Catmint Plant B&q

Catmint (Nepeta) is a drought-tolerant, pollinator-friendly perennial that thrives in UK gardens. B&Q stocks popular varieties like ‘Walker’s Low’ and ‘Six Hills Giant’ from spring through autumn. This guide covers selection, planting, care, and design ideas to help you create stunning, low-maintenance borders that cats and bees both love.

Walking down the plant aisles at B&Q on a bright Saturday morning, you will likely spot tables full of catmint. Those soft grey-green leaves and spikes of lavender-blue flowers catch the eye every time. Catmint has become a staple in British gardens for good reason. It flowers for months, asks for very little, and brings bees and butterflies flocking. Whether you are a seasoned gardener or just starting out, picking up a catmint plant at B&Q is one of the smartest moves you can make for your borders.

This guide walks you through everything you need to know. We will cover the varieties you will find on the shelves, how to choose the healthiest plants, when and how to plant them, and the simple care routine that keeps them looking brilliant year after year. You will also get design ideas for using catmint in different garden styles, from cottage borders to modern gravel gardens. By the end, you will feel confident picking, planting, and growing catmint like a pro.

Key Takeaways

• Best buying time: Visit B&Q from March to June for the widest selection of healthy, established catmint plants in 2L and 3L pots.
• Top varieties: ‘Walker’s Low’ offers compact growth and long flowering; ‘Six Hills Giant’ creates dramatic height; ‘Cat’s Pajamas’ stays neat for small spaces.
• Planting essentials: Choose full sun, well-drained soil, and space plants 30-45cm apart for good air circulation and disease prevention.
• Simple maintenance: Shear back after first flush for a second bloom; divide clumps every 3-4 years in spring to maintain vigour.
• Wildlife benefits: Catmint attracts bees, butterflies, and hoverflies while deterring aphids and squash bugs from nearby vegetables.
• Design versatility: Use as edging, in gravel gardens, under roses, or in containers for months of lavender-blue colour.
• Cat appeal: Most cats adore Nepeta cataria (true catnip), but ornamental catmints like Nepeta x faassenii have milder effects on felines.

Quick Answers to Common Questions

When is the best time to buy catmint at B&Q?

March to May offers the widest selection of fresh, healthy plants. Autumn (September) has a smaller restock. Avoid mid-summer unless you can water daily.

Which catmint variety is best for a small garden or pot?

‘Cat’s Pajamas’ (or ‘Cat’s Meow’) stays compact at 30-35cm, flowers early, reblooms reliably, and keeps a neat mound shape perfect for containers and border fronts.

How do I stop my catmint flopping open in the middle?

Give it full sun, avoid fertiliser, water only in drought, and shear it back by half in July after the first flush. Divide congested clumps every 3-4 years in spring.

Will ornamental catmint drive my cat crazy like catnip?

Ornamental catmints (Nepeta x faassenii) have much lower nepetalactone than true catnip (N. cataria). Cats may sniff or rub briefly but rarely destroy established plants.

Can I grow catmint in heavy clay soil?

Yes, but you must improve drainage. Dig in plenty of horticultural grit and compost. Plant on a slight mound. Mulch with gravel, not compost. Avoid winter waterlogging.

Understanding Catmint: What Exactly Is It?

The Botany Basics

Catmint belongs to the genus Nepeta, part of the mint family Lamiaceae. There are around 250 species, but only a handful are grown as garden ornamentals. The most common is Nepeta x faassenii, a hybrid between N. racemosa and N. nepetella. This hybrid gives us the classic mound of aromatic foliage and long-lasting flower spikes that gardeners love. True catnip, Nepeta cataria, is a different species. It is the one that sends cats into a frenzy, but it is less ornamental and can be a bit weedy.

