Companion Plants Catmint Walker’s Low

Catmint Walker’s Low is a superstar perennial that thrives alongside roses, salvias, and ornamental grasses. This guide reveals the perfect plant partners to maximize blooms, deter pests, and create a low-maintenance garden masterpiece.

If you have ever walked past a garden in early summer and caught a whiff of something minty, sweet, and slightly spicy, you have likely met Catmint Walker’s Low. This plant is a garden workhorse. It asks for very little but gives back months of lavender-blue flowers, silvery foliage, and a buzzing crowd of happy pollinators. But here is the secret: this perennial shines brightest when it has the right friends nearby. Choosing the best companion plants catmint walker’s low loves can turn a nice planting bed into a magazine-worthy border.

I remember the first time I planted Walker’s Low. I stuck it in a corner by itself, thinking it would be a nice little accent. It grew fine, but it looked a bit lonely. The next year, I moved it next to a ‘Knock Out’ rose and planted some ‘Karl Foerster’ feather reed grass behind it. The difference was night and day. The rose hid the catmint’s bare knees, the grass added vertical drama, and the catmint covered the ground with a soft, blooming skirt. That is the power of smart companion planting. It is not just about survival; it is about creating a community where every plant looks better because of its neighbors.

Key Takeaways

• Walker’s Low catmint blooms from late spring to fall with minimal care.
• Best companions include roses, salvias, coneflowers, and ornamental grasses.
• Pollinator magnet attracts bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds all season.
• Drought tolerant once established, perfect for water-wise gardens.
• Deer and rabbit resistant due to aromatic foliage.
• Shear after first bloom for a tidy second flush of flowers.
• Versatile design uses for borders, cottage gardens, and rock gardens.

Quick Answers to Common Questions

What are the best companion plants for Catmint Walker’s Low?

The best companions include roses, salvias, coneflowers, yarrow, ornamental grasses like Karl Foerster, Russian sage, and lamb’s ears. These plants share similar sun and drainage needs while offering contrasting textures and bloom times.

Does Walker’s Low catmint spread aggressively?

No, Walker’s Low is a clump-forming perennial that stays in place. It does not run by rhizomes and is sterile, so it will not self-seed around your garden. It only needs dividing every 3-4 years to maintain vigor.

When should I cut back Catmint Walker’s Low?

Shear plants back by half in late May (the Chelsea Chop) for bushier growth. After the first flush fades in July, cut back to 6-8 inches for a fresh mound and second bloom. Cut dead foliage to the ground in late winter or early spring.

Can Catmint Walker’s Low grow in shade?

No, it requires full sun (6+ hours direct light) to bloom well and stay compact. In shade, it becomes leggy, flops open, flowers poorly, and is prone to powdery mildew. Choose shade-tolerant plants like hostas for low-light areas.

Is Walker’s Low catmint deer resistant?

Yes, the aromatic, minty foliage is highly deer and rabbit resistant. They typically avoid browsing it, making it an excellent choice for gardens with high deer pressure. It also deters some insect pests.

Why Walker’s Low Deserves a Spot in Your Garden

Award-Winning Performance

There is a reason this specific variety, Nepeta x faassenii ‘Walker’s Low’, won the Perennial Plant of the Year award back in 2007. It is not a fussy diva. It is a tough, reliable performer that handles heat, humidity, and poor soil like a champ. Unlike some catmints that flop open in the center by July, Walker’s Low keeps a relatively tidy, mounding habit. It typically reaches 24 to 30 inches tall and wide, making it a perfect mid-border anchor.

The Longest Blooming Season

One of the biggest selling points is the bloom time. Most perennials give you two or three weeks of glory. Walker’s Low starts in late spring and, with a little deadheading or shearing, keeps pumping out flowers until hard frost. That is four to five months of color. The flowers are small, tubular, and a lovely soft lavender-blue. They sit on spikes above the aromatic, gray-green foliage. When the wind blows, the whole plant shimmers.

A Pollinator Powerhouse

If you want to support bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds, this is a must-have plant. The nectar-rich flowers are a favorite stop for bumblebees and honeybees. I often see three or four bees working a single plant at once. It is a wonderful feeling to sit on the patio and hear the garden humming with life. Because it blooms so long, it bridges the gap between spring bulbs and late-summer asters, providing a consistent food source when other plants are between flushes.

Understanding Companion Planting Basics

What Makes a Good Partner?

Companion planting is simply the art of placing plants together that benefit each other. Sometimes the benefit is visual. Sometimes it is ecological. Often, it is both. When looking for companion plants catmint walker’s low will thrive beside, we look for three main things: similar growing conditions, complementary bloom times or foliage textures, and ecological benefits like pest control or pollinator support.

