How Far Apart to Plant Catmint

Plant catmint 18 to 24 inches apart for most varieties to ensure good air circulation and room for mature spread. Dwarf types need only 12 to 15 inches while larger cultivars like ‘Six Hills Giant’ require up to 36 inches. Proper spacing prevents disease, encourages blooming, and creates the full, billowy look catmint is famous for.

So you have picked up a few catmint plants from the nursery. Maybe you fell for those soft gray-green leaves. Maybe you want the bees and butterflies that flock to the purple-blue flower spikes. Or maybe you just heard it is one of the toughest, lowest-maintenance perennials you can grow. All true. But now you are standing in your garden bed with a trowel in hand wondering how far apart to plant catmint for the best results.

Here is the short answer. Most catmint varieties want 18 to 24 inches of elbow room. But the real answer depends on which catmint you bought, what kind of garden you are planting, and how patient you are willing to be. Get the spacing right and you will have clouds of blooms for months. Get it wrong and you might end up with floppy stems, mildewy leaves, or bare patches that never fill in. Let us walk through everything you need to know so your catmint looks like a magazine photo instead of a crowded mess.

Key Takeaways

• Standard spacing is 18 to 24 inches: Most catmint varieties thrive when planted 18 to 24 inches apart from center to center.
• Dwarf varieties need less room: Compact types like ‘Little Trudy’ or ‘Blue Wonder’ only require 12 to 15 inches between plants.
• Large cultivars need more space: Vigorous growers like ‘Six Hills Giant’ and ‘Walker’s Low’ should be spaced 30 to 36 inches apart.
• Purpose changes spacing: Mass plantings, borders, containers, and pollinator gardens each have slightly different spacing needs.
• Air circulation prevents disease: Proper spacing reduces powdery mildew and fungal issues by allowing leaves to dry quickly after rain.
• Measure from center to center: Always space plants measuring from the center of one root ball to the center of the next.
• Divide every 3 to 4 years: Overcrowded clumps lose vigor and should be divided in early spring or fall to maintain healthy spacing.

Quick Answers to Common Questions

How far apart should I plant Walker’s Low catmint?

Space Walker’s Low catmint 24 inches apart from center to center. This variety reaches 24 to 36 inches wide at maturity and needs room to develop its signature fountain shape without crowding neighbors.

Can I plant catmint closer together for faster coverage?

You can plant 2 to 3 inches tighter than recommended for quicker fill-in, but avoid spacing closer than 15 inches for standard varieties. Overcrowding leads to powdery mildew, floppy stems, and reduced flowering within a year or two.

What is the spacing for dwarf catmint varieties like Little Trudy?

Dwarf catmint varieties need 12 to 15 inches between plants. Their mature width, so space them 12 to 15 inches apart center to center for proper air circulation and individual plant definition.

Should I measure spacing from the edge of the pot or the center of the plant?

Always measure from the center of the root ball or crown to the center of the next plant. Measuring from pot edges or leaf tips gives inconsistent results because foliage width varies.

How often should I divide catmint to maintain good spacing?

Divide catmint every 3 to 4 years in early spring or early fall. This prevents center die-out, maintains vigor, and keeps plants at their intended spacing. Each division yields 3 to 5 new plants.

Understanding Catmint Growth Habits

Before we talk numbers, it helps to know how catmint actually grows. Catmint (Nepeta) is a clump-forming perennial in the mint family. Unlike true mint, it does not run underground and take over your yard. Instead, each plant forms a neat mound that slowly gets wider each year. The stems grow up and then gracefully arch outward, creating that soft, billowy fountain shape garden designers love.

Mature Size Matters Most

The spacing rule is simple. Space plants based on their mature width, not the size of the pot you bought. A plant in a four-inch pot might only be six inches wide today. But in two years, that same plant could be a three-foot-wide mound. If you plant based on current size, you will be digging and dividing before you know it.

Most catmint varieties fall into three size categories. Dwarf types stay around 12 to 18 inches tall and wide. Standard varieties reach 18 to 24 inches tall and 24 to 30 inches wide. Large cultivars can hit 30 to 36 inches tall and wide or even more in rich soil. Knowing which group yours belongs to is step one.