All catmints share certain traits. They have square stems, opposite leaves, and two-lipped flowers typical of the mint family. The foliage releases a pleasant, minty scent when brushed or crushed. This aroma comes from volatile oils, particularly nepetalactone, which affects cats and repels certain insect pests. The plants are herbaceous perennials, dying back to ground level in winter and regrowing from the base each spring.

Why UK Gardeners Love It

Catmint ticks almost every box for a low-maintenance garden plant. It is fully hardy across the UK, surviving temperatures well below freezing. Once established, it tolerates drought remarkably well thanks to its deep taproot. It flowers from late spring or early summer right through to autumn if you give it a mid-season trim. The flowers are a magnet for pollinators. Bees, especially bumblebees, hoverflies, and butterflies visit constantly. Yet rabbits and deer usually leave it alone because of the strong scent.

It also fits into almost any garden style. In a traditional cottage garden, it softens path edges and mingles with roses. In a Mediterranean or gravel garden, its silver foliage and blue flowers look right at home alongside lavender, salvia, and thyme. In a modern design, a drift of a single variety creates a calm, cohesive block of colour. It even works in containers on a sunny patio, provided the pot drains freely.

Catmint Varieties You Will Find at B&Q

Walker’s Low: The Reliable Favourite

If you buy one catmint at B&Q, it will probably be ‘Walker’s Low’. Despite the name, it is not especially low growing. It reaches 60cm tall and wide, forming a neat, rounded mound. It was named after a garden in Ireland, not for its height. This variety won the RHS Award of Garden Merit and the Perennial Plant Association Plant of the Year in 2007. It flowers from May to September with a brief pause in midsummer. The lavender-blue flowers are held on strong stems that do not flop. The foliage is a lovely grey-green. It is widely available in 2L and 3L pots from March onwards.

Six Hills Giant: For Height and Drama

‘Six Hills Giant’ is the big brother of the group. It grows to 90cm or even 1m tall and wide. The flower spikes are longer, the foliage larger, and the overall presence more commanding. It is perfect for the middle or back of a border where you need height without staking. The colour is a slightly deeper violet-blue. It flowers a little later than ‘Walker’s Low’, usually from June. Because of its size, it is often sold in 3L or 5L pots. Give it space to shine and good air circulation to prevent mildew in damp summers.

Cat’s Pajamas: Compact and Tidy

Newer to the market, ‘Cat’s Pajamas’ (sometimes sold as ‘Cat’s Meow’) is bred for smaller gardens and containers. It forms a tight mound only 30-35cm tall and wide. The flower spikes are held just above the foliage, creating a dense ball of colour. It starts flowering earlier, often in April, and reblooms reliably after shearing. The habit is so neat it rarely needs staking. Look for it in 2L pots. It is an excellent choice for the front of a border, a rock garden, or a large patio pot.

Other Varieties to Watch For

B&Q occasionally stocks other varieties depending on the season and supplier. ‘Blue Wonder’ is a compact form, about 40cm tall, with intense blue flowers. ‘Dropmore’ has a looser, more informal habit and pale blue flowers. ‘Purrsian Blue’ is another compact, floriferous introduction. True catnip (Nepeta cataria) sometimes appears in the herb section rather than the perennial section. It has white flowers with purple spots and very aromatic, grey-green leaves. If you want the cat entertainment factor, this is the one to buy. Just be aware it self-seeds enthusiastically.

How to Spot a Healthy Plant on the Shelf

When you are at B&Q, take a moment to inspect the plants before loading your trolley. Look for bushy, multi-stemmed growth from the base. Avoid plants with a single woody stem or large gaps in the centre. The leaves should be grey-green and clean, not yellowing or brown at the edges. Check for signs of powdery mildew, a white dusty coating on leaves, especially in late summer stock. Gently tip the pot and look at the roots. They should be white or cream, filling the pot but not tightly circling the bottom. A few roots poking out the drainage holes is fine; a solid mat means it is pot-bound and may struggle to establish. Choose plants in bud rather than full flower for a longer display at home.