Matching Cultural Needs

Walker’s Low loves full sun. It needs at least six hours of direct light to bloom heavily and stay compact. It prefers well-drained soil. It hates wet feet, especially in winter. Once established, it is very drought tolerant. So, the best companions are other sun-loving, well-drained soil plants. Do not pair it with hostas or ferns that want shade and moisture. That is a recipe for disappointment.

Design Principles: Thriller, Filler, Spiller

In container design, we talk about thriller, filler, and spiller. In garden borders, we use similar logic. You need vertical elements (thrillers), mounding mass (fillers), and ground-hugging spreaders (spillers). Walker’s Low is a classic filler. It forms a broad, soft mound. It needs a thriller behind it or beside it for height, and perhaps a spiller at its feet to soften the edge of the bed.

Top Flowering Companion Plants for Catmint Walker’s Low

Roses: The Classic Romance

This is the most famous pairing for a reason. Roses and catmint are the peanut butter and jelly of the perennial world. The catmint’s soft, billowy mounds hide the often bare, thorny canes at the base of rose bushes. The lavender-blue flowers look stunning against almost any rose color—deep red, soft pink, creamy white, or bright yellow. Both plants love full sun and good drainage. The catmint’s aromatic foliage may even help deter aphids and Japanese beetles from the roses, though it is not a guaranteed force field.

Pro Tip: Plant the catmint about 18 inches from the base of the rose so you can still access the rose for pruning and the catmint has room to spread.

Salvias: Color Echoes and Vertical Spikes

Salvias (ornamental sages) are fantastic partners. They share the exact same cultural needs: sun, heat, and drainage. Where Walker’s Low is a soft mound, salvias provide strong vertical spikes. This contrast in form creates visual excitement. Try Salvia nemorosa ‘Caradonna’ with its dark purple stems and violet-blue flowers. The color echoes the catmint perfectly but the shape is totally different. Or try ‘May Night’ for a deeper indigo punch. Both bloom at the same time in early summer and both rebloom if sheared back.

Coneflowers (Echinacea): The Late-Summer Bridge

Coneflowers take the baton from catmint in mid-to-late summer. While Walker’s Low starts early, coneflowers hit their stride in July and August. The large, daisy-like flowers with prominent cones add a bold, coarse texture that contrasts beautifully with the fine, misty texture of catmint. Purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea) is the classic choice, but the new hybrids in orange, yellow, red, and white offer endless color combos. Goldfinches love the seed heads in fall, adding winter interest and wildlife value.

Yarrow (Achillea): Flat-Topped Architecture

Yarrow brings a completely different flower shape to the party: flat, plate-like clusters (corymbs). This horizontal element balances the vertical spikes of salvia and the rounded mounds of catmint. Achillea ‘Moonshine’ offers soft yellow flowers that glow against the blue catmint. ‘Paprika’ or ‘Red Velvet’ add hot, spicy tones. Yarrow is also incredibly tough, drought-tolerant, and deer-resistant. It spreads slowly by rhizomes, filling in gaps nicely.

Bee Balm (Monarda): The Hummingbird Favorite

Bee balm adds a wild, shaggy charm with its messy, mop-top flowers in red, pink, purple, or white. It blooms in mid-summer, overlapping with the catmint’s second flush. Hummingbirds fight over bee balm. It prefers a bit more moisture than catmint, so plant it in a slightly lower spot or where the hose reaches easier. Look for mildew-resistant cultivars like ‘Jacob Cline’ (red) or ‘Raspberry Wine’ (purple-red) to keep foliage clean.

Foliage and Texture Partners: Grasses and Shrubs

Ornamental Grasses: Movement and Winter Structure

Grasses are the ultimate companion for Walker’s Low because they provide what catmint lacks: strong vertical lines and winter presence. Catmint dies back to the ground in winter (or becomes a messy tangle). Grasses stand tall all winter, catching frost and snow. Calamagrostis x acutiflora ‘Karl Foerster’ (Feather Reed Grass) is the gold standard. It shoots up early, stays strictly upright, and turns a lovely wheat color. Panicum virgatum ‘Northwind’ (Switchgrass) is another stiff, columnar beauty. For a softer, fountain shape, try Pennisetum alopecuroides ‘Hameln’ (Dwarf Fountain Grass).