Growth Rate Varies by Variety

Some catmints are sprinters. Others are marathon runners. Nepeta x faassenii cultivars like ‘Walker’s Low’ and ‘Six Hills Giant’ establish fast. They can reach near-full size in a single growing season. Nepeta racemosa types like ‘Little Trudy’ grow more slowly. They might take two or three years to hit their stride. Faster growers need more space upfront. Slower growers can be planted a little tighter if you are willing to wait.

Root Systems and Competition

Catmint has a fibrous root system that spreads horizontally just below the soil surface. When plants are too close, roots compete for water and nutrients. The result? Stunted growth, fewer flowers, and plants that look tired by midsummer. Good spacing means each plant gets its own slice of soil pie. This is especially important in dry climates or sandy soils where water is limited.

Standard Spacing Guidelines by Variety

Now let us get specific. Here is how far apart to plant catmint based on the most popular varieties you will find at garden centers.

Dwarf and Compact Varieties (12 to 15 Inches)

These little guys are perfect for the front of the border, rock gardens, or edging a path. They stay neat and tidy without flopping.

• ‘Little Trudy’ (Nepeta ‘Psfike’) – 10 to 12 inches tall, 12 to 15 inches wide. Space 12 inches apart.
• ‘Blue Wonder’ (Nepeta racemosa ‘Blue Wonder’) – 12 to 15 inches tall and wide. Space 12 to 15 inches apart.
• ‘Junior Walker’ (Nepeta ‘Novanepjun’) – 15 to 18 inches tall, 18 to 24 inches wide. Space 15 to 18 inches apart.
• ‘Kit Cat’ (Nepeta ‘Kit Cat’) – 12 to 18 inches tall and wide. Space 15 inches apart.

Plant these closer if you want a solid edge quickly. Plant at the wider end if you want to see each individual mound shape.

Standard Varieties (18 to 24 Inches)

This is the sweet spot for most gardeners. These varieties give you presence without overwhelming nearby plants.

• ‘Walker’s Low’ (Nepeta racemosa ‘Walker’s Low’) – 24 to 30 inches tall, 24 to 36 inches wide. Despite the name, this is not a low grower. Space 24 inches apart.
• ‘Cat’s Meow’ (Nepeta ‘Cat’s Meow’) – 17 to 20 inches tall, 24 to 30 inches wide. Space 24 inches apart.
• ‘Cat’s Pajamas’ (Nepeta ‘Cat’s Pajamas’) – 12 to 14 inches tall, 18 to 20 inches wide. Space 18 to 20 inches apart.
• ‘Purrsian Blue’ (Nepeta ‘Purrsian Blue’) – 14 to 18 inches tall, 18 to 24 inches wide. Space 20 inches apart.

These are the workhorses of the perennial border. They bloom heavily, hold their shape well, and play nice with neighbors.

Large and Vigorous Varieties (30 to 36 Inches)

These are the showstoppers. Give them room to shine or they will swallow their neighbors.

• ‘Six Hills Giant’ (Nepeta ‘Six Hills Giant’) – 30 to 36 inches tall and wide. Space 30 to 36 inches apart.
• ‘Blue Dragon’ (Nepeta ‘Blue Dragon’) – 30 to 36 inches tall, 36 to 48 inches wide. Space 36 inches apart.
• ‘Souvenir d’André Chaudron’ (Nepeta kubanica) – 36 to 48 inches tall, 36 to 48 inches wide. Space 36 to 48 inches apart.

These varieties make fantastic specimen plants or drifts in large meadow-style plantings. They are too big for small beds unless you plan to divide frequently.

Species Types and Seed-Grown Plants

If you are growing catmint from seed or buying straight species like Nepeta cataria (true catnip) or Nepeta mussinii, expect more variation. Seed-grown plants are not clones. One might stay compact. Its sibling might sprawl. Space these 24 to 30 inches apart to be safe. You can always move extras later.

Spacing for Different Garden Purposes

The variety tells you the maximum space. Your garden goal tells you the minimum. Here is how to adjust how far apart to plant catmint based on what you are trying to achieve.

Mass Plantings and Drifts

For that dreamy, hazy cloud of blue that looks like a Monet painting, plant on the tighter side of the range. Use 18-inch spacing for standard varieties. Use 12-inch spacing for dwarfs. The plants will knit together into a continuous mound within one or two seasons. This approach works beautifully on slopes, in large island beds, or along a long fence line.

