Purrsian Blue Catmint Plant

The Purrsian Blue Catmint Plant is a dwarf, sterile hybrid that blooms from early summer to fall with vibrant periwinkle-blue flowers atop aromatic gray-green foliage. This low-maintenance perennial thrives in full sun, tolerates drought once established, and stays neatly mounded without flopping — making it ideal for borders, containers, and pollinator gardens.

If you’ve ever walked past a garden in midsummer and noticed a cloud of soft blue flowers buzzing with bees, chances are you were looking at catmint. But not all catmints are created equal. Enter the Purrsian Blue Catmint Plant — a game-changing variety that solves nearly every complaint gardeners have about traditional catmint. It doesn’t flop open in the center. It doesn’t self-seed everywhere. It stays tidy and compact all season. And it keeps pumping out flowers from early summer until frost.

I first discovered this plant at a local nursery three years ago, drawn in by its promise of “no flopping” and “months of bloom.” Skeptical but hopeful, I planted three along my sunny front walkway. By July, they’d formed perfect little mounds covered in periwinkle-blue spikes. The bees couldn’t get enough. The neighborhood cats? They rubbed against them occasionally but never destroyed them. And the best part — zero maintenance beyond a quick shear in early spring. If you’re looking for a perennial that delivers maximum impact for minimum effort, this might be your new best garden friend.

Key Takeaways

• Compact growth habit: Reaches just 14-18 inches tall and wide, perfect for small spaces and front-of-border planting.
• Extended bloom season: Flowers from June through September with minimal deadheading required.
• Pollinator magnet: Bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds flock to the nectar-rich blooms all season long.
• Deer and rabbit resistant: Aromatic foliage naturally deters browsing animals without chemicals.
• Sterile hybrid: Produces no viable seeds, so it won’t spread aggressively or become invasive in your garden.
• Drought tolerant: Once established, needs little supplemental water and handles heat beautifully.
• Versatile design uses: Works in rock gardens, cottage borders, container plantings, and as edging along pathways.

Quick Answers to Common Questions

How tall does Purrsian Blue Catmint Plant grow?

The Purrsian Blue Catmint Plant reaches a compact 14-18 inches tall and wide, making it ideal for front-of-border planting and containers.

Does Purrsian Blue Catmint Plant spread aggressively?

No, it’s a sterile hybrid that produces no viable seeds, so it won’t self-seed or spread beyond its clump. It only expands slowly by root growth.

When should I cut back Purrsian Blue Catmint Plant?

Cut it back to 3-4 inches in early spring when new growth emerges at the base. Optionally shear by half in midsummer after the first flush for a tidier rebloom.

Is Purrsian Blue Catmint Plant deer resistant?

Yes, the aromatic foliage naturally deters deer and rabbits, making it an excellent choice for gardens with browsing pressure.

Can Purrsian Blue Catmint Plant grow in shade?

It needs at least 6 hours of direct sun for best flowering and compact form. In partial shade it becomes leggy, floppy, and blooms poorly.

What Makes Purrsian Blue Catmint Plant Special

A Breeding Breakthrough

The Purrsian Blue Catmint Plant (Nepeta x faassenii ‘Purrsian Blue’) is the result of careful breeding by Walters Gardens, one of North America’s leading perennial propagators. It’s a sterile hybrid, meaning it produces no viable seeds. This is huge for gardeners tired of pulling catmint volunteers from cracks in the patio or between pavers. Unlike older varieties like ‘Walker’s Low’ or ‘Six Hills Giant’ that can reach 3 feet tall and wide — and flop dramatically after rain — this cultivar stays a neat 14 to 18 inches in both directions. The name “Purrsian” is a playful nod to both its cat-attracting heritage and its Persian-blue flower color.

Flower Power That Lasts

Most perennials have a 2-3 week bloom window. The Purrsian Blue Catmint Plant laughs at that limitation. In my Zone 6 garden, the first flowers appear in early June. By late June, the plants are solid masses of color. They continue blooming heavily through July and August — traditionally the “dog days” when many perennials take a break. A light shear after the first flush encourages an even stronger second wave that carries right into October. The individual flowers are small, tubular, and arranged in dense whorls along upright stems. Up close, they’re a lovely periwinkle-blue with tiny purple calyces that persist after petals drop, extending the show.

