Buy Catmint Plant

Catmint (Nepeta) is a hardy, drought-tolerant perennial that attracts pollinators and delights cats. This guide covers everything you need to know before you buy catmint plant varieties, from choosing the right cultivar to finding reputable nurseries and ensuring long-term garden success.

Key Takeaways

• Catmint thrives in full sun and well-drained soil: Most varieties need at least six hours of direct sunlight daily and prefer lean, sandy or rocky soil over rich, moist conditions.
• Choose the right variety for your space: Compact types like ‘Walker’s Low’ suit borders, while taller cultivars like ‘Six Hills Giant’ work well in cottage gardens and mass plantings.
• Buy from reputable nurseries for healthy plants: Look for stocky growth, white roots, and no signs of pests or disease when you buy catmint plant specimens locally or online.
• Plant in spring or early fall for best establishment: These seasons offer moderate temperatures and reliable moisture, giving roots time to develop before extreme weather arrives.
• Shear after first bloom for a second flush: Cutting plants back by one-third after flowering encourages fresh growth and extends the bloom season into autumn.
• Catmint resists deer, rabbits, and most pests: Its aromatic foliage deters browsing animals, making it a low-maintenance choice for rural and suburban gardens alike.
• Divide every three to four years to maintain vigor: Over time, centers become woody and flower production declines; division rejuvenates plants and provides free new starts.

Quick Answers to Common Questions

When is the best time to buy catmint plant starts?

Spring and early fall are ideal for purchasing and planting catmint. Spring offers a wide selection at nurseries. Fall planting gives roots time to establish before winter.

Which catmint variety is best for small gardens?

‘Kit Cat’, ‘Little Trudy’, and ‘Junior Walker’ stay under eighteen inches tall and wide, making them perfect for compact spaces, containers, and border edges.

How do I know if a catmint plant is healthy at the nursery?

Look for stocky growth, multiple stems, white firm roots, clean foliage without spots or pests, and a firm crown. Avoid leggy, yellowing, or root-bound plants.

Does catmint come back every year?

Yes, catmint is a hardy perennial in zones 3-8. It dies back in winter and returns from the crown each spring, often larger and more floriferous than the previous year.

Can I grow catmint in shade?

Catmint needs at least six hours of direct sun for best flowering and compact growth. In partial shade, it becomes leggy, produces fewer flowers, and is more prone to powdery mildew.

Why Gardeners Love Catmint

If you have ever walked past a garden border in early summer and noticed a cloud of lavender-blue flowers buzzing with bees, you have likely met catmint. This perennial favorite earns its keep in countless ways. It blooms for months. It asks for little water once established. It shrugs off deer and rabbits. And yes, it makes many cats blissfully happy.

But before you buy catmint plant starts, it helps to understand what you are getting. Catmint belongs to the genus Nepeta, a member of the mint family. Unlike its aggressive cousin spearmint, catmint behaves itself. It forms tidy mounds rather than running underground. The aromatic gray-green foliage releases a minty scent when brushed. The flowers, usually shades of blue, purple, or white, appear in loose spikes from late spring through fall.

Garden designers rely on catmint for its versatility. It softens hard edges along paths. It fills gaps between roses, hiding their bare knees. It pairs beautifully with ornamental grasses, coneflowers, and salvias. Whether you want a single accent plant or a sweeping drift, there is a catmint variety that fits. Let us walk through everything you need to know before you buy catmint plant material for your garden.

Understanding Catmint Varieties

The Classic: Nepeta x faassenii

This hybrid group includes the most popular garden catmints. Plants typically reach eighteen to twenty-four inches tall and wide. The foliage forms a neat mound. Flowers are lavender-blue. Bloom starts in late spring and continues sporadically all summer with deadheading. ‘Walker’s Low’ is the superstar here. Despite the name, it is not especially low. It grows twenty-four to thirty inches tall. It won the Perennial Plant of the Year award in 2007. ‘Blue Wonder’ stays more compact at twelve to eighteen inches. ‘Dropmore’ offers deeper blue flowers on a slightly larger plant.

The Giant: Nepeta ‘Six Hills Giant’

If you want drama, this is your catmint. It reaches thirty to thirty-six inches tall and wide. The flower spikes are longer. The overall presence is bolder. It works well in the middle or back of a border. It can flop after heavy rain, so plant it where neighboring plants provide support. Some gardeners shear it back by half in late May to encourage sturdier growth. This technique, called the Chelsea Chop, delays bloom slightly but produces a more upright plant.