Tip: Stagger the rows in a triangular pattern rather than a straight grid. This creates a more natural look and fills gaps faster. Think of the five on a die. That is your planting pattern.

Mixed Perennial Borders

In a mixed border, catmint plays a supporting role. It softens the feet of roses, fills around peonies, or fronts taller grasses. Here, use the wider end of the spacing range. Give standard varieties 24 to 30 inches. Give dwarfs 15 to 18 inches. You want to see the individual plant shape. You also want room for the neighbors’ roots and foliage.

Remember that catmint blooms early and often gets sheared back after the first flush. After shearing, it looks a bit bare for a few weeks. Generous spacing lets companion plants cover that gap gracefully.

Edging and Pathway Borders

For a clean edge along a path or driveway, consistency is key. Plant dwarf varieties 12 inches on center in a straight line. For standard varieties, use 18 inches on center. The goal is a continuous ribbon of foliage and flower. Avoid the temptation to plant closer. Crowded edging plants flop onto the path, get stepped on, and look messy fast.

Pollinator and Wildlife Gardens

Bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds love catmint. If your main goal is feeding pollinators, plant in groups of three to five of the same variety. Space at the standard rate (18 to 24 inches for most). Groups are more visible to flying insects than single plants scattered around. Plus, massed blooms mean more nectar per square foot.

Consider planting early, mid, and late-season catmint varieties together. ‘Walker’s Low’ starts in late spring. ‘Cat’s Meow’ peaks in early summer. ‘Blue Dragon’ carries on into fall. Staggered bloom times keep the buffet open longer.

Container Planting

Catmint does well in pots, but spacing rules change. In a container, you are limited by pot diameter. A 12-inch pot holds one dwarf plant. An 18-inch pot holds one standard plant or two dwarfs. A 24-inch pot holds one large variety or two standard plants. Do not crowd containers. The restricted root zone means competition is fierce. Use high-quality potting mix and water more often than in-ground plants.

Rock Gardens and Dry Gardens

In lean, well-drained soil, catmint stays more compact. You can shave 2 to 3 inches off the standard spacing. The plants simply will not grow as large as they would in rich, moist soil. This is a great place to use the tighter spacing for a full look without the maintenance of constant dividing.

How to Measure and Mark Planting Spots

You have your plants. You know your spacing. Now how do you actually get them in the ground at the right distance? Eyeballing it leads to wonky rows and uneven gaps. Let us do it right.

Tools That Make Spacing Easy

You do not need fancy equipment. A few simple tools make the job fast and accurate.

• Measuring tape: A 25-foot tape is plenty for most beds.
• Bamboo stakes or landscape flags: Mark each planting spot before you dig.
• String line: For straight rows or edges, run a string between two stakes.
• Pre-marked stick or board: Cut a piece of scrap wood to your spacing distance. Use it like a ruler to jump from plant to plant.
• Garden trowel with inch markings: Some trowels have measurements on the blade. Handy for quick checks.

Step-by-Step Layout Process

Follow these steps for a professional-looking result.

1. Prepare the bed first. Remove weeds, loosen soil, amend with compost if needed. Rake smooth.
2. Set your first plant. Place it where you want the row or drift to start. This is your anchor.
3. Measure from center. Place your tape measure at the center of the first plant’s root ball. Measure out your spacing distance.
4. Mark the spot. Push a bamboo stake or flag into the soil at that exact measurement.
5. Repeat. Move the tape to the new stake. Measure again. Mark again. Work down the line.
6. Check your pattern. For staggered rows, measure diagonally from the first row to place the second row. The distance should be the same as your in-row spacing.
7. Step back and look. Before digging, stand back. Does the layout look right? Adjust stakes now. It is easier than moving planted perennials.
8. Dig and plant. Replace each stake with a plant. Water well.

Triangular Spacing for Drift Spacing vs. Row Spacing

Most gardeners default to rows. But triangular spacing (also called equilateral triangle spacing) fits more plants in the same area and looks more natural. Here is how it works.

Imagine an equilateral triangle. All three sides are the same length. That length is your plant spacing. Plant the first row. The second row goes halfway between the first row plants, offset by half the spacing distance. The third row lines up with the first. And so on.

For 24-inch spacing, your rows are about 21 inches apart (24 x 0.866). Each plant in row two sits 12 inches from its neighbors in row one. This creates a diamond pattern that fills in beautifully.