Foliage That Looks Good All Season

Let’s talk leaves. The foliage of the Purrsian Blue Catmint Plant is a soft gray-green, slightly fuzzy, and wonderfully aromatic when brushed. It forms a dense, mounded basal clump that suppresses weeds naturally. Unlike some catmints that get leggy and bare at the base by August, this variety holds its lower leaves beautifully. The scent is classic minty-catnip — released when you brush past or crush a leaf. It’s pleasant to humans but confusing to deer and rabbits, who typically leave it alone. In fall, the foliage often takes on subtle purplish tints before dying back for winter.

Ideal Growing Conditions

Sun Requirements

The Purrsian Blue Catmint Plant is a sun worshiper. It needs at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily to bloom prolifically and maintain its compact form. In partial shade (4-6 hours sun), it will survive but become looser, floppier, and produce fewer flowers. I learned this the hard way when I planted one in a spot that got morning sun but afternoon shade from a maple tree. It lived, but it leaned toward the light and bloomed at half capacity. Full, baking sun — even reflected heat from a driveway or stone wall — is where this plant shines. It’s one of the few perennials that thrives in those brutal “hellstrip” areas between sidewalk and street.

Soil Preferences

Good news: the Purrsian Blue Catmint Plant isn’t picky about soil. It tolerates clay, sand, loam, and even rocky or gravelly soils. The only non-negotiable is drainage. Wet feet — especially in winter — will rot the crown faster than anything else. If your soil is heavy clay, amend with compost and coarse sand or plant in a slightly raised mound. The ideal pH range is 6.0 to 7.5, but it handles slightly acidic or alkaline conditions without complaint. Rich, fertile soil actually produces weaker, floppier growth. Lean soil = stronger stems and more flowers. This is a plant that thrives on neglect.

Water Needs

Here’s where the Purrsian Blue Catmint Plant earns its drought-tolerant reputation. New plants need regular watering their first season to establish deep roots. Water deeply once or twice a week during dry spells. After that? They’re remarkably self-sufficient. My established plants get zero supplemental water unless we hit a 3-week dry spell in July. Even then, they barely wilt. Overwatering is far more dangerous than underwatering — it leads to root rot, fungal diseases, and weak growth. If you have an irrigation system, zone this plant with other xeric perennials like lavender, salvia, and sedum, not with thirsty hydrangeas or hostas.

Hardiness Range

The Purrsian Blue Catmint Plant is reliably hardy in USDA Zones 3-8. That’s a massive range — from the bitter winters of northern Minnesota to the humid summers of Georgia. In Zone 3, provide a light winter mulch after the ground freezes. In Zone 8, afternoon shade helps prevent heat stress. It’s not suited for Zones 9+ where winter chill hours are insufficient for proper dormancy. The plant dies back completely in winter, emerging fresh from the crown in early spring. No evergreen foliage to manage, no winter burn to worry about.

Planting and Establishment

When to Plant

Spring and early fall are the sweet spots for planting the Purrsian Blue Catmint Plant. Spring planting (after last frost) gives the whole growing season to establish before winter. Fall planting (6-8 weeks before first frost) takes advantage of cooler temperatures and autumn rains. Summer planting works if you’re diligent about watering. Avoid planting during heat waves or when the ground is frozen. Container-grown plants from nurseries can go in almost anytime the soil is workable. Bare-root plants — sometimes sold by mail-order specialists — should only be planted in early spring while dormant.

Spacing and Layout

Space Purrsian Blue Catmint Plant specimens 18-24 inches apart on center. At 18 inches, they’ll knit together into a continuous low hedge within a year. At 24 inches, each plant remains a distinct mound with visible soil between — better for air circulation in humid climates. For a naturalistic drift, plant in odd-numbered groups of 3, 5, or 7 with staggered spacing. This mimics how plants grow in nature and looks far better than straight rows. I planted five in a gentle curve along my walkway, spaced 20 inches apart. By year two, they’d merged into a soft blue river that guides visitors to the front door.

