm and mild, you can stretch the window slightly. But do not gamble. Roots need time.

Also consider soil temperature. Catmint roots grow best when soil is above 45°F (7°C). You can buy an inexpensive soil thermometer. Check at 4 inches deep in mid-morning. If it is consistently below 45°F, you are past the optimal window. The plant will survive but root growth will be minimal until spring.

What If You Miss the Window?

Life happens. Maybe you found a great sale in late October. Maybe you were busy. If the ground is not frozen, you can still plant. But you must provide extra care. Mulch heavily immediately after planting. Use 3-4 inches of straw or shredded leaves. Water deeply before a freeze. Consider a temporary windbreak of burlap if the site is exposed. The plant may not put on much root growth, but it will survive to spring.

Preparing the Perfect Planting Site

Sunlight: Non-Negotiable

Catmint demands full sun. This means at least 6 hours of direct, unfiltered sunlight daily. 8 hours is better. In hot southern climates, a little afternoon shade is acceptable. But in most regions, more sun equals more flowers, stronger stems, and better fragrance. Shade makes catmint leggy. It flops open. It flowers poorly. It becomes susceptible to powdery mildew. Choose the sunniest spot you have.

Soil Drainage: The Make-or-Break Factor

If sun is the first requirement, drainage is the second. Catmint hates wet feet. Period. Heavy clay soil that stays soggy will rot the roots. This is especially dangerous in winter when wet soil freezes and thaws. The plant will not survive.

Test your drainage. Dig a hole 12 inches deep and 12 inches wide. Fill it with water. Let it drain. Fill it again. Time how long it takes to empty. If it takes more than 4 hours, you have a drainage problem. You have three options.

• Amend heavily: Mix in coarse sand, fine gravel, and compost. Create a raised mound.
• Build a raised bed: 12-18 inches high with well-draining mix.
• Choose a different spot: Sometimes the best fix is moving the plant.

Soil pH and Fertility

Catmint prefers slightly alkaline to neutral soil. pH 6.0 to 7.0 is ideal. It tolerates up to 7.5. It struggles in acidic soil below 6.0. A simple soil test tells you where you stand. Your extension office offers testing for a small fee. Home test kits work for a rough idea.

If your soil is acidic, add garden lime according to test recommendations. Do this a few weeks before planting if possible. Lime takes time to react.

Fertility needs are low. Catmint thrives in lean soil. Rich soil produces lush, weak growth that flops. It also reduces essential oil concentration. Less fragrance. Fewer flowers. If your soil is decent, add just an inch of compost worked into the top 6 inches. That is plenty. Skip the manure. Skip the high-nitrogen fertilizers.

Spacing for Air Flow and Future Growth

Check your variety’s mature width. Space plants accordingly. Good air circulation prevents fungal diseases. It also lets each plant develop its natural shape.

• Compact varieties (15-20 inches): Space 18-24 inches apart.
• Medium varieties (24-30 inches): Space 24-30 inches apart.
• Large varieties (3-4 feet): Space 36-48 inches apart.

If planting in a mass or drift, you can space slightly closer. But err on the side of more space. You can always fill gaps with annuals for a season.

Step-by-Step Planting Process

Gather Your Tools and Materials

Before you start, have everything ready. This makes the job smooth and fast. Roots exposed to air dry out quickly.

• Garden spade or shovel
• Garden fork (for loosening subsoil)
• Watering can or hose with gentle nozzle
• Compost (1 bag per 3-4 plants)
• Coarse sand or fine gravel if drainage is questionable
• Mulch (straw, shredded leaves, pine bark)
• Garden gloves
• Plant labels and permanent marker

Prepare the Planting Hole

Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball. No deeper. The plant should sit at the same level it was in the pot. Planting too deep causes crown rot. Planting too high exposes roots.

If your soil is heavy, rough up the sides and bottom of the hole with your fork. Smooth walls create a “bathtub effect” where water pools. Rough walls let water move into surrounding soil.

