Catmints English Garden Plants

Catmints (Nepeta) are essential English garden plants that offer months of lavender-blue blooms, aromatic foliage, and incredible pollinator appeal. These tough, drought-tolerant perennials thrive in sunny borders and cottage gardens with minimal care.

Walk through any classic English garden in June and you’ll almost certainly encounter drifts of lavender-blue flowers swaying above mounds of gray-green foliage. That’s catmint, or Nepeta, one of the most beloved and reliable perennials in the British gardening tradition. These plants have earned their place in borders from the Cotswolds to cottage gardens across the countryside, and for good reason. They ask for little, give abundantly, and bring a relaxed, romantic quality that defines the English garden aesthetic.

But catmints are more than just pretty faces. They’re workhorses that solve real garden problems: dry slopes, poor soil, deer pressure, and the need for long-season color. Whether you’re designing a new border, refreshing an tired bed, or simply want a plant that looks good with almost everything, catmints deserve a spot in your garden. Let’s explore everything you need to know about growing these exceptional English garden plants.

Key Takeaways

• Catmints bloom from late spring to fall: With deadheading, varieties like ‘Walker’s Low’ flower continuously for 5-6 months.
• They thrive in poor, well-drained soil: Rich soil causes floppy growth; lean conditions produce compact, floriferous plants.
• Bees and butterflies love them: Catmints are top-tier pollinator magnets, supporting biodiversity all season long.
• Cats are attracted to the foliage: The compound nepetalactone triggers euphoric responses in many felines.
• Shear after first flush for rebloom: Cutting back by half in midsummer encourages a second heavy flowering period.
• Perfect for edging and underplanting roses: Their mounding habit hides bare rose canes while complementing blooms.
• Divide every 3-4 years to maintain vigor: Spring division prevents center die-out and rejuvenates older clumps.

Quick Answers to Common Questions

What is the difference between catmint and catnip?

Catmint (Nepeta x faassenii and other ornamental species) is grown for its flowers and garden performance. Catnip (Nepeta cataria) is a weedy species with much higher nepetalactone content that strongly attracts cats. Ornamental catmints are less appealing to cats.

When should I cut back catmint?

Shear back by half after the first flush fades in late June to early July for a second bloom. Cut back old growth to 5-10 cm in late February to early March before new shoots emerge.

Does catmint spread aggressively?

Catmints are clump-forming perennials that slowly expand outward. They don’t run like mint (Mentha). Some self-seed modestly. Divide every 3-4 years to control size and maintain vigor.

Can catmint grow in shade?

Catmint prefers full sun (6+ hours). It tolerates light shade (4-5 hours) but flowers less and grows looser. In deep shade, it declines. For shadier spots, consider Nepeta govaniana (yellow flowers) which tolerates more shade.

Why is my catmint flopping open in the middle?

This is usually caused by rich soil, too much water, too much shade, or age. Fix by: not feeding, reducing water, ensuring full sun, doing the Chelsea Chop in late May, and dividing old clumps in spring.

Understanding Catmints: Botany and Background

What Exactly Is Catmint?

Catmint belongs to the genus Nepeta, a member of the mint family (Lamiaceae). The genus includes roughly 250 species native to Europe, Asia, and Africa, though only a handful are commonly cultivated in gardens. Despite the name, catmint is not the same as catnip (Nepeta cataria), though they’re close relatives. Catnip is the one that sends cats into frenzies; ornamental catmints contain lower concentrations of the active compound nepetalactone, so they’re less likely to attract neighborhood felines — though some cats still enjoy rolling in them.

The species most often grown in English gardens are Nepeta x faassenii (a hybrid between N. racemosa and N. nepetella), Nepeta racemosa, and Nepeta sibirica. These form low, spreading mounds of aromatic, gray-green leaves topped with spikes of two-lipped flowers in shades of lavender, blue, violet, and occasionally white or pink. The foliage releases a pleasant, minty scent when brushed or crushed, adding a sensory dimension to garden paths and seating areas.

A Brief History in English Gardens

Catmints have been cultivated in British gardens since at least the 16th century. John Gerard, the famous herbalist, mentioned them in his 1597 Herball, noting their medicinal uses for “windiness of the stomach” and as a tea for colds. But it was the great garden designers of the early 20th century — Gertrude Jekyll, Vita Sackville-West, and later Beth Chatto — who elevated catmint to star status in the perennial border.