Planting Technique

Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball but no deeper. The crown — where stems meet roots — should sit at soil level, not buried. Loosen circling roots gently with your fingers. Backfill with native soil (no need for amendments in the planting hole — they encourage roots to stay put rather than explore). Water thoroughly to settle soil and eliminate air pockets. Apply 2 inches of shredded bark or leaf mulch, keeping it 2 inches away from the crown. Water every 2-3 days for the first two weeks, then gradually taper to weekly. By week 6, the plant should be established enough to handle normal rainfall.

Container Growing

The Purrsian Blue Catmint Plant excels in containers — its compact size and drought tolerance make it a perfect “thriller” for sunny pots. Choose a container at least 12 inches wide and deep with drainage holes. Use a gritty, well-draining potting mix (cactus mix works great, or amend regular potting soil with 30% perlite or coarse sand). Water when the top 2 inches of soil feel dry. Fertilize once in spring with a slow-release balanced fertilizer — that’s it. In Zones 5 and colder, move pots to an unheated garage or bury them in the ground for winter. In Zones 6+, they can often stay out with a thick mulch layer over the root zone.

Seasonal Care and Maintenance

Spring Cleanup

Early spring is the only mandatory maintenance for the Purrsian Blue Catmint Plant. Once you see new green shoots emerging at the base (usually March-April in Zone 6), cut the entire plant back to 3-4 inches above ground. Use clean, sharp shears or hedge trimmers. This removes last year’s dead stems and makes way for fresh growth. Don’t be timid — hard pruning produces bushier, more floriferous plants. If you forget and the new growth gets tangled with old stems, just shear the whole thing to 6 inches. It’ll recover fast. This is also the time to apply a thin layer of compost around the base if your soil is poor.

Deadheading and Shearing

Here’s the beauty of the Purrsian Blue Catmint Plant — deadheading is optional. The spent flower spikes turn an attractive tawny color and persist into winter, providing texture and seed heads for birds (though seeds are sterile). If you want a neater look or a stronger rebloom, shear the whole plant back by half after the first flush fades in mid-July. New growth and flowers appear within 2-3 weeks. I do this “Chelsea chop” every year around July 4th. It delays peak bloom slightly but gives me a more compact plant and heavier September show. In cooler climates with shorter seasons, skip the summer shear and enjoy the continuous bloom.

Dividing

The Purrsian Blue Catmint Plant doesn’t need frequent division — every 4-5 years is plenty. Signs it’s time: the center dies out (donut effect), flowering declines, or the plant outgrows its space. Divide in early spring just as new growth emerges. Dig up the entire clump. Use a sharp spade or old bread knife to cut into sections, each with healthy roots and 3-5 shoots. Replant immediately at the same depth. Water well. Divisions often bloom the same year. Fall division works too but gives less time to establish before winter. Share extras with gardening friends — they’ll thank you.

Fertilizing

Less is more. The Purrsian Blue Catmint Plant prefers lean soil. Excess nitrogen produces lush foliage at the expense of flowers and stem strength. If your soil is decent, zero fertilizer is needed. In very poor soil or containers, apply a single dose of slow-release 10-10-10 or 5-10-5 in early spring. Or top-dress with 1 inch of compost. Avoid high-nitrogen lawn fertilizers nearby — runoff can cause floppy growth. If leaves yellow in summer (rare), a light feed with liquid fish emulsion or seaweed extract helps. But honestly? This plant thrives on neglect. I’ve never fertilized mine, and they outperform everything else in the bed.

Design Ideas and Companion Plants

Front-of-Border Star

The Purrsian Blue Catmint Plant is tailor-made for the front of a sunny border. Its low, mounded form creates a soft edge that hides the bare legs of taller perennials behind it. Pair it with vertical accents like purple coneflower (Echinacea), black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia), or Russian sage (Perovskia) for contrast in form. The blue flowers harmonize with almost everything — pink, yellow, white, orange, purple. For a monochromatic blue garden, combine with ‘May Night’ salvia, ‘Blue Fortune’ agastache, and ‘Rozanne’ geranium. The gray-green foliage provides a cooling foil for hot-colored neighbors like ‘Moonshine’ yarrow or ‘Firewitch’ dianthus.