Compact Choices for Small Spaces

Not every garden has room for a three-foot perennial. ‘Kit Cat’ tops out at twelve inches. ‘Little Trudy’ reaches ten to twelve inches with a spreading habit. ‘Junior Walker’ is a dwarf version of ‘Walker’s Low’ at fifteen to eighteen inches. These smaller varieties excel in rock gardens, containers, and the front of borders. They also work well as edging plants along paths where you can brush against the fragrant foliage.

White and Pink Flowering Options

Blue is classic, but not your only choice. ‘Snowflake’ produces pure white flowers on compact plants. ‘Pink Cat’ offers soft pink blooms. ‘Dawn to Dusk’ features pale pink flowers with darker calyces that extend the color show. These lighter shades glow in evening light and pair beautifully with pastel roses and peonies.

Species Types for Naturalistic Plantings

Nepeta racemosa and Nepeta sibirica are species forms rather than hybrids. They tend to be a bit looser in habit. Nepeta sibirica ‘Souvenir d’Andr Chaudron’ has large, showy flowers and a long bloom season. It can spread more aggressively than hybrids, so give it room. Nepeta grandiflora ‘Bramdean’ offers deep violet-blue flowers on tall stems. These species types suit meadow plantings and informal cottage gardens.

Where to Buy Catmint Plant Material

Local Nurseries and Garden Centers

Buying locally lets you inspect plants before purchase. Look for stocky growth with multiple stems emerging from the crown. Avoid plants that are leggy, yellowing, or root-bound. Gently tip the pot and check roots. They should be white or light tan, firm, and fill the container without circling excessively. Leaves should be free of spots, holes, or sticky residue. Ask staff when the plants arrived. Fresh stock tends to establish better than plants that have sat for weeks in hot parking lots.

Independent nurseries often carry a wider selection than big-box stores. They may offer unusual varieties like ‘Purple Haze’ or ‘Blue Dragon’. Staff at these shops usually have hands-on experience with the plants they sell. They can advise on which cultivars perform best in your specific area. Many independent nurseries grow their own perennials or source from regional wholesale growers. This means plants are already acclimated to your climate.

Online Mail-Order Nurseries

When you buy catmint plant starts online, you gain access to a vast selection. Reputable mail-order nurseries ship healthy, well-rooted plants in protective packaging. They often guarantee survival for a year. Read reviews before ordering. Look for companies that specialize in perennials rather than general merchandise retailers. Good online nurseries provide detailed cultural information and planting instructions with each shipment.

Timing matters with mail order. Most nurseries ship based on your hardiness zone. They hold orders until planting conditions are right in your area. Spring and fall are the main shipping seasons. Avoid mid-summer shipments unless you can provide consistent water and shade during establishment. Upon arrival, open boxes immediately. Water plants if the soil is dry. Place them in a sheltered, shady spot for a day or two before planting. This hardening-off period reduces transplant shock.

Plant Sales and Garden Club Events

Local plant sales offer unique opportunities. Master Gardener programs, botanical gardens, and garden clubs often host spring sales. These events feature divisions from members’ gardens. You can find heirloom varieties and proven local performers. Prices are usually lower than retail. The sellers are fellow gardeners who can share firsthand experience. Arrive early for the best selection. Bring cash and your own boxes or trays for transport.

What to Avoid When Shopping

Steer clear of plants sold in full bloom in tiny pots. These are often forced in greenhouses and may struggle to transition to garden conditions. Avoid any plant with weeds growing in the pot. Weeds indicate poor nursery hygiene and compete for nutrients. Pass on plants with moss or liverwort on the soil surface. This suggests overwatering and potential root rot. Do not buy catmint plant material from unheated outdoor displays in early spring if nights are still freezing. Cold damage may not show immediately but can set plants back significantly.

Choosing Healthy Plants

Root System Evaluation

The root system tells the true story. A healthy perennial has a firm, well-developed root mass. Roots should hold the potting mix together when you slide the plant from its container. White root tips indicate active growth. Brown, mushy, or foul-smelling roots signal trouble. If roots circle the bottom of the pot tightly, the plant is root-bound. You can still buy it, but you must tease or slice the roots before planting to encourage outward growth.

Foliage Quality Check

Catmint foliage should be gray-green to green, depending on variety. Yellow leaves often mean nutrient deficiency or overwatering. Brown, crispy edges suggest drought stress or fertilizer burn. Check the undersides of leaves for aphids, spider mites, or whiteflies. These pests hide in the foliage and can infest your garden. Look for powdery mildew, which appears as white dust on leaves. While catmint resists most diseases, stressed plants can develop mildew in humid conditions.