Jekyll famously used Nepeta x faassenii to underplant roses at Munstead Wood, appreciating how its soft mounds concealed the bare legs of rose bushes while providing a color echo for lavender and blue-flowered companions. Sackville-West planted it in the famous Purple Border at Sissinghurst, where its long flowering season bridged the gap between spring bulbs and summer perennials. Today, catmint remains a staple in National Trust gardens, RHS show gardens, and countless private gardens across the UK.

Choosing the Right Catmint for Your Garden

Top Varieties for English Garden Style

Not all catmints are created equal. Some are compact edgers, others are bold specimen plants. Here are the standout varieties that have proven themselves in English garden conditions:

• ‘Walker’s Low’ — Despite the name, this isn’t particularly low (60-75 cm tall). It’s the gold standard: Perennial Plant of the Year 2007, incredibly floriferous, and blooms from May to September with deadheading. The flowers are a rich lavender-blue.
• ‘Six Hills Giant’ — The classic tall catmint (90-120 cm), vigorous and imposing. Excellent for the middle of large borders. Can flop in rich soil; benefits from the “Chelsea Chop” in late May.
• ‘Purrsian Blue’ — A newer, compact introduction (35-45 cm) with a tidy, uniform habit. Perfect for edging, containers, and small gardens. Intense blue flowers.
• ‘Cat’s Meow’ — Mid-height (45-60 cm), very dense habit, excellent rebloom. A great all-rounder.
• ‘Junior Walker’ — A dwarf sport of ‘Walker’s Low’ (30-40 cm). Same long bloom season in a smaller package.
• Nepeta sibirica ‘Souvenir d’Andre Chaudron’ — Distinctive larger, darker blue flowers on upright stems (60-90 cm). Blooms earlier than most, in late spring.
• ‘White Wonder’ — Pure white flowers on compact plants. Lovely for moon gardens or cooling down hot color schemes.
• ‘Pink Cat’ — Soft pink flowers, a refreshing change from the usual blue palette. About 45 cm tall.

Matching Catmint to Your Garden Conditions

Most catmints share the same basic preferences: full sun, well-drained soil, and moderate to low fertility. But subtle differences can guide your choice:

• Heavy clay soil: Choose ‘Walker’s Low’ or ‘Cat’s Meow’ — they tolerate heavier soils better than ‘Six Hills Giant’.
• Very dry, sandy soil: All catmints handle drought once established, but Nepeta sibirica varieties are especially tough.
• Exposed, windy sites: Lower varieties like ‘Purrsian Blue’ and ‘Junior Walker’ won’t blow over.
• Partial shade: Catmints prefer full sun but will tolerate light shade (4-5 hours sun). Expect fewer flowers and looser habit.
• Containers: Compact varieties only — ‘Purrsian Blue’, ‘Junior Walker’, ‘Pink Cat’. Use gritty, free-draining compost.

Planting and Establishing Catmints

When to Plant

The ideal planting times for catmints in the UK are spring (March to May) and early autumn (September to October). Spring planting gives roots time to establish before summer heat; autumn planting takes advantage of warm soil and autumn rains. Avoid planting in summer heat or winter wet. If you must plant in summer, water diligently and provide temporary shade.

Soil Preparation

Here’s the counterintuitive truth: don’t enrich the soil. Catmints perform best in lean, gritty, well-drained conditions. Rich soil produces lush, floppy growth that collapses after rain and flowers poorly. If your soil is heavy clay, incorporate plenty of horticultural grit or sharp sand (up to 50% by volume) to improve drainage. On reasonably good loam, no amendment is needed — just loosen the planting area.

If your soil is extremely sandy and dry, a modest amount of well-rotted compost helps establishment, but go easy. The goal is a planting hole that drains freely. Test by filling with water; it should drain within an hour.

Spacing and Planting Technique

Space plants according to their mature spread:

• Compact varieties (‘Purrsian Blue’, ‘Junior Walker’): 30-40 cm apart
• Mid-size (‘Walker’s Low’, ‘Cat’s Meow’): 45-60 cm apart
• Large (‘Six Hills Giant’, N. sibirica): 75-90 cm apart

Plant at the same depth as in the pot. Water in well, then mulch with 2-3 cm of gravel, grit, or coarse bark — not compost or manure. Gravel mulch keeps the crown dry (preventing winter rot) and reflects light into the plant. Avoid piling mulch against the stems.

The Critical Establishment Period

For the first 4-6 weeks, water regularly during dry spells — aim for consistently moist but not soggy soil. Once you see new growth, taper off watering. Established catmints are remarkably drought-tolerant. Overwatering is far more dangerous than underwatering.