Rock Garden and Gravel Garden Perfection

Few plants look as natural in a rock garden as the Purrsian Blue Catmint Plant. Its Mediterranean heritage means it loves the sharp drainage and reflected heat of stones. Plant it spilling over a retaining wall, tucked between boulders, or edging a gravel path. The soft mounds soften hard edges beautifully. In a gravel garden (think Beth Chatto style), mass it with other drought-lovers: lavender, thyme, sedum, ornamental grasses like blue fescue (Festuca glauca), and dwarf conifers. The blue flowers echo the sky; the gray foliage echoes the stone. It’s a planting style that looks better with age and needs almost zero input.

Pollinator Pathway Planting

Want to support bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds? The Purrsian Blue Catmint Plant is a cornerstone species for a pollinator pathway. Its long bloom season bridges the gap between spring bulbs and fall asters. Plant it in drifts of 5+ for maximum visibility to foraging insects. Combine with early bloomers like catmint’s cousin, Nepeta ‘Walker’s Low’ (taller, earlier), and late bloomers like ‘Autumn Joy’ sedum and aromatic aster (Symphyotrichum oblongifolium). Add a shallow water source (a saucer with pebbles and water) and avoid pesticides. My catmint patch is the busiest spot in the garden from 10 AM to 4 PM all summer. Bumblebees practically vibrate on the flowers.

Container Combinations

In pots, the Purrsian Blue Catmint Plant plays well with others. For a “thriller-filler-spiller” combo, use it as the filler around a taller thriller like purple fountain grass (Pennisetum ‘Rubrum’) or a dwarf canna lily. Add a spiller like silver dichondra or creeping thyme over the pot edge. For a herb container, pair with rosemary, thyme, oregano, and basil — all share the same sun and drainage needs. The catmint’s blue flowers add ornamental value to an otherwise utilitarian herb pot. In a large trough, create a mini meadow: catmint, dwarf coneflower, little bluestem grass, and butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa). Move the pot to follow the sun if needed.

Edging and Pathway Planting

One of my favorite uses for the Purrsian Blue Catmint Plant is edging a garden path. The soft mounds spill slightly over the edge, blurring the line between bed and walkway. Brushing against them releases that wonderful minty scent — a sensory bonus for anyone passing by. Space plants 18 inches apart for a continuous low hedge. They tolerate occasional foot traffic (kids, dogs) better than most perennials. Along a stepping-stone path, plant in the gaps between stones. They’ll soften the hardscape and prevent weeds. Just avoid planting where they’ll be constantly trampled — they’re tough but not indestructible.

Common Problems and Solutions

Flopping or Open Centers

If your Purrsian Blue Catmint Plant flops or develops a bald center, the cause is usually too much shade, too much water, too much fertilizer, or overcrowding. This variety is bred to resist flopping, but it has limits. Solution: ensure full sun (6+ hours). Stop fertilizing. Water only during extended drought. Divide if the clump exceeds 2 feet wide. The early spring hard prune (to 3-4 inches) is critical — it forces dense basal growth. If it still flops in midsummer, shear it back by half in early July. It’ll regrow compact and bloom again in 3 weeks. Staking isn’t necessary and looks messy.

Root Rot and Crown Rot

The number one killer of the Purrsian Blue Catmint Plant is wet soil, especially in winter. Symptoms: wilting despite moist soil, yellowing leaves, blackened stems at soil line, plant pulls up easily with few roots. Prevention is everything. Plant in well-drained soil. Amend clay with compost and coarse sand. Plant on a slight mound in heavy soils. Avoid mulch volcanoes — keep mulch 2 inches from crown. In wet climates, consider planting in a raised bed or berm. If rot strikes, dig the plant, cut away all rotted tissue, dust with sulfur powder, and replant in a better location. Often it’s too late — prevention beats cure.