Stem and Crown Inspection

The crown is where stems meet roots. It should be firm, not soft or mushy. Multiple stems emerging from the crown indicate a well-branched plant. A single weak stem suggests a young or struggling plant. Avoid any plant with damaged or broken main stems. Catmint recovers from minor damage, but severe breakage can ruin the plant’s shape for the season.

Pot Size Considerations

Most nurseries sell catmint in quart, one-gallon, or two-gallon pots. Quart pots are economical but require more patience. One-gallon plants offer a good balance of price and immediate impact. Two-gallon specimens give instant presence but cost more. For mass plantings, smaller pots make financial sense. For a focal point, a larger plant pays off in first-year show. Remember that catmint grows fast. A quart plant in spring can reach near-mature size by fall.

Planting and Establishment

Timing Your Planting

Spring and early fall are ideal. In spring, wait until soil has warmed and danger of hard frost has passed. This varies by region. In zone 5, that might be late April. In zone 8, it could be March. Fall planting should occur at least six weeks before the ground freezes. This gives roots time to establish. Summer planting works if you commit to diligent watering. Heat-stressed transplants need daily attention for the first few weeks.

Site Selection and Preparation

Catmint demands full sun. Six hours minimum. Eight is better. In hot southern climates, afternoon shade helps prevent scorching. Soil must drain well. Catmint rots in wet clay. If your soil is heavy, amend with coarse sand, fine gravel, or expanded shale. Organic matter helps, but do not overdo it. Rich soil produces floppy, flower-shy plants. Lean soil encourages compact growth and abundant blooms.

Test drainage by digging a hole twelve inches deep and filling it with water. If it drains in under an hour, you are good. If water stands for hours, improve drainage or choose a different spot. Raised beds and slopes work well. Catmint also thrives in containers with gritty potting mix.

Spacing Guidelines

Space plants according to mature width. ‘Walker’s Low’ needs twenty-four to thirty inches between centers. ‘Six Hills Giant’ requires thirty-six inches. Compact varieties like ‘Kit Cat’ can go twelve to eighteen inches apart. For a solid mass, plant on the tighter end of the range. For individual specimens with visible form, use wider spacing. Stagger rows in a triangular pattern for naturalistic drifts.

Planting Technique

Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball and the same depth. Loosen the soil at the bottom and sides. Remove the plant from its pot. If roots are circling, gently tease them apart or make four vertical slices an inch deep around the root ball. Place the plant so the crown sits at soil level. Backfill with native soil mixed with a handful of compost. Firm gently. Water thoroughly to settle soil and eliminate air pockets. Mulch with gravel, crushed stone, or a thin layer of shredded bark. Keep mulch away from the crown.

First-Season Care

Water deeply twice a week for the first month, then weekly through the first growing season. Adjust for rainfall. Do not fertilize at planting. Catmint prefers lean conditions. If growth seems slow by midsummer, apply a light scattering of balanced organic fertilizer. Deadhead spent flowers to encourage rebloom. In late fall, leave stems standing. They protect the crown and provide winter interest. Cut back to four inches in early spring before new growth emerges.

Ongoing Care and Maintenance

Watering Established Plants

Once established, catmint is remarkably drought-tolerant. Its deep taproot accesses moisture far below the surface. In most regions, rainfall suffices after the first year. During extended dry spells, a deep soaking every two to three weeks keeps plants looking fresh. Overwatering causes more problems than underwatering. Soggy soil leads to root rot and fungal diseases. If leaves yellow and stems flop, check soil moisture before watering more.

Fertilization Philosophy

Less is more. Catmint evolved in poor, rocky soils. Excess nitrogen produces lush foliage at the expense of flowers. It also weakens stems, causing flopping. If your soil is extremely sandy or you see pale growth, apply a slow-release organic fertilizer in early spring at half the recommended rate. Compost applied as a thin top-dressing in fall provides gentle nutrition. Avoid liquid fertilizers and high-nitrogen lawn products near catmint.

Pruning and Deadheading

Deadheading extends the bloom season significantly. Shear the entire plant back by one-third after the first heavy flush fades. This usually occurs in early July. Use hedge shears or hand pruners. The plant looks rough for a week, then pushes fresh growth and flowers. In long-season climates, you may get a third flush if you repeat the process. Stop deadheading by early September to allow plants to harden off before winter.

The Chelsea Chop

This preemptive pruning technique controls height and prevents flopping. In late May, when stems are twelve to eighteen inches tall, cut the entire plant back by half. This delays bloom by two to three weeks but produces a shorter, sturdier plant with more branching. It works especially well on ‘Six Hills Giant’ and other tall varieties. You can also chop only the front half of a clump for staggered bloom.