Ongoing Care: The Secrets to Long-Lived, Floriferous Plants

The Chelsea Chop: Timing and Technique

If you grow taller catmints like ‘Six Hills Giant’ or find your ‘Walker’s Low’ getting leggy, the Chelsea Chop is transformative. Done in late May (around the time of the RHS Chelsea Flower Show), this involves cutting the plant back by one-third to one-half. Use shears or secateurs to trim the whole clump into a neat mound.

Benefits of the Chelsea Chop:

• Produces shorter, sturdier stems that don’t flop
• Delays flowering by 2-3 weeks (useful for succession)
• Increases branching and flower count
• Creates a neater habit

You can also chop only half the clump, or chop front plants but leave back ones, to stagger the bloom period. Experiment — catmints are forgiving.

Deadheading for Continuous Bloom

This is the single most important maintenance task for long-season flowers. As the first flush fades (usually late June to early July), shear the entire plant back by half, removing spent flower spikes and some foliage. Water well and apply a light feed of liquid seaweed or balanced fertilizer. Within 2-3 weeks, a fresh mound of foliage appears, followed by a second heavy bloom that continues into autumn.

If you can’t bear to shear the whole plant, at least remove individual spent spikes. But the hard shear gives better results and a tidier plant.

Feeding: Less Is More

Established catmints in decent soil need no fertilizer. On very poor sand, a single application of slow-release balanced fertilizer in spring is plenty. Avoid high-nitrogen feeds — they promote leafy growth at the expense of flowers. A spring mulch of well-rotted leaf mold (not manure) is beneficial on any soil type.

Watering Established Plants

Once established (after the first full season), catmints rarely need supplemental water except in extreme drought. Their deep taproots access moisture far below the surface. Overwatering leads to root rot, fungal diseases, and floppy growth. In containers, water when the top 3-4 cm of compost is dry.

Dividing to Maintain Vigor

Every 3-4 years, the center of a catmint clump may die out, leaving a ring of growth. This signals it’s time to divide. Early spring (March-April) is best, just as new growth emerges. Dig the whole clump, shake off soil, and pull or cut into sections with healthy roots and shoots. Discard the woody center. Replant vigorous outer sections at the same depth, water well, and treat as new plants.

Division also gives you free plants to expand your drifts or share with friends — a time-honored English garden tradition.

Designing with Catmints in the English Garden

Classic Companions: The Jekyll Legacy

Gertrude Jekyll’s planting combinations remain the gold standard for catmint pairings. Her genius lay in understanding color harmonies, seasonal succession, and plant architecture. Here are her classic combos, updated for modern gardens:

• Catmint + Roses: The quintessential pairing. Plant catmint 45-60 cm from rose bases to hide bare canes. Blue catmint cools hot pink and red roses; white catmint (‘White Wonder’) glows beside cream and apricot roses. The catmint’s first flush coincides with June roses; the second flush carries color through summer.
• Catmint + Lavender: Both love the same conditions. Plant alternating drifts for a sea of blue-lavender in June. Lavender’s stronger structure contrasts with catmint’s softness.
• Catmint + Hardy Geraniums: Geranium ‘Rozanne’ or G. ‘Johnson’s Blue’ weave through catmint mounds, extending the blue theme at ground level.
• Catmint + Salvia nemorosa: Upright salvia spikes punctuate catmint’s mounds. ‘Caradonna’ (dark stems, violet flowers) is especially striking.
• Catmint + Alchemilla mollis (Lady’s Mantle): The acid-green flowers of lady’s mantle froth over catmint’s blue — a classic Jekyll color contrast.

Creating Drifts and Repetition

English garden style relies on repetition and generous drifts, not dotting single plants. Plant catmints in groups of 3, 5, or 7 (odd numbers look more natural). Repeat the same variety at intervals along a border to lead the eye. For a long border, use 5-7 plants of ‘Walker’s Low’ every 3-4 meters. The rhythm creates cohesion.

Edging and Path Softening

Compact catmints excel at softening hard edges. Plant ‘Purrsian Blue’ or ‘Junior Walker’ along paths, where brushing against them releases fragrance. They spill gracefully over paving edges without becoming a tripping hazard. For a fragrant path, alternate with creeping thyme and dwarf lavender.

Underplanting Shrubs and Trees

Catmints thrive in the dry shade at the base of deciduous shrubs and trees (once established). They carpet the ground with foliage and flowers before the canopy leafs out fully. Good partners: Philadelphus (mock orange), Deutzia, Weigela, and roses. Avoid dense evergreen shade.