When and How to Plant Your B&Q Catmint

Best Planting Times

You can plant container-grown catmint almost any time the ground is not frozen or waterlogged. However, spring and early autumn are ideal. Spring planting (March to May) gives the plant a full growing season to establish roots before winter. The soil is warming up, and spring rains help. Autumn planting (September to October) works well because the soil is still warm, encouraging root growth, but the top growth slows down, reducing water demand. Avoid planting in the heat of July and August unless you can water diligently. If you buy in summer, keep the plant in its pot in a sheltered spot and plant in early autumn.

Choosing the Right Spot

Catmint needs full sun to flower well and stay compact. Aim for at least six hours of direct sun a day. It will tolerate light shade, but plants become leggy, flop open, and flower less. The soil must drain well. Catmint hates sitting in wet soil, especially in winter. Heavy clay is a problem unless improved. If your soil is sticky clay, dig in plenty of grit, sharp sand, and well-rotted compost or manure before planting. A slightly alkaline to neutral pH is perfect, but catmint is adaptable. It thrives in poor, stony, or sandy soils where other plants struggle. This makes it ideal for those tricky dry banks or the rain shadow of a wall.

Step-by-Step Planting Guide

Water the pot thoroughly an hour before planting. Dig a hole twice as wide as the pot and the same depth. If your soil is poor, mix some compost into the excavated soil. Do not add fertiliser to the planting hole; catmint prefers lean conditions. Gently remove the plant from its pot. Tease out any circling roots with your fingers. Place the plant in the hole so the top of the root ball is level with the surrounding soil. Backfill with the soil mix, firming gently around the roots. Water in well to settle the soil. Apply a 5cm mulch of gravel, bark, or compost, keeping it clear of the stem. Space plants 30cm apart for ‘Cat’s Pajamas’, 45cm for ‘Walker’s Low’, and 60cm for ‘Six Hills Giant’.

Planting in Containers

Catmint grows well in pots. Choose a container at least 30cm wide and deep with good drainage holes. Use a peat-free multipurpose compost mixed with 25% horticultural grit or perlite. Plant at the same depth as in the nursery pot. Water well. Place in full sun. Container plants need more frequent watering and feeding than those in the ground. Water when the top 2cm of compost feels dry. Feed with a balanced liquid fertiliser once a month from April to July. Stop feeding in August to toughen growth for winter. Raise pots on feet in winter to prevent waterlogging.

Caring for Catmint Through the Seasons

Spring: The Big Wake Up

In March or April, you will see new shoots emerging from the base. This is the time to cut back all the old, dead stems to ground level. Use clean secateurs. Be careful not to damage the new green shoots. If the clump has become woody and congested in the centre, this is also the moment to divide it (see below). Apply a light mulch of compost around the plant, not on top of the crown. No fertiliser is needed. If the spring is dry, water once a week until established.

Summer: The Main Event

From late May or June, the first flush of flowers appears. Deadhead spent flower spikes regularly to encourage more blooms. Simply snip off the faded spike just above a pair of leaves. In July, after the first big flush finishes, the plant can look a bit tired. This is the perfect time for the “Chelsea Chop” or a hard shear. Cut the whole plant back by half, or down to 15-20cm. It looks drastic, but within two weeks fresh foliage appears, and a second flush of flowers follows in August and September. Water during prolonged dry spells, especially younger plants.

Autumn: Preparing for Winter

Leave the second flush of flowers and foliage standing through autumn. The seed heads look attractive frosted, and the stems protect the crown from winter wet. Stop watering and feeding. If you have heavy soil, you can mound a little extra grit or coarse sand around the base in November to improve surface drainage. This is also a good time to plant new catmint if you missed the spring window.

Winter: Dormancy

Catmint is fully hardy and needs no winter protection in the ground. In pots, move them to a sheltered spot against a house wall or into an unheated greenhouse. Ensure pots do not sit in saucers of water. The top growth will die back to brown stems. Leave them until spring. They provide shelter for beneficial insects and mark the plant’s location so you do not accidentally dig it up.