Division and Propagation

Divide catmint every three to four years in early spring. Signs it is time: reduced flowering, dead center, diminished vigor. Dig the entire clump. Use a sharp spade or knife to cut into sections, each with several shoots and healthy roots. Replant divisions immediately at the same depth. Water well. Discard the woody center. Division also gives you free plants to expand your garden or share with friends.

You can also propagate from softwood cuttings in late spring. Take four-inch cuttings from non-flowering shoots. Strip lower leaves. Dip in rooting hormone. Plant in moist sand or perlite. Cover with a plastic bag. Roots form in three to four weeks. Seed propagation is possible but hybrids do not come true from seed. Species types like Nepeta racemosa grow readily from seed sown in spring.

Designing with Catmint

Classic Combinations

Catmint and roses are a legendary pairing. The mounding habit hides bare rose canes. The blue flowers complement pink, red, yellow, and white roses. Both want full sun and good drainage. ‘Walker’s Low’ underplanted with ‘Knock Out’ roses creates months of color with minimal care. Add lavender for a Mediterranean trio.

Ornamental grasses provide texture contrast. ‘Karl Foerster’ feather reed grass rises vertically behind catmint mounds. Blue fescue echoes the foliage color at the front. Switchgrass and little bluestem add autumn interest after catmint fades.

Pollinator Gardens

Few perennials attract more bees, butterflies, and beneficial insects. Plant catmint in drifts of three, five, or seven for maximum pollinator draw. Combine with coneflowers, bee balm, butterfly weed, and asters for season-long nectar. Avoid pesticides. Even organic treatments can harm the very insects you want to attract.

Edging and Pathways

Low varieties like ‘Kit Cat’ and ‘Little Trudy’ make fragrant edging. Plant them where you will brush against them. The scent release is delightful. They tolerate occasional foot traffic. Along a gravel path, they soften the edge and spill gracefully. In a knot garden, they provide structure and scent.

Container Culture

Catmint thrives in pots. Choose a container at least twelve inches wide and deep. Use a gritty mix: two parts potting soil, one part coarse sand or perlite, one part compost. Ensure drainage holes. Water when the top inch of soil feels dry. Fertilize monthly with dilute liquid fertilizer during active growth. In cold zones, move pots to an unheated garage for winter. In mild zones, they can stay outdoors year-round.

Rock Gardens and Slopes

The natural habitat of many Nepeta species is rocky hillsides. They excel in rock gardens, spilling over stones. On slopes, their roots stabilize soil. Combine with sedums, thymes, and dwarf conifers. The gray foliage looks at home among rocks. Good drainage is automatic.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Flopping Stems

This is the number one complaint. Causes include rich soil, too much water, insufficient sun, or heavy rain on tall varieties. Solutions: shear back after first bloom, apply the Chelsea Chop in May, stake discreetly with peony rings or bamboo stakes, or move to a sunnier, leaner spot next spring. Some gardeners accept a relaxed habit as part of catmint’s charm.

Powdery Mildew

Appears as white powder on leaves in humid weather. Usually cosmetic. Improve air circulation by thinning crowded plants. Water at the base, not overhead. Remove severely affected leaves. Serious cases may warrant a horticultural oil spray. Resistant varieties include ‘Walker’s Low’ and ‘Blue Wonder’.

Root Rot

Caused by poorly drained soil. Symptoms: wilting despite moist soil, yellowing leaves, blackened roots. Prevention is key. Plant in well-drained soil. Avoid low spots. If rot occurs, dig the plant, trim away rotted roots, dust with fungicide, and replant in a better location. Often the plant is too far gone.

Cat Damage

Some cats love catmint too much. They roll, chew, and flatten plants. If this happens, protect young plants with chicken wire cages until established. Mature plants usually recover from occasional feline attention. Consider planting a sacrificial patch of catnip (Nepeta cataria) away from your prized ornamentals. Catnip is the true feline favorite. Most cats ignore ornamental catmint once they find catnip.

Winter Kill

In zones 3 and 4, some varieties may not survive harsh winters. ‘Walker’s Low’ and ‘Six Hills Giant’ are among the hardiest. Mulch with straw or evergreen boughs after the ground freezes. Do not mulch too early. Wet mulch on unfrozen soil encourages rot. Container plants need extra protection. Move to an unheated garage or sink pots in the ground.

Buying Catmint for Specific Purposes

For Cat Enrichment

If your primary goal is feline entertainment, buy Nepeta cataria (true catnip) rather than ornamental catmint. Catnip has a higher concentration of nepetalactone, the compound that triggers the euphoric response. It is less ornamental, with coarse foliage and white flowers. Grow it in a pot or dedicated bed. Replace plants every year or two as they lose potency.