Gravel Gardens and Mediterranean Schemes

Beth Chatto’s famous gravel garden showcases catmints alongside Euphorbia characias, Verbena bonariensis, Stachys byzantina (lamb’s ears), and ornamental grasses. The silver-gray foliage of catmint harmonizes with other drought-tolerant plants. In this context, don’t deadhead — let seedheads persist for winter structure and self-seeding.

Container Combinations

In pots, catmints play well with other sun-lovers. Try:

• ‘Purrsian Blue’ + white Gaura lindheimeri + silver Helichrysum
• ‘Pink Cat’ + blue Salvia farinacea + trailing Lobelia
• ‘Junior Walker’ + dwarf Agapanthus + Sedum ‘Angelina’

Use a gritty, loam-based compost (John Innes No. 2 with 30% added grit). Water and feed more freely than in-ground plants.

Catmints Through the Seasons

Spring: Emergence and Early Growth

In March-April, gray-green shoots push through the soil. This is the time to divide if needed, and to apply a light mulch of leaf mold. Watch for slugs on tender new growth — though catmints are rarely badly damaged. By late April, plants form neat mounds. In mild areas, ‘Souvenir d’Andre Chaudron’ may bloom by late May.

Early Summer: The First Grand Flush

June is catmint’s glory month. Mounds are smothered in flower spikes, buzzing with bees. This is peak Chelsea Chop time for taller varieties. Enjoy the show! Cut a few stems for indoor arrangements — they last 5-7 days in water.

Midsummer: The Shear and Regrowth

Late June to early July: first flush fades. Shear hard, water, feed lightly. The plant looks brutalized for a week, then fresh foliage erupts. This is the moment many gardeners lose heart — don’t! Trust the process.

Late Summer to Autumn: The Encore

August through October brings the second flush, often heavier than the first. Cooler temperatures intensify flower color. Pollinators flock to the late-season nectar. This is catmint’s gift: color when many perennials have finished.

Winter: Structure and Protection

Don’t cut back in autumn. The spent foliage and stems protect the crown from winter wet and frost. The seedheads catch frost beautifully. In late February to early March, cut back to 5-10 cm above ground before new growth starts. This is also the moment to assess if division is needed.

Troubleshooting Common Catmint Problems

Floppy, Leggy Growth

Cause: Too much shade, rich soil, overwatering, or lack of Chelsea Chop. Fix: Move to full sun, stop feeding, reduce watering, shear in late May.

Center Die-Out (The “Donut” Effect)

Cause: Age, congestion, poor drainage. Fix: Divide in spring. Improve drainage with grit. Replant vigorous outer sections.

Powdery Mildew

Cause: Humid conditions, poor air circulation, overhead watering. Fix: Space plants properly. Water at base. Remove affected leaves. ‘Walker’s Low’ and newer cultivars have good resistance.

Root Rot / Winter Death

Cause: Wet, heavy soil over winter. Fix: Improve drainage before planting. Use gravel mulch. Plant on slight mounds in clay. Avoid autumn mulching with moisture-retentive materials.

Poor Flowering

Cause: Too much shade, too much nitrogen, plant needs division. Fix: Ensure 6+ hours sun. Stop feeding. Divide old clumps.

Cat Damage

Cause: Neighborhood cats rolling, chewing, or using as litter. Fix: Insert short stakes or twiggy branches through the clump to deter lounging. Sprinkle citrus peel or commercial cat deterrent. Most cats prefer catnip (N. cataria) over ornamental catmints.

Propagating Catmints: More Plants for Free

Division (Easiest, Most Reliable)

As described above, spring division yields instant, true-to-type plants. Each division should have 3-5 shoots and a good root mass. Pot up or plant directly.

Softwood Cuttings

In late spring to early summer, take 8-10 cm cuttings from non-flowering shoots. Remove lower leaves, dip in rooting hormone (optional), insert into gritty compost. Cover with a plastic bag or propagator lid. Root in 3-4 weeks. Pot on and overwinter in a cold frame.

Seed

Species catmints come true from seed; hybrids don’t. Collect seed in autumn, sow in spring on surface of gritty compost. Light aids germination. Prick out seedlings, grow on, plant out in autumn. Fun for experimentation, but division is faster for cultivars.