Powdery Mildew

In humid climates with poor air circulation, the Purrsian Blue Catmint Plant can develop powdery mildew — a white, dusty coating on leaves. It’s usually cosmetic, not fatal. Prevention: space plants 24 inches apart. Water at soil level, not overhead. Morning sun helps dry foliage fast. If mildew appears, remove affected leaves (don’t compost). Spray with neem oil, potassium bicarbonate, or a homemade mix of 1 tablespoon baking soda + 1 teaspoon horticultural oil per gallon water. The ‘Purrsian Blue’ cultivar has good mildew resistance, but no plant is immune in ideal fungal conditions. A mid-season shear improves air flow dramatically.

Cat Damage

Yes, cats love the Purrsian Blue Catmint Plant. But unlike catnip (Nepeta cataria), this ornamental catmint contains less nepetalactone — the compound that sends cats into euphoria. Most cats will rub, roll, and nap on it but rarely eat it to the ground. If your neighborhood cats are persistent, surround young plants with chicken wire cylinders for the first year. Once established, the woody stems and dense growth tolerate occasional feline attention. Some gardeners plant a sacrificial patch of true catnip nearby to distract cats. I’ve found a sprinkle of cayenne pepper around the base deters them for a few weeks (reapply after rain).

Spider Mites

In hot, dry, dusty conditions, spider mites can infest the Purrsian Blue Catmint Plant. Look for stippled, bronzed leaves and fine webbing on leaf undersides. They’re microscopic but the damage is visible. Prevention: hose down plants weekly during dry spells — mites hate humidity. Encourage predatory mites and ladybugs by avoiding broad-spectrum insecticides. If infestation is heavy, spray with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil, covering leaf undersides thoroughly. Repeat in 5-7 days. A strong blast of water from the hose often knocks them back enough for natural predators to take over. Healthy, unstressed plants rarely get severe infestations.

Propagation Methods

Division (Easiest, Most Reliable)

As covered in the maintenance section, division is the primary way to propagate the Purrsian Blue Catmint Plant. Since it’s a sterile hybrid, it won’t come true from seed — division gives you exact clones. Do it in early spring every 4-5 years or when you want more plants. Each division with 3-5 shoots and healthy roots becomes a full-size plant by midsummer. This is how nurseries propagate it commercially, and it’s foolproof for home gardeners. Water the parent plant well the day before. Dig, divide, replant, water. Done.

Softwood Cuttings

In late spring to early summer, take 4-6 inch cuttings from non-flowering shoots of the Purrsian Blue Catmint Plant. Strip lower leaves, dip cut end in rooting hormone (optional but helpful), and stick in a pot of moist perlite-vermiculite mix or coarse sand. Cover with a clear plastic bag (propped up with sticks) to maintain humidity. Place in bright, indirect light. Roots form in 2-3 weeks. Transplant to individual pots when roots are 1 inch long. Grow on for 4-6 weeks before planting out. This method works well if you need many plants from one mother plant — say, for a large drift or to share with a garden club.

Why Not Seed?

The Purrsian Blue Catmint Plant is sterile — it produces no viable seeds. Even if you collected the tiny nutlets, they wouldn’t germinate. This is a feature, not a bug. It means no unwanted seedlings in your garden or the neighbor’s yard. It also means any “Purrsian Blue” seeds sold online are either mislabeled or from a different catmint variety. Buy plants from reputable nurseries (local or mail-order) to ensure you get the true cultivar. Look for the Proven Winners or Walters Gardens tags — they’re the licensed propagators. A genuine plant costs $12-18 for a quart pot, $20-30 for a gallon. Worth every penny for years of performance.

Purrsian Blue vs. Other Popular Catmints

vs. ‘Walker’s Low’ (Nepeta x faassenii ‘Walker’s Low’)

‘Walker’s Low’ is the classic catmint — and a great plant. But it’s big: 24-30 inches tall and wide, with a tendency to flop open by midsummer. The Purrsian Blue Catmint Plant is half the size, stays upright without staking, and blooms longer. ‘Walker’s Low’ blooms heavily in early summer, takes a break, then reblooms modestly. ‘Purrsian Blue’ blooms continuously. ‘Walker’s Low’ self-seeds moderately. ‘Purrsian Blue’ is sterile. Choose ‘Walker’s Low’ for the middle of a large border. Choose ‘Purrsian Blue’ for the front edge, containers, or small gardens.

vs. ‘Cat’s Meow’ (Nepeta ‘Cat’s Meow’)