Ornamental catmints contain nepetalactone but in lower amounts. About fifty percent of cats respond to them. If you want both beauty and cat appeal, ‘Walker’s Low’ and ‘Six Hills Giant’ are good compromises. Plant a few extra so cats can enjoy some while others remain intact for display.

For Herbal Use

Catmint leaves make a pleasant, mild tea. Nepeta cataria and Nepeta x faassenii are both used. Harvest leaves just before flowering for best flavor. Dry in a single layer in a dark, airy place. Store in airtight jars. The tea is traditionally used for relaxation and digestion. Pregnant women should avoid catmint tea as it can stimulate uterine contractions.

For Cut Flowers

Catmint stems work in casual bouquets. Cut when half the flowers on a spike are open. Strip lower leaves. Condition in cool water for a few hours. They last five to seven days. The loose, airy habit adds movement to arrangements. Combine with roses, peonies, and lady’s mantle. Note that stems are somewhat fragile. Handle gently.

For Erosion Control

On sunny slopes, catmint’s fibrous root system holds soil. Plant in staggered rows eighteen inches apart. Use larger pots or divisions for faster coverage. ‘Six Hills Giant’ and species types like Nepeta sibirica cover ground quickly. Interplant with deep-rooted natives like little bluestem for long-term stability.

Seasonal Care Calendar

Early Spring (March-April)

Cut back last year’s stems to four inches. Remove winter mulch from crowns. Apply a thin layer of compost around plants. Divide overcrowded clumps. Plant new purchases as soil warms. Watch for early growth.

Late Spring (May)

Apply Chelsea Chop if desired. Stake tall varieties before they need it. Begin regular deadheading as first flowers fade. Monitor for aphids on new growth. Water new plantings consistently.

Summer (June-August)

Shear back after first major bloom flush. Water during drought. Deadhead for continued bloom. Enjoy pollinator activity. Take cuttings for propagation. Watch for powdery mildew in humid spells.

Fall (September-October)

Stop deadheading. Allow final flowers to set seed for birds. Reduce watering. Plant fall purchases six weeks before freeze. Apply compost top-dressing. Mulch new plantings after ground freezes.

Winter (November-February)

Leave stems standing for winter interest and crown protection. In cold zones, add winter mulch after hard freeze. Plan next year’s additions. Order from mail-order catalogs for spring shipment.

Conclusion

When you decide to buy catmint plant varieties for your garden, you join generations of gardeners who value beauty, resilience, and wildlife appeal in one package. Few perennials give so much for so little. From the classic ‘Walker’s Low’ to the compact ‘Kit Cat’, from the giant ‘Six Hills Giant’ to the delicate ‘Snowflake’, there is a catmint for every sunny spot.

Success starts with smart shopping. Choose healthy plants from reputable sources. Match the variety to your space and design goals. Plant in well-drained soil with full sun. Water faithfully the first season, then step back and let catmint’s deep roots do the work. Shear after bloom for a second show. Divide every few years to keep plants vigorous.

Whether you want a pollinator magnet, a rose companion, a fragrant path edging, or a cat-friendly corner, catmint delivers. Its aromatic foliage and months of blue flowers make it a backbone plant in sustainable, low-maintenance gardens. So go ahead. Buy catmint plant starts this season. Your garden, your pollinators, and possibly your cat will thank you.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between catmint and catnip?

Catnip (Nepeta cataria) is a specific species grown primarily for its effect on cats. It has coarse foliage and white flowers. Catmint refers to ornamental Nepeta hybrids like ‘Walker’s Low’ with showy blue flowers, tidy habits, and lower nepetalactone content.

How far apart should I space catmint plants?

Space according to mature width: twelve to eighteen inches for compact varieties, twenty-four to thirty inches for ‘Walker’s Low’, and thirty-six inches for ‘Six Hills Giant’. Stagger in a triangular pattern for mass plantings.

Why is my catmint flopping over?

Flopping usually results from rich soil, excess water, insufficient sun, or heavy rain on tall varieties. Shear back by half in late May (Chelsea Chop) or after first bloom to encourage sturdier growth.

Is catmint deer resistant?

Yes, catmint is highly deer and rabbit resistant. Its aromatic foliage contains compounds that browsing animals avoid. It is an excellent choice for gardens with high deer pressure.

Can I divide catmint in summer?

Early spring is best for division. Summer division is possible but requires careful watering and shade during establishment. Fall division works in mild climates if done six weeks before ground freeze.

Does catmint spread aggressively like mint?

No. Unlike true mints (Mentha), catmint forms clumps and does not run by underground rhizomes. It may self-seed modestly, but seedlings are easy to remove or transplant. It is well-behaved in garden beds.