Mix some compost into the excavated soil. About 1 part compost to 3 parts native soil. If adding sand or gravel for drainage, mix it in now. Do not create a layer. Mix thoroughly.

Remove the Plant from Its Pot

Water the plant in its pot an hour before planting. This reduces transplant shock. The root ball holds together better.

Tip the pot on its side. Squeeze the sides gently. Slide the plant out. If it resists, tap the bottom. Do not pull by the stems. You will break them.

Inspect and Loosen Roots

Look at the root ball. Are roots circling the bottom? Are they a dense mat? This is common in nursery pots. Gently tease the bottom roots apart with your fingers. Pull the circling roots outward. If the root ball is extremely tight, make 3-4 vertical slices 1/2 inch deep with a clean knife. This sounds harsh. It stimulates new root growth. The plant will thank you.

Position and Backfill

Set the plant in the hole. Check the level. The crown (where stems meet roots) should be at soil level. Not buried. Not exposed. Adjust by adding or removing soil from the bottom.

Fill the hole halfway with your amended soil. Firm it gently with your hands. No stomping. You want to eliminate large air pockets, not compact the soil. Water slowly to settle the soil. Let it drain. Fill the rest of the hole. Firm gently again. Water thoroughly.

Create a Water Basin

Form a low berm of soil 12-18 inches from the stem in a circle. This creates a basin. It holds water over the root zone. It prevents runoff. This is especially helpful on slopes.

Mulch Immediately

Apply 2-3 inches of mulch. Keep it 2-3 inches away from the stems. Mulch against the crown invites rot and pests. Straw, shredded leaves, and pine bark are excellent choices. Wood chips work but break down slowly and can tie up nitrogen temporarily. Avoid rubber mulch. It does not improve soil.

Label Your Plants

Trust me. You will forget what you planted where. Use a durable label. Write the variety name and planting date. Push it into the soil at the edge of the planting hole. In spring, you will be glad you did.

Fall Care: The First Critical Weeks

Watering Strategy

Water is the lifeline for new plantings. But fall watering is different from summer watering. The goal is deep, infrequent watering that encourages roots to chase moisture downward.

Week 1-2: Water every 2-3 days if no rain. Check soil 2 inches down. If dry, water. Apply enough to wet the root zone 6-8 inches deep.

Week 3-4: Reduce to twice a week. Same depth check.

Week 5-6: Once a week. Unless it rains heavily.

After week 6: Water only during dry spells of 2+ weeks. Stop water 10+ days.

Always water in the morning. Foliage should dry before evening. Wet leaves at night invite disease. Water at the base. Keep leaves dry.

As temperatures drop, the plant needs less water. But do not let the root ball dry out completely before the ground freezes. A hydrated plant survives winter better than a desiccated one. The last deep watering before hard freeze is crucial.

To Fertilize or Not to Fertilize?

Do not fertilize in fall. This is a common mistake. Nitrogen stimulates tender new growth. That growth will not harden off before winter. It will die back. It wastes the plant’s energy. It can weaken the crown.

If you amended with compost at planting, that is all the nutrition needed. The compost breaks down slowly. It feeds soil microbes. They feed the plant. Natural and safe.

If your soil test showed specific deficiencies (phosphorus, potassium), you can apply those. But only per test recommendations. And only slow-release, organic forms. Bone meal for phosphorus. Greensand or kelp meal for potassium. No synthetic quick-release fertilizers.

Mulching for Winter Protection

We mulched at planting. But winter mulch is different. Its job is temperature moderation. It prevents freeze-thaw cycles that heave plants out of the ground. Heaving breaks roots. It exposes the crown to killing cold.

Wait until the ground freezes hard. Usually late November to December in most zones. Then add another 2-3 inches of loose mulch. Straw is ideal. Shredded leaves work well. Pine boughs are traditional. They trap air. They stay loose. They do not mat down.