The Chelsea Chop and Mid-Season Shearing

The “Chelsea Chop” is traditionally done around the RHS Chelsea Flower Show in late May. You cut back the whole plant by a third to a half before it flowers. This delays flowering by a few weeks but produces sturdier, more compact plants that do not need staking. It also increases the number of flower spikes. If you miss that window, the mid-summer shear after the first flush (described above) achieves a similar rejuvenation. Both techniques prevent the centre of the plant from opening up and flopping, a common issue with older clumps of ‘Six Hills Giant’.

Dividing Congested Clumps

Every three to four years, catmint clumps become woody in the centre, flower less, and may die out in the middle. Spring is the time to divide. Dig up the whole clump as growth starts. Shake off loose soil. Use a sharp spade or old bread knife to cut the clump into sections, each with healthy roots and several shoots. Discard the woody centre. Replant the vigorous outer sections immediately at the same depth. Water well. You will get several free plants and renewed vigour. This is also how you propagate your favourite variety true to type.

Designing with Catmint: Garden Ideas and Companions

The Classic Rose Companion

Catmint and roses are a match made in garden heaven. The soft grey-green foliage and blue flowers hide the bare, thorny legs of rose bushes. The colours complement every rose shade, from pure white to deep crimson. The catmint’s scent may help deter aphids and rose pests. Plant a row of ‘Walker’s Low’ along the front of a rose border, spacing 45cm apart. Shear the catmint after its first flush to keep it neat while roses peak. Good rose partners include ‘Gertrude Jekyll’, ‘Munstead Wood’, and ‘Olivia Rose Austin’.

Gravel and Mediterranean Gardens

In a sunny, free-draining gravel garden, catmint feels completely at home. Its natural habitat is dry, stony hillsides. Plant it in drifts of odd numbers (3, 5, 7) among lavender, Salvia nemorosa, Perovskia (Russian sage), Stachys byzantina (lamb’s ears), and ornamental grasses like Stipa tenuissima. The limited colour palette of silvers, blues, and purples creates a sophisticated, cohesive look. Mulch with 5cm of gravel or shingle to suppress weeds and reflect heat. This style needs almost no watering once established.

Cottage Garden Borders

For a relaxed, romantic cottage garden, let catmint spill over path edges and mingle with self-seeders. Pair it with hardy geraniums (‘Rozanne’, ‘Johnson’s Blue’), Alchemilla mollis (lady’s mantle), Geum ‘Totally Tangerine’, foxgloves, and Campanula. The catmint’s long season bridges the gap between spring bulbs and summer perennials. Allow some seedlings of foxglove and verbascum to grow through the catmint mounds for vertical accents. The informal habit of ‘Six Hills Giant’ suits this style better than the tighter ‘Cat’s Pajamas’.

Edging Paths and Patios

Catmint makes a fantastic soft edge for a hard landscape. Plant ‘Walker’s Low’ or ‘Cat’s Pajamas’ along a sunny path or patio edge. The foliage softens the line of paving, and brushing past releases the scent. It tolerates the reflected heat and slight compaction near edges better than many plants. Keep it sheared to 20cm high for a neat, low hedge effect. It also works well at the front of a border backed by a low wall or fence, where the flowers can be appreciated at eye level.

Wildlife and Pollinator Borders

If your goal is a buzzing, wildlife-rich garden, catmint is essential. Plant it in blocks of at least 1m square to create a visible “landing pad” for bees. Combine with other long-flowering, nectar-rich perennials: Echinacea purpurea, Echinops ritro (globe thistle), Verbena bonariensis, Sedum ‘Herbstfreude’, and Origanum ‘Rosenkuppel’. Include early spring bulbs (crocus, muscari) and late autumn flowers (ivy, Symphyotrichum) to extend the season. Avoid double-flowered cultivars, which often lack nectar. Single-flowered catmint varieties are perfect.