‘Cat’s Meow’ is another Walters Gardens introduction, similar in size to ‘Purrsian Blue’ (17-20 inches) but with a more upright, vase-shaped habit and slightly larger, deeper blue flowers. It’s also sterile and long-blooming. The difference is subtle. ‘Purrsian Blue’ is a bit more mounded and spreading; ‘Cat’s Meow’ is more vertical. Both are excellent. I grow both — ‘Cat’s Meow’ behind ‘Purrsian Blue’ for a layered blue effect. If you only have room for one, flip a coin. You can’t lose.

vs. ‘Junior Walker’ (Nepeta ‘Junior Walker’)

‘Junior Walker’ was bred as a compact version of ‘Walker’s Low’ — 15-18 inches tall. It’s a good plant but tends to get a bit woody and open at the base after a few years. The Purrsian Blue Catmint Plant maintains a denser, fuller mound long-term. ‘Junior Walker’ flowers are a softer lavender-blue; ‘Purrsian Blue’ is a richer periwinkle. Both are sterile. ‘Purrsian Blue’ has better heat tolerance in my experience. If you’ve grown ‘Junior Walker’ and found it thinning out, try ‘Purrsian Blue’ as a replacement.

vs. True Catnip (Nepeta cataria)

True catnip is a different species entirely. It’s a rangy, weedy-looking plant (2-3 feet) with white flowers and gray-fuzzy leaves. Cats go crazy for it. It self-seeds aggressively and can become a nuisance. The Purrsian Blue Catmint Plant is ornamental first, cat-attractant second. Its foliage is greener, less fuzzy, and more attractive in the garden. Its flowers are showy blue, not insignificant white. It stays put. Grow catnip in a pot for your cats. Grow ‘Purrsian Blue’ in your garden for you (and the bees).

Buying Guide: What to Look For

Healthy Plant Checklist

When shopping for the Purrsian Blue Catmint Plant at a nursery, inspect before you buy. Look for: compact, bushy growth (not leggy or stretched). Healthy gray-green leaves — no yellowing, browning, or spots. White, firm roots visible at drainage holes (gently tip the pot to check). No weeds growing in the pot. No pests on leaf undersides (check for aphids, spider mites). Plant label with cultivar name ‘Purrsian Blue’ and ideally a Proven Winners or Walters Gardens tag. Avoid plants already in full bloom in a small pot — they’re often root-bound and stressed. A plant in bud or just starting to flower is ideal.

Pot Sizes and Value

The Purrsian Blue Catmint Plant is commonly sold in quart (4.5 inch), #1 (gallon), and occasionally #2 (2-gallon) pots. Quart pots ($12-18) are the best value for mass planting — they establish fast and reach full size by year two. Gallon pots ($20-30) give instant impact for specimen planting or containers. Two-gallon pots ($35-50) are rarely worth the premium unless you need a mature look immediately. Mail-order plants often arrive as plugs or quarts — they’re younger but establish well if planted promptly. Bare-root divisions are sometimes available from specialty growers in early spring — cheapest per plant but require more care initially.

When to Buy

Spring (April-June) offers the best selection of the Purrsian Blue Catmint Plant. Nurseries get fresh stock weekly. Early spring plants may not be blooming yet — that’s fine, they’ll bloom on schedule. Summer purchases work but require diligent watering during establishment. Fall (September-October) is excellent for planting — roots grow all winter for a spring head start. Selection is more limited. Winter? Only in warm climates (Zone 7+) where nurseries operate year-round. Avoid buying in July-August heat waves unless you can plant immediately and water daily for two weeks.

Mail-Order Tips

If local nurseries don’t carry the Purrsian Blue Catmint Plant, reputable mail-order sources include Proven Winners Direct, Walters Gardens (wholesale only, but their retailer locator helps), Bluestone Perennials, White Flower Farm, and High Country Gardens. Order early spring for best selection. Plants ship as plugs or small pots, dormant or actively growing. Open the box immediately. Water if dry. Plant within 24 hours. If you must hold them, keep in bright shade, water daily, and plant within a week. Most vendors guarantee live arrival — photograph any issues immediately.