Do not apply winter mulch too early. Warm soil under early mulch keeps the plant active. It delays dormancy. It attracts rodents who nest in the cozy mulch and chew stems. Wait for frozen ground.

Dealing with Fall Pests and Diseases

Catmint is remarkably pest-free. But a few issues can appear in fall.

• Powdery mildew: White powdery coating on leaves. Common in humid falls with cool nights. Improve air flow. Avoid overhead watering. Remove badly affected leaves. Do not compost them.
• Spider mites: Tiny pests on leaf undersides. Cause stippling and bronzing. Common in dry falls. Blast with water. Insecticidal soap if severe.
• Slugs and snails: Chew holes in leaves. Active in damp weather. Beer traps. Diatomaceous earth. Hand-pick at night.
• Root rot: Wilting despite moist soil. Caused by poor drainage. No cure. Prevention is everything.

Should You Cut Back in Fall?

No. Leave the foliage standing through winter. The dead stems and leaves protect the crown. They catch snow for insulation. They provide habitat for beneficial insects. Many native bees overwinter in hollow stems. Birds eat seeds from the spent flower heads.

Wait until early spring. When you see new green growth at the base, cut the old stems back to 3-4 inches. This is the signal. The plant is waking up. The old growth has done its job.

Spring Awakening: What to Expect

Emergence Timing

Catmint is an early riser. In most zones, you will see green shoots at the base in March or April. Sometimes even late February in mild winters. This is normal. Do not panic if a late freeze hits. The new growth is tough. It can handle light frost.

Fall-planted catmint emerges earlier than spring-planted. It has a head start. You will see vigorous growth by mid-spring. Flower buds form in late spring. First blooms typically appear in late May to June depending on your zone.

Spring Cleanup and First Feeding

Once new growth is 2-3 inches tall, do your spring cleanup.

• Cut dead stems to 3-4 inches above ground.
• Remove winter mulch. Pull it back from the crown.
• Rake out debris. Leaves, twigs, old mulch.
• Apply a thin layer of fresh compost around the plant. 1/2 inch is plenty.
• Reapply 2 inches of fresh mulch. Keep it off the crown.

This is the one time you can apply a light balanced fertilizer if you want. A slow-release organic 5-5-5 or similar. But honestly, the compost is enough. Catmint does not need much.

Pinching for Bushier Plants

Want a denser, more floriferous plant? Pinch it. When stems are 6-8 inches tall in spring, pinch or snip off the top 1-2 inches of each stem. This forces branching. More branches mean more flower spikes. Do this once. Maybe twice for large varieties. Stop pinching by early June or you delay flowering.

First Year Bloom Expectations

Fall-planted catmint often blooms well in its first summer. Not always at full capacity. But a respectable show. Spring plantings often sulk the first year. They spend energy on roots. Fall plantings did that work last autumn. They are ready to perform.

Deadhead spent flowers to encourage rebloom. Shear the whole plant back by half after the first big flush. It looks drastic. But it produces a fresh mound of foliage and a second heavy bloom in late summer. This is the secret to months of color.

Long-Term Care and Maintenance

Division: When and How

Catmint benefits from division every 3-4 years. The center of the clump dies out. The plant becomes a ring. Flowering declines. Division rejuvenates it.

Best time: Early spring as new growth appears. Or early fall (following the same timing rules as planting).

Process: Dig up the whole clump. Use a sharp spade or knife to cut into sections. Each section needs roots and shoots. Discard the woody dead center. Replant the vigorous outer pieces. Water well. Mulch. They recover fast.

Managing Self-Seeding

Some catmint varieties self-seed modestly. ‘Walker’s Low’ can produce seedlings. They are easy to pull. Or transplant them. They may not come true from seed if you have multiple varieties. Hybrid varieties like ‘Cat’s Meow’ are often sterile or nearly so. Less seeding.

If you want to prevent seeding entirely, shear after first bloom before seeds mature. This also gives you the second flush. Win-win.