Common Spacing Mistakes to Avoid

Even experienced gardeners get spacing wrong sometimes. Here are the pitfalls that trip people up most often.

Planting Too Close for “Instant Fullness”

We all want the garden to look finished the day we plant. But cramming plants together backfires. Within a year, you have a jungle. Air cannot circulate. Leaves stay wet. Powdery mildew moves in. Stems grow tall and weak reaching for light. Flowers decrease. You end up dividing or removing plants sooner than if you had just been patient.

If you need instant impact, buy larger plants. A one-gallon catmint covers more ground than a four-inch pot. Or plant annuals like zinnias or cosmos between the young perennials for the first season. The annuals fill the gaps. The perennials take over next year.

Ignoring Mature Width on the Label

Plant tags are not suggestions. They are data. If the tag says “spreads 30 inches,” believe it. That number comes from trial gardens where the plant grew for years. Your plant will do the same in decent conditions. Write the mature width on the tag with a Sharpie if you tend to forget.

Forgetting About Neighboring Plants

Catmint does not exist in a vacuum. That rose bush behind it? It needs root space too. The ornamental grass beside it? It will get wider. The lavender in front? It hates wet feet from catmint’s shade. Space catmint from its neighbors using the same center-to-center rule. Add the mature radius of catmint to the mature radius of the neighbor. That is your minimum distance.

Not Adjusting for Soil Fertility

Rich soil + regular water + fertilizer = bigger plants. The spacing on the tag assumes average garden soil. If you garden in black gold compost-amended beds and irrigate regularly, your catmint will exceed the label dimensions. Add 3 to 6 inches extra spacing in high-fertility situations. Conversely, in poor, dry soil, you can plant slightly closer.

Measuring from Leaf Tips Instead of Centers

This is the most common measuring error. You lay the tape from the outer leaves of one plant to the outer leaves of the next. But leaves move. Stems arch. The center of the crown is the fixed point. Always measure crown center to crown center. If the plant is in a pot, the center of the pot is your reference.

Adjusting Spacing Over Time

Spacing is not a one-and-done decision. Gardens change. Plants grow. Here is how to manage spacing as the years go by.

The Three-Year Rule

Perennials follow a loose timeline. Year one: sleep. Year two: creep. Year three: leap. Catmint often leap in year two. By year three, most varieties are at or near mature width. This is when spacing mistakes become obvious. Walk your beds each spring. Look for plants touching neighbors. Look for bare centers in clumps. Look for reduced flowering. These are signals.

When and How to Divide

Catmint benefits from division every three to four years. The center of the clump gets woody and stops producing new shoots. The outer ring is vigorous. Division resets the clock.

Best times: Early spring as new growth emerges, or early fall (September in most zones) so roots establish before winter.

How to divide:

1. Dig up the entire clump.
2. Shake or wash off excess soil.
3. Pull or cut the clump into sections. Each section needs 3 to 5 healthy shoots and a good root mass.
4. Discard the woody center.
5. Replant divisions at proper spacing.
6. Water well and mulch.

One mature clump usually yields three to five new plants. Replant one in the original spot. Use the rest to expand the drift, fill a gap, or give to a friend.

Editing the Garden

Sometimes a plant is just in the wrong place. Maybe it is shading a sun-lover. Maybe it is crowding a path. Maybe the color clashes with a new addition. Do not be afraid to move it. Catmint transplants easily in spring or fall. Dig a wide root ball. Replant at the correct spacing in the new location. Water consistently for a few weeks. It will barely notice the move.

Succession Planning

If you love the tight, full look of a newly planted drift, plan for succession. Plant your catmint at proper mature spacing. Then fill the gaps with short-lived perennials or self-sowing annuals for the first two years. Good partners: California poppy, nigella, annual salvia, or dwarf zinnias. As the catmint expands, the fillers naturally fade out. No bare soil. No crowding. Just a smooth transition.

Companion Planting and Spacing Interactions

Catmint is a team player. But its spacing affects its teammates. Let us look at common pairings and how to manage the space between them.

Roses and Catmint

Classic combo. Catmint hides rose knees. Rose provides height. But roses hate competition at their base. Plant catmint at least 24 inches from the rose crown. More for large catmint varieties. This gives the rose root zone breathing room. It also makes it easier to mulch, fertilize, and prune the rose without trampling the catmint.