Container Combinations

In a large pot (40cm+ diameter), catmint can be the “thriller” or “filler” in a thriller-filler-spiller design. For a sun-baked patio, try ‘Cat’s Pajamas’ as the filler, with a tall Perovskia ‘Blue Spire’ as thriller, and trailing Calibrachoa or Bacopa as spiller. Or pair ‘Walker’s Low’ with purple Heuchera and silver Dichondra ‘Silver Falls’. Use a gritty compost mix. Water and feed more often than in-ground plants. In winter, move the pot to a sheltered corner and wrap the pot (not the plant) in bubble wrap if a hard freeze is forecast.

Troubleshooting Common Catmint Problems

Flopping and Open Centres

This is the number one complaint. The plant flowers beautifully, then the stems flop outward, leaving a bare centre. Causes: too much shade, too rich soil, too much water, or lack of pruning. Fix: ensure full sun. Do not feed. Water only in drought. Do the Chelsea Chop or mid-summer shear. For old, woody clumps, divide in spring. Stake early with twiggy pea sticks or metal supports if you must, but pruning is better.

Powdery Mildew

A white, powdery coating on leaves, usually in late summer. It thrives in humid, still air with dry roots. ‘Six Hills Giant’ is more prone than compact varieties. Fix: improve air circulation by spacing correctly. Water at the base, not overhead. Mulch to keep roots moist. Remove badly affected leaves. A spray of 1 part milk to 9 parts water weekly can slow spread. In severe cases, cut the plant back hard; it will regrow clean.

Root Rot and Winter Wet

Plants fail to emerge in spring or collapse suddenly. The roots are black and mushy. Cause: heavy, poorly drained soil, especially in winter. Fix: prevention is key. Plant on a slight mound in clay soil. Add grit to planting hole. Mulch with gravel, not moisture-retentive compost. In pots, ensure drainage holes are clear and use pot feet. If a plant rots, discard it and start fresh in a better spot.

Pests: Aphids, Slugs, and Cats

Catmint is remarkably pest-free. Aphids occasionally cluster on soft spring shoots. Blast with a hose jet or wipe off. Ladybirds usually arrive quickly. Slugs and snails rarely touch established plants due to the scent, but they may nibble tender new shoots in spring. Use wool pellets or copper tape if needed. Cats are the main “pest”. They may roll on young plants, flattening them. Protect new plants with a cage of chicken wire or twiggy sticks until established. Once woody, cats lose interest. Note: true catnip (N. cataria) attracts cats much more strongly than ornamental catmints.

Poor Flowering

Lots of leaves, few flowers. Causes: too much shade, too much nitrogen fertiliser, or the plant needs dividing. Fix: move to full sun if possible. Stop feeding. Divide in spring if the clump is old and woody. Ensure you are shearing after the first flush to trigger the second.

Buying Catmint at B&Q: Practical Tips

When to Shop for the Best Selection

B&Q restocks perennials weekly in spring. The best selection arrives in March and April. By June, popular varieties like ‘Walker’s Low’ may sell out or look tired. Autumn brings a smaller restock in September. Visit on a weekday morning if possible. The plants have been watered overnight and not handled by crowds. Check the “Reduced” section. You can often find perfectly healthy catmint marked down because a few flowers have faded. A quick shear at home restores it.

Pot Sizes and Value

B&Q typically sells catmint in 2L, 3L, and occasionally 5L pots. A 2L pot (about 17cm diameter) costs £6-£9 and establishes quickly. A 3L pot (19-20cm) costs £10-£14 and gives instant impact. A 5L pot (23cm+) costs £18-£25 and is only worth it for ‘Six Hills Giant’ where you need immediate size. Two 2L plants spaced 45cm apart will knit together in one season and cost less than one 5L. Check the label for the variety name. Sometimes generic “Catmint” labels hide inferior seed-grown plants. Named cultivars are cutting-grown and uniform.