Seasonal Interest Calendar

Early Spring (March-April)

The Purrsian Blue Catmint Plant emerges as a tidy mound of fresh gray-green leaves. This is pruning time — cut back to 3-4 inches. Apply compost if desired. The plant looks neat and intentional, not messy.

Late Spring (May)

Foliage fills out rapidly. Flower buds form at stem tips. The mound becomes denser. No flowers yet, but the foliage alone is attractive — a soft gray-green cushion that contrasts beautifully with spring bulbs and emerging perennials.

Early Summer (June)

First flowers open — usually early June in Zone 6. The plant transforms into a blue cloud. Bees arrive in force. This is peak “wow” factor. The bloom continues building through the month.

Midsummer (July-August)

Heavy, continuous bloom. The Purrsian Blue Catmint Plant is a solid mass of blue. Foliage stays clean. This is when most perennials fade — but not this one. Optional: shear by half in early July for tidier rebloom.

Late Summer (September)

If sheared in July, a massive second flush peaks now. If not sheared, bloom continues steadily but with some spent spikes mixed in. Still a pollinator hotspot. Foliage may show subtle purple tints as nights cool.

Fall (October-November)

Bloom tapers off after hard frost. Spent flower stems turn tawny — attractive in winter light. Foliage dies back gradually. Leave stems standing for winter interest and beneficial insect habitat. Cut back in early spring.

Winter (December-February)

Dormant. Crown rests at soil level under snow or mulch. In snowless winters, the dried stems catch frost beautifully. No care needed. Dream of next June’s blue cloud.

Conclusion

The Purrsian Blue Catmint Plant is that rare perennial that delivers on every promise. Compact? Check. Long-blooming? Check. Low maintenance? Check. Pollinator-friendly? Check. Deer resistant? Check. Non-invasive? Check. Beautiful in multiple seasons? Check. Versatile in design? Check. After three years in my garden, it’s the plant I recommend most often to friends starting new beds or renovating tired ones. It’s the anchor of my front walkway, the star of my largest container, and the first plant I’d buy again if I moved tomorrow.

If you’ve been burned by floppy, seedy, short-blooming catmints in the past, give this one a chance. It’s a breeding triumph that solves the genus’s weaknesses while amplifying its strengths. Plant it in full sun, give it decent drainage, shear it once a year, and stand back. The bees will thank you. The neighbors will ask what it is. And you’ll have one of the most reliable, rewarding perennials in your garden — a true plant-and-forget (almost) superstar. The Purrsian Blue Catmint Plant doesn’t just survive in the garden. It thrives, shines, and makes you look like a better gardener than you are. What more could you ask?

Frequently Asked Questions

How often should I water Purrsian Blue Catmint Plant?

Water new plants deeply once or twice weekly during their first growing season. Once established, they are very drought tolerant and only need supplemental water during extended dry spells of 3+ weeks.

Does Purrsian Blue Catmint Plant attract cats like catnip?

Cats may rub and roll on it occasionally, but it contains much less nepetalactone than true catnip (Nepeta cataria). Most cats show mild interest rather than the intense reaction seen with catnip.

What is the best fertilizer for Purrsian Blue Catmint Plant?

Little to none. This plant prefers lean soil. Excess fertilizer causes floppy growth and fewer flowers. If needed, apply a light dose of slow-release balanced fertilizer in early spring or top-dress with compost.

Can I grow Purrsian Blue Catmint Plant in a container?

Yes, it excels in containers. Use a pot at least 12 inches wide with drainage holes and a gritty, well-draining potting mix. Water when the top 2 inches of soil are dry. Fertilize once in spring.

Why is my Purrsian Blue Catmint Plant flopping open in the center?

Flopping usually indicates too much shade, overwatering, excess fertilizer, or an overcrowded clump needing division. Ensure full sun, stop fertilizing, water only in drought, and divide every 4-5 years in spring.

Is Purrsian Blue Catmint Plant the same as Walker’s Low?

No. ‘Walker’s Low’ is larger (24-30 inches), flops more, self-seeds, and has a shorter bloom window. ‘Purrsian Blue’ is a compact, sterile, longer-blooming hybrid bred specifically to improve on those traits.