Catmint and Lavender

Both love sun and drainage. Both are aromatic. But lavender is slower and hates wet foliage. Space catmint 30 inches from lavender. The catmint’s arching stems can trap moisture against lavender leaves if too close. That leads to rot. Give lavender its own air space.

Catmint and Ornamental Grasses

Grasses like Calamagrostis ‘Karl Foerster’ or Pennisetum ‘Hameln’ add vertical structure. Catmint softens their base. Space based on the grass’s mature width. A 24-inch wide grass needs the catmint center 24 inches plus the catmint radius away. So 24 + 12 = 36 inches for standard catmint. This feels far at planting time. It looks perfect in July.

Catmint in the Vegetable Garden

Catmint attracts pollinators and may repel some pests. Plant it at the ends of raised beds or in corners. Space 18 to 24 inches from veggies. Do not let it flop onto lettuce or shade peppers. Shear it back after first bloom to keep it tidy and blooming through harvest season.

Catmint and Spring Bulbs

Plant catmint over daffodils, alliums, or tulips. The catmint foliage emerges as bulb foliage fades, hiding the yellowing leaves. Space catmint at standard distances. The bulbs are underground. They do not compete for above-ground space. Just be careful not to stab bulbs when digging catmint holes.

Regional Considerations for Spacing

Where you garden changes how catmint behaves. Climate, soil, and rainfall all influence mature size.

Cool, Moist Climates (Pacific Northwest, Northeast, UK)

Catmint grows larger here. Long spring, ample rain, cool nights = vigorous growth. Add 3 to 6 inches to standard spacing. Watch for powdery mildew. Good air circulation from proper spacing is your best defense. Shear after first bloom to promote fresh, mildew-resistant foliage.

Hot, Dry Climates (Southwest, Mediterranean, Plains)

Catmint stays more compact. Heat and drought limit size. You can use the tighter end of the spacing range. In extreme heat, some afternoon shade helps. But do not crowd. Even small plants need root room to find water. Mulch well to keep roots cool.

Humid Southeastern Climates

Humidity + heat = fungal pressure. Space generously. Use the wide end of every range. 24 inches minimum for standard varieties. 36 inches for large ones. Plant in full sun with good air flow. Avoid low spots where humid air settles. Shear hard after each bloom flush to keep foliage open and dry.

High Altitude / Short Season

Growing season is compressed. Catmint may not reach full mature width in a single season. But it will over several years. Space for the mature size anyway. The plants will fill in slower but they will get there. Choose early-blooming varieties like ‘Walker’s Low’ for maximum flower time.

Design Tips for Visual Impact

Spacing is not just about plant health. It is a design tool. How you space changes the entire feel of the planting.

Repetition and Rhythm

The human eye loves repetition. Plant the same catmint variety at regular intervals along a border. Every 6 feet. Every 8 feet. The rhythm pulls the eye through the garden. It creates cohesion. Use the same spacing each time. Consistency reads as intentional. Random spacing reads as accidental.

Drifts vs. Specimens

A drift is a group of 3, 5, 7, or more of the same plant. A specimen is a single plant given stage space. Drifts need tight internal spacing (18 inches) and wide external spacing (4 to 6 feet to the next drift). Specimens need wide spacing on all sides (3 to 4 feet minimum) so the full fountain shape is visible 360 degrees.

Layering Heights

In a border, space catmint so it bridges the gap between front-of-border plants (6 to 12 inches) and mid-border plants (3 to 4 feet). Standard catmint at 24 inches tall does this perfectly. Plant it 18 to 24 inches behind the front edge. Plant mid-border plants 24 to 30 inches behind the catmint. The layers read clearly.

Color Blocking

Catmint comes in blue-purple, pink, and white. If mixing colors, keep each color in its own drift. Space drifts 4 to 6 feet apart. Mixing colors plant-by-plant creates visual chaos. The spacing between drifts lets each color read as a distinct block.

Troubleshooting Spacing Problems

Even with planning, issues pop up. Here is how to fix the most common spacing-related problems.

Plants Are Flopping Open in the Center

This usually means too much shade, too much fertilizer, or too little space. If neighbors are crowding, remove or move the neighbor. If the catmint itself is too dense, shear the outer stems to let light into the center. Next spring, divide the clump and replant the vigorous outer pieces.