Catmints for Wildlife: A Pollinator Powerhouse

If you want a garden alive with buzzing and fluttering, catmints are non-negotiable. Their long flowering season, accessible nectar, and pollen-rich flowers make them one of the single best perennials for pollinators. Here’s who visits:

• Bumblebees: Especially long-tongued species like Bombus hortorum and B. pascuorum. They work the flowers methodically all day.
• Honeybees: Gather both nectar and pollen. Catmint honey is reportedly delicious.
• Solitary bees: Many species, including leafcutter bees and mason bees.
• Butterflies: Small tortoiseshell, peacock, red admiral, painted lady, and various skippers.
• Hoverflies: Important pollinators whose larvae eat aphids.
• Moths: Visit at dusk; catmint is a larval food plant for some species.

To maximize wildlife value, avoid pesticides, leave some stems uncut for overwintering insects, and plant in sunny, sheltered spots where pollinators prefer to forage. A drift of catmint in full sun on a calm day is a pollinator magnet.

Catmints Beyond the Border: Creative Uses

Cut Flowers

Catmint stems last well in water (5-7 days). Cut when half the flowers on a spike are open. Strip lower leaves. They add a relaxed, meadowy quality to arrangements. Combine with roses, alchemilla, and grasses for a classic English posy.

Dried Flowers

Harvest stems at peak bloom, hang upside down in a dark, airy place. The flowers retain their blue color well. Use in wreaths, potpourri, or winter arrangements.

Herbal Uses

While not as potent as catnip, catmint leaves make a pleasant, mildly sedative tea. Steep a few fresh leaves in hot water for 5 minutes. Traditionally used for digestion, colds, and anxiety. The flowers are edible — scatter in salads or freeze in ice cubes for summer drinks.

Companion Planting in the Vegetable Garden

Catmint’s strong scent confuses pests. Plant near brassicas to deter cabbage white butterflies, near carrots to deter carrot fly, near roses to deter aphids. The flowers attract beneficial insects that prey on vegetable pests. Just keep it contained — catmint can spread.

Conclusion: Why Every English Garden Needs Catmint

After decades of gardening, I’ve come to see catmint not just as a plant, but as a design tool, a problem-solver, and a reliable friend. Few perennials offer so much for so little: months of color, fragrance, pollinator support, drought tolerance, and that essential softness that makes a garden feel established and loved.

Whether you have a sprawling country border, a city courtyard, or a few pots on a balcony, there’s a catmint that fits. Start with ‘Walker’s Low’ if you have space, ‘Purrsian Blue’ if you don’t. Plant in drifts, shear in July, divide every few years. That’s the whole secret.

The English garden tradition is built on plants that earn their keep — plants that are beautiful, yes, but also tough, generous, and companionable. Catmint embodies all of this. It’s the plant that makes a border look like it’s been there forever, even in its first season. It’s the plant visitors ask about. It’s the plant you dig up a piece of for a friend moving into a new house.

So find a sunny spot, loosen the soil, and plant a catmint this spring. In a few months, you’ll understand why generations of British gardeners have made it a cornerstone of the perennial border. Your bees will thank you. Your roses will thank you. And every time you brush past that fragrant mound of blue, you’ll thank yourself.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does catmint bloom?

With deadheading, catmints bloom from late May or June through September or even October — up to 5-6 months. The first flush lasts 4-6 weeks; after shearing, a second flush continues until frost.

Is catmint deer resistant?

Yes, catmint is highly deer resistant. Its aromatic foliage contains compounds deer find unpalatable. It’s one of the most reliable perennials for deer-prone gardens, though no plant is 100% deer-proof in extreme conditions.

Can I grow catmint in pots?

Yes, compact varieties like ‘Purrsian Blue’, ‘Junior Walker’, and ‘Pink Cat’ thrive in containers. Use a gritty, free-draining compost (John Innes No. 2 with 30% grit), water when the top few centimeters are dry, and feed lightly in spring.

Does catmint attract bees?

Absolutely. Catmint is one of the best perennials for bees, attracting honeybees, bumblebees, and many solitary bee species. The flowers are rich in nectar and accessible to a wide range of pollinators throughout the long blooming season.

Should I fertilize catmint?

Generally, no. Catmints flower best in lean soil. Rich soil or high-nitrogen fertilizer causes floppy, leafy growth with fewer flowers. On very poor soil, a light application of balanced slow-release fertilizer in spring is sufficient.

How do I stop cats from destroying my catmint?

Most cats prefer catnip over ornamental catmint. To deter them: insert twiggy branches or short stakes through the clump to prevent lounging, sprinkle citrus peel or commercial cat repellent, or plant a sacrificial patch of catnip elsewhere in the garden.