Reading the Plant Label

The label tells you the variety, height, spread, flowering time, hardiness, and sun needs. Look for “H5” or “H6” hardiness rating (hardy to -15°C or -20°C). Check the “Perfect for Pollinators” logo. The label often has a QR code linking to care advice on the B&Q website. Keep the label or take a photo. It helps you remember the variety name for future reference or reordering.

Online vs In-Store

B&Q’s website shows stock levels at your local store. You can “Click and Collect” to reserve plants. This guarantees you get the variety you want. However, you cannot inspect the individual plant. In-store lets you pick the bushiest, healthiest specimen. For catmint, where shape matters, in-store is better. If ordering online, choose “Standard Delivery” for plants; they are shipped in specialised packaging. Avoid “Named Day” delivery in heatwaves.

B&Q Own Brand vs Supplier Brands

B&Q sells plants from various nurseries (e.g., Hillier, Farplants, Greenyard) and their own “B&Q Garden” label. Quality is generally consistent across major suppliers due to B&Q’s standards. The B&Q own-label plants are often excellent value. They are grown to the same specs. The key is the individual plant’s condition on the day, not the brand. Compare a few pots side by side.

Propagating More Catmint for Free

Division: The Easiest Method

As described in the care section, spring division is the fastest way to get mature, flowering plants identical to the parent. Do it every 3-4 years or when the centre gets woody. You get 3-5 new plants from one clump. Replant immediately. They often flower the same year.

Softwood Cuttings

In late spring or early summer (May-June), take 8-10cm cuttings from non-flowering shoots. Cut just below a leaf node. Remove lower leaves. Dip the base in rooting powder (optional). Insert 3-4 cuttings around the edge of a 9cm pot filled with 50:50 peat-free compost and perlite. Water, cover with a clear plastic bag propped up with sticks, and place in bright, indirect light. Roots form in 3-4 weeks. Pot on individually. Overwinter in a cold frame. Plant out next spring.

Basal Cuttings

In spring, when new shoots are 5-10cm long, cut them off at ground level with a sharp knife, taking a sliver of the crown tissue. Treat like softwood cuttings. This method is especially good for rejuvenating old plants while propagating them.

Seed: Not Recommended for Cultivars

Named catmint cultivars do not come true from seed. Seedlings will vary in height, flower colour, and habit. Species catmint (N. cataria, N. racemosa) grows true from seed. If you want more ‘Walker’s Low’, divide or take cuttings. Seed is fun for experimenting but not for replicating a favourite.

Catmint and Cats: The Real Story

Why Cats Love It

The compound nepetalactone in catmint leaves mimics a feline pheromone. When cats smell it, they may roll, rub, drool, purr, or become hyperactive. The effect lasts 10-15 minutes, then they become immune for an hour or two. Not all cats respond. Sensitivity is genetic; about 30-50% of cats lack the gene. Kittens under 3 months and senior cats often show no interest.

Ornamental Catmint vs True Catnip

Nepeta cataria (catnip) has the highest nepetalactone content. Cats go wild for it. Ornamental hybrids like N. x faassenii (‘Walker’s Low’, ‘Six Hills Giant’) have much lower levels. Cats may sniff and rub them briefly, but they rarely destroy the plant. ‘Cat’s Pajamas’ and other newer breeds are selected for low nepetalactone. If you want to grow catmint for your cat, plant a patch of true catnip in a corner away from your ornamental catmint.

Protecting Young Plants

Newly planted catmint is vulnerable. Cats can flatten a 2L plant in one rolling session. Make a simple cage: cut the bottom off a 2L plastic bottle, slit it up one side, and wrap it around the plant, pushing the base into the soil. Or use a circle of chicken wire 30cm high. Remove after a month when stems are woody. Established plants recover quickly from occasional feline attention.