Bare Patches Between Plants

You planted at correct spacing but gaps remain after two years. Causes: poor soil, insufficient water, root competition from nearby trees, or a slower-growing variety. Fix: top-dress with compost. Water deeply once a week during dry spells. If tree roots are the issue, consider raised beds or containers. Or accept the gaps and mulch them.

Plants Merging Into One Indistinguishable Mass

You wanted distinct mounds. You got a hedge. This happens when spacing is too tight for the variety. Solution: shear the mass into a deliberate hedge shape. Or dig and divide in spring, replanting at wider spacing. Or embrace it. A catmint hedge can be lovely along a path.

Center Die-Out

The middle of the clump turns brown and woody. The green growth is only on the outer ring. This is natural aging. It happens faster when plants are crowded. Divide in spring. Discard the dead center. Replant the live outer sections with fresh soil and proper spacing.

Quick Reference Spacing Chart

Keep this handy when you head to the nursery or stand in your garden bed.

Variety Type	Examples	Mature Width	Spacing (Center to Center)	Best For
Dwarf	‘Little Trudy’, ‘Blue Wonder’, ‘Kit Cat’	12-18 in	12-15 in	Edging, rock gardens, containers
Compact Standard	‘Cat’s Pajamas’, ‘Purrsian Blue’, ‘Junior Walker’	18-24 in	18-20 in	Front of border, small beds
Standard	‘Walker’s Low’, ‘Cat’s Meow’, ‘Blue Wonder’	24-36 in	24 in	Mixed borders, mass plantings, pollinator gardens
Large/Vigorous	‘Six Hills Giant’, ‘Blue Dragon’, ‘Souvenir d’André Chaudron’	36-48 in	30-36 in	Specimen plants, large drifts, meadow gardens
Species/Seed-grown	N. cataria, N. mussinii, seed mixes	24-36 in	24-30 in	Herb gardens, naturalized areas

Final Thoughts on Catmint Spacing

Knowing how far apart to plant catmint is one of those gardening details that separates a planting that looks good for a month from one that looks good for years. The numbers are not arbitrary. They come from how the plant actually grows. Respect the mature width. Measure from center to center. Adjust for your soil, climate, and design goals.

If you remember nothing else, remember this. 18 to 24 inches covers most catmint, most of the time. Go wider for giants. Go tighter for dwarfs. When in doubt, give it an extra inch. You can always fill a gap with an annual. You cannot easily fix a crowd.

Your catmint will reward proper spacing with waves of blooms, clouds of pollinators, and that effortless, romantic look that makes neighbors slow down on their evening walks. It asks for so little. Sun. Drainage. A little room to breathe. Give it that, and it gives you months of beauty in return.

Now grab your tape measure. Your catmint is waiting.

Frequently Asked Questions

What happens if I plant catmint too close together?

Overcrowded catmint develops poor air circulation, leading to powdery mildew and fungal diseases. Stems grow tall and weak as they compete for light, causing the plant to flop open. Flower production decreases, and the center of the clump often dies out prematurely.

Can I plant different catmint varieties next to each other?

Yes, but space each according to its mature width. A dwarf variety next to a giant variety needs the giant’s spacing requirement (30+ inches) so the larger plant does not swallow the smaller one. Group same varieties together for the best visual impact.

Does catmint spacing change if I am planting in containers?

Container spacing is dictated by pot size, not garden spacing rules. One dwarf plant per 12-inch pot. One standard plant per 18-inch pot. Two standard plants per 24-inch pot. Do not crowd containers; restricted root space intensifies competition.

How far from a rose bush should I plant catmint?

Plant catmint at least 24 inches from the base of a rose bush. Large catmint varieties need 30 to 36 inches. This prevents root competition, allows access for rose pruning and care, and ensures good air flow for both plants.

Will catmint spread and fill in gaps if I space it widely?

Catmint is clump-forming, not spreading by runners. It only gets wider as the crown expands. It will not aggressively fill gaps like mint or groundcovers. Space for the mature width you want. Gaps will not close on their own unless you plant more or allow self-seeding.

Can I plant catmint closer in poor soil since it will stay smaller?

In poor, dry soil, catmint may stay 10 to 20 percent smaller than label dimensions. You can reduce spacing by 2 to 3 inches in these conditions. However, do not go below the minimum for the variety, as root competition in poor soil is even more stressful for the plants.