Russian Sage (Perovskia): The Lavender Haze

Russian Sage is practically a cousin to catmint. Both are in the mint family (Lamiaceae). Both have silvery, aromatic foliage and lavender-blue flowers. Both love heat and hate wet soil. Planting them together creates a stunning “lavender haze” effect in the hot summer garden. Russian Sage is taller (3-4 feet) and airier, creating a see-through screen. Walker’s Low fills the bottom. It is a monochromatic dream. Just give Russian Sage space; it can spread aggressively in some climates.

Shrub Roses and Small Shrubs: The Woody Backbone

Small deciduous shrubs provide permanent structure. Think Spiraea ‘Double Play Gold’ or ‘Magic Carpet’ for gold and lime foliage that pops against the catmint’s gray-green. Physocarpus (Ninebark) varieties like ‘Tiny Wine’ or ‘Little Devil’ offer dark purple foliage and pink-white flowers. Dwarf butterfly bushes (Buddleia ‘Lo & Behold’ series) work well, too, though check invasiveness in your area. The shrub stays; the catmint dances around its feet.

Lamb’s Ears (Stachys byzantina): The Silver Carpet

For a ground-hugging partner, you cannot beat Lamb’s Ears. The large, velvety, silver leaves form a dense mat. Walker’s Low grows up through it. The texture contrast is incredible: soft fuzz versus fine, aromatic leaves. Both are drought-tolerant sun lovers. Lamb’s Ears can melt out in humid summers, so give it sharp drainage. The combination looks sophisticated and feels wonderful to touch.

Designing Stunning Combinations: Recipes for Success

The “Classic Cottage” Border

This recipe evokes an English cottage garden but with much less work. Plant a backdrop of ‘Karl Foerster’ grass. In front of that, plant a drift of three to five Walker’s Low catmints. In front of the catmint, plant a drift of ‘Moonshine’ Yarrow and purple Coneflowers. Edge the front with Lamb’s Ears or hardy Geranium ‘Rozanne’. The bloom sequence goes: Grass plumes (early summer) -> Catmint/Yarrow (early-mid summer) -> Coneflowers (mid-late summer) -> Grass seed heads (fall/winter). It works in zones 4-8.

The “Hot & Dry” Hellstrip Planting

That nasty strip between the sidewalk and the street? This combo laughs at it. Use Russian Sage as the tall anchor (or skip it if height is restricted). Mass Walker’s Low in the middle. Plant ‘Angelina’ Sedum (Sedum rupestre ‘Angelina’) at the front edge. Its needle-like, chartreuse foliage turns orange in cold weather. Add some ‘Blue Fescue’ grass (Festuca glauca) for spiky blue tufts. Zero irrigation needed once established. Pure toughness.

The “Pollinator Paradise” Island Bed

Create a 6-foot circle island bed in the middle of the lawn. Center: A small ornamental tree like a Crabapple or Serviceberry (for spring flowers and bird fruit). Middle ring: Three ‘Miss Kim’ Lilacs or Dwarf Butterfly Bushes. Outer ring: A thick border of Walker’s Low catmint (5-7 plants). Pockets between catmint: Bee Balm, Salvia ‘May Night’, Agastache ‘Blue Fortune’, and Allium ‘Millenium’. This bed will buzz from April to October. It feeds bees, butterflies, hummingbirds, and songbirds.

The “Rose Underplanting” Scheme

If you have a row of shrub roses or hybrid teas, plant Walker’s Low in a continuous ribbon along the front, spaced 18-24 inches apart. Interplant with Allium ‘Globemaster’ or ‘Purple Sensation’ bulbs in the fall. The alliums bloom in late spring (hiding dying bulb foliage with catmint leaves), then the catmint and roses take over for summer. Add some white ‘David’ Phlox behind the roses for height and fragrance. It is a high-impact, classic look.

Planting and Care Tips for a Thriving Partnership

Soil Preparation is Key

All these companions share one demand: drainage. If you have heavy clay, you must amend it. Dig in compost, grit, or expanded shale. Do not just dig a hole in clay and plop the plant in; you create a bathtub that holds water and rots roots. Raise the bed slightly if possible. A berm or raised bed solves drainage issues instantly and looks great.

Spacing for Air Flow

It is tempting to plant things close for instant impact. Resist the urge. Walker’s Low gets 2.5 feet wide. Salvias get 1.5-2 feet wide. Coneflowers need 18 inches. Crowding leads to powdery mildew, fungal leaf spots, and weak stems. Space plants based on their mature width. Mulch the gaps with shredded leaves or pine bark while they fill in. Patience pays off.

The “Chelsea Chop” and Shearing

This is the maintenance secret for Walker’s Low and many companions (Salvia, Nepeta, Geranium). In late May (around the Chelsea Flower Show in the UK, hence the name), shear the plant back by one-third to one-half. This delays flowering slightly but produces a bushier plants that don’t flop, and often more total flowers. After the first big flush fades in July, shear the whole plant back to 6-8 inches. Water well. You get a fresh mound of foliage and a second heavy bloom in 3-4 weeks.