Using Catmint as a Cat Deterrent Elsewhere

Ironically, dried catmint can deter cats from using borders as litter trays. The strong scent masks other smells. Scatter dried stems around vulnerable seedlings. Some gardeners swear by a spray made from boiled catmint leaves. It is harmless to cats but makes the area less appealing for toileting.

Catmint Through the Year: A Month-by-Month Guide

January – February

Plant dormant. Brown stems stand above ground. Do nothing. Order new varieties from B&Q website for spring delivery if desired.

March

New shoots appear at base. Cut old stems to ground. Divide congested clumps. Plant new purchases. Mulch with compost. Water if dry.

April

Rapid leaf growth. Watch for slugs on new shoots. Take basal cuttings for propagation. Plant container-grown catmint. Visit B&Q for best selection.

May

Flower buds form. Chelsea Chop option: cut back by half for sturdier, later flowers. Stake ‘Six Hills Giant’ if not chopped. Water in dry spells.

June

First main flush of flowers. Deadhead regularly. Take softwood cuttings. Enjoy the bees. Water deeply once a week if no rain.

July

First flush fades. Hard shear: cut whole plant to 15-20cm. Water and mulch. Fresh foliage appears in 2 weeks. Check for mildew.

August

Second flush begins. Deadhead to prolong. Water in heat. Good time to plant autumn purchases for next year.

September

Second flush peaks. Stop deadheading; let seed heads form. Plant new catmint. Divide if missed spring. Reduce watering.

October

Flowers finish. Foliage turns yellow then brown. Leave stems standing. Apply grit mulch on heavy soil. Last chance to plant.

November – December

Fully dormant. Stems provide winter structure and insect habitat. Check pots not waterlogged. Move pots to shelter. Plan next year’s combinations.

Conclusion

Catmint is one of those rare plants that gives so much and asks for so little. A trip to B&Q for a couple of pots of ‘Walker’s Low’ or ‘Cat’s Pajamas’ is an investment that pays dividends for years. You get months of colour, a constant hum of bees, a plant that survives drought and neglect, and a versatile design tool that fits almost any garden style. The care routine is simple: sun, drainage, a shear in July, a divide every few years. That is it.

Whether you are edging a path, underplanting roses, filling a gravel garden, or just want a reliable pot for a sunny patio, catmint delivers. Next time you are at B&Q, head to the perennial section. Pick up a healthy pot, check the roots, read the label. Plant it in a sunny spot with gritty soil. Shear it in midsummer. Divide it in a few years and share pieces with friends. That is the catmint cycle. Simple, beautiful, and endlessly rewarding. Your garden, and the bees, will thank you.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does catmint come back every year?

Yes, catmint is a hardy herbaceous perennial. It dies back to ground level in winter and regrows from the base each spring. It lives for many years with minimal care.

How tall does catmint grow?

Height varies by variety. ‘Cat’s Pajamas’ reaches 30-35cm. ‘Walker’s Low’ grows to 60cm. ‘Six Hills Giant’ can reach 90cm to 1m. All spread roughly as wide as they are tall.

Should I deadhead catmint?

Deadheading spent flower spikes encourages more blooms. For a major second flush, shear the whole plant back by half in mid-July after the first flowering finishes.

Is catmint invasive?

Ornamental catmint hybrids (Nepeta x faassenii) are clump-forming and not invasive. They do not run at the roots. True catnip (N. cataria) can self-seed readily and may spread if not deadheaded.

Can I grow catmint in shade?

Catmint needs full sun (6+ hours) for best flowering and compact growth. In shade, it becomes leggy, flops open, flowers poorly, and is more prone to mildew.

Why is my catmint not flowering?

Common causes: too much shade, over-feeding with nitrogen-rich fertiliser, the plant is old and woody (needs dividing), or it was not sheared after the first flush to trigger the second.