Companion Planting Ideas

Catmint plays well with others. Its soft texture and blue flowers complement many plants.

• Roses: Classic combo. Catmint hides rose knees. Blue contrasts with pink, red, yellow roses.
• Salvia: Similar needs. Different flower shapes. Extended bloom season.
• Echinacea (Coneflower): Bold daisies above catmint haze. Goldfinches love both.
• Ornamental grasses: Texture contrast. Panicum, Schizachyrium, Calamagrostis.
• Yarrow (Achillea): Flat umbels vs. spikes. Same tough nature.
• Russian Sage (Perovskia): Taller blue haze behind catmint. Stunning mass effect.
• Alliums: Spring bulbs bloom before catmint peaks. Catmint hides dying allium foliage.

Container Growing

Compact varieties thrive in containers. Use a pot at least 12 inches wide and deep. Drainage holes are mandatory. Use a gritty potting mix. 2 parts potting soil, 1 part perlite or coarse sand. Water when top inch is dry. Fertilize lightly once in spring. Overwinter pots in an unheated garage or bury pot in ground. Roots in pots freeze faster than in ground.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

Flopping Open Centers

The classic catmint complaint. The plant splits open in the middle. Stems lie flat. Center is bare. Causes: Too much shade. Too rich soil. Too much water. Not enough pinching. Old plant needing division.

Fixes: Move to more sun. Stop fertilizing. Water less. Pinch in spring. Divide in spring or fall. Shear hard after first bloom. It will regrow tighter.

Poor Flowering

Lots of leaves, few flowers. Usually too much nitrogen. Or not enough sun. Or the plant is old and woody. Fix: Stop fertilizing. Ensure 6+ hours sun. Divide if over 3-4 years old.

Yellowing Leaves

Can be overwatering. Poor drainage. Nutrient deficiency (usually iron in alkaline soil). Or natural aging of lower leaves. Check soil moisture. Improve drainage. Test soil pH. If high pH, add chelated iron.

Winter Kill

Plant does not emerge in spring. Causes: Poor drainage (ice around roots). Extreme cold without snow cover. Heaving. Planting too late. Variety not hardy in your zone. Heavy mulch against crown causing rot.

Prevention: Choose hardy varieties. Plant on time. Ensure drainage. Mulch after freeze. Do not pile mulch on crown.

Designing with Catmint in the Landscape

Edging and Borders

Compact varieties make perfect edging. Plant along a path or driveway. The fragrance releases when brushed. The soft edge blurs hard lines. Space 18 inches for a continuous low hedge. ‘Purrsian Blue’ and ‘Cat’s Meow’ excel here.

Mass Plantings and Drifts

Large varieties shine in masses. Plant in groups of 5, 7, or 9. Space 3 feet apart. The effect is a sea of blue. Pollinators flock to it. Maintenance is low. One shear in summer. ‘Six Hills Giant’ and ‘Walker’s Low’ are drift champions.

Rock Gardens and Slopes

Catmint loves the sharp drainage of rock gardens. It cascades over stones beautifully. On slopes, its roots hold soil. It suppresses weeds. Plant at the top of a wall and let it spill down. ‘Junior Walker’ and ‘Purrsian Blue’ are great for this.

Pollinator and Wildlife Gardens

If you want bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds, catmint is essential. It blooms when many other plants are between flushes. It provides nectar for months. Plant it near vegetable gardens to draw pollinators to your squash and tomatoes. The aromatic foliage may deter some pests too.

Cottage Garden Style

Catmint is a cottage garden staple. Its informal habit fits perfectly. Let it mingle with self-seeders like poppies, foxgloves, and nigella. It fills gaps. It softens edges. It asks for little and gives much.

Frequently Asked Questions About Fall Planting

Can I plant catmint in winter?

In zones 7-8, you can plant into early winter if the ground is workable. In colder zones, no. The roots cannot establish in frozen soil. The plant will heave and die. Wait for spring if you missed the fall window.