Dividing to Renew Vigor

Every 3-4 years, the center of Walker’s Low may die out, leaving a donut shape. In early spring, dig up the clump. Use a sharp spade or knife to cut it into sections, each with roots and shoots. Discard the woody center. Replant the vigorous outer pieces. Do this for Yarrow, Bee Balm, and Grasses too. It keeps everyone young and blooming hard. Share the extras with neighbors!

Watering Wisdom

Water deeply but infrequently to encourage deep roots. New plants need regular water for the first season. After that, these plants prefer to dry out between rains. Overwatering causes floppy growth and root rot. A soaker hose or drip irrigation is best; it keeps water off foliage, reducing disease. Mulch 2 inches deep to conserve moisture and suppress weeds.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Planting in Shade

This is the number one killer. “It gets morning sun!” is not full sun. These plants need 6+ hours of direct, baking sun. In shade, Walker’s Low gets leggy, flops, blooms sparsely, and gets powdery mildew. The companions will suffer equally. If you have shade, choose different plants: Hostas, Ferns, Heucheras, Brunnera. Save the catmint for the sunny spot.

Ignoring Winter Wet

Walker’s Low and its friends (especially Russian Sage, Lavender, Salvia) hate wet winter soil more than cold. In zones 5 and colder, heavy clay that stays soggy in winter will kill them. The crowns rot. If you cannot improve drainage, plant them in raised beds or large containers. In containers, use a gritty cactus mix and move pots to an unheated garage in zone 4/5 winters.

Letting Them Go to Seed Unchecked

Some companions self-sow aggressively. Yarrow spreads by runners and seed. Bee Balm spreads by runners. Coneflowers self-sow (though birds eat most seeds). Catmint ‘Walker’s Low’ is sterile—it does not set viable seed. That is a huge plus! But watch the others. Deadhead spent flowers if you don’t want volunteers everywhere. Or let them naturalize in a meadow area.

Fertilizing Too Much

Rich soil makes weak plants. These are prairie and Mediterranean natives. They thrive in lean soil. High nitrogen fertilizer produces lush, soft growth that flops and attracts aphids. Skip the fertilizer. A top-dressing of compost in spring is plenty. If you must feed, use a slow-release, low-nitrogen organic fertilizer once in early spring.

Seasonal Interest: A Year-Round Show

Spring Awakening

Early spring brings the neat, gray-green mounds of catmint foliage. It looks fresh and tidy. This is when the Allium bulbs you planted pop up through it. The purple globes float above the minty leaves. Salvias send up their first flower spikes. Grasses are just waking up, adding fine texture.

Summer Crescendo

June is the peak. Catmint is a cloud of blue. Roses are in full swing. Salvias spike. Yarrow plates hold court. Bees are drunk on nectar. The garden is loud with life. This is the payoff for all your planning. Cut armloads for bouquets; the plants love it.

Second Wind (Late Summer)

After the July shear, catmint rebounds fast. By late August, it is blooming again. Coneflowers are peaking. Russian Sage is a purple haze. Grasses send up their dramatic plumes. Sedums begin to turn pink. The color palette shifts from pastel to richer, deeper tones.

Autumn Glory

Frost hits. Catmint foliage may turn a soft yellow. Grass plumes turn wheat, gold, orange. Coneflower seed heads stand like dark buttons, feeding goldfinches. Sedum ‘Autumn Joy’ turns deep rust. The structure remains. Do not cut back yet.

Winter Architecture

Snow falls. The grasses catch it, sculptural and beautiful. Catmint is cut back (or left for beneficial insects to overwinter in the hollow stems). Shrub silhouettes show their form. The garden has “bones.” This is why we include grasses and shrubs. They carry the show when the flowers are gone.

Buying Guide: Choosing Healthy Plants

What to Look for at the Nursery

When shopping for Walker’s Low or its companions, inspect the roots. Gently tip the pot. Roots should be white and firm, circling the bottom slightly but not a solid mat. Avoid plants with brown, mushy roots. Check the crown (where stems meet roots). It should be firm, not rotting. Look for compact growth, not tall, leggy stems stretching for light. A few flowers are okay, but buds are better—they will bloom in your garden, not the nursery.

Bare Root vs. Container

Grasses, Daylilies, Hostas, and Peonies are often sold bare-root in spring. They are cheaper and establish fast if planted early. Catmint, Salvia, Russian Sage, and shrubs are usually container-grown. Both work. Bare root must be planted immediately upon arrival. Soak roots for an hour before planting. Container plants can wait a week or two if watered.

Mail Order Tips

Great mail-order nurseries (like Bluestone Perennials, White Flower Farm, High Country Gardens) ship at the right planting time for your zone. Open the box immediately. Water if dry. Plant within 24 hours. If you must hold them, keep them in a shady, protected spot. Reputable nurseries guarantee their plants. Take photos on arrival if there is an issue.

Frequently Asked Design Questions

Can I grow Walker’s Low in a container?

Absolutely. It looks fabulous spilling over the edge of a large pot (18+ inches wide). Pair it with a thriller like a dwarf grass or a small shrub in the center, and a spiller like calibrachoa or sweet potato vine at the rim. Use a gritty potting mix (add perlite or pumice). Water when the top inch is dry. Fertilize lightly monthly. In zone 5 or colder, the pot needs winter protection (garage, shed, or buried in mulch) because roots freeze above ground.

Is Walker’s Low invasive?

No. Unlike some mints that run underground, Walker’s Low is a clump-former. It stays where you put it. It does not spread by runners. It is also sterile, so it does not self-seed around the garden. It is a very well-behaved citizen. You only need to divide it every few years to keep the clump vigorous.

Does catmint attract cats?

Yes, but differently than catnip (Nepeta cataria). Catnip drives cats wild; they eat it, roll on it, destroy it. Walker’s Low contains much less nepetalactone (the active compound). Cats may rub on it or nap in it, but they rarely eat it to the ground. If neighborhood cats are a problem, plant a sacrificial patch of real catnip elsewhere to distract them.

What if my catmint flops open in the center?

This usually means too much shade, too much water/fertilizer, or it needs dividing. The “Chelsea Chop” in late May prevents this by creating a denser, shorter plant with stronger stems. If it flops in July, shear it hard to the ground, water, and wait for the fresh mound. It will look better than ever.

Can I plant Walker’s Low near vegetables?

Yes! It is a great border for the veggie garden. The flowers bring pollinators to your squash, cucumbers, and tomatoes. The aromatic foliage may deter some pests (flea beetles, aphids, squash bugs). Plant it at the corners of raised beds or along the fence line. Just don’t let it shade your sun-loving veggies.

Conclusion: Build Your Plant Community

Gardening is not about isolated specimens; it is about communities. When you choose the right companion plants catmint walker’s low thrives with, you create a living tapestry that is greater than the sum of its parts. You get more flowers, fewer pests, less maintenance, and a garden that looks professional without a landscape crew.

Start small. Pick one combination from this guide that speaks to you. Maybe it is the Rose & Catmint classic. Maybe it is the Hellstrip survivors. Plant them this spring. Watch them interact. Notice the bees. Enjoy the scent when you brush past. Next year, add another combo. Before you know it, you have a garden that blooms from April to November, feeds wildlife, and makes the neighbors slow down on their evening walks.

Walker’s Low is the perfect gateway plant. It is forgiving, beautiful, and plays well with others. Give it the friends it deserves, and it will reward you for years. Happy planting!

Frequently Asked Questions

How tall and wide does Catmint Walker’s Low get?

Walker’s Low typically reaches 24 to 30 inches tall and wide at maturity. It forms a neat, mounding habit that works perfectly in the middle of a perennial border or as a low hedge along a pathway.

What is the difference between catmint and catnip?

Catmint (Nepeta x faassenii) is an ornamental perennial grown for flowers and foliage. Catnip (Nepeta cataria) is a weedy herb grown for cats. Catmint has showy lavender-blue flowers and sterile seeds; catnip has white flowers and spreads aggressively by seed.

Why is my catmint flopping open in the middle?

Flopping is usually caused by too much shade, over-fertilizing, overwatering, or an old clump that needs dividing. Perform the Chelsea Chop in late May and ensure full sun and lean soil to keep plants upright.

Can I divide Walker’s Low in the fall?

Spring is the best time to divide catmint, just as new growth emerges. Fall division can work in mild climates (zones 6+), but the plants need 6-8 weeks to establish roots before the ground freezes to prevent heaving.

Does Walker’s Low attract bees and butterflies?

Yes, it is a top-tier pollinator plant. The nectar-rich flowers attract honeybees, bumblebees, native bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds from late spring through fall. It provides a critical long-season food source.

What soil amendments does catmint need?

Catmint thrives in lean, well-drained soil. Amend heavy clay with compost and coarse sand, grit, or expanded shale to improve drainage. Avoid rich compost or manure, which causes floppy growth. A gravel mulch is better than wood chips.