Will fall-planted catmint bloom the first year?

Yes, usually. Not at full maturity, but a good show. Spring plantings often skip heavy bloom the first year. Fall planting gives you a head start.

Do I need to water in winter?

Only during dry spells when the ground is not frozen. If the soil is frozen, water cannot penetrate. If it thaws and has been dry for two weeks, water deeply once. This is rare in most climates.

Can I divide catmint in fall?

Yes, same timing as planting. 6-8 weeks before frost. Water well. Mulch heavily after ground freezes. Spring division is also excellent and sometimes easier because you see the new growth points.

What if my catmint arrives bare-root in fall?

Plant immediately. Soak roots in water for 1-2 hours first. Spread roots over a mound of soil in the hole. Backfill carefully. Water well. Mulch. Bare-root plants need extra attention but establish well in fall.

Is catmint invasive?

No. It spreads by clumping, not running roots. Some varieties self-seed modestly. Seedlings are easy to remove. It is not on any invasive species lists. It is a well-behaved garden citizen.

Conclusion: Your Fall Planting Action Plan

You now have everything you need for successful planting catmint in fall. Let us recap the essential steps.

First, check your frost date. Count back 6-8 weeks. Mark that date. That is your deadline.

Second, choose your variety. Match the mature size to your space. Consider color. Think about pollinators.

Third, pick your site. Full sun. Excellent drainage. Lean soil. Good air flow.

Fourth, prepare the soil. Test pH. Amend drainage if needed. Add a little compost.

Fifth, plant properly. Wide hole. Same depth. Loosen roots. Backfill with amended soil. Water deeply. Mulch.

Sixth, care for the first weeks. Water deeply but infrequently. Taper off as weather cools. No fertilizer.

Seventh, winter protection. Wait for frozen ground. Add loose mulch. Leave foliage standing.

Eighth, spring wake-up. Clean up early. Light compost. Pinch for density. Enjoy the show.

Fall planting is an act of faith. You put small plants into cooling earth. You trust the unseen work underground. But catmint rewards that faith generously. Come June, when the first lavender haze appears above the gray-green mounds, when bees dance from flower to flower, when the scent rises on a warm breeze, you will know. This was worth it. Your garden is richer. Your pollinators are fed. Your effort was small. The return is immense.

So grab that trowel. Check the calendar. Plant some catmint this fall. Your spring self will thank you.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I plant catmint in October?

Yes, you can plant catmint in October if you are in USDA zones 6-8 and the ground isn’t frozen. In zones 3-5, October is usually too late unless you’re planting early in the month. The key is allowing 6-8 weeks for root establishment before hard frost.

Does catmint come back every year?

Yes, catmint is a perennial that returns reliably each spring in zones 3-8. It dies back to the ground in winter and re-emerges from the crown in early spring. With proper care, plants live 5-10 years or more before needing division.

How far apart should I space catmint plants?

Space compact varieties (15-20 inches tall) 18-24 inches apart. Space medium varieties (24-30 inches) 24-30 inches apart. Space large varieties (3-4 feet) 36-48 inches apart. Proper spacing ensures good air circulation and prevents disease.

Why is my catmint flopping open in the middle?

Flopping is usually caused by too much shade, rich soil, overwatering, or lack of spring pinching. Move to full sun, stop fertilizing, reduce watering, and pinch stems back by 1-2 inches when 6-8 inches tall in spring. Divide old plants every 3-4 years.

Can catmint grow in shade?

Catmint needs full sun (6+ hours direct sunlight) for best flowering and compact growth. In hot southern climates, it tolerates light afternoon shade. In shade, plants become leggy, flower poorly, and are prone to powdery mildew.

Is catmint the same as catnip?

No. Catmint (Nepeta x faassenii and hybrids) is ornamental with showy flowers and mild effect on cats. Catnip (Nepeta cataria) is weedy, less ornamental, and intensely attractive to cats. They are different species